Creative I techniques of advanced clothing construction It s challenging to try to improve the looks of garments made at home by employing some of the

Transcription

1 techniques of, advanced, clothing comatruction

2 Creative I techniques of advanced clothing construction It s challenging to try to improve the looks of garments made at home by employing some of the sewing tricks of the professionals. Couturier houses use many of these advanced construction techniques which are not usually found on pattern guides. In fact, you can take a pattern design and make from it a garment that is individually yours by using some of these ideas. Happy sewing! The Perfect Faced Facing Neater Neckline Finish All-In One Facing for Collarless, Sleeveless Dresses Neckline Notions Out-of Sight Buttons and Buttonholes Loops Loops and Buttons Quick and Easy Slot Buttonholes Keep Front Button-Closure Dresses Closed Buck the Bulk Sleeveless Garments Almost Sleeveless Sleeves Camisoles for Shift-No-More Skirts Hemline Flare Removed the Easy Way Darts for Decoration Hide That Hook That Superb Hang To Jackets French Piping Continuous Bias Strips Beautiful Bias Binding Mystery Out of Mitered Corners Pointed Look for Points Perfect Patch Pockets- Easy-Does It Waistband Application Hems with Seamed Pleats Superb Top-Stitching Tie Threads Removing Thread Markings on Fabrics Magical Know-How with Chiffon

3 Advanced Construction Techniques rsa N. Baste edges together éfg! 67: 1 3!" Q. For lovely silk blouses, dresses made of thin fabrics, or for any other garment you want to have that couturier finish, try this trick: Construct garment using lining or underlining as necessary. Leave raw edges exposed at neck and armholes. Then for that perfect faced facing, cut the facing out of the garment fabric just as you usually do. Also cut a duplicate facing out of the lining or underlining fabric. Next, join the underarm seams of each facing piece. Press seam open. Trim seam allowance.. Fig. 3 Machine stitch the facing to garment in usual manner; right sides of garment and fabric together. Match corresponding notches and seams. Fig. 4. Trim seam. Clip seam allowance from notch to notch in underarm portion. Turn facing to inside of garment and press. Slipstitch finished perfect faced facing edge invisibly to lining. Fig. 5. Facing cut from lining fabric Facing cut from garment fabric Fig. 4 Place facing and corresponding lining piece together with right sides of fabric together. Machine stitch the unnotched edge forming a % inch seam. Fig. 2. Turn and press, keeping the seam rolled very slightly under. Baste the notched edges together using a long running stitch. Fig. 3. Fig. 2 Machine stitch facing and lining together Trim. Turn. Fig. 5 One additional tip: This same method of application could be used when facingtype decorative touches are used on the right side of garments around neckline and sleeves. This would involve stitching the facing on the wrong side of the fabric and then turning it to the right side of the garment.

4 It s hard sometimes, especially when fabric is bulky, to get the neckline flat and smooth at center back opening. Try this method on your next blouse or dress. With or without a collar, this technique works every time. Prepare neck facing by sewing together at shoulder seams and finishing unnotched edge. Trim and press shoulder seams. (The facing may be prepared as discussed under The Perfect Faced Facing.) On the overlap side of the back facing, turn under 11/8 inches. Press. On the underlap side, turn under 1/2 inch. Press.. Starting at about 1 inch from folded edges of facing, understitch the facing. Press neckline edge of facing in place, including the extensions of the garment to which the facing is not sewed. Fig. 3. Inside of garment Fig. 3 Understitching Machine baste the center back seam of the garment. The garment extensions to which the facing is not sewed are turned down and included in this stitching. ;. Insert zipper by machine or by the hand-sewn method. The overlap zipper application must be used when putting the facing on by this method. Start zipper about 1A; inch to 1/2 inch down from top of garment neckline edge. Slant out the raw edges of tape at top of zipper, and hand tack in place. Turn both sides of the facing into position over the zipper and hand tack in place. Fig. 5. Fig. 4 Extension turned down (, Apply facing to garment neckline matching all notches and markings. Check to be sure facing is 1/2 inch from edge of garment on underlap side, and 11/8 inches from edge on overlap side. Stitch facing to garment. Trim seams as close as possible; clip. Notice in the illustration that the neckline seam is trimmed starting 14 inch from folded edges of facing. Fig. 2. (A and B). Fig. 2 Inside of garment Inside of garment Center back seam Put the final touches on necklines by hand tacking the facing down at shoulder seams, pressing the neckline edge over a pressing ham and applying a hook and eye at neckline edge above zipper.

5 Tuck in front facing edge \/ Fig. 2 The best way I know to finish the shoulders of a collarless, sleeveless dress is given here. Try it. You ll like the results. The facing for the neckline and sleeveline is cut in one. Finish the outer edge of the facing in an acceptable method for the fabric. Join the front and back facings at underarm. When sewing up the dress, leave the shoulder seams open. Now you are ready to apply the facing to the dress. With right sides of fabric together, sew the facing to dress around neckline and sleeveline.. A tip worth remembering is make the facing from shoulder line to notches of armseye about 1/3 inch smaller. This forces the seamline to roll under and not show when the dress is completed. Trim and clip seams. Turn facing to inside of dress and press. Leave shoulders \/ open XI Working carefully, turn the raw edges of front shoulder seam to the inside. Fig. 2. Then tuck the back shoulder extension inside the front. Fig. 3. Reach up under the front facing and gently pull both shoulders from underneath. Match raw edges of shoulder seams and stitch together. Before stitching, make certain seamlines match correctly. Fig. 4. Finger press seam open. Trim seam. Draw shoulder seam back into proper position and press. Fig. 4 Tuck back facing end into front Fig. 3 Plunging necklines as well as wide ones can present the wearer some embarrassing situations if they are not finished with the best known tricks of the professionals. For that dress with the deep V, anchor the neckline with a short length of featherboning. Cut a 3 inch strip of featherboning. Round off the ends. Even, if the featherboning you buy is covered in fabric, put another covering over it to color coordinate with your garment. Use seambinding to cover featherboning, turning in the raw edges when you machine stitch binding in place. And now for the trick of the professionals: Sew one end of the featherbonin g to the neckline facing IA inch below the deepest point of the V. The lower end is left free to slip behind bra and permanently hold this beautiful neckline in place..

6 .1 Featherbone stay attached at top only. For that U shaped neckline, your security strategy has to be a little different. Using a narrow ribbon or seam tape, cut four 8 inch long strips. Sew a strip on each bra. Fig. 2. Try on dress and mark with pins the location where strips have been sewed on bra. Remove dress and sew strips at points marked on dress, attaching the strips to facing only. Fig. 3. When you wear the dress, you can tie the neckline in place. Ever spoiled the looks of your lovely outfit by having an underwear strap to peep out? This can be prevented with a strap holder. Try on dress to determine correct position of strap holder. Mark position with pins. Make a chain stitch. Using a double thread, fasten securely on shoulder seam closest to armhole. Make a loop by pulling needle through fabric. Hold thread with needle in left hand. Slip loop over thumb and first two fingers of right hand. With thumb and forefinger, pick'up needle thread; pull through first loop to form a new loop. Continue this process to form a chain long enough for slip strap to go through easily. To finish chain, slip needle through last loop and pull to make knot. (Illustrations for this can be found in many sewing books.) Sew a snap on end of chain, attaching chain in only one hole of the snap. Sew other half of snap to shoulder seam of dress. The strap holder should always open toward the neck. Fig 5. Fig. 2 fl':. ' NA inks I AWK. 3A.?.. '55 '3'" " 5M3 ; ;,.' u amen... y ig'm a; fr! v; f Fig. 3 The wide square neckline can also present some problems of staying in posi tion. Try this: Using featherboning, cut a strip 1 inch longer than the neck front edge. Cover featherboning in hemming tape of matching color. Sew into dress. Fig. 4. Now for the cutest innovation of all the zig-zag wire. Fig. 6. This wire can be used around necklines but it also can help you achieve that professional look at other places such as points of collars to keep them from turning up and flat bows to keep them flat and neat looking. Zigzag wire is available at most notion counters in several lengths. You can bend it, stretch it and twist it tighter. But once you have achieved the shape you want, it will stay that way. When using it on a garment, place it under the facing and hand stitch in place to the underlining. Fig. 6 Fig. 4.1 fl, fi'.4 *3._ W? V 2, '1. mff.4. M -. w, s. 4 : Sew on facing below neckline Zig zag wire

7 Fashionable closures come and go and then return again with modifications. Concealed buttons and buttonholes are often used on jackets, coats and dresses to give appearance of fluid unbroken lines.. Transfer buttonhole markings to the front facing using the bodice front as your guide. Interface the garment as usual. Make bound or machine worked buttonholes in the right front facing on the outside of the fabric. Then apply the facing in the usual manner. Fig. 2. When selecting buttons to use on garments with concealed openings, choose flat ones. One change must be made in cutting out the garment since there is no overlap on a loop closing, except for the loops themselves. There s only an underlap. On the side the loops will be attached, mark center front of pattern. Add 5/8 inch for seam toward edge. Cut garment and facing out. The loops are attached at the center front. To prepare the loops, stitch and turn a narrow strip of bias fabric. A secret in preparing this bias strip is to stretch and press it before sewing so that the stitches will not break when the bias strip is turned. Cut loops the length needed to slip over the buttons easily. Baste loops, evenly spaced, to a strip of tissue paper, keeping cut ends even. Hand baste paper, with attached loops, to outside of garment along the center front marking. Machine baste.. Join facing to garment. Tear paper away carefully. Finish facing in conventional manner. F. 1 lg Tissue paper. -.~..5 ;_a,:4.n 3 A",.I X (My :4» 4 Maggi «7v..,,.f M in": '2?. pm- 1 c..v,.'.v- f:»,. g, -.. i,.. rwfg "WC! ' 4 'w.. 3' ~;. *prr ~ 34,, "J s-e. ':$'.l : *r 'r I-y ya?" 5": 9'6,.. E Fig. 2 E E Bound buttonholes in right front facing Self-fabric or contrasting loops can make a smart closure down the front of garments or at the cuffs of long, full sleeves. Do you desire a designer s look that is quick and easy? Try this. This method will produce buttonholes in a seamline by leaving the seam unstitched where buttonholes are desired. Directions are given for bodice front but this type buttonhole may be used at center back or side openings. Cut out garment bodice front and facing as pattern indicates. After applying interfacings, stitch facing to bodice on

8 center front markings on the right side only, since this is the only side with buttonholes. Trim seam allowance leaving it from V4 inch to 5/3 inch wide, grading the seam allowance to make a flat appearance.. Open facing and seam, and press flat. Fig. 2. /_Trim away excess Center front stitching line l band is less than 5/8 inch, trim seam allowance. Slip-stitch band in place along inside seamline, leaving open at buttonhole locations. ;. At buttonhole openings, slip-stitch edges together. Your quick and easy slot buttonholes are now ready to use. Try it. You will like it. Pin band to right side of fabric and stitch Fig.3 Fig. 4 Press seam open and facing flat Fig. 2 Now to design the band that will be! applied and which will form the buttonholes. The band may be in the same fabric as the garment or in a contrasting fabric such as leather, suede, grosgrain or satin. The band may be designed in plaids or stripes cut on the bias or straight grain of the fabric. The width of the band will depend upon the size buttons you wish to use. Generally, the width of the band is from 1A1 inch wide to 3 inches wide finished. Cut band twice the finished width desired, plus 1% inches to allow for two 5/3 inch seam allowances. The length of the band will be the same length of the garment at seam sewed. To apply band, place right sides of fabric together matching seamline on band to center front seam of bodice. Mark the position of buttonhole openings. Stitch band to front bodice, leaving open where buttonholes will be. Fig. 3. Press band seam allowance toward band. Trim this seam allowance if band width is less than 5/3 inch wide. Press front facing to its permanent position on garment. Turn under raw edge of band 5/8 inch and press. If finished width of Slip-stitch band in place This same method can be adapted and used to apply a band to a ribbon trimmed sweater. When adapting to sweater, omit facings. Have you ever noticed how dresses that button down the front gap open when you sit down? You can quickly and easily prevent this from happening. Try this trick: Sew snaps between each button (

9 ( Sew snaps half way between each button. This holds front opening in perfect position.,mg3 Finished facing on garment This imaginative idea can be used when all of the following characteristics are found in a garment: the garment is sleeveless, the shoulder width is standard, there is a separate armhole facing pattern piece and the fabric tends toward being bulky. To avoid bulk buildup at underarm seam, move the facing underarm seam toward the back. This same technique can be used on sleeve facings when the fabric is bulky. To cut armhole facing, match and pin or tape together seamlines or armhole facing at underarm. Measure from seamline 1% inches toward back facing and draw a line at this point parallel with the original seamline or slightly slanted.. Cut pattern on pencil line. Add 5/8 inch seam allowance to each side of cut pattern. Fig. 2. Pattern is now ready to use. Finished facing is placed on garment, the seam will be toward back and you will have bucked the bulk at the underarm seam. Fig. 3. Almost Sleeveless Sleeve Sleeveless dresses are sometimes in vogue; at other times long sleeves or some other length of sleeve is the most fashionable. Ever heard of the almost sleeveless sleeve? This is a very, very short sleeve that gives you only a hint of arm cover. Cut around the top of sleeve using the sleeve pattern. Cut down the underarm seam of sleeve 1% inches. Then cut sleeve off straight across bottom. Cut lining for sleeve in same manner. Fig. 1A. (Note: In lightweight fabrics, you may wish to eliminate the seam across the bottom of the sleeve. The dress fabric and lining fabric would be of the same fabric. Cut down the underarm seam of sleeve 5/3 inch instead of 1% inches. Then turn pattern over at lower edge of sleeve and cut the identical shape again. Fig. IB. Join both the lining and the dress sleeve at underarm seam. Fig. 2. Press seams open. FmJA c Mark pattern piece and cut 1%", 1%" Fm} B H Fold 5/8 5/8" line Add 5/8 inch seam allowance

10 Fig. 2 Join lining to sleeve at lower edge of sleeve taking a true 5/8 inch seam allowance. Fig. 3. Trim seam allowance. Turn lining into sleeve and press.,. The sleeve is now ready to set into the dress in the usual manner. When sleeve is sewed into dress, take the usual 5/8 inch seam allowance. The seamline will come to the very edge of the sleeve at the underarm sleeve seam. Result: a short, short sleeve that just about covers the top of the arm. A worthwhile hint if your arms are large or not very attractive, do not use this style sleeve. Fig. 3 Dress fabric Lining fabric Pattern: Patterns for making camisoles are included with some patterns or you can make your own from a sheath dress pattern that features front and back bodice darts, is sleeveless and has a low scooped neckline. Fabric: Lightweight lining fabric is best. Cutting: No seam allowance is needed around neckline and armhole. Actually, it is best to make neckline and armholes about 1 inch deeper than usual socami sole top will not show when worn under dress top. Construction: Make same as dress top except just turn and stitch edges around armholes and neckline. Attach finished camisole to skirt as you would a one-piece dress. Zipper may be inserted underarm or down the back. Fig. 4 Stitching line when sleeve is sewed into dress. If you want a skirt that hangs beauti fully and forever straight, try a camisole top. An added feature is that it is comfortable to wear. The camisole top is used on skirts of two-piece dresses. Here s how it s done. Most skirts have at least a slight amount of flare. In order for the hemline to be finished professionally, this flare must be removed. Here s the easy way to remove a slight amount of flare. This technique can be applied when hemming tape is not being attached during the same sewing operation. This same skill can be used to remove a slight amount of fullness at other places such as necklines.

11 To contract the top of a hem, hold a forefinger just behind the presser foot as you sew the hem edge. While stitching, allow two or three inches of the edge to crowd itself between the presser foot and the finger. Stop. Lift the finger to release the amount held there. Then put the finger down again and continue sewing in the same manner. ri.;'::nugnt Work open I a a! It; 4"ii : fi? 151] :ti :1 F"' 3" : I : '.5... _I 5 Sometimes darts are stitched on the outside as part of the decorative design of the outfit. Or you may create a design in a thin fabric and not wish to have threads hanging out at the ends of darts or tucks. There is a way to sew these darts or tucks so that strings and knots can be eliminated. Here s how. Remove thread from top of sewing machine. Put bobbin thread in place and thread sewing machine backwards using the thread from the bobbin. Pull up about 15 to 20 inches of thread and wind it around an empty spool. You now have one continuous thread running from the bobbin up to the spool on top of the machine. You are now ready to sew. Be ginning at the point of the dart, stitch. The point of the dart made in this manner has no loose threads to tie. Rethread the sewing machine for each dart or tuck you sew. This type of dart can be used only on garments when a seam crosses the larger end of the dart. Perfect finishing details help you create fashionable looking garments. So for the ultimate in couturier sewing, hide that unsightly metal hook. To do this: Open weave of fabric with blunt end of needle.. In firmly woven fabrics, it may be necessary to make a very small slit with points of sharp scissors. Work the hook into the slit leaving only the bill end exposed. Fig. 2. Sew in place making stitches as invisible as possible. Fig. 3. Insert end of hook Slip hook underneath and sew Fig. 3 And this is the way the couturiers make the thread loops. Thread a needle with a short thread, preferably silk or buttonhole twist. Draw ends even forming a double thread and knot. Insert needle from wrong to right side of fabric at bottom of where loop is desired. Insert needle 1A1 inch above and bring out at first point of entry. Fig. 4. Wind thread closely but not too tightly, around point end of needle to a depth of 14 inch. Fig. 5. And now for the trick. Pull needle and thread through the thread wound around the needle. Draw tight. Fig. 6. Fasten thread by inserting needle back through fabric to wrong side and securmg. Fig. 4 (a,»

12 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 French piping is used as a finish on raw edges of hems, necklines, and facings. An adaptation of it may be used on openings where a facing is not desired. For the ultimate in beautiful detail work, try this: Cut bias strip 1% inches Wide and long enough to fit edge to which it will be applied. If being applied to woolens, cut bias strips from lightweight lining or underlining fabric such as silk organza. For use on silk and other lightweight or sheer fabrics, use self fabric. Fold bias in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press lightly with grain of fabric. Match raw edge of bias strip to raw edge on outside of garment being finished. Stitch 1A; inch from raw edge. Trim to 1/3 inch.. (Notice that only a V4 inch seam allowance is taken. If pattern has allowed more, trim seam allowance to 1/1 inch before applying piping.) Turn bias strip over raw edge to inside of fabric. Machine stitch in the welt of bias strip. Fig. 2. Use matching thread and stitches will not Show in finished product. A flat chain, designed expressly for use in clothing, helps jackets have the hang of perfection. The chain is placed 1/8 inch above the lower edge of the jacket and usually extends from front facing to front facing. Lightweight chains are used on cotton and linen jackets; medium weight on lightweight woolens; heavier chains for bulky fabrics. The chain should be removed when the jacket is drycleaned. Sew chain in by hand catching every other chain. The clear transparent monofilament nylon thread is good to use. Outside of fabric Trim to 1/3 inch Inside of fabric Facing Sew chain in alternate links to lower edge of jacket Fig. 3 Some professional seamstresses like to reverse the stitching process stated above. Sew bias strip to inside of garment first; then turn and machine stitch or hand slip stitch on right side. This method requires complete accuracy in all measurements. The finished product is shown in Fig. 4.

13 Fig. 4 Match the two crosswise grainline edges to form a tube, slipping the fabric down so that the cut raw edge matches the first marked line. ;. Stitch seam. Press open. Fig. 4 Need a lot of bias strips? Then here s how to make it by the yards and yards. In fact from one yard of 36 inch wide fabric, you can make about 24 yards of 1/2 inch bias strips. And now for the bias strips by the yards. Cut fabric on marked lines making one long continuous strip. Fig. 5. Cut a square of fabric. Fold fabric to form 2 triangles and mark accurately on wrong side the center bias fold.. With yardstick, mark on each side of the center fold line rows of bias strips the desired width. Fig. 2. Cut on center bias fold line to separate the two equal triangular sections. Place right sides of fabric together, along lengthwise grainline edges. Match marked lines. Stitch. Fig. 3. Press seam open. :> I (\g ~.. ) 9: ( W 3 X as» 41% Cut here ) /// Fig. 3 I I l / l i Fig. 2 l Crosswise graini There is a fail proof way to apply bias binding to garments. Achieve the look of perfection. Try this method. Around areas where bias binding is to be applied, place facings on garment matching wrong sides of fabric together. Stitch facing on garment on seamline. Trim away the seam allowance. Then stitch Va inch and 3/3 inch inside seamline to hold grainline and give body.. Wrong side A Trim Three rows of stitching Cut bias strip 11/2 inches wide and the desired length. Pin bias on garment matching cut edges, right sides of fabric together, and stretching bias strip a bit so it will fit edge over which it will roll. Stitch. Fig. 2.

14 x x s I 1'\ exactly the same except point W is on one side of the loop and point Y is on the other side. Remove bulk from corner of bias strip by clipping in seam allowance to points W and Y and then cutting diagonally to the center of the folded edge of the loop. Fig. 2. Turn loop in bias binding over seam allowance of garment so that it lays as it will when finished. F 91d bias strip over to wrong side 0f Establish fold line of corner. Fig. 3. fabric: Turn in edge. Hem by hand along Press. Turn bias strip to wrong side and StltChmg.011. wrong Slde; Fig. 3. Thls machine stitch on press mark. Fig. 4. forms a fimshed bias binding 3/8 mch Trim seam allowance to 1/8 inch. Turn wide. back over garment seam allowance and Fold bias slip-stitch in place on wrong side of strip over;, garment. hem by hand,- Stitching line. Wrong side starting at Y Fig. 3 Outer edge is on other side of garment of loop On jackets or dresses with collars joining lapels, miter corners and turn in ends of binding where collar and lapel V join. Fig. 4. Fig. 4 Miter. corners Fig.2 Turn in ends of binding on garments where collar and lapel join. Clip and remove corner of binding Turn and finger press in fold line 9,, g.. ' 4. g. x There are two methods of mitering corners. One method is used when ap-. plying a bias binding by the method previously described. To miter outward corners, extend the bias strip in a loop,, so that the strip can be turned back and mitered to fit the corner. Stitch from V to W (the exact point of the cor- ner) and backstitch. Remove garment Machine from sewing machine. Start at Y (the stitch exact point of the corner on the other on press a. 3"1...? h. side of the loop) and continue stitching mark : } i) x 1 ~ on the bias binding. Points W and Y are x. :37 x g ' " u i V ) 3

15 This method of mitering a corner can be used when applying any kind of decorative band to a garment with a finished edge. Fig. 5 Top-stitch along finished edge on outside of fabric. Sew a slight curve to make a pro fessional looking corner point. You can achieve this Fig. 6 Fold back upon itself and press fold. instead of this bulgy look. Fig. 7 Fold again toward edge to which it will be applied. Press. Instead of stitching to a sharp point at the corner of the. collars, pocket flaps or a lapel, round the stitches like this Fig. 8 Stitch along diagonal crease underneath. or take one or two small diagonal stitches like this. Cutbulkout - of corners. Fig. 9 Continue to apply trim, top stitchin g both edges in place. Insert finger into the corner.

16 I Turn down seam allowances at corner as shown. Hold seam allowances firm and turn corner to right side. _ Leave 2 inch opening ""- "' Fig.2 Press on point presser. 3 " y ;_ Stitch lining to outer fabric Turn pocket through 2 inch opening left in seam shown in Fig. 2. Slip-stitch opening closed. Fig. 4. Fig. 4 Invisibly attached is this perfect patch pocket. It is for decorative use on your finer sport clothes and dressier clothes. Just between you and me, pockets on better clothes are really not meant to be used for carrying items or placing hands in them. Cut pocket by the pattern allowing 2 inch hem at top. Cut interfacing to stop at hemline. Cut a lining 4 inches shorter than the pocket. Secure interfacing to wrong side of pocket allowing it to come just to the hemline.. Place right sides of lining and outer fabric together at top of pocket and machine stitch taking a 5A; inch seam allowance and leaving seam open 2 inches at center to turn. Fig. 2. Fold pocket on hemline so that the right side of lining fabric is against the right side of the outer fabric. Sew lining and outer fabrics together on two sides and bottom of pocket. Trim seams; cut out corners. Fig , Sl ip-stitch together Pin pocket into position marked on the garment. Baste. Fig. 5. Working now from the inside of the garment, apply by hand stitching the pocket to the garment so that no stitches show on right side of fabric. Use a small back stitch. Fig. 6. Fig. 5 Pin and baste pocket to dress. Wrong side of pocket fabric Interfacing i Hand stitching : on wrong side of fabric.

17 _ _.! _,m ymw -_ _1n su A waistband 3%: inch wide finished is a figure flattering width. Try this method of cutting and stitching for the easy-does-it waistband application. To cut: Cut waistband 21/8 inches wide and the length of skirt waist plus 2% inches. Cut on lengthwise grain using the selvage of the fabric. Underline waistband, if necessary. To prepare: Fold waistband lengthwise with right sides of fabric together. Fold so selvage is 5/8 inch from cut edge.. Sew ends taking a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Trim seam allowance. Turn and press. To apply to skirt: Place raw edge of waistband to top of skirt. Sew taking a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Fig. 2. The 1 inch extra fabric in the length of the waistband forms the underlap on left back edge. Do not trim seam allowances on lightweight skirt fabrics; trim one seam allowance on medium and heavier weight skirt fabrics. The seam allowance acts as the interfacing and helps hold the band in upright position. Turn waistband over seam allowance, and place selvage just covering the stitching line inside. Baste in place. Fig. 3. From the right side, machine stitch along waistband seam catching the sel vage underneath. The zipper presser foot may be used on heavier weight fabrics. Force waistband back as you stitch so that you do not catch it. Top-stitchin g will be practically invisible when garment is worn. Fig. 4. Note: For a smooth fitting, figure flattering skirt, ease skirt on to waistband. Inside W Where seams and pleats meet, the problem is to get the seam to lay flat. Many of our garments now feature hard pressed or soft rolled pleats. Here s how to do this: Trim hem to even width. Turn up hem. Clip seam allowance at top of pleat. Trim seam allowance in hem portion to % inch and press open.. Finish hemming to skirt. Fig. 2. Selvage

18 Fig. 2 To do the sewing machine lockstitch leave needle in the fabric at the end of the stitching line. Raise the presser bar very slightly. Holding the fabric very securely so it will not move, take several stitches right over the last stitch. Instant magic locked stitches. You can give an important custom look to many garments by adding topstitching. Silk buttonhole twist is the best thread to use but two strands of silk or other type thread can also be used effectively. Thread sewing machine with the-two strands of thread as if they were one strand. When using silk buttonhole twist, use as top thread on your machine. If stitching will show on underside, use buttonhole twist in the bobbin as well. To simulate saddle stitching, set machine for 6 to 8 stitches per inch. If fabric has a tendency to pucker or shift, stitch over tissue paper. Tear paper away when completed. Where stitching begins and ends, leave threads long enough to be inserted by a needle into fabric and fastened. Top-stitch garment from the right side whenever possible. In order for top-stitching to be beautiful, it must be straight. To insure straight stitching, use one of the follow ing methods. (1) For edge top-stitching, use the distance marker on your sewing machine. (2) Sharpen tailor s chalk to a fine point. Measure and mark a continuous line where stitching will be. (3) For internal top-stitching, use a machine quilter foot. (4) For curved or decorative lines, trace design on brown paper. Cut out design. Pin or haste to garment. Stitch against the edge of paper. Ever tried securing thread on the sewing machine? This is the quick and easy way the skilled seamstresses do it. Practice several times, and you too can perfect this technique. On most fabrics, unless the fibers have been broken, thread markings can be removed. Try this: With a very damp cloth, lightly moisten area of fabric where stitch markings are to be removed. Using both hands, gently pull the fabric on the bias. Keep working with the fabric pulling it on the bias until fibers return to their original position. Set fibers into place by pressing using a damp steam cloth. Cutting and stitching slippery fabrics brings many expert home seamstresses to the hair pulling stage. But with this special tip, you will be able to be the master over the fabric. Press fabric. Clip selvage. With a warm iron, press enough tissue paper to back the fabric. Pin tissue paper to wrong side of fabric. You will now work with the tissue paper and fabric as one. Lay pattern and cut. For garments not double fabric constructed, transfer pattern markings to paper with tailor s carbon paper or transfer pattern markings to fabric and paper with tailor s tacks. Remove pattern pieces. With matching thread and a fine machine needle, staystitch all seamlines and

19 darts. After all staystitching has been completed, tear paper away. The staystitching will now help control the fabric for you. Sometimes these slippery fabrics will not move over the feed dog easily. If this happens, slip a piece of tissue paper between machine feed dog and fabric. It may be necessary to do some stitching of seams and other work by hand. The hand sewing stitch to use is a small full back stitch. Did you know that many of the couturier garments are completely constructed by hand sewing? In many cases, this insures greater accuracy. And now just one final tip: A hand-rolled hem is usually used on chiffon, marquisettes, and other soft sheers. To do this, cut the length one inch longer than it has been marked. Accurately machine stitch one-half inch above the cut edge. Trim away the raw edge right at the stitching line. Hold the fabric with wrong side up. Moisten the fingers of the hand which will do the rolling. With the thumb and forefinger, roll fabric until machine stitching has been rolled into the hem and is completely out of sight. Take small stitches in the rolled hem making the stitches about 5/8 inch apart. Roll and hem one inch of fabric. Then pull stitches taut so that the hem rolls a little more and most of the hemming stitches will be hidden. This type of hem will show the stitches on the outside of the fabric but this is part of its appearance. Stitches in garment before pulling taut Prepared by: Dorothy L Barrier, Extension Clothing Specialist Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh, North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University at Greensboro, and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. State University Station, Raleigh, N. C., T. C. Blalock, Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, The North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service otters its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, or national origin, and is an equal opportunity employer M (Reprint) Home Economics 119 L)