Stage 2: Preparing the door (read in conjunction with Hole Drilling Options on back of Template).

Transcription

1 There are three stages to fitting the CL100 mortise case: Stage 1: Marking out the position of the lock. Stage 2: Preparing the door by mortising and drilling holes. Stage 3: Fitting lock, door furniture, cylinder, striker, etc. Stage 1: Marking out the position of the lock (use a sharp nail to mark hole centers). A: Mark the chosen height of the lock on the face of the door. The height is normally measured to the center of the square spindle (Hole 1) or if a CL100 which does not require a square spindle is to be fitted (e.g. Slamshut), the height should be taken to the center of the top Europrofile cylinder hole (Hole 6)(Diagram A). B: Mark the Height Line 2-13/32 (61mm) above Hole 1 or 4-15/16 (125mm) above Hole 6 on to the edge and face of the door (Diagram A). C: Mark a vertical Center Line onto the edge of the door as shown (Diagram A). D: Hold the Drilling Template onto the edge of the door aligning the top edge of the Template with the Height Line, and the arrows on the Template with the Center Line. Mark the hole centers for the 6 x 3/4 (19mm) diameter holes (Holes 8 to 13) and the two screw holes (Holes 14 & 15) (Diagram A). E: Fold the Template as shown and wrap it around the door edge and face with the top of the Template level with the Height Line. Mark out the holes as determined by Hole Drilling Options on the back of the Template (Diagram B). Stage 2: Preparing the door (read in conjunction with Hole Drilling Options on back of Template). A: Using a 3/4 (19mm) diameter drill bit, drill Holes 8 to 13 to a depth of 3-1/16 (77mm) (use a felt tip pen or tape to mark hole depth on the drill bit). Make sure the drilled holes are straight and level. Chisel out the remaining wood between the holes as indicated by the shaded area on the Template and clean out the hole. Note: Maximum slot length not to exceed 5-9/32 (134mm). B: Remove the faceplate and fit the lockcase into the mortised hole. Temporarily screw the lock into place using woodscrews through the two pre-drilled holes (Holes 14 & 15). Make sure the inner forend lies parallel with the edge of the door. Mark around the inner forend then remove the lock. Router out to a depth of 9/32 (7mm) (Diagram C). Important: This recess to take the front section of the lock must be routered out flat and even. Failure to do so may cause long term damage to the lock. C: Drill the cross holes (e.g. spindle) as previously marked. D: Chisel out the remaining wood to form the oval shape slot between Holes 6 & 7. IMPORTANT: THE CL100 IS NOT A DOOR STOP. STAGE 3: Fitting Lock (LaviLock Only) A: Fit the lock into the mortise and screw into place using the #10 countersunk screws supplied. B: Refit the faceplate. C: Cut the 5/32 (4mm) diameter x 2 (50mm) long locking pin to the same length as the door thickness, de-burr the end and slide it into the 5/32 (4mm) hole in the lock plate (Diagram D). Stage 3 continued overleaf A hinged door is stopped in the correct closed position by the door stop, NOT the lock. The same applies to a sliding door. If the door s momentum is not stopped by a closing jamb or an independent stop, long term damage may be done to the lock. To avoid this, make sure that the door hits the jamb or stop at the same time that the striker bottoms out on the faceplate of the lock.

2 Now, fit either, Option A: Locking button inside, emergency release button outside. Option B: Locking buttons inside and outside. FITTING INSTRUCTIONS for the Do not forget to put the 5/32 (4mm) diameter spring(s) into the locking button(s). Note: Option A is the normal configuration, however Option B can be used where Quick Emergency access is required to a room, e.g. a toilet in a rest home. Mortise Case D: Place the indicator plates one each side of the door, over the buttons as shown (the unlock / lock indicator plate goes to the inside of the room). E: While holding the indicator plates in place, slide the 5/16 (7.62mm) square spindles into the lock. Fit the chosen lever handles (you may need to cut the spindle and screws to length first). Check that the handing of the handles is the correct way around and only tighten the screws enough to hold the handles and indicator plates onto the door. F: Test the lock for the following: a) That the handles move freely. b) That the latch returns to the latched position once the handles are let go. c) That the locking button(s) move up and down freely without jamming. d) That the indicator plates are parallel with the edge of the door. G: When the testing is complete, fully tighten the screws holding the lever handles, and follow instructions for LaviLock Only under Hole Drilling Options on back of Template. H: Slide the door closed and transfer the height line from the door onto the closing jamb. Cut out the Template where marked and align the top of it with the height line. Mark the top screw hole, making sure that it is in the centre of the closing jamb (use the centre line that is marked on the Template). Fit the striker using the top screw only. Close the door slowly to check that the striker lines up with the lock, adjust if necessary then fit the bottom screw. On timber jambs you may mortise the back of the striker into the closing jamb to a depth of 1/8 (3mm) (Diagram E). STAGE 3: Fitting Lock (Case Only) A: Fit the lock into the mortise and screw in place using the #10 countersunk screws supplied. B: Slide the 5/16 (7.62mm) square spindle into the lock (if required) and fit the chosen handles (you may need to cut the spindle and screws to length first). C: Slide the Europrofile cylinder (if required) into the hole until the tapped hole in the cylinder lines up with the corresponding hole in the lock case. Fix the cylinder into place with the cap screw supplied (access to the hole is through the long slot in the inner forend). Tighten the cap screw firmly and then fit faceplate to forend. D: Test the lock for the following: a) That the handles move freely. b) That the latch returns to the latched position once the handles are let go. E: Fit the escutcheons around the cylinder. F: Slide the door closed and transfer the height line from the door onto the closing jamb. Cut out the template where marked and align the top of it with the height line. Ensure the striker is facing right way up with the slotted screw hole to the top (Diagram F). Mark the top screw hole, making sure that it is in the centre of the closing jamb (use the centre line that is marked on the Template). Fit the striker using the top screw only, close the door slowly to check that the striker lines up with the lock, adjust if necessary then fit the bottom screw. On timber jambs you may mortise the back of the striker into the closing jamb to a depth of 1/8 (3mm). All copyright and other property in this document is reserved by Cavity Sliders Limited. Details and specifications are subject to change without notice. Whilst all care is taken to ensure the accuracy of all information, no responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions. CS CAVILOCK (O.D. 1994) and extra notes for furniture Please read instructions carefully before starting

3 HEIGHT LINE /32 (61mm) 5-9/32 (134mm) FOLD HERE AND PLACE ON CORNER OF DOOR 51mm 2-1/32 centers (51mm) 1-15/32 (37mm) 1-9/16 (39mm)1-23/32 (43mm) 1-7/8 (47mm) 1-3/16 (55mm) DRILLING TEMPLATE FOR CL100 MORTISE AND LAVILOCK /16 (125mm) CUT ALONG THIS LINE CENTER OF TOP STRIKER HOLE (SEE OVER)

4 HOLE DRILLING OPTIONS NOTE Please read the following OPTIONS before drilling any holes or marking out hole centers. For configurations having door furniture or cylinders on one side only, the holes should be drilled from the same side as the proposed furniture or cylinders to the center of the door thickness. DO NOT drill right through the door unless the proposed furniture or cylinder is double sided. The fixing position (vertical or 45 angle) and hole centers for lever handles etc. is dependent upon the type and brand of handle being fitted. LaviLocks require all specified holes to be drilled right through the door. HOLE 1 Option A 13/16 (20mm) diameter hole to accept a 5/16 (7.62mm) square spindle as used with lever handles, turn knobs and digital locks (drill for LaviLock). Option B 2-9/16 (65mm) diameter hole to accept the CL100 flush turns. Option C Do not drill any hole (latching function not required). HOLE 2 & 3: (Vertical Fixing) and 4 & 5 (45 Angle Fixing) Option A 2 x 7/32 (5mm) diameter vertical fixing holes at the correct hole centers to suit the door furniture to be fitted (drill for LaviLock). Option B 2 x 7/32 (5mm) diameter 45 fixing holes at 2-1/32 (51 mm) hole centers (drill for LaviLock). Option C Do not drill any holes (latching function not required). Option D A single hole (Hole 2) at the correct center distance from the spindle hole to accept a digital key pad. NOTE: A second hole may be necessary to fit this lock. HOLES 6 & 7: Option A 2 x 13/16 (20mm) diameter holes to accept a Europrofile cylinder or the locking and emergency release buttons of the LaviLock (drill for LaviLock). Option B Do not drill any hole (locking function not required). HOLES 8 to 13: Drill 7 x 3/4 (19mm) diameter holes to a depth of 3-1/16 (77mm). HOLES 14 & 15: Drill 2 x 1/8 (2.5mm) diameter holes to a depth of 1 (25mm). HOLE 16: Drill 1 x 1/8 (2.5mm) diameter hole to a depth of 1 (25mm) (screw pilot hole for top striker into closing jamb). LAVILOCK ONLY: HOLES 17 to 20: These 4 x 1/8 (2.5mm) holes should be spotted through the countersunk holes in the indicator plates (4 holes on each side) once the lock, handles, locking buttons and indicator plates are fitted, all screws tightened and the action of the lock checked. NOTE: Holes not shown on Template.

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12 All copyright and other property in this document is reserved by Cavity Sliders USA Inc. Details and specifications are subject to change without notice. Whilst all care is taken to ensure the accuracy of all information, no responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions. Patent Pending Preparing Doors for CS Pocket Track These instructions cover the preparation of doors to be fitted into a pocket that has the CS Pocket Door Track fitted. Read through the notes carefully before beginning as different mounting plate positions and setups may be required for different configurations. Preparing Doors for CS Pocket Track 1 Contamination of the top track. Never drill, nail or screw through the center section of the track. Make sure no dirt, grit or aluminum swarf gets into the track. This could impair the smooth running of the carriages. 2 Preparing the doors. Drill two holes in the positions as marked (drawing V1 or V2). Screw both mounting plates to the door. Make sure they are placed exactly in the center of the door thickness. At the bottom of the door leaf, cut a groove to the dimension and tolerance shown. Make it central of the door thickness and absolutely straight. Prime/paint the top holes and inside the groove on the bottom. 3 For Bi-Parting (Double) doors (drawing V2). Fit the black plastic stop to the lead mounting plate only. 4 T-Guide (drawing W) Fix the T-Guide to the floor so that it is not visible when the door is in the pocket. The front edge of the T-Guide should sit flush with the final casings. 5 Hanging the doors (drawing X & Z, page 2). If the pocket frame has been supplied with head jambs fitted, remove the jamb from one side to allow access to carriages for mounting and vertical height adjustment (drawing Z). When adjusting door height, the wrench should be horizontal to the nut (drawing Z). Refix head jamb once door has been mounted and desired door clearance is achieved. Insert the carriages into the track through the notched end, taking care not to damage the wheels on the sharp edge of the track. Position the carriages in the pocket opening approximately where the mounting plates on the door will be located when the door is in the closed position. Slide the door over the T Guide and into the pocket. Align the mounting plates with the hanger bolts of the carriages. Offer the mounting plate up onto the hanger bolt by lifting the door (you may need someone to help you or use a lever at the base of the door). The head of the hanger bolt should mate with the plunger and sink 1/8 before you can slide the bolt across and lock into place. The plunger should pop back up once it is correctly located. Adjust door(s) for plumb and desired under door clearance (drawing Z). Go to page 2 (overleaf) 1 PREPARING DOORS - SINGLE See point 2. Single Doors Fit the 6 screws as shown Curved release pin 85mm (3-3/8 ) to center of the boss hole Drill ø25mm (1 ) 13mm (1/2 ) deep 2 PREPARING DOORS - BI-PARTING (DOUBLE) or MOUNT PLATE with STOP Black plastic stop See point mm (6 ) to center of the boss hole Face of door leaf 20-21mm (13/16 ) 5-5.5mm (7/32 ) 1 85mm (3-3/8 ) SUGGESTED T-GUIDE PLACEMENT See point 4. Pocket framing T-Guide Fit screws as shown. Use extra screws where required for heavy doors. Curved release pin Drill ø25mm (1 ) 13mm (1/2 ) deep Casings T-Guide Door PAGE 85mm (3-3/8 ) to center

13 6 For Double (Bi-Parting) doors (drawing Y). Slide the track stop into the track (via the carriage removal notch) and loosely tighten so that the track stop is still able to slide. Use the door to push the track stop to where you want the door to stop. Slide the door away and tighten the track stops using an Allen key. 7 Adjusting the door heights (drawing Z). Use the small end of the wrench supplied to rotate the hexagonal nut at the bottom of the carriage hanger shaft. To raise door: Rotate wrench from left to right. To lower door: Rotate wrench from right to left. Note: The hanger shaft fits at the top into a self locking nut. If you lower the hexagonal nut too far, the shaft will become loose from the self locking nut. So: if the turning resistance suddenly feels much easier, you have gone too far. If you raise the door to the maximum height position, the threaded bolt may contact fixing screw heads. If required, remove hanger bolt from wheel and remove 2-3mm of thread. 8 Removing the door leaves (drawing Z). Using the spanner supplied, slide the extended end down the threaded part of the hanger shaft of the carriage. Fit it over the hexagonal nut at the bottom. Now, (with the extended part of the spanner) press down the curved release pin that points up from the mounting plate. Once this pin is fully depressed, you can slide the spanner sideways in the direction of that pin. You will see that the whole carriage, plus the shaft, comes loose from the mounting plate. It is not always easy to slide the spanner sideways. You could relieve the weight of the doors a little by putting a thin wedge between door and floor. Now do the same with the second carriage. Remove the black plastic stop that is tightly fitted into the mounting plate by tapping it out in the direction shown using a hammer and drift. (drawing Z). You can remove the doors now (for painting, repairs etc). If you also want to take the carriages out, slide them towards the notched / open end of the track. Drawings are not to scale. Keep this HowTO handy. You may need it later on. X TRACK CROSS SECTION See point 5. Head jamb Y BI-PARTING (DOUBLE) DOORS See point 6. Mounting plate ADJUSTING & REMOVING CARRIAGES See points 5, 7, & 8. M6 Carriage approx. 3/8 clearance Screw fix pocket header into lintel/stud when using heavy doors Black plastic stop (only required for double doors on the leading edge) Tap into position using hammer & drift Carriage removal notch 1 3/8 Track stop Black plastic stop Tap this way to remove Extended end of wrench Clearance 3/8-13/16 (adjustable) M8 Carriage Track stop To lower door Lintel Head top Timber pelmet block Head jamb (supplied unfixed) Fix after door installation Track To raise door Another quality product from: 2 PAGE

14 All copyright and other property in this document is reserved by Cavity Sliders USA Inc. Details and specifications are subject to change without notice. Whilst all care is taken to ensure the accuracy of all information, no responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions. Patent Pending Preparing Doors for CS Pocket Track These instructions cover the preparation of doors to be fitted into a pocket that has the CS Pocket Door Track fitted. Read through the notes carefully before beginning as different mounting plate positions and setups may be required for different configurations. Preparing Doors for CS Pocket Track 1 Contamination of the top track. Never drill, nail or screw through the center section of the track. Make sure no dirt, grit or aluminum swarf gets into the track. This could impair the smooth running of the carriages. 2 Preparing the doors. Drill two holes in the positions as marked (drawing V1 or V2). Screw both mounting plates to the door. Make sure they are placed exactly in the center of the door thickness. At the bottom of the door leaf, cut a groove to the dimension and tolerance shown (V2). Make it central of the door thickness and absolutely straight. 3 For Bi-Parting (Double) doors (drawing V2). Fit the black plastic stop to the lead mounting plate only. 4 T-Guide (drawing W) Fix the T-Guide to the floor so that it is not visible when the door is in the pocket. The front edge of the T-Guide should sit flush with the final casings. 5 Hanging the doors (drawing X & Z, page 2). If the pocket frame has been supplied with head jambs fitted, remove the jamb from one side to allow access to carriages for mounting and vertical height adjustment (drawing Z). When adjusting door height, the wrench should be horizontal to the nut (drawing Z). Refix head jamb once door has been mounted and desired door clearance is achieved. Insert the carriages into the track through the notched end, taking care not to damage the wheels on the sharp edge of the track. Position the carriages in the pocket opening approximately where the mounting plates on the door will be located when the door is in the closed position. Slide the door over the T Guide and into the pocket. Align the mounting plates with the hanger bolts of the carriages. Offer the mounting plate up onto the hanger bolt by lifting the door (you may need someone to help you or use a lever at the base of the door). The head of the hanger bolt should mate with the plunger and sink 1/8 before you can slide the bolt across and lock into place. The plunger should pop back up once it is correctly located. Adjust door(s) for plumb and desired under door clearance (drawing Z). Go to page 2 (overleaf) 1 PREPARING DOORS - Single See point 2. Single Doors Fit the 6 screws as shown Curved release pin 85mm (3-3/8 ) to center of the boss hole Drill ø25mm (1 ) 13mm (1/2 ) deep 2 PREPARING DOORS - Bi-Parting (double) or Mount Plate with Stop Black plastic stop See point mm (6 ) to center of the boss hole Face of door leaf 20-21mm (13/16 ) 5-5.5mm (7/32 ) 1 85mm (3-3/8 ) SUGGESTED T-GUIDE PLACEMENT See point 4. Pocket framing T-Guide Fit screws as shown. Use extra screws where required for heavy doors. Curved release pin Drill ø25mm (1 ) 13mm (1/2 ) deep Casings T-Guide Door PAGE 85mm (3-3/8 ) to center

15 6 For Double (Bi-Parting) doors (drawing Y). Slide the track stop into the track (via the carriage removal notch) and loosely tighten so that the track stop is still able to slide. Use the door to push the track stop to where you want the door to stop. Slide the door away and tighten the track stops using an Allen key. 7 Adjusting the door heights (drawing Z). Use the small end of the wrench supplied to rotate the hexagonal nut at the bottom of the carriage hanger shaft. To raise door: Rotate wrench from left to right. To lower door: Rotate wrench from right to left. Note: The hanger shaft fits at the top into a self locking nut. If you lower the hexagonal nut too far, the shaft will become loose from the self locking nut. So: if the turning resistance suddenly feels much easier, you have gone too far. If you raise the door to the maximum height position, the threaded bolt may contact fixing screw heads. If required, remove hanger bolt from wheel and remove 2-3mm of thread. 8 Removing the door leaves (drawing Z). Using the wrench supplied, slide the extended end down the threaded part of the hanger shaft of the carriage. Fit it over the hexagonal nut at the bottom. Now, (with the extended part of the wrench) press down the curved release pin that points up from the mounting plate. Once this pin is fully depressed, you can slide the wrench sideways in the direction of that pin. You will see that the whole carriage, plus the shaft, comes loose from the mounting plate. It is not always easy to slide the wrench sideways. You could relieve the weight of the doors a little by putting a thin wedge between door and floor. Now do the same with the second carriage. Remove the black plastic stop that is tightly fitted into the mounting plate by tapping it out in the direction shown using a hammer and drift. (drawing Z). You can remove the doors now (for painting, repairs etc). If you also want to take the carriages out, slide them towards the notched / open end of the track. Drawings are not to scale. Keep this HowTO handy. You may need it later on. X TRACK CROSS SECTION See point 5. Head jamb Y BI-PARTING (DOUBLE) DOORS See point 6. Mounting plate ADJUSTING & REMOVING CARRIAGES See points 5, 7, & 8. M6 Carriage approx. 3/8 clearance Screw fix pocket header into lintel/stud when using heavy doors Black plastic stop (only required for double doors on the leading edge) Tap into position using hammer & drift Carriage removal notch 1 3/8 Track stop Black plastic stop Tap this way to remove Extended end of wrench Clearance 3/8-13/16 (adjustable) M8 Carriage Track stop To lower door Lintel Head top Timber pelmet block Head jamb (supplied unfixed) Fix after door installation Track To raise door Another quality product from: 2 PAGE

16 These instructions are supplementary to the instructions you already have and should be read after you have read the HowTO instruction set for the unit purchased. 1 PAGE Additional HowTO - All copyright and other property in this document is reserved by Cavity Sliders USA Inc. Details and specifications are subject to change without notice. Whilst all care is taken to ensure the accuracy of all information, no responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions. CS SOFSTOP (O.D. 2012) ZNI125 / 60721/US IMPORTANT The CS SofStop carriages require a clean track running surface free of any contamination or damage. After installation but before lining, clean the full length of the inside running surface of the track with a soft rag, then TAPE UP THE TRACK to ensure no dust or debris enter the track during building works. Install track and prepare the door(s) as per the standard Installation Instructions supplied then follow the steps below to install the SofStop mechanism. 1 Installing the SofStop mechanism. The SofStop mechanism fits together as shown (drawing S). To load the SofStop mechanism into the track: a) First, slide the rear carriage in from the notched end of the track (drawing T). Note: Rear carriage does not have a tow bar (drawing S). b) Charge up the pickup mechanism by pushing firmly in the direction shown (drawing U) until it clicks into place. This may have been done already. c) Ensure the mechanism is charged (instruction 1b), then insert the cassette into the notched end of the track, dolly wheel first (drawing V), ensuring that the pickup mechanism is facing up. d) Slide the cassette along into the track until the pickup mechanism goes past the SofStop activator in the track (drawing W). e) Slide the front carriage into the track with the tow bar facing into the pocket (drawing X, overleaf). Ensure the cassette and carriage are past the activator, then secure the carriage to the cassette with the M5 pan head machine screw (drawing Y). Tighten with a #1 square drive. 2 Test the SofStop mechanism Before fitting your door leaf, test that the mechanism is working correctly by sliding the cassette towards the closing jamb. When the mechanism passes the activator, it should close the rest of the way by itself. Follow the standard HowTO Installation Instructions to hang the door and adjust the door height. 3 Adjusting the Sofstop mechanism (drawing W). The SofStop mechanism is designed to dampen the door s movement whilst ensuring it is positively closed. Final adjustment may be required due to differences in door weight acting on the mechanism. There are two holes drilled in the track for positioning the activator (drawing W). Go to page 2 (overleaf) Front carriage Tow bar Notched end of track SOFSTOP MECHANISM See point 1. SofStop cassette M5 pan head machine screw INSERTING REAR CARRIAGE See point 1a. Click into loaded position Rear carriage Pickup mechanism Dolly wheel Rear carriage U CHARGING MECHANISM See point 1b. 1 2 Dolly wheel INSERTING CASSETTE See point 1c. SOFSTOP ACTIVATOR See points 1 and 3. Closing jamb Activator (standard position) Adjustment Activator Alternate hole for activator Grub screw Pocket Cavity Sliders USA Inc.

17 X LOADING FRONT CARRIAGE See point 1d. 2 PAGE Front carriage Notched end of track SofStop cassette Y SECURING FRONT CARRIAGE See point 1d. Hanger bolt 3 Adjusting the Sofstop mechanism The hole closest to the closing jamb is the standard position. Latching locksets: move the activator (see method below) to the alternate pre-drilled hole. This will help the door to close on the striker. Adjusting positive close force (typically on lighter doors): move activator closer to the closing jamb. Adjusting soft close range of travel (typically on heavier doors): move activator closer to the pocket. To move the activator: Carry out the following steps to achieve this: Use an M3 Allen key to remove the center grub screw. Use an M2.5 Allen key to loosen the outer grub screws. Reposition the activator by tightening the outer grub screws only and test the door. Once you are happy with the action, refit the center grub screw to mark the track in the new position. Move the activator out of the way and drill a 4-5mm (3/16 ) hole where the center grub screw has left a mark. Ensure any swarf is cleaned from the track and tighten the activator in the new position. Some doors may still bump on the closing jamb when closing this is normal and required to achieve a positive close. This may be alleviated through the use of a 3M clear dome stop (or similar). 4 Removing the SofStop mechanism If you need to remove or service the cassette, remove the door leaf as per the standard Installation Instructions, then follow the steps above in reverse order. Notched end of track Black plastic stop (Bi-Parting units) Tap this way to remove Extended end of wrench Front carriage ADJUSTING & REMOVING CARRIAGES Keep this sheet together with your standard HowTO guide. You may need it later on. Drawings are not to scale. Hanger shaft (threaded) To lower door SofStop cassette M5 pan head machine screw To raise door Cavity Sliders USA Inc. Another quality product from: