Kachina Bag Diana Troldahl, Otterwise Designs

Transcription

1 Kachina Bag Diana Troldahl, This intermediate knitting pattern results in a sturdy purse that is a perfect size for carrying lunch and a paperback, but is not so large you can't find your cellphone. It looks great with jeans or office casual wear, and the lovely felted texture makes it a pleasure to use. Warm glow provided by your gift toward building a better world. Finished size 9 inches high, 9 inches wide and 5 inches deep from front to back. Pattern stitches provided in both chart and written form. Knitted in one piece, no sewing required, except for the option of attaching a purchased handle. Instructions also given for knitting your own strap to be felted, and for adding optional button loops. Skills required: -Stranded knitting -Working in the round -Pick up and knit stitches -Felting/fulling -Garter Stitch -Stockinette Yarn: For the bag: 1 skein each of Wool of the Andes in colors A, B and D, 2 skeins of color C. Sample used A:Caution; B: Sapphire Heather, C: Tidepool Heather and D: Coal. NOTE: An additional skein of D is needed if you will be knitting rather than purchasing a strap. Needles: U.S (6.5 mm) 16: circular needles, U.S double pointed needles for optional button loops. Gauge (before felting) 13 stitches X 19 rows = 4 inches. Gauge not crucial. Notions: 1 stitch marker, magnetic closure with decorative button or brooch, OR, two buttons or toggles about 1.5 inches across. Purchased handle, if desired by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 1-

2 Abbreviations * * - repeat section within asterisks DPN- Double Pointed Needle k knit k2tog- knit 2 sts together lh - left hand m1- lift the bar between stitches, place on the left hand needle, then knit through back loop. p - Purl rh - right hand rnd, rnds round, rounds st, sts stitch, stitches wyif- with yarn in front wyib - with yarn in back NOTE: Charts are found in appendix beginning on page 8, together with written instructions for rounds/rows covered by the charts Directions: With A: Cast on 40 stitches. Work garter stitch for 41 rows, slipping the first stitch of each row (purlwise, wyif). Transition Rounds: Continuing to work with yarn A, turn work clockwise to pick up stitches along the short edge to the left of your needle. Pick up and knit 20 stitches. Then pick up and knit 40 stitches from the cast on edge. You may have to fiddle to get the last stitch on the cast on edge, but that s ok. Continue to pick up and knit 20 stitches from the second short side. 120 stitches total. From this point forward (until you do the flap and strap) you will be knitting in the round. Mark this corner as beginning of round. Transition Rounds 1 and 2: purl Transition Round 3: knit Body of Bag Rnds 1 and 2: With B, knit Rnd 3: with C, knit Rnd 4: With B, knit Rnds 5 and 6: with C, knit Rnd 7: with A, knit Rnds 8 and 9: with C, knit Rnd 10: With B, knit Rnd 11: with C, knit Rnds 12 and 13: with B, knit Rnds 14 through 20: Using color A as the light squares and Color D as the dark squares, work Chart 1 (see appendix on page 7 for graph and written instructions for these rows.) 2010 by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 2-

3 Rnds 21 and 22: With B, knit. Rnds 23 through 42: Using Color C as light squares and D as dark squares, work Chart 2 (page 8) Rnd 43: With B, knit Rnd 44: Using color B *k8, k2tog* around (108 stitches) Rnd 45: With C, knit Rnd 46: with C *k7, k2tog* around (96 stitches) Rnd 47: With B, knit Rnd 48: With C, knit Rnds 49 and 50: Knit with B Rnds 51 and 52: Knit With C Rnd 53: Knit with B Rnd 54: Knit with C Repeat rounds 49 through 54 two more times. Rnd 67 : With A, knit. IF USING A PURCHASED HANDLE: Rnd 68: still with A, Knit 84 stitches, bind off last 12 stitches. DO NOT CUT YARN. Remove marker. Rnd 69: Bind off sts until 36 stitches remain (1 stitch on the rh needle, 35 stitches on the lh needle). Place the st on the rh needle onto the lh needle. Break Yarn Go to FLAP section IF KNITTING YOUR OWN STRAP: Knit Rnd 68, then place the last 12 stitches of the round on a stitch holder or waste yarn (for one side of the knitted strap). Binding off Body Of Bag Bind off 36 stitches. -You should now have 48 stitches remaining on the needles, including the one on the rh needle. -Place the stitch on the rh needle PLUS next 11 stitches on stitch holder or waste yarn (for the other side of strap). Break yarn. -The 36 stitches remaining are for the flap by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 3-

4 FLAP Turn the bag so that the public side of the back of the bag is facing you, stitch-filled needle pointing from left to right. The flap will be knit back and forth, in stockinette. -Flap Transition rows: Row 1: With B, knit 1, m1, knit 17, m1, k17, m1, knit 1 (39 stitches). Row 2: With B, purl -Stripe Pattern for Flap Row 1: With C knit Row 2: With C, purl Row 3: With B, knit Row 4: with B, purl Rows 5 through 20: Work 4 more sets of Stripe Pattern for Flap in stockinette. cut B and C. Rows 21 through 27: Work from Chart 1. Dark squares in color D, light squares in color A. NOTE: When following the chart while knitting flat, rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 should be knit from right to left, rows 2, 4 and 6 will be purled from left to right. IMPORTANT You will be adding three 'edge' stitches to each row of the chart, so: -On rows 21, 23, 25 and 27: work 3 stitches in D, then work "Chart 1" stitches -On Rows 22, 24, and 26: work the "Chart 1" stitches, then end with 3 stitches in D. (Written instructions for knitting Chart 1 flat plus edge stitches are in the appendix, on page 7.) If you will be finishing with simple magnetic closures: Bind off all flap stitches. Go to directions for KNITTED STRAP. (page 5) Button Loop Bind Off Directions: Row 28: You will be working from the purl side of the flap, but you will be binding off knit-wise (with knit stitches). 1. Bind off 9 stitches. 2. Place the stitch on the right hand needle plus next two stitches on a DPN. (secure the remaining 27 flap sts on the circular needle) *** 3. Knit one row on the three stitches on the DPN, then work 10 rows of I cord. 4. Turn the I cord so that the working yarn is to the right. 5. Position live stitches on DPN behind adjacent live sts on the circular needle. 6. With the other end of the circular needle, work three needle bind off to remove stitches from DPN. *** 2010 by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 4-

5 7. Bind off 10 stitches from flap. 8. Place the stitch on the right hand needle plus next two stitches on a double pointed needle (secure the remaining 12 flap stitches on the circular needle) repeat between *** and *** (steps 3 through 6) Bind off the remaining flap stitches. Cut yarn KNITTED STRAP -Place 12 live stitches from one side of the bag on a #10.5 (6.5 mm) knitting needle (I used DPNS). When attaching yarn, leave a long length. When you later weave it in, you can use it for reinforcing this side of the strap. -Knit garter stitch until the strap WHILE GARTER STITCH IS GENTLY STRETCHED measures approximately twice the length you wish it to be after felting. For standard purse strap sizes; 37 inches will result in an approximately 18 1/2 inch length, 44 inches will result in an approximately 22 inch length, and 55 inches will result in an approximately 27 1/2 inch length. NOTE: The longer the strap, the more problematic felting it becomes. You may need to hand felt a longer strap after the main felting in the machine is finished, OR stretch the strap to your desired length. With a new needle, pick up the 12 live stitches on the opposite side of the bag. Bring the strap around the sides and bottom of the bag, to rest behind the live stitches on the needle, on the opposite side of the bag from where you started the strap. The three-needle bind off ridge, or grafting stitches will be on the inside of the strap. Three needle bind off provides a firmer join. (image is from my free pattern; Byzantine Strawberry Bag) Weave in all ends by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 5-

6 FELTING/FULLING This bag is meant to be heavily felted, to create the firmest fabric possible. Use the felting/fulling method you like the best. If you have no preferred method, I have provided basic instructions below. The quickest method of felting/fulling, in my experience: -Using a top-loading washing machine which only agitates when the lid is shut, set the water level at its lowest, the temperature of the water at its highest. Let some water gather in the machine. Add a squirt of dishwashing liquid, then add the item to be felted, plus a few heavier items like a large bath towel and/or some jeans. DO NOT CLOSE THE LID YET -Let the items soak in the hot water and soap solution for at least ten minutes, then close the lid and allow it to agitate. -Check on the progress of the felting about every 3-5 minutes, setting the dial back for further agitation as needed. This allows you to make certain the strap hasn't been caught and pulled by one of the heavier items. Don't panic if your item seems larger than when you put it in the first few times you check, it is all part of the process. -The spin cycle is not recommended, as it can stretch the item in ways you would not find useful. (For free-form felting, the spin cycle can be interesting, though.) -If the item doesn't seem to be felting as quickly as you would like, remove the item, let the hot water drain, and use cold water for the next agitation cycle. You can felt in lukewarm or cold water, but I find the quickest results happen when two extremes of temperature are used. -When the bag has felted to your desired firmness, remove it from the machine. -If a section of the bag (the strap or bottom, for example) isn't as firm as you would like it to be but the rest of the bag is done, this would be a good time to further hand felt that section in a basin of water. -Rinse any remaining soap from the wool. -Remove as much of the water as possible by gentle rolling in a dry towel. -Use your hands, some scrunched paper, old socks or other items to shape your project. If the strap or button loops or indeed any portion of the bag are too small for your purposes or taste, this will be a good opportunity to stretch them to your desired size. If you happen to stretch too much, you can go back and hand felt that portion again. -Let the item dry in a well-ventilated area. Depending on the humidity in your area, it can take up to two days to dry completely. After Felting Adjustments: Felting/fulling is an inexact method. Here are some solutions in case the bag didn't come out exactly as you might wish. -If the button loops are too large, use matching or contrasting thread, cord or even jewelry wire to bind the top of the loops (closest to the flap edge) to make the exact size button or toggle opening you want. -If the strap is too long, you can fold over the center section and secure it with sewing, hook and loop tape, or even by binding it like the button loops described above. This creates a nice pad which helps support the weight of the bag where the strap crosses your shoulder. Alternatively, you can simply tie an overhand knot in the strap to adjust it to your desired length. -The very best thing about firmly felted fabric is you can cut it without fear of the project unraveling. If you decide those button loops aren't for you after all, whack them off and use the magnetic closure instead by Diana Troldahl -Kachina Page 6-

7 APPENDIX: Charts 1 and 2, together with written instructions. IN THE ROUND (body of bag): Round 1: Knit in D Round 2: Knit in D Round 3: *k3a, k3d* Round 4: *k3a, k3d* Round 5: *k3a, k3d* Round 6: Knit in D Round 7: Knit in D Chart 1 KNIT FLAT (Inc. edge stitches) for flap: Row 1: Knit in D Row 2:Purl in D Row 3:k3D, *k3a, k3d* Row 4:*p3D, p3a* p3d Row 5: k3d, *k3a, k3d* Cut Yarn A Row 6: Purl in D Row 7: Knit in D Page 7

8 Chart 2 Round 1: Knit in D Round 2: Knit in D Round 3: *k1d, k2c, k2d, k4c, k2d, k4c, k2d, k2c, k1d* Round 4: *k1d, k2c, k2d, k1c, k3d, k2c, k3d, k1c, k2d, k2c, k1d* Round 5: *k1d, k4c, k3d, k4c, k3d, k4c, k1d* Round 6: *k1d, k3c, k3d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k3d, k3c, k1d* Round 7: *k1d, k2c, k3d, k3c, k2d, k3c, k3d, k2c, k1d* Round 8: *k2c, k3d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k3d, k2c* Round 9: *k1c, k3d, k3c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k3c, k3d, k1c* Round 10: *k2d, k3c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k3c, k2d* Round 11: *k2d, k3c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k3c, k2d* Round 12: *k1c, k3d, k3c, k2d, k2c, k2d, k3c, k3d, k1c* Round 13: *k2c, k3d, kca, k2d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k3d, k2c* Round 14: *k1d, k2c, k3d, k3c, k2d, k3c, k3d, k2c, k1d* Round 15: *k1d, k3c, k3d, k2c, k2d, k2c, k3d, k3c, k1d* Round 16: *k1d, k4c, k3d, k4c, k3d, k4c, k1d* Round 17: *k1d, k2c, k2d, k1c, k3d, k2c, k3d, k1c, k2d, k2c, k1d* Round 18: *k1d, k2c, k2d, k4c, k2d, k4c, k2d, k2c, k1d* Round 19: Knit in D Round 20: Knit in D Page 8