BUILD YOUR OWN. Pack 02

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1 BUILD YOUR OWN TM Pack 02 17

Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road,

2 CONTENTS Assembly Guide 19 Stage 5: The headlight case Stage 6: The left fork Stage 7: The right fork Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, North Road, London N7 9DP. Published in the UK by De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE. Published in the USA by De Agostini Publishing USA, Inc., 915 Broadway, Suite 609, New York, NY All rights reserved 2014 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown. TM

Stage 5 The headlight case Your parts Headlight case and fork cover

cover and push the wire into the groove along the indicator mount.

covers, which are shaped so that the ends can only fit in when they

3 Stage 5 The headlight case Your parts Headlight case and fork cover assembly 1 The indicators are attached to the headlight case and fork cover assembly by wires. To fit the left indicator, first hold the assembly by the left cover and push the wire into the groove along the indicator mount. 2 3 The ends of the indicator mounts fit into the holes in the fork covers, which are shaped so that the ends can only fit in when they are the right way round. Align the end of the indicator mount with the hole in the cover and push it into place. 19

4 5 Now push the wire into the groove along

4 4 5 Now push the wire into the groove along the right indicator mount. 6 As with the left indicator (shown here), align the end of the right indicator with the hole in the fork cover. Stage complete Push the end of the right indicator mount into the hole in the fork cover. 20

5 Tools Your CB750 model is designed to be assembled using tweezers, Phillips screwdrivers and pliers. Those are the minimum tools that you will need, but if you want to be better prepared and have an easier time assembling your model, we recommend that you equip yourself with the set of tools shown below Phillips screwdrivers (thick grips) Precision screwdriver set (thin grips) Tweezers Knife Instant adhesive Pliers Cutters Tap wrench & taps (2mm/2.3mm) Metal file set

Instant adhesive drivers and screws Instant adhesive is very useful if you need to repair any parts that have been damaged.

to try and find one that is a low whitening type. During this series, the most frequently used screwdriver is the size 1 Phillips.

make it impossible to tighten or remove.

To make such tasks easier in the future, you can use a tap wrench and taps to prepare the holes for the screws.

Precision screwdriver sets often have a label showing the size of each driver.

different situations. Machine screw (often referred to as just a screw ) A tap wrench and two medium taps.

Self-tapping screw Identify the correct size tap for the hole: it should match the diameter of the screw.

The pitch (space between the threads) is narrow and the angle is slight.

The tap will screw itself into the hole, cutting a thread as it goes. Make sure you keep the tap straight as you turn it in.

6 Instant adhesive drivers and screws Instant adhesive is very useful if you need to repair any parts that have been damaged. Standard superglue or instant adhesive is prone to drying slightly white, which can spoil the appearance of your model, so it is best to try and find one that is a low whitening type. During this series, the most frequently used screwdriver is the size 1 Phillips. Always try to use the correct size of screwdriver, as using a larger or a smaller one can damage the head of the screw, and possibly make it impossible to tighten or remove. Tap wrench In Stage 4, you were advised to cut a thread in the handlebar clamps using the screws supplied. To make such tasks easier in the future, you can use a tap wrench and taps to prepare the holes for the screws. For example, the type A screws used in Stage 4 are 2 x 6mm, so you would choose a 2mm tap to prepare the hole. Precision screwdriver sets often have a label showing the size of each driver. It s a good idea to have drivers of the same size but with different grips, like the pairs shown above, as they can be helpful for different situations. Machine screw (often referred to as just a screw ) A tap wrench and two medium taps. These are dedicated tools for cutting threads in screw holes. Self-tapping screw Identify the correct size tap for the hole: it should match the diameter of the screw. Insert the tap into the hole in the wrench and tighten it into place. The pitch (space between the threads) is narrow and the angle is slight. Insert the end of the tap into the hole you want to thread and slowly turn the wrench. The tap will screw itself into the hole, cutting a thread as it goes. Make sure you keep the tap straight as you turn it in. 22 The thread cut into one of the handlebar clamps using a tap and wrench, ready for a screw to be fitted. To check if a screwdriver is the right size for a screw, insert it into the head and gently turn it to the left and right. If the driver is the wrong size for the screw, it either won t fit into it or it will fit very loosely. If so, try again with different size drivers until you find one that fits correctly. The pitch is wider and the angle is steeper. There are two types of screw used in this series the machine screw, which will generally be referred to as just a screw, and the self-tapping screw. The machine screw is used for metal parts and the selftapping screw for plastic parts.

Stage 6 The left fork 1 2 Cut a neat hole in the bag of

Your parts Left fork assembly Left fork boot Left fork

Prepare Phillips screwdriver (size 1) Toothpick or

assembly (Stage 5) 3 Push grease into the hole in the

7 Stage 6 The left fork 1 2 Cut a neat hole in the bag of grease, and squeeze a small amount of it onto the end of a toothpick. Apply grease around the seal (the black plastic ring). Your parts Left fork assembly Left fork boot Left fork rib s (type E) 2 Left fork bolt head Grease Tools Prepare Phillips screwdriver (size 1) Toothpick or similar Top yoke assembly (Stage 4) Headlight case assembly (Stage 5) 3 Push grease into the hole in the fork tube, as shown. Reseal the bag of grease by taping the hole up, and place it in another bag in case it leaks. 23

4 6 5 Hold the fork case (left) and push the

This will spread the grease around inside the

Place the left fork rib over the tube, with the

Place the left fork boot over the tube and

It should sit on the step just below it.

side of the rib into the end of the boot.

8 4 6 5 Hold the fork case (left) and push the tube (right) in and out. This will spread the grease around inside the assembly. Place the left fork rib over the tube, with the smaller side facing the boot. Place the left fork boot over the tube and slide it over the seal. It should sit on the step just below it. 7 8 Flat side facing out Insert the smaller side of the rib into the end of the boot. 24 Take the headlight case assembly from the previous stage, and turn the left fork so that the flat side at the top is facing towards you, away from the headlight case.

9 10 Insert the end of the left fork into the left fork cover.

When viewed from above, the top of the fork should appear as

circular recesses on the underside (circled, right).

9 9 10 Insert the end of the left fork into the left fork cover. It is best to hold the fork by the case, rather than by the boot. When viewed from above, the top of the fork should appear as shown, with the D-shaped end in the correspondingly shaped hole in the fork cover Take the top yoke assembly from Stage 4, and locate the two circular recesses on the underside (circled, right). These will be placed over the tops of the fork covers (also circled, at the heads of the arrows). Fit the circular recesses on the underside of the top yoke onto the tops of the fork covers. Make sure that the wires are all out of the way, and pointing backwards. 25

13 15 14 Place a type E screw into the hole in

10 Place a type E screw into the hole in the top yoke, which should be directly above the hole in the fork cover. Tighten the screw until the head sits flush against the surface of the yoke. You may find it easier to thread the hole first, using a tap and tap wrench. 16 Push the bolt head fully into the hole in the top yoke. 26 Stage complete When the screw is fully tightened into the hole, line up the left fork bolt head with the larger hole in the yoke.

Stage 7 The right fork Your parts Right fork assembly Right

Tappet caps 4 1 Take the grease from the previous stage and

2 3 Apply grease around the seal where the fork tube enters

Tools Prepare Phillips screwdriver (size 1) Toothpick or

yoke assembly (Stage 6) Cylinder head cover (Stage 2) Push

11 Stage 7 The right fork Your parts Right fork assembly Right fork bolt head s (type E) 2 Right fork rib Right fork boot Tappet caps 4 1 Take the grease from the previous stage and squeeze some onto the end of a toothpick. 2 3 Apply grease around the seal where the fork tube enters the fork case. Tools Prepare Phillips screwdriver (size 1) Toothpick or similar Grease (Stage 6) Headlight case, left fork and top yoke assembly (Stage 6) Cylinder head cover (Stage 2) Push grease into the hole that goes through the fork tube, as shown. When you have finished applying the grease, store it away again, as before. 27

6 4 5 Hold the right fork by the fork case

This will spread the grease around inside

7 Place the right fork rib over the tube,

Place the right fork boot over the tube,

10 9 Take the headlight case, left fork and

Turn the right fork so that the flat side

12 6 4 5 Hold the right fork by the fork case and push the tube in and out. This will spread the grease around inside the assembly. 7 Place the right fork rib over the tube, with the smaller side facing the boot. Place the right fork boot over the tube, and slide it over the seal and onto the step below it. 8 Insert the rib into the end of the boot Take the headlight case, left fork and top yoke assembly from the previous stage. Turn the right fork so that the flat side at the top is facing away from the headlight case. 28 Insert the end of the right fork into the right fork cover until it clicks into position in the top of the cover. You may need to rotate it to get the ends to align.

11 12 Place a type E screw into the hole in

You may prefer to thread the hole with a tap

Tighten the screw into the hole, until it is

13 14 When the screw is fully tightened into

13 11 12 Place a type E screw into the hole in the top yoke. You may prefer to thread the hole with a tap and wrench before you do this. Tighten the screw into the hole, until it is flush against the yoke When the screw is fully tightened into the hole, line up the right fork bolt head with the larger hole in the yoke. Push the bolt head fully into place. 29

14 Push the tappet cap into the hole, until it is flat against the head cover. Fetch the cylinder head cover assembly from Stage 2. Hold one of the tappet caps above the hole at the end of the head cover. Make sure the higher side of the breather cover is facing towards you. 18 Insert the remaining three tappet caps into the remaining three holes in that side of the cylinder head cover. 30 Stage complete

Countersunk and pan s Several sizes and types of screw are used in this series. They can look very similar, so you will need to identify them carefully by referring to the table, below right.

s have different-shaped heads, as well as different type of thread. The photo below left shows a countersunk screw, on the left, and a pan-head screw, on the right.

These screw heads are quite often hidden from view because they are flush or sunken.

This is an example of where a countersunk screw is used. Machine screws and self-tapping screws The differences between machine screws and self-tapping screws were mentioned briefly in Stage 5.

15 Countersunk and pan s Several sizes and types of screw are used in this series. They can look very similar, so you will need to identify them carefully by referring to the table, below right. It is best to keep screws of the same type together in a labelled plastic bag or other suitable container, to make it easy to find them and stop them getting mixed up with other types of screw. s have different-shaped heads, as well as different type of thread. The photo below left shows a countersunk screw, on the left, and a pan-head screw, on the right. Countersunk screws are used when the top of the screw needs to be flush with or sunk below the surface of the part it is securing (below right), creating a stronger hold. These screw heads are quite often hidden from view because they are flush or sunken. -head screws are used when parts are too thin for a countersunk screw, or when a visible head adds authenticity to the appearance of the model. A countersunk screw (left) and a pan-head screw (right). This is an example of where a countersunk screw is used. Machine screws and self-tapping screws The differences between machine screws and self-tapping screws were mentioned briefly in Stage 5. The main difference is the spacing of the threads: with a machine screw, there are more than on a self-tapping screw and they are closer together, creating a stronger hold between the screw and the part that it is screwed into. The self-tapping screw has to cut the internal thread in the hole it s going into, which is why its threads are spaced further apart and at a greater angle. In this series, they are used to fix plastic parts. list A machine screw (on the left) and a self-tapping screw (on the right). Because the instrument housing is made of ABS plastic, a self-tapping screw was used to secure it. The top yoke is a die-cast part, so a machine screw was used to hold it in place. Type Kind Head shape Size (W H) Colour A 2 6mm B C Hexagonal Silver D E 2.3 6mm F Hexagonal Silver G Self-tapping screw H Dish I Self-tapping screw J Self-tapping screw 2.3 6mm K Cap (hex) 2 3mm Silver L Hexagonal 2 3mm Silver M Silver N 2 6mm Silver O Self-tapping screw Silver P Dish Q Hexagonal Silver 31

16 Honda CB750 FOUR: TM 32

BUILD YOUR OWN. Pack 22

BUILD YOUR OWN. Pack 22 BUILD YOUR OWN TM Pack 22 01 CONTENTS Assembly Guide 339 Stage 70: The front brake lever Stage 71: The oil hose and the twistgrip Stage 72: Fitting the front fork assembly Editorial and design by Continuo