02/14/2008 PAGE. Parts Identification Principle Parts 4 Accessories 6 Installing Machine Head into portable case or cabinet and Connecting Machine 7

Transcription

1 0 rj , < 4

2 02/14/2008 PAGE Parts Identification Principle Parts 4 Accessories 6 Installing Machine Head into portable case or cabinet and Connecting Machine 7 Selection of Needles and Threads 8 Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching Guide 9 Changing Needle 10 Changing Needle Plate 10 Selection of Presser Foot 11 Winding Bobbin 12 Upper Threading 13 Threading Bobbin Case 14 Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle 14 Selection of Stitch Stitch Length Control 15 Reverse Button 15 Stitch Width Control 16 Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width 16 Controls Adjusting Thread Tensions 17 Adjusting Pressure on Fabric and Feed Dog Height 18 Sewing Light 19 Creative Embroidery Control 19 Preparing to Sew 20 Guiding Fabric 20 Turning Corners 20 Curved Seams 21 Sewing Across Heavy Seams 21 Removing the Work 21 OStITC14ES Straight Stitch Seams 22 Basting/Topstitching 22 Darning 22 Cording/Sewing in Zipper 23 Quilting 23 Zigzag Stitch Overcasting 24

3 Binder Folded Binding Two-Tone Binding French Seam 42 Manual Embroidery Designs 26 Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching 42 Edgestitcher Ruffler Flutter Hem 28 Applique 27 Adjusting Bobbin Winder 34 Adjusting and Changing Motor Belt 34 Problem and Remedies 35 Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Area 33 Freehand Monogramming 27 Gathering Over a Cord 28 Sewing Knits 24 Sewing Tips 29 Oiling Machine 32 PAGE 02/14/2008 Lace Application 28 Lace Trimmed Hems 42 Narrow Hemmer 4 1 The Set of Hemmers 39 Hand-Cut Bias Binding 38 Attachment Foot 37 TurnAround Buttonhole 31 Buttonholes Preparation 30 Shaping Darts in Interfacings 29 Corded Buttonhole 31 Tapering/Creative Embroidery 26 Satin Stitching 25 With a Thread Shank 25 Sewing on Buttons 24

4 F4T Vt PARTS IDENTIFICATION PRINCIPLE PARTS 02/14/2008 a

5 02/14/ Take-up 2. Pressure Control 3. Top Thread Guides 4. Creative Embroidery Control 5. Stitch Width Control 6. Bobbin Winder 7. Hand Wheel 8. Stitch Length Control 9. Reverse Button 10. Bobbin Winder Tension Discs 11. Feed Dog Height Control 12. Needle Plate 13. Presser Foot 14. Slide Plate 15. Thumb Screw 16. Check Spring 17. Face Cover 18. Tension Control 19, Needle Clamp 20. Spool Pins 21. Light Switch 22. Presser Foot Lever 23. Thread Cutter 24. Feed Dog 25. Head Hinge Holes 26. Motor 27. Belt Cover 28.Clutch Nut Always at its highest position when beginning or ending sewing. For regulating the pressure on fabric. For leading thread to tension control for sewing For precise adjustment of zigzag stitch width as well as tapering. For setting stitch width For winding thread on bobbin. For the control of the up and down movement of the needle. For selecting stitch length between no feeding and about 6 stitches pr inch. For easy backtacking to lock thread ends. For providing proper tension on thread when bobbin winding. For regulating feed dog height for various materials and types of sewing. With guide lines for sewing accuracy. For holding fabric when sewing. For opening an access for bobbin and bobbin case. For tightening presser foot in place on presser bar. For automatic precise adjustment of flow of upper thread. Hinge-open type for replacement of light bulb and oiling. For regulating the amount of tension on upper thread. For holding needle in place in the slot of needle bar. For holding spools, preventing over-spin of spools. For turning on or off the light inside face cover. For lifting or lowering presser bar and presser foot. For convenience to cut both upper and lower threads after sewing. Diamond point to move fabric accurately. For installation of machine head into portable case or cabinet Volts, for running machine. For covering motor belt. For releasing movement of the needle bar in order to wind bobbin.

6 02/14/2008 ACCESSOR I ES Your new sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories to make your sewing easier. METAL BOBBINS Three metal bobbtns are included STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT& NEEDLE PLATE For straight stitch ing on very sheer soft or very light weight stretchy ma tenals where extra control is needed. A PACK OF NEEDLES One each of sizes 411. #14 and 416 hght ball point needles. BUTTON FOOT For holding buttons in place when stitch- (J1 SPOOL CUSHIONS BUTTONHOLE FOOT Place felt spool custi ions on spool pins to reduce sound of spool spinning 0 Use for buttønhol ing. Do not use when normal sew ing. SCREW DRIVERS Small one for bobbin thread tension ad justment. Large one for thumb screw. needle clamp, etc. CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT For stitching very dose to the edge of a card or zipper, OILER QUILTING GUIDE Containing machine oil, use as oiler. Helps make parallel rows of stitching. CLOTH GUIDE WITH SCREW Aid in creating straight seams. SEAM RIPPER Por cutting open the buttonholes and for removing stitches.

7 making 02/14/2008 INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD INTO OR CABINET-AND CONNECTING MACHINE PORTABLE. CASE Loosen both head hinge set screws on the back of machine bed plate until head hinge- holes are clear. Tilt head hinge pins up and back as far as they will go. Carefully slip machine head onto hinges sure the head hinge pins are inserted as far as they can go into head hinge holes. Allow machine head to rest in its tilted back position. Tighten both set screws securely with screwdriver. Plug electrical leads from machine head into sockets located inside cabinet or portable case. Cord identified with motor tag must be plugged into socket marked motor. Untagged cord goes to light socket. Insert plug into a wall outlet of Volts. 7

8 02/14/2008 SELECTION OF NEEDLES AND THREADS The needle arid thread you choose depends upon the fabric you are stitching. The correct selection of needle and thread is very important to avoid damaging light weight or tightly woven fabrics, to prevent skipped stitches when sewing on very sheer, stretchy fabrics or needle breakage when stitching heavy or stiff fabrics. For best results, sewing machine needles should be replaced when they become even slightly dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment. A regular needle is suggested for use with woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, of the range in size from 8 to 20 are used on this machine. The lower number indicates the finer needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11 and 14. A ball point needle is recommended for use with tricots, jerseys, lingeries and power nets. Unlike sharp pointed needles, which pierce fibers of knit fabrics destroying elasticity,the ball point needle slips between fibers without damage to fabric and skipped stitches. REGULAR SHARP NEEDLE BALLPOINT NEEDLE A wedge point needle is recommended for use with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge cutting point pierces leather more easily than ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in more satisfactory stitching. Although a ball point needle is recommended for knit fabrics and sewing on very stretchy fabrics of knits, the placement of a thin paper under the fabric and the use of a finer needle are suggested to prevent skip stitches. Always use the same type and size of thread in both needle and bobbin. Use a good quality thread without knots for best stitches. 8 WEDGE POINT NEEDLE

9 canvas, duck, etc. 8 tarpaulin, sacking, 18 to Heavy Duty Extremely heavy 6 NEEDLE THREAD FABRIC STITCHING GUIDE batiste, lace, organdy, nylon net, marquisette, etc. Very sheer chiffon, Plastic film, etc. handkerchief linen, dimity, crepe, Sheer voile, lawn, china, taffeta, sheer percale, gingham, linen, wool, shantung, etc. Medium broadcloth, suiting, felt, terry, etc. fabric velveteen Medium heavy drapery fabric, ticking. denim, leatherette. Heavy upholstery 02/14/ to 16 (plastic film> 8 to 10 ii 16 to to 12 to to Heavy Duty Heavy Duty

10 02/14/2008 CHANGING NEEDLE Always change the needle after every other garment especially when sewing on polyester and nylon fabrics which dull needles much faster. When needles are dull or bent, they damage both your fabric and the machine. A general rule when placing sewing machine needles is that the flat side of the needle is placed to the right of the machine, when the bobbin is put in from the left. If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches will not form. TIGHTE)i To change the needle 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you, 2. Loosen needle clamp to remove the needle. 3. Place needle (flat side to the right and long groove to the left) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go, tighten needle clamp. 4, After changing the needle, make one complete turn of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is clearing the needle plate, CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE Although an all-purpose, utility needle plate is fixed on your machine, for straight sewing on fine fabric or soft very stretchy fabric, you may want to use the straight stitch needle plate with the straight stitch foot, which are included in your accessory box. To change the needle plate, simply slide the slide plate as far left as possible. Remove the two screws holding the plate in place. Lift the needle plate and replace. The needle plate is removed for cleaning the lint which may pile up between $tflat$tfl WIUTY needle plate and feed dogs. NEOLE PLATE

11 02/14/2008 SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT For most ordinary sewing the original all-purpose foot can be used. However, the following feet in your accessory box are recommended for special purposes. Straight Stitch Foot This has only a narrow hole to accommo date only straight stitching. It may be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more control. When using this foot, the Stitch Width Control should be at 0 to avoid hitting the foot and breaking the needle. Buttonhole Foot This foot has a groove underneath, to allow the narrow satin stitch or button hole to form evenly. However, if skipstitch occurs on sheer fabrics with this foot, it may be necessary to use thin paper underneath. Cording or Zipper Foot, and Button Foot Use for sewing very close to the edge of a cord or zipper and sewing on buttons respectively. CHANGING FOOT Use the large screwdriver to loosen thumb screw. Turn the screw backward until the foot becomes loose. Then, lift up on presser foot lever until it is in its highest position in order to remove the foot. Replace with desired foot and tighten thumb screw securely. II

12 02/14/2008 WINDING BOBBIN Disengage the hand wheel (1) from the stitching mechanism by turning the clutch nut (2) toward you or counterclockwise. Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and lead thread through the Top Thread Guide (3) and Bobbin Winder Tension Disc at the right front of bedplate. Run the end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Press bobbin winder latch (4) down, and hold the thread end loosely then start machine slowly, and bobbin winder latch will be released to stop winding when bobbin is full. Turn clutch nut away from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that needle moves when you turn the hand wheel. Break oft loose thread end used to start the winding and cut other thread end. Then remove bobbin from bobbin winder.

13 thread guides. 3. Lead the thread through the top spool pin. 2. Place a spool of thread on the highest position. to raise the take-up lever to its 1. Turn the hand wheel toward you UPPER THREADING SPflNG CHECt( 02/14/2008 I be pulled out straight. Place long. threads three or four inches of the machine, leaving both about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the foot and draw toward the side both thread ends under presser the upper thread which then can A thread loop will form over you until the needle goes all the way down and comes back up. end of the upper thread loosely and turn the hand wheel toward TO RIGHT, drawing it through 8. Thread the needle FROM LEFT the threading slot, then, through thread guide at the bottom of the needle bar thread guide from the back. 7. Lead thread down through the 6. Up and through the eye of takeup lever from right to left. tug into the hook. check spring and with a slight 5. Draw the thread up through the discs, from right to left. 4. Down and between the tension

14 02/14/2008 THREADING BOBBIN CASE 1. Hold bobbin case be tween thumb and fore finger of left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between thumb and fore finger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. 2. Insert bobbin into bob bin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case and draw it under tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring. PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Raise needle bar to its highest position, and slide plate to the left. Hold the bobbin case latch (D) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle body (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger (E) is opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible until the latch catches on the center post of the shuttle. Then release the bobbin case latch (D). Press the bobbin case again after the latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case is locked securely in place, Close the slide plate.

15 1F per inch on ordinary fabrics 6 stitches the control may be but At 0, the fabric does not feedat all. With the control the fabric in ordinary sewing. around the symbol II for buttonhole, the shortest o stitch is available. At 4 is the longest about The stitch length control controls the forward feeding of Number of stitches per inch (approx,) No Feeding Numeral on the control o per inch Cross reference table between numeral o the control and number of actual stitches machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in. in ordinary sewing, press the Reverse Button as far as it will go, so that your machine REVERSE BUTTON pointer above the control. to the right to shorten the stitch. set at any desired spot between 0 and 4 for a variety of length, Turn the control to the left to lengthen and The stitch length number you choose is indicated by the STITCH LENGTH CONTROL SELECTION OF STITCH: 02/14/2008 When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam sews in reverse at approximately the same stitch length as forward stitch length. The

16 02/14/2008 STITCH WIDTH CONTROL This control controls the swing of the needle from left to right for various widths of stitches. At 0 the straight stitch results in regular sewing. With the control to the right from 0 position, the needle takes a large swing resulting in a wide column of stitches no matter which pattern is selected. RELATING STITCH LENGTH TO STITCH WIDTH When the Stitch Width Control is set at one particular width (such as 4), the stitch length control will now control how close those stitches come together. At length 0, the fabric does not move, resulting in a bar of stitches formed one on top of the other, as is used in button sewing. At the Buttonhole symbol mark or near 0, the feed pulls the fabric through slowly, resulting in a dense column of stitches called a satin stitch. A length 4, a very long open zigzag resu Its. it:

17 tension with the presser foot down, the tension be sure that the control to the right. To decrease, turn to the left. Before adjusting the upper thread, turn tension as the tension is released when it is Always adjust the upper thread raised. To increase the tension on CONTROLS: ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS thread tension. shghy loon the upper stitch length. In case of satin tension balance under medium It is recommended to adjust the balanced, a perfect stitch will be the upper thread which is lying flat tensions are balanced but fabric is tiqht. Loosen both tensions evenly. loose, the upper thread form.s loops over the bobbin thread lying flat on sheer fabrics, both tensions are too When the upper tension is too on the fabric (B). the bobbin thread is pulled up over When the upper tension is too tight, ing in fabric (A). formed with both threads interlock puckered in sewing direction on When the upper and bobbin thread the fabric (C). When both tensions are properly wise to loosen. screw on side of the bobbin case bobbin thread tension, turn small It is seldom required to adjust machine is threaded properly. the bobbin thread tension, however, when necessary to change clockwise to tighten, counterclock 02/14/2008 I

18 02/14/2008 ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC AND FEED DOG HEIGHT GENERAL SEWING Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on very heavy and bulky fabrics and very stretchy knit fabrics of medium and very light weight, the center pin (B) of the pressure control should be at its lowest position also, the right button of feed dog height control be pushed full down, except for sewing on very sheer fabrics. For above exceptional fabrics, refer to below table. To reduce half the pressure, press the outer ring (A) of the pressure control, then press the center pin (B) down again to halfway down. To reduce half the feed dog height, push the left button of feed dog height control slightly down to raise right button up at a halfway position. L Ordi*iary fabric tf lesa eiasticity 4eavy and butky fabrks Medium weight fabrics Light weight soft fabrics Half Full Full button; Fuihiown Pulf down Half way down Very stretchy fabrics and knits: t,utton: Heavy and bulky ones Half Full down Medium weight ones Half Full down Light weight nd sheer ones Fuli Halfway down MENDING AND DARNING: n order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning and mending, release the center pin (B) completely by pressing down on the outer ring (A). Press down the left button of feed dog height control all the way down, which drops the feed dog well below the needle plate. To return the feed dog height to normal, push the right button down in full position.

19 02/14/2008 SEWING LIGHT The sewing light is located in face cover directly over the needle so as to better illuminate the stitching area. Turn the light on and off by pushing the switch at the rear of face cover. To replace bulb, turn light off and open face cover to the left. Unscrew bulb as you do a conventional light bulb. Place new bulb in socket and screw in place. CREATIVE EMBROIDERY CONTROL This is the alternative stitch width control, located above the stitch width control capable of varying the stitch width while sewing. With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by simply applying pressure on the creative embroidery lever left to right. This lever is spring controlled and will always return to straight sewing.

20 U/ I4/LUU PREPARING TO SEW Have take-up lever at highest position before starting to sew. Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of hand basting. It is possible to sew over pins when placed at right angles to the edge of.fabric with the pin head at the raw edge, but for best results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles. Place material and threads under presser foot and lower the presser foot. Lower the needle by turning hand wheel by hand to check if the needle will pierce the stitching line you want to sew. You are now ready to begin sewing. Press the speed control. The speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control. Never run machine without material under presser foot. GUIDING FABRIC The scale is etched with every 1/8 inch distance. Let the edge of fabric follow the line selected for the seam, and let your eyes follow the etched line you selected for the seam, not the needle, during sewing. To help you guide the fabric place doth guide attachment securing it by the extra thumb screw onto machine bedplate. Cloth guide and extra thumb screw are included in your accessory box, Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. TURNING CORNERS To pivot at a corner, leave the needle in the fabric. Lift the presser foot, turn the fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

21 the front curve of presser foot. the fabric back and to the left the presser foot. 91 Leave the ends of threads under and pass the threads over the needle in both hands, so as not to bend the When approaching heavy seam, Now raise the presser foot and draw is at the highest position. Be sure to stop the machine when so that the heavy seam falls under hold the fabric upward on an angle SEWING ACROSS HEAVY stretch stitch. The cloth guide may required on the seam, sew by the thread take-up lever or needle On the part where elasticity is Pull down slightly, holding thread thread cutter. Use shghtly shorter stitch length be used on angle as shown. CURVED SEAMS REMOVING THE WORK SEAMS Uf I4ILULRJ than that of the rest of the seams,

22 02/14/2008 STRAIGHT STITCH SEAMS Length 2 3 Width: 0 Feed Doq UP Pressure Full Foot: Straight Stitch of All Purpose The normal stitch length for most fabrics is between 2 3 but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length. Be sure to set the stitch width control at 0. BASTI NG/TOPSTITCH I NG Length: 3 4 Width: 0 Feed Dog: UP Pressure: Full Foot: Straight Stitch Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in fullness. Topstitching can be done very effectively with the long straight stitch. For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needle (size 16 or 18). 9 Length: 0 Width: 0 Feed Dog: Down Pressure: 0 Foot: All Purpose DARNING Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is optional depending on the fabric. A fine thread is recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together. Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to start, then move the fabric slowly backwards and forwards while running the machine very fast to fill the area. Professional results will be attained by moving the fabric in a figure eight pattern while sewing. After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the same manner.

23 02/14/2008 CORDING/SEWING IN ZIPPER INSERT CORDING (A) (B) Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen the adjusting screw on the back of cording! zipper toot and set the foot to the left of needle. Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides together. Stitch a second time with cording/zipper foot to the right of needle so that the needle stitches close to the cord through all thicknesses. ZIPPERS Swing the foot to left or right of the needle as needed so that the foot sews very close to zipper teeth. QUILTING Parallel straight lines are easy to sew with the quilting guide. To attach the guide, loosen thumb screw and slip the U-shaped holder of the guide between presser foot and thumb screw. Tighten the thumb screw securely. Adjust the curved bar to the desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of stitching as desired, then, for the succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous stitch line. A straight stitch, zigzag may be used.

24 off the fabric. allowing stitch to form half on and half Foot: All Purpose Pressure: FuH Width:4 raw edge along the center slot of the foot the opening of the sewing foot and guide Length. 1/2 2 Feed Dog: UP 02/14/2008 Foot: Button Foot Pressure: Full Length: 0 Feed Dog: Down Width:1-4 Foot: Al? Purpose Pressure: Full Width: 1 Dog: UP Feed Length:1/22 G take a few stitches in the left hand hole. threads, set the stitch width at 0 and hand before running the machine fast. needle in the left hole. To lock the until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the button. securing a button in place. Stop with the Take a stitch into the hole. move zigzag width control to the right Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for of the button by moving the wheel by Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes Raise the needle from the left hole, and swing then gently lower the button foot. directly under the needle of its left zigzag Place the button so its left hole comes SEWING ON BUTTONS zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny of firm knits for added strength. After The narrow zigzag can be used in seams seam will give when stretched. SEWING KNITS Place the edge of the material underneath OVERCASTING ZIGZAG STITCH:

25 fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Pull the leaving threads about six inches from remove work from under the presser foot After stitching the button to the fabric, pick. shank, sew over a pin or rounded tooth away from the fabric. To form a thread have a thread shank to make them stand Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should WITH A THREAD SHANK SEWING ON BUTTON tapering, manual designed embroidery, action or symbol fl The setting will desirable to loosen the upper tension the fabric for best results. surface look especially smooth. For light weight fabrics, place a paper underneath underneath in order to make the top This is useful for decoration such as slightly to cause the threads to lock vary for different fabrics. It may be as possible without stopping the feeding setting the stitch length as near to 0 very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by The satin stitch, which is really just a monogramming and applique. SATIN STITCHING fabric and tie thread ends securely. ing stitches. Pull threads to back of the winding threads tightly around the attach shank between button and fabric by threads to back of button and form a 02/14/2008 Foot: All Purpose Pressure: Full Width: 1 4 Feed Dog: UP Length: Near 0

26 DESIGNS embroidery control slowly from left to attractive resu Its. /1 created. For tapered monogram run the grams and other interesting designs can be sewing. By this method, tapered mono moving creative embroidery control while and decreasing the stitch width by hflhtliá diiilliiit1!iii Tapering is done by gradually increasing machine fast while sliding the creative 02/14/2008 Foot: All Purpose Length: Near 0 Width: 0 i Feed Dog: UP Pressure: Full a constant speed and sliding the creative Length: Near 0 Width: 0 1 Feed Dog: UP Pressure: Full thum, various designs can be created. Different designs can be made by sliding embroidery control in a definite rhy left and right. By running the machine at the creative embroidery control between MANUAL EMBROIDERY Foot: All Purpose designs. Variegated thread can give can be combined to form letters and the fabric at one point. Various strokes fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot right and from right to left. First, learn this stroke by letting the the fabric as you are tapering by holding EMBROIDERY TAPERING/CREATIVE

27 27 to the right side of the fabric. An pecially for soft fabrics and toweling. design. Corners look much better when the just turned. when stitching and can be torn away when the applique is completed. he used to give more body to the fabric As with all decorative stitches, paper may point is stitched by pivoting rather than design on fabric to be appliqued, then curve, stop frequently at the inside edge accomplished any letter is easy. Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven interfacing under the fabric may make monogramming towels, cellophane plac otherwise plain article. First, trace the around the applique with a satin stitch ed. Applying decorative shapes of fabric narrow zigzag sew around the traced After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew APPLIQUE be careful that the stitches do not pile up. moving the paper under a stationary pen. away remaining cellophane when finish In order to monogram, you must move embroidery hoop is recommended es interfacing may be torn or cut away at garment. With a small straight stitch or pin or baste it securely in place on is a very interesting way of trimming an sonalized touch, first transfer the design the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy Practice by forming loops. Once this is the completion of the monogram.when scraps to household articles and clothing For giving garments and linens a per Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag area. guiding thefabric easier. The paper or ed on the top will help cover loops and make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut or short length zigzag stitch. For a smooth of the curve to pivot the fabric slightly, Step 1 Width:0-1 Length: 1 FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING 02/14/2008 falls close together like a satin stitch, but When guiding from side to side, move Foot: All Purpose Feed Dog: Down Width: 1-4 Length: 0 Pressure: 0 Length: Near 0 Step 2 Foot: All Purpose Feed Dog: UP Width: 1.4 Pressure: Full Foot: All Purpose Pressure: Full

28 Length: 1 2 Width: 2 3 out in order to eliminate bulk. thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into stitched in place, the cord can be pulled fabrics. Once the gathers have been often breaks while pulling in fullness. A 02/14/2008 small zigzag across a cord such as crochet 28 n Foot: All Purpose Width: 3-4 Pressure: Full Feed Dog: UP Length: Near 0 the fabric. reposition your hands, keep the needle in An unusual way of hemming or finishing goes over the edge. When you stop to the fabric equally, making sure the needle overcasting an edge, but the fabric is needle as you sew. For best results, pull stretched in back and in front of the edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemming in this manner is just like FLUTTER HEM Foot: All Purpose Pressure: Full Feed Dog: UP Length: 1/2 1 Width: 1-2 invisible application. When using a scalloped edged lace follow A straight edged lace or braid has a baste lace in place easing or mitering touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or Attaching laces or trims adds a special corners where neccessary. convenient line to follow when sewing. the design of the lace for an almost LACE APPLICATION Foot: All Purpose Pressure: Full Feed Dog: UP Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch GATHERING OVER A CORD

29 Feed Dog: UP Length: 1/2 1 Width: 1-2 stitching. Turn and press. Trim seam allowance close to line of seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch. allowance that would ordinarily show of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam particularly desirable for the inside seams through is eliminated by following the When a dainty hair line finish is SEWING TIPS jot. All Purpose Width: 1 Pressure: Full Feed Dog: UP Length: 1/2 1 both raw edqes close to stitching. lines. Zigzag st4tch along marking line lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart Cut interfacing down center between dart from point to wide end of dart. Trim INTERFACINGS SHAPING DARTS IN Foot: All Purpose Pressure: Full 02/14/

30 OF GARMENT CENTER LINE placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot. A+B+ 1/8 inch method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailor s chalk, or an invisible cellophane tape, as shown. easily, as well as the stitch length needed for the To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add length needed for the button to pass through the hole wear. An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be. the centerline of the garment. Vertical buttonholes are garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your found in the garment and be sure to include the Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the PREPARATION appearance. thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer directly on the center line. with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which the length of the button (A), plus the thickness of the Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8 inch beyond garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thicknesses buttonholes. Two different methods are given below, button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. The length Various fabrics require various methods of sewing interfacing. The test sample should help determine the should be close together, but not so close that they pile BUTTONHOLES 02/14/2008

31 then lower presser foot and take one stitch to not to cut into the stitches, as illustrated before clipping. F,)or Buttonhole Foot or needle threader, and knot the cord ends take few stitches to bartack another end of marked buttonhole. cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle Width: 1 2 hole and finish stitching with needle in sew down the left edge of marked button control, set stitch width control at 2 then, all the way down, release creative embroidery 2. Push right button of feed dog height control hole. Cut center open space of buttonhole carefully previously. 6. Lock thread by stitching a few stitches at another edge of marked buttonhole. 4. Pushing creative embroidery control to right, 3. Lift presser foot and pivot the fabric around, 5. Up feed dog to high position and sew down dog at down position. stitches to bartack the end of marked button control at its right end position, take few all the way down, hold creative embroidery 0 width and down position feed dog height. left button of feed dog height control left turning hand wheel by hand. top or low end of marked buttonhole. Push fabric at the right side of stitches. Set feed the under the presser foot in such a way that the zigzag stitch covers the cord. fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole, It is excess cord close to the bartack on woven as for the turn-around buttonhole having cord buttonhole will help keep the fabric from buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or in which the stitching often gets buried and excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits stretching out of shape. 1. Place material under presser foot to sew the TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLE CORDED BUTTONHOLE 02/14/2008 At the completion of the buttonhole snip the Width: 2 Pressure: Full Feed Dog: DOWN-UP-DOWN-UP-DOWN Length: Symbol ji Foot: Buttonhole Foot Pressure: Full Feed Dog: DOWN-UP-DOWN-UP-DOWN Length: Symbol fl

32 6u!j!o JGAO P!0AV SUO!e4SflhI! UO SMO.LIR aq Aq paeopui s Aq6noJoLfl au!lpew inoa io ieaa e auo op noa 6U!Mas O UflOWB Gt4 uo spudep UO MOH ll00 Buieiodo i daaj o AIIeUo!seo papo aq pflo4s aul.pew JflOA S1!O pioqasfloq uowwoz Aue asri ou op po auiqoew 6uiMas p006 e Auo as 3NIHOVIN DNflIO TA R r i v, c 8OO/VLIO

33 4. Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A). ly becomes clogged with loose threads 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps 1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Cleaning and removal of the lint will back on its hinges. safeguard the performance. reaches its highest position. Tilt head To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed efficient operation of the machine. and lint. This will interfere with the The stitch forming mechanism occasional CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE AREA 02/14/2008 tie assembly: When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shut threads, lint, etc. shuttle race cover by removing all 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and 3. Replace shuttle race cover (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock 5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue (a) into notch (c) of race cover (C). been snapped securely into position. into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (f), making certain the clamps have against shuttle driver and adjust into position. 2. Place lint cleaner (D) to shuttle driver and shuttle body (E) in race (F) race cover (C) and the shuttle body 2. Remove bobbin case (A). as follows: 1. Turn hand wheel until the needle (f) outward and remove the shuttle (E) and the lint cleaner (D).

34 above. Remove top cover Slip belt off motor pulley and then Replace motor belt by slipping it over Adjust motor belt tension as noted the bobbin winder tension discs slightly hand wheel and then over motor pulley. If the thread winds unevenly on bobbin bobbin on bobbin winder, especially, to the left. If the thread winds as shown right front bed plate to align to the when thread winds unevenly on bobbin. to tighten. When proper adjustment is To remove motor belt: over hand wheel. attained, tighten screw securely. bracket (B) to its highest position. Loosen screw (A) and move motor move bracket up to loosen belt and down (A> securing the motor bracket (B) and To adjust motor belt, loosen the screw MOTOR BELT of bobbin winder tension discs at the It may be necessary to adjust the position as shown (A), loosen set screw and move (B), move the discs slightly to the right. ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER ADJUSTING AND CHANGING (A) (B) 02/14/2008

35 teed ing improper Puckering frregular Upper thread tension Too stretchy fabric. thread being used. rectly irs clamp. Needle placed incor Material Tenseons too tight 8obbiri not wound Uneven Pulling or holding Poor quality thread. Not enough tension evenly Improper threading. Bent needle. 02/14/2008 Too fme a needle for too sharp. Bent Or eye o needle needle. T much tension, Improperly threaded, Upper Thread Place needle correctly. (See page 10.) each other. (See page 9.) Place a paper beneath fabric, or use Avoid pulling or holding material, just page 10, Discard all blunt Or bent needles and feed dog, Lint in feed dog Remove needle plate and clean lint from Replace to new needle. (See page 10.) Replace needle or thread to conform Tighten upper tension. Adjust bobbin winder, (See page 34.) replace with new. page 13, and rethread machine. Try a new needle, Try different thread, Bali Point needle Stitches Skipping Binds way, Clean and Oil machine the shuttle area. (See page 32.) (f Machine Thread or lint in race Stitch length too long. Dull needle, Bent or blunt needle Improper setting of in incorrect position. Starting with take-up thread being used. Needle too fine for on upper thread. Stitches material Stitches 100 loose, Reduce stitch length. Change needle, See tension adjustment, page 17, Refer to needle setting instruction, see in highest position. (See page p.) Loosen upper thread tension, Always start sewing with take-up lever Refer to threading instructions, see See needle and thread chart, page 9, Increase tension, guide it See threading instruction, page 13.

36 02/14/2008 In addition to the basic set of accessories equipped on your machine, following are additional time-saving attachments specially designed for your machine. They are available at modest cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot supply you with these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your machine. If a sewing machine dealer is not available, mail your inquiry direct to: or, WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, Berea Road, Cleveland, Ohio WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD., 1470 Birchmount Rd. Scarborough, Ontario, Canada. RUFFLER DARNING SPRING NARROW HEMMER PART #1403 PART #4990 PART #76316 ATTACHMENT FOOT BINDER EDGE STITCHER PART #82528 PART #74159 PART #76554 HEMMERS; 7/8 HEM 518 HEM 318 HEM 1I4 HEM PART #76553 PART #76552 PART #76551 PART #76550

37 02/14/2008 ATTACHMENT FOOT In order to attach binder, edqesttcher and the hemmers, it is necessary to remove the preiter foot and replace it with the attachment foot. Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmerti by sliding the attachment to the left as far as possible and tightening the screw. The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move the attachment to the correct position before tightening the mounting screw. EDGESTITCHER The edgestitcher is used in making dainty lace insertions, edgings and piping. The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in sewing together various pieces of material. If you want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace and tucked strips together, place the piece of material that will be on top in slot 1 and the lower fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you are sewing lace edging to a finished edge of fabric, place the fabric in slot 1 and the lace in slot 4. Be sure to draw the lace and material under the needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace Iiqhtly. Rick-rack can be sewn to the edge of the material in the same manner. To trim with wide piping place the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the piping to the left in slot 3, for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3. Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a French seam.

38 uses. material in one operation. Slots on Cut folded binding to a point, binding diagonally toward end, binder. There are hundreds of other See suggestions on how to use the insert in appropriate slot. Draw opens and binding encircles open necessary. edge also in one operation. When of binder. Draw back until cut sure it is on the edge, adjust if through slot and under binder with FOLDED BINDING folded bias binding. strong pin. Test stitching to be sure almost to fold. Slip fold into center Two bindings can be sewn on fabric half for a couple of inches. Cut two are used always skip one size TWO-TONE BINDING HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING correct size slot. ponding widths of commercially binder to right or left. between widths, inserting each in scroll of the binder are for corres it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding end of scroll. Test stitching to be and applies it to the edge of The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut Cut 1516 inch bias binding fold n This attachment folds bias binding inch wide. BINDER 02/14/2008

39 hemmer. hemmer you use. A few uses are shown below. You can make a hem 1/4, 3/8, 5/8 or 7/8 in width, depending upon which handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of stitching. Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold at each end of fold. Slip fold to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn into guide and up over spoon. Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin thread is pulled up. THE SET OF HEMMERS 02/14/2008

40 bodice of a dress etc. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. RUFFLER 02/14/2008

41 02/14/2008 NARROW HEMMER With needle at its highest position replace re gular presser foot with narrow hemmer and ti ghten it securely in place. Stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number 2 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit. For a plain narrow hem make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw fabric forward to end and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start stitching. Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double turn through scroll. The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for edges of ruffles or any other dainty work.

42 and hem into scroll. hem, let hem roll over and sew in For cording effect, use zigzag stitch wide enough to catch both edges for covering chairs and so forth. right hand edge of lower piece. fabric making French searrt with satin stitch. This can be used side. of the narrow rolled hem and sew FRENCH SEAM both in scroll, as for plain narrow on right hand side of fabric. Insert Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge shown, guiding lace under needle the slot next to needle Sew hem as ed the hem is pressed on the wrong hem to roll over and sew in top Insert in hemmer scroll allowing facing each other and the top piece lace in one stitching, insert lace in of material extending 1/8 inch to To sew a narrow hem and attach LACE TRIMMED HEM LACE EDGE WITH INVISI BLE STiTCHING 02/14/2008 lace. When the stitching is compiet Place material with right sides A 1

43 02/14/2008 ME MO

44 b I UI /ssqqifli LSt 3 I IIU1IIIDS 33.IHm Ii SOOUt7L/ZO