Instructions and free patterns

Transcription

1 Instructions and free patterns

2 Sewing instructions for Edgy Edgy project Skirt You'll need 1m (1 1/8 yd) black taffeta, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide 0.5m (20") cream-colored fabric, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide 0.5m (20") tulle Invisible zipper in black, 22cm (9") long 20 small hooks 0.7m (28") satin ribbon, 3mm (1/8") wide 3.5m (4 yd) satin ribbon, 6mm (1/4") wide 16 eyelets, 5mm (1/4") diameter Invisible zipper foot Thread to match the color of the fabric Fabric recommendation Fairly firm, crisp skirt fabric such as taffeta. Good to know The tulle, which is worked with the cream-colored material, is meant to soften the contrast between the light and dark fabrics. If using another color combination you may wish to leave it out. Cutting out Black fabric: 1x center-front to fabric fold with 4cm (1 ½") hem allowance 2x side-front with 1.5cm (5/8") hem allowance 1x back to fabric fold with 1.5cm (5/8") hem allowance 1x waistband to fabric fold 1x facing for back lace embellishment 2x side hem facing Cream-colored fabric: 2x front inserts 1x back insert to fabric fold 1x back hem facing How to proceed: 1. Stitch the two front dividing seams down to the marking. Neaten the seam allowances and press them apart (to the wrong side at the parts of the seam remaining open). 2. Fold the hem edge of the cream-colored front inserts under twice, then press and topstitch. Pin both inserts under the skirt front and stitch them on 5mm (1/4") from the edge.

3 3. Stitch the two back darts and press them toward the center-back. 4. With right sides together, stitch the facing for the lace embellishment to the skirt back. 5. Close the right side seam. 6. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press the fold. Reopen the waistband and pin one waistband edge right sides together to the top edge of the skirt. Stitch the waistband to the skirt and press the seam allowances toward the waistband. 7. Insert the invisible zipper into the left side seam (zipper-top flush with the folded edge of the waistband), then close the side seam below the zipper. Detailed instructions on inserting an invisible zipper are included in the instructions that come with the presser foot. 8. Fold the waistband into its pre-pressed half again. Neaten the inside edge, then stitch in the ditch from the right side. 9. With right sides together, stitch the side hem facings to the hem edge (simultaneously sewing the facing over the facing for the lace embellishment). Trim the seam allowances and the corner, then fold the facings to the wrong side of the skirt. Press the edges. Secure the facings with the blindstitch or by hand. Attach 8 eyelets on each side. 10. Place the back hem facing on the cream-colored insert right sides together and sew. Fold the facing inwards and neaten the still-open edge of the insert.

4 11. Place the insert under the back of the skirt, pin, then topstitch 2.5cm (1") from the edge. 12. Thread the wider satin ribbon through the eyelets crosswise, starting at the bottom. Secure the ends of the satin ribbon on the wrong side with a few hand-stitches. 13. Hand-sew-on five small hooks on each side of the front inserts. Thread the narrow satin ribbon through crosswise. Here too, secure the ends of the ribbon by hand on the wrong side. Bag You'll need - 0.2m (8") black fabric - 0.2m (8") lining - 2m (2 ¼ yd) black satin ribbon - Cream-colored fabric remnant - Mia bag handle (Prym) - Pia bag closure (Prym) - 0.5m (20") lace trim - 18 eyelets - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric, and Extra Strong sewing thread by Mettler Fabric recommendation Fairly firm, crisp fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, etc. How to proceed 1. Cut out the pieces as per the pattern (1cm (3/8") seam allowances are already included). 2. Sew the cream-colored insert between the two front sections. 3. Sew the lace trim onto the seam and attach the eyelets on both sides. Thread the satin ribbon crosswise through the eyelets. The top and bottom ends will also be sewn into the seam later on. 4. Close the base seam in the outer fabric. With right sides together, pin and straight-stitch the side sections to the bag 1cm (3/8") from the edge. 5. Sew the lining in exactly the same way, but leaving an opening in the base seam for turning. 6. Stitch bag and lining together at the top edge with right sides facing. 7. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining, then stitch the opening closed. Edgestitch the top edge of the bag. 8. Slip the finished bag into the closure. Hand-stitch the bag with the Extra Strong thread to the closure through the top perforation in the closure. 9. Attach the handle. Corset belt Sizes 38 European (8 US, 10 UK) You'll need 30cm (12") fabric (by at least 90cm (1yd) fabric width) 30cm (12") lining 30cm (12") Permasteif or Coutil Cream-colored fabric remnant, and black tulle for center-front section 2m (2 ¼ yd) black satin ribbon, 10mm (3/8") wide

5 Two 90cm (1-yd) cream-colored satin ribbons, 1x 6mm (1/4") wide, 1x 10mm (3/8") wide 16 hooks 20cm (8") hook tape 50cm (20") grosgrain ribbon, 15mm (3/5") wide 45cm (18") decorative lace trim with flowers 2m (2 ¼ yd) plastic stiffening tape Thread to match the color of the fabric Fabric recommendation Satin fabric, or fabric with a slight sheen. Good to know The Permasteif or Coutil provides the basic structure, helping to stiffen the belt, while the boning helps hold it in shape. The stiff fabric is included between the outer shell and lining. The Permasteif or Coutil can be replaced by a different firm fabric. Cutting out Cut out all pattern pieces outer fabric and lining from Permasteif or Coutil, adding 1cm (3/8") seam allowances. Important: Copy all letters on the sides and mark the top edge of the fabric pieces. This will help you to assemble the sections correctly. How to proceed 1. Stitch the Coutil, lining and outer-fabric sections together in each case, leaving just the center-back open. Press the seam allowances together toward the center. That's the three layers of the belt ready - Coutil, lining, and outer shell. Inserting the boning 2. Cut some stiffening tape for each seam (approx. 2-3mm (1/8") shorter than the length of the seam to prevent it protruding). 3. Slip the tape under the seam allowances of the Coutil layer and edge-stitch to secure. Working the outer fabric 4. Sew the satin ribbons and the decorative tape onto the dividing seams of the outer fabric.

6 5. Use grosgrain ribbon to cover the center-front seams. The grosgrain ribbon is sturdier than the satin ribbon, providing a more suitable base for sewing on the hooks. 6. Stitch the hook tape to the center-back of the outer fabric. To do this, cut the hook tape to the required length, neatening the cut edge with a zigzag stitch. Insert the tape with the hook placket under the outer fabric (invisible on the right side) and with the eyelet placket protruding. Assembling the parts/completing the belt 7. Place lining on outer shell with right sides together and stitch top edge. Turn lining and outer shell right sides out. 8. Slip the Coutil section between the lining and the outer shell. 9. Turn the outer-shell hem over onto the Coutil and secure by hand. 10. Hand-sew the lining to the hook tape, turning it under at hem. 11. Sew the hooks onto the grosgrain ribbon. Thread the satin ribbon crosswise through the eyelets from top to bottom. Lampshade You'll need 0.35m (14") black taffeta, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide 0.35m (14") cream-colored fabric, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide 0.30m (12") black tulle 2m (2 ¼ yd) leather trim or satin ribbon, approx. 3mm (1/8") wide 0.70m (28") velvet ribbon, 2.5cm (1") wide, with eyelets 3-5mm (1/8-1/6") in diameter 0.70m (28") frilled trim 2 rings for the lampshade, 30cm (12") diameter Threads to match the color of the fabric Fabric recommendation Fairly firm, crisp fabric such as taffeta Good to know The lampshade can be sewn in different sizes. Simply measure the circumference of the rings and adjust the total width of the fabric panels to match this circumference. We recommend adding a hem allowance of 2cm (4/5") at the top and bottom edge for inserting the rings. Cutting out 1x lampshade back in black fabric, 62cm x 30cm (24 1/2" by 12") 1x lampshade front in cream-colored fabric, 34cm x 30cm (13 ½" by 12") 2x tulle strip in black, 12cm x 30cm (4 ¾" by 12") 2x frilled trim in black, 35cm (14") each

7 How to proceed 1. Sew the tulle strips to each side of the cream-colored fabric. Now sew the frilled trim and the eyelet tape onto both inside edges of the tulle. 2. With right sides facing, stitch the black fabric to the tulle sections on both sides, closing the lampshade into a ring. Topstitch the seams. 3. Insert the rings on both hems. Fold hem allowances under twice and hem by hand. 4. Thread the leather trim or satin ribbon through the eyelets and knot at the bottom.

8 Tips on Working with Fabrics There are several important basic rules for cutting out and sewing fabrics. Here are a few tips regarding our projects: Cutting out Selvedges The approx. 1-cm (1/2 )-wide strips on both sides of the fabric are the selvedges. Because their texture is generally different from that of the rest of the fabric, you must never include the selvedge in your calculations. Nor is the selvedge suitable as a fabric seam allowance. Fabric fold The folded edge created when you lay both sides of the fabric together is the fabric fold. When cutting out a pattern piece labelled with a fabric fold, lay it exactly on such a folded edge. Fabric grain The fabric grain is crucial for the correct drape of a garment. The grain marked on the pattern pieces corresponds to the straight grain or warp of the fabric, and must run parallel to the selvedges. With patterned fabrics, always pay attention to the direction of the grain and cut out fabrics in the same direction. Seam allowances Cutting out seam allowances of equal width makes sewing easier later on. Use a measuring tape and taylor s chalk to draw the seam allowances onto the fabric all around the paper pattern pieces. As a rule, you ll need 4cm (1 1/2 ) seam allowances for hems and 1.5cm (5/8 ) on all other edges and seams. (Where measurements differ, we ve mentioned this in the instructions.) Sewing Sewing edges and seams When sewing edges and seams, always place your fabric right sides together and sew together 1.5cm (5/8 ) in from the edge (same width as the seam allowance). The seam allowances are then pressed apart, trimmed if necessary, and neatened with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Sewing hems When hemming, turn edges under twice from the right side to the wrong side of the fabric, iron along the top edge, and sew. For a 4cm (1 1/2 ) seam allowance the hem is first turned under 1cm (1/2 ), then again another 3cm (1 1/4 ). Machine stitch settings for straight stitch Use the factory settings for sewing edges, seams and hems. For topstitching, you can set stitch length to mm. Using interfacing Use interfacing (or stabilizers) to reinforce fabric on facings, collars, etc. The best interfacing to use depends on the fabric you ve chosen. You ll find commercially available interfacing in fabric stores. A store assistant will be able to advise you as to which interfacing is suitable for your fabric, and on how to iron it on.

9 Bustiergürtel / Corset Belt / Ceinture de bustier B C C D A A B Bustiergürtel / Corset Belt / Ceinture de bustier Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch / Centre front on fold/ Pli du milieu endroit Bustiergürtel / Corset Belt / Ceinture de bustier

10 D E E Bustiergürtel / Corset Belt / Ceinture de bustier Bustiergürtel / Corset Belt / Ceinture de bustier Rückwärtige Mitte / Centre back / Milieu envers 5 x 5 cm

11 Tasche / Bag / Sac Taschenteil / Bag / Elément du sac 2x Oberstoff / Fabric / Tissu 2x Futterstoff / Lining / Doublure 1 =25cm

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13 1 2 1cm Inch Tasche / Bag / Sac Seitenteil / Side section / Elément latéral 2x Oberstoff / Fabric / Tissu 2x Futterstoff / Lining / Doublure 3

14 Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine 31, ,6 36,2 37,8 39,4 40,9 Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille 25,2 26, ,5 31,1 32,7 34,3 Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche 35,4 36,6 37, ,2 41,3 42,5 Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ 16, ,3 17, ,5 18,9 Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ ,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 Legende/Legend/ Légend Grösse/ 34 Size/ 36 Taille Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre front straight grain on fold/ Droit fil milieu endroit pli cm Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4 Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4 10 x 10 cm Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Inch Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli Seitlicher Saumbesatz / Side hem facing / Garniture latérale d ourlet Rückenteil / Back / Dos Besatz für rückwärtige Schnürdekoration / Facing for back lace embellishment/ Garniture pour la décoration du dos Bund / Waistband / Ceinture Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli Mittleres Vorderteil / Center Front / Devant milieu Rückwärtiger Saumbesatz / Back hem facing / Garniture d ourlet dos Seitliches Vorderteil / Side Front / Devant latéral Untertritt / Underlap / Sous-patte Einsatz hinten / Back insert dos / Garniture dos Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf / Centre back on fold straight grain / Droit fil milieu envers pli Rock/Skirt/Jupe Einsatz vorne / Front inserts / Garniture avant Ausdrucken der Seiten: Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird. Es muss: Seitenanpassung - Keine eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%. Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen Printing out the pages: Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. Page Adjustment None must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%. To check the printout measure the test square. Impression des pages Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale (100%) sera correctement imprimée. Imprimer et vérifier l envergure du carré.

15 1 10 x 10 cm Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch: Grösse/ Size/ Taille Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine 31, ,6 36,2 37,8 39,4 40,9 Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille 25,2 26, ,5 31,1 32,7 34,3 Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche 35,4 36,6 37, ,2 41,3 42,5 Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/ 16, ,3 17, ,5 18,9 Longueur taille devant Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/ ,5 16,5 16,5 16,5 Legende/Legend/ Légend Grösse/ 34 Size/ 36 Taille R B d la p

16 Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli 2 1cm Inch Rock / Skirt / Rückenteil / Ba 19

17 3 Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre back on fold straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers pli / Jupe ack / Dos 3

18 4 Seitlicher Saumbesatz / Side hem facing / Garniture latérale d ourlet Besatz für rückwärtige Schnürdekoration / Facing for back ace embellishment/ Garniture pour la décoration du dos 4

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20 6 6 Bund / Waistband / Ceinture

21 entre front straight grain on fold/ Droit fil milieu endroit pli 7 Mittleres Vorderteil / Center Front / Devant milieu 7

22 8 Rock / Skirt Rückwärtiger Back hem fac d ourlet dos Seitliches Vorderteil / Side Front / Devant latéral 8

23 Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli 9 Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli t / Jupe r Saumbesatz / cing / Garniture 9 Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf / Ce

24 Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Ce 10 10

25 11 Rock/Skirt/Jupe Einsatz vorne / Front inserts / Garniture avant 11

26 12 Untertritt / Underlap / Sous-patte Einsatz hinten / Back insert dos / Garniture dos entre back on fold straight grain / Droit fil milieu envers pli 12