Cuff Down Socks with Gussets Lesson ...,..

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1 FAS HI O N FRAM EWORK SER I ES Cuff Down Socks with Gussets Lesson by Suzanne Bryan This is a complementary article to the Toe-Up Sock Lesson in the August-October 2009 Cast On by Arenda Holladay. Socks are generally knit either from the toe up or the cuff down. In this article we will be discussing socks knit from the cuff down with heel flaps and gussets. The general components of the sock are the same (cuff, leg, heel, foot and toe) but the techniques for working them are different. Some people prefer one method over the other. Many people prefer to knit toe up socks because they are not confident in working a Kitchener stitch to close the toe, and there are others who prefer to knit socks from the cuff down, because they are not confident in creating a stretchy bind off. Components The cast on technique is the most important part of the cuff. It needs to be loose enough to allow the cuff to be pulled over the heel of the wearer's foot and yet not so loose as to look sloppy. Just about any cast on can be used as long as it is stretchy enough. For standard socks I prefer the long tail cast on or the twisted German cast on. Some people prefer to cast on over two needles to make sure their cast on is loose enough. I cast on over one needle, but allow enough space between the cast on stitches to allow for the gauge of the sock. If the gauge is eight stitches to the inch, then 1 allow my cast on to be eight cast on stitches to the inch. Once the stitches are cast on, there are a variety of things that can be done with the cuff, the most common of which is ribbing. The ribbing can be any length, including the entire leg and foot of the sock, or as short as a few stabilizing rows at the top of the leg. continued on page ,.. KGA.com 47

2 continued from page 47 The sock in this lesson incorporates a picot style cast on instead of ribbing, but ribbing can be substituted in its place if so desired. The leg of the sock is generally the same diameter as the foot. When the socks are longer, such as knee socks, the leg will need to taper from the larger calf area to the smaller ankle area. The ankle and foot are usually close in size, and for most ankle socks the number of stitches cast on for the leg is the sam e number used for the foot, but can be varied as needed for design or size. The Emerald Sock following this article uses one less stitch in the foot than in the leg to accommodate a symmetrical pattern on the sole of the foot. For ankle socks, the leg measured from the cast on to the bottom of the heel is usually the same length as from the toe to the back of the heel. For the sock with this article, the ankle length stays the sam e for all three sizes due to the pattern on the ankle. Both measurements can be adjusted to suit the wearer. The pattern for this sock can easily be left out and the leg can then be knit to any preferred length. Following the leg construction is the heel flap. The heel flap is usually worked over half of the total stitches in the leg and the same number of rows. For example: if the sock is cast on with 60 stitches then there will be 30 stitches for 30 rows in the heel flap. If the heel flap incorporates slipped stitches, stranded work, lace or cables in the body of the work, the stitches and rows may be adjusted to accommodate the pattern. Another consideration in deciding how many stitches or rows should be included in the heel flap is whether the heel flap is worked in the same or a different pattern as the rest of the sock. An example is the Emerald Sock pattern which follows this article: the heel flap is worked in Stockinette stitch in one color, while the body of the sock is stranded. The stranding requires more stitches and rows per inch in comparison to Stockinette stitch and this had to be taken into consideration when deciding how long to make the heel flap. But generally speaking, the heel flap should be worked over half of the leg stitches with the same number of rows. If the intended wearer of the socks has higher or lower arches than is standard, this can be adjusted for in the rows of the heel flap. If the arch is higher, add 2 or 4 rows, if it is lower subtract 2 or 4 rows. Another consideration for working the heel flap is whether or not to slip the first stitch of every row. By slipping the first stitch of each row, there is a nicely defi ned space for picking up and knitting the gusset stitches later. Sometimes the heel flap design accommodates this nicely, such as the Eye of Partridge design for the Red Mosaic Sock heel flap. Other times, working the heel flap rows without those slipped stitches 'looks nicer, as in the pattern with this article and in the Emerald Sock pattern. When the heel flap is Stockinette stitch? slipping the first stitch of each row can result in sloppy looking edges once the gusset stitches have been picked up. The heel turn is next. This is the most magical part of a sock - turning the heel. There are many variations on heel turns. In this sock the heel turn is a standard rounded heel. The following two patterns use a sharper heel turn. Once the heel turn is completed, the gusset stitches will be picked up. The gusset is the area where the sock expands for the arch of the foot. The picked up gusset stitches are extra and will be decreased back down to the basic foot number of stitches once the arch is finished. The gussets are usually placed one on each side of the lower ankle/foot portion of the sock, but can be moved around to accommodate the design. In the Red Mosaic Sock following this article the gussets were added together to make one gusset which was placed on the bottom of the heel to allow the stitch pattern to appear to completely surround the foot. In the Emerald Sock pattern the gussets were placed on the sides of the sock and incorporated the beginnings of the sole pattern into the sides of the sock. In the Pretty Sock pattern included with this article, the gussets are on the sides and blend nicely into the overall look of the sock. If there are slipped stitches at the beginnings of each row on the heel flap, there should be one slipped stitch for each two rows and you will pick up and knit one stitch in each slipped stitch space. Some people like to go through the middle of the slipped stitch, which leaves a half stitch along the finish ed edge, while others like to go through the space between the slipped stitch and the next stitch in, which does not leave a half stitch along the finished edge. It is a personal preference. If there are no slipped stitches, then you will pick up and knit one stitch every other row between the first and second stitch in from the edge of the heel flap. If there are 30 rows in the heel flap, 15 stitches will be picked up and knit either way you choose. The Gap Where the heel flap meets the instep portion of the sock, there has been quite a bit of stress placed in the space between the last stitch of the heel and the first stitch of the instep and vice versa on the other side, while working the heel flap. This causes a stretching of the yarn in this area and unless compensated for, will leave a gaping hole in each side of the sock. You may not notice this area while you are knitting, but as soon as you put the sock on your foot, it will stand out like a neon light. There are several ways to deal with this gap, but we will discuss only one, which is my favorite. Once the gusset stitches have been picked up and knit and using the left needle, going under it from front to back, place that strand of yarn that spans the space between the heel and instep on the left needle. Then with the right needle, knit it through the back loop. Work across the instep stitches and then with the heel gusset needle do the same with the strand between the instep and the heel of the other side. These two extra stitches should be on the heel needle(s), not the instep needle. In the next row, you will decrease them away by knitting t\\10 together on the right side and performing an ssk on the left side. This places them under the edge of the heel stitches and makes them virtually invisible once the sock is finished. Be very careful to not stretch these two stitches as they are worked. I usually set my sock on a table or in my lap when I am working these two stitches, to keep the weight of the sock from causing any more stretch than is necessary. Now you decrease the extra gusset stitches. This is done by making a decrease at each side where the heel and instep needles meet on every other row. The decreases are worked as a k2tog, kl on the right side and a kl, ssk on the left side. This leaves one stitch between the decrease stitch and the edge of the heel/sole portion of the sock and makes a nice finished line along the decrease edge. The decreases are worked in these mirrored pairs until returning to the original number 48 Cast On August - October 2011

3 of stitches on the heel needle. In our example that would be 30. Then the foot is worked for the appropriate length. This is a good time to try the sock on and check for length. Most toes are about two inches long, so you can knit the foot until about two inches short of the desired length. The Toe There are also many styles of toes, but we will be working a standard toe, which involves working mirrored decreases at each side of the toe every other row, and then changing to every row for a few rows before grafting the toe with Kitchener stitch. You can work the toe with the decreases every other row until the desired number of stitches is left and then graft, which gives a rather pointed toe or you can work the decrease every row for the last few rows, which gives a slightly more rounded look to the toe. Grafting the toe: Each of the patterns has a step by step approach to grafting the toe. It may seem very difficult at first, but with practice becomes second nature. I have a little mantra that I say to myself as I graft. On the front needle it is" knit off, purl on" and on the back needle it is "purl off, knit on'~ So it goes, "knit off, p url on, purl off, knit on': etc. Once you have worked through the toe grafting instructions it will all make sense. Yarn Considerations Just about any yarn can be used for socks. But if you want your socks to endure, choose a yarn that is tightly twisted or worsted. Even better is to choose a tightly twisted yarn with a little nylon in the fiber mix. Wool has much more stretch than cotton, silk, or any manm ade fiber and makes nice stretchy socks. Cotton or silk or other fibers make for nice socks too, but you just have to accommodate for the lack of stretch. The weight of the yarn is personal preference, but many of the patterns circulating currently use "sock yarn", which is nothing more than fingering weight yarn that has a tight twist, and is usually superwash wool with or without nylon. There are some very nice sock yarns which also contain cashmere as in the yarns used for the Emerald Sock and the Red Mosaic Sock. Many sock yarns also have mixed fibers. If the fiber chosen pills easily, the socks will n ot wear for very long. Needles Many sock knitters have strong preferences for their sock needles. Some use sets of double pointed needles while others use one long needle fo r magic loop and still others use two circular needles. It is all personal preference. One at a Time or Two at a Time Many people prefer to knit their socks two at a time. They feel that the socks are identical and that the process is quicker. Then there are others who like to knit their socks one at a time and think that it is quicker for them than two at a time. I have written the following three patterns so that either method will work. Care Many sock yarns are superwash and can be washed and dried by machine. If the yarns are not superwash, hand washing is recommended. Always read the label on the yarn for recommendations. There is nothing worse than spending many hours knitting a pair of beautiful socks and then having them felted unintentionally. Also- hand knit socks are not slippers. They are meant to be worn with shoes. Carpeting or fleece lined boots/ shoes are very hard on hand knit socks and will wear them out in a jiffy. SOCK LESSON The pattern for this lesson is for a simple cuff down sock with a heel flap and gussets. Explanations are provided along with the directions. The pattern on the socks goes on the outside of the ankles. There is a right sock and a left sock. Pretty Sock by Suzanne Bryan Yarn Symbol: Super Fine (I) Level of Experience: Intermediate Sizes: Women's Shoe SizeS (3-6), M (6-9), L (9-12) Finished Measurements: Circumference of Leg & Foot: 6 1/2 (7 l/2, 8 1/2)" Length from Tip of Toe to Back of Heel: 8 l/2 (9 112, 10 1/2)" Top of Cuff to Bottom of Heel: 9 1/2" continued on page 50 ' 49

4 conrinued from page 49 Materials: Anzula SEBASTIAN (4oz/115g, 395yds/361m, 70% Superwash Merino, 30% Sea Cell): 1 skein Seabreaze Two Size 0 (2mm) 24" (60.9cm) circular needles, two size 1 (2.25mm) 24" (60.9cm) circular needles or sizes needed to obtain gauge Tapestry needle Stitch marker This design would also look good with a shaded solid color. The yardage that I used was 295 yards. Gauge: In Stockinette st, 8 sts & 10 rnds = l"/2.5 em. To save time, take time to check gauge. When working a gauge swatch for a project that will be knitted in the round, it is important to also knit the gauge swatch in the stitch pattern in the round. Generally sock gauge is in inches. By measuring over 4 inches and then dividing the number of stitches in 4 inches by 4, you will get the stitches per inch. Do the same for the row gauge. Measure how many rows there are in 4 inches and then divide by 4 to get how many rows there are in one inch. Do not round off the numbers for the stitch or row gauge. This can also be knit as a very simple sock with no design. The cuff could be knitted in ribbing instead of the Picot Cuff, and the simple design on the leg of the sock can be omitted. Picot Cuff With larger needles, CO on 52 (60, 68) sts, divide equally over two needles, join in the rnd bei ng careful not to twist sts. PM at beg ofrnd. S If using double pointed needles or one long circular for magic loop, rearrange your stitches accordingly. Joining in the round can be performed in several different ways. One way is to just start knitting keeping the yarn taut between the last cast on stitch and the first knit. Another way is to cast on one extra stitch and then place the extra stitch next to the first stitch cast on and then knit the two together as the first knit stitch. Another way is to place the first stitch cast on next to the last stitch cast on and then pass one over the other without dropping either from the needles, and work them in their new positions. Marking the beginning of the round can be as simple as keeping track of where the cast on tail is, which is at the beginning of the round, or a removable marker can be placed in the cast on edge which can be removed after the sock is finished. With smaller needles, k 7 rnds. With larger needles, "k2tg, yo, rep from * to end of rnd. K 7 rnds. With smaller needles, pick up loops fmm cast on edge. Holding smaller needle with cast on edge behind, align ed with working needle, *k1 st from working needle tog with 1 loop from cast on edge, rep from * until all sts have been worked. Leg Rnd 1: K 4 rnds, (sl marker on this and all other rnds.) Rnd 2: Kll (13, 15) sts, k2tog, yo, k to end of rnd. Rnd 3 & all odd rnds: K 1 rnd. Rnd 4: K10 (12, 14), k2tog, yo, kl, yo, ssk, k to end of rnd. Rnd 6: K9 (II, 13), k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k to end ofrnd. Rnd 8: K8 (10, 12), k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k to end ofrnd. Rnd 10: K9 (II, 13), ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k to end of rnd. Rnd 12: KIO (12, 10), ssk, yo, kl, yo, k2tog, k to end of rnd. K 4 rnds even. K 12 ( 14, 16) sts, yo, ssk, k to end of rnd. K 1 rnd even. Rep Rnds 4-12 once. K 4 rnds even. Rep Rnds 2-8 once. K 4 rnds even. K9 ( 11, 13) sts, count 4 sts over on left needle, with right needle go through middle of 5th st down (the st on left needle being #1) pull working yarn through from back to front, making a loose loop, place it on right needle, k7, with left needle go through same st as before, pull another loose loop through, place it on right needle, k to end of rnd. K8 ( l 0, 12) sts, k loop tog with next st, k7, sl loop to right needle kvvise, kl, pass loop over and off needle, k to end of rnd. K 1 rnd even. K13 (15, 17) sts, make loop from same place as first two loops, k to end of rnd. K 12 ( 14, 16) sts, k loop tog with next st, k to end of rnd. K 5 rnds even. Heel Flap There will be notes here on how the second sock will differ from the first. If you are knitting one sock at a time, ignore the directions for the second sock, until you are ready to work it. The little lace design is on the outside of each sock. Therefore the stitches need to be rearranged to create mirror image socks. This heel flap is worked back and forth without using slipped sts at begs of rows. This creates a much more even edge after heel gusset sts are picked up. Many people work their heel flaps by slipping the first st of ea row so that the picked up sts will be picked up in the slipped sts instead, sometimes doing so creates uneven edge sts once the gusset has been picked up. Left Sock: K13 ( 15, 17) sts, move second 13 (15, 17) sts to second needle, move first 13 (15, 17) sts from second needle to first needle. There should be 26 (30, 34) sts on ea needle. The second needle will be the heel flap. Right sock: K 12 (1 4, 16) sts, move next 14 (16, 18) sts to second needle, move first 14 (16, 18) sts from second needle to first needle. There should be 26 (30, 34) sts on ea needle. The first needle will be the heel flap. Heel Flap Needle Row 1: With A, k across, turn. Row 2: Purl across, turn. Rep these 2 rows until there are 26 (30, 34) rows Cast 011 August - October 20 ll

5 Turn Heel Row 1: Sll, kl7, k2tog, k l, turn. Row 2: Sll, p7, ssp, pl, turn. Row 3: Sll, k8, k2tog, k l, turn. Row 4: Sll, p9, ssp, pl, turn. Cont this process, working one more st per row until there is one unworked stat ea end of needle. H eel Gusset When picking up and knitting stitches along the heel flap, the stitches will be picked up and knit in the space between the last two stitches in the rows on the edge of the heel flap. The ratio for picking up the stitches is one stitch for each two rows of the heel flap. (Every other row). When picking up the strand between two stitches, bring the left needle from the front to the back, under the strand between the two stitches. With the right needle knit this stitch through the back loop. This creates a twisted stitch. Be careful to not stretch this stitch while working. Sometimes it is difficult, because the full weight of the sock will be hanging from this one stitch. You may want to set the sock on your lap or on a table while working these stitches. Sll, k to last 2 sts on needle, k2tog, pm (this will be the new beg of row marker). Pick up and k 13 ( 15, 17) sts along heel flap edge (see Technical Tip above). With heel needle lift strand bet needles going from front to back, then ktbl, k across instep needle. With heel needle lift strand bet needles going from front to back, ktbl, pick up and kl 3 (15, 17) sts along h eel flap edge, ssk and k to beg of rnd marker. Rnd 1: K across heel needle unti12 sts rem, ssk, k across instep needle. On heel needle k2tog, k to marker. Rnd 2: K to marker. Rnd 3: K until 3 sts rem on heel needle, k2tog, kl, k across instep needle, on heel needle, kl, ssk, k to marker. Rnd 4: Knit around. Rep Rnds 3 & 4 until 26 (30, 34) sts rem on heel needle. Foot Work in St st until2" less than desired length, or about 6 1/2 (7 l /2, 8 1/2)" from beg of heel. K to end of needle, remove marker. As you are approaching the end of the foot, try the sock on your foot. Now is the time to decide to shorten or lengthen the sock. Keeping in mind that the toe section will be about 2", keep checking as you are knitting and either work fewer or more rows to fit your foot. Toe Rnd 1: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on needle, k2tog, k l. Kl, ssk, k until3 sts rem on second needle, k2tog, kl. Rnd 2: K 1 rnd. Rep rnds 1 & 2 until12 (16, 20) st rem on ea needle. Work rnd 4 until6 sts rem on ea needle. Break yarn leaving a 10" tail. Graft the rem sts using Kitchener stitch. Kitchener stitch toes without pointed ears: Thread the tapestry needle with the tail. With the stitches on two needles, held together so that the points of the needles are facing to the right, the front of the sock is facing you and working yarn is coming from the back needle, follow instructions for Kitchener Stitch in Pattern Basics on page 75, until 1 stitch remains on each needle. Remove the needles. Using the tip of the tapestry needle, adjust the kitchenered stitches so that they match the surrounding stitches in gauge, then with the tail still threaded in the tapestry needle, place the needle through the top of the last kitchenered stitch into the inside of the toe, pull the needle and tail through and weave in the end. Be sure to snug up the yarn when moving between needles. Adjust the tension of the Kitchener stitches as needed to match the surrounding stitch tension. With the tapestry needle, take the yarn down through the tip of the sock at the point where the last two stitches were kitchenered together Weave in ends and block. Blocking transforms this fabric into a nice smooth fabric. Soak the sock in room temperature soapy water for 15 minutes, then rinse. Place the sock on an absorbent towel and then roll the towel up and press on the towel and sock. Unroll and then lay the sock on a flat surface, shape the sock to size, let dry. continued on page

6 accordingly. Joining in the round can be performed in several different ways. One way is to just start knitting keeping the yarn taut between the last cast on stitch and the first knit. Another way is to cast on one extra stitch and then place the extra stitch next to the first stitch cast on and then knit the two together as the first knit stitch. Another way is to place the first stitch cast on next to the last stitch cast on and then pass one over the other without dropping either from the needles, and work them in their new positions. continued f rom page 51 Red Mosaic Sock by Suzanne Bryan Yarn Symbol: Super Fine (1) Level of Experience: Intermediate Size: Women's Shoe Size M (7-8) For a smaller size sock, go down a needle size, for a larger size sock, increase the needle size. Finished Measurements: Leg and Foot Circumference: 7 l/2" Tip oftoe to Back of Heel: 9 1/2" Top of Cuff to Bottom of Heel: 9 1/2" Materials: Anzula SQUTSHY ( 4oz/ 1 J 5g, 385yds/352m, 80o/o Superwash Merino, loo/o Cashmere, 10o/o Nylon): 1 skein eared Shoe (A) & Seaside (B) Two Size I (2.25mm) 24" (60.9cm) circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge Tapestry needle Stitch markers I used for color A 207 yards and color B 130 yards. This design would look good with any two contrasting colors. A variegated or shaded solid color with a solid or two shaded solids would look good. Keep in mind if using a variegated yarn that the contrasting solid color should not be one of the colors in the variegated yarn. If it is, the stitch areas where those colors combine will have no discernible pattern. Gauge: In Mosaic St, 9 sts & 15 rnds = 1"/2.5 em. To save time, take time to check gauge. When working a gauge swatch for a project that will be knitted in the round, it is important to also knit the gauge swatch in pattern in the round. Because mosaic stitch patterns are created with slipped stitches there will be more rounds per inch than in Stockinette stitch patterns. Cuff With color A and long-tail cast on, CO 70 sts, divided equally over two circular needles, join in the rnd being careful not to twist sts. If using double pointed needles or one long circular for magic loop, rearrange your stitches Place a marker (PM) at beg of rnd. Marking the beginning of the round can be as simple as keeping track of where the cast on tail is, which is at the beginning of the round, or a removable marker can be placed in the cast on edge which can be removed after the sock is finished. Work 14 rnds in kl, pl Rib. The ribbing can be shorter or longer based on personal preference. Starting with Band Mosaic Chart, work the chart 5 times across 70 st rnds. Cont pat in rows until there are three chart reps, last rep ends on row 27, break B. By ending at row 27 before the Heel Flap is started, when the work is resumed in the round after the heel flap, row 28 will be next, just worked over the instep. This maintains the pattern while picking up the stitches along the edges of the heel flap. When changing from one color to the next, pick up the new color from behind the old color. When working mosaic patterns always slip the stitches purlwise with the yarn held to the WS. Heel Flap Worked over 35 sts on fust needle. 52 Cast 011 August -October 2011

7 Row 1: W ith A *sl l, kl, rep from*, k l (end of row), turn. Row 2 & 4: Sll, p across, turn. Row 3: 512, kl, *sll, kl, rep from*, turn. Rep these 4 rows until there are 16 sl sts on ea heel flap edge. This is an Eye of Partridge heel pattern and all of the slipped stitches are slipped purlwise. Tum Heel Row 1: Sl l, kl8, k2tog, kl, turn. Row 2: Sll, p4, ssp, pi, turn. Row 3: Sll, ks, k2tog, kl, turn. Row 4: Sll, p6, ssp, pl, turn. Cont this process, working one more st per row until there is one unworked stat ea end of needle. Heel Gusset In this sock, the gussets are combined into one gusset at the bottom of the heel. This allows the pattern to continue around the sock uninterrupted except for the gusset at the bottom of the heel. Sll, k until 2 sts rem, k2tog, pm, pick up and knit I st in ea sl st along heel flap edge, lift strand A from bet needles going from front to back, place on left needle, ktbl. Work in chart pat row 28 over 2nd needle keeping previous pat. With heel needle pick up strand A bet needles going from front to back, place on left n eedle, ktbl, pick up and knit 1 st in ea sl st along second edge of heel flap, pm, (this marker designates the new beg of rnd) ssk- 53 sts on heel needl e. When picking up the strand between two stitches, bring the left needle from the front to the back, under the strand between the two stitches. With the right needle knit this stitch through the back loop creating a twisted stitch. Remember when changing colors to always pick up the new color from under the old color. And always slip marker at beginning of each round. Rnd 1: With B ""kl, sll, rep from * to marker, sl marker. Start Red Mosaic Sock Chart on row I, column 5, cont in pat to beg of rnd, sl marker. Rnd 2: Slip the sl sts and k the knit sts to beg of rnd. (As above) Rnd 3: W ith A, ssk, *k l, sll, rep from * to 3 sts before marker, kl, k2tog, sl marker, cont with chart to beg of rnd. Rnd 4: Sli p the sl sts and knit the k sts to beg ofrnd. Rnd 5: With B, sl2, *kl, sll, rep from"" to 2 sts before first m arker, sl2, sl marker, cont with chart to beg of rnd marker. Rnd 6: Slip the sl sts and knit the k ~ts to beg of rnd marker. Rnd 7: With A, ssk, *sll, kl, rep from* until 3 sts rem before marker, sll, k2tog, sl marker, cont chart to beg of rnd. Cont in this manner, dec 2 sts bet markers every 4th row until 3 sts rem bet markers and row 4 of the chart is completed, maintain stripes bet markers. Remove beg of rnd marker, with A, sll, k2tog, sl 1st st over 2nd stand off needle, slmarker (new beg of rnd) and coot in chart pat- 35 sts on ea needle. Foot Work until chart has been completed, 6 ti mes from rib, rep rows I and 2 once more. Break B. As you are approaching the end of the charted section, try the sock on your foot. Now is the time to decide to shorten or lengthen the sock. Keeping in mind that the toe section will be two inches, keep checking as you are knitting and either work fewer or more rows to fit your foot. As the sock is designed, the charted pattern is balanced between the cuff and toe and should fit most people. Toe R.nd 1: With A, k one rnd, sl marker. Rnd 2: K until 3 sts rem on heel needle, k2tog, k I, kl, ssk, k until 3 sts rem on instep needle, k2tog, k I, kl, ssk, k to marker, sl marker. Rep these two rnds until 21 sts rem on ea needle. Work Rnd 2 until 9 sts rem on ea needle. Remove marker, k rem sts on left needle. Break yarn leaving a 10" tail. Graft the rem sts using Kitchener stitch. Kitchener stitch toes without pointed ears. Thread the tapestry needle with the tail. With the stitches on two needles, held together so that the points of the needles are facing to the right, the front of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming from the back needle - *using the tapestry needle, bring the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and pull the yarn thrpugh letting the stitch fall off the knitting needle, then bring the tapestry needle through the next stitch purlwise, leaving the stitch on the knitting needle. Go to the back knitting needle and bring the tapestry needle through the first stitch as if to purl, letting the stitch fall from the knitting needle, and then through the next stitch as if to knit, leaving the stitch on the knitting needle. Repeat from * until 1 stitch remains on each needle. Remove the needles. Using the tip of the tapestry needle adjust the kitchenered stitches so that they match the surrounding stitches in gauge, then with the tail still threaded in the tapestry needle, place the needle through the top of the last kitchenered stitch into the _inside of the toe, pull the needle and tail through and weave in the end. Be sure to snug up the yarn when moving between needles. Adjust the tension of the Kitchener stitches as needed to match the surrounding stitch tension. With the tapestry needle, take the yarn down through the tip of the sock at the point where the last two stitches were kitchenered together. (See sidebar note on page 51.) Weave in ends and block. Blocking transforms this fabric from a rough uneven surface to a much more smooth fabric. Soak the sock in room temperature soapy water for 15 minutes, then rinse. Place the sock on an absorbent towel and then roll the towel up and press on the towel and sock. Unroll and then lay the sock on a flat surface, shape the sock to size, let dry. continued on page , 53

8 Red Mosaic Sock Chart I I I the variegated yarn. If it is, the stitch areas where those colors combine will have no discernible pattern. The yardage used on this pair of socks was Color A 261, yards and Color B 161 yards Gauge: In Pat st, 10 sts & 10 rnds = l"/2.5 em. To save time, take time to check gauge. continued from page 53 Red Mosaic Sock Chart knitwitha knit with B 14 sts 0 knit I st row, purl 2nd row fl knit 1st row, purl 2nd row Work each row on the chart twice in the same color. For example, row 1 is worked around in color B, and then row 2 is worked the same as row 1, change to color A and work rows 3 and 4, then change colors, work rows 5 and 6, etc. The square to the right of the row numbers designates the color used for those two rows and is not part of the pattern. The other color will be slipped as it is encountered. Emerald Sock by Suzanne Bryan Yarn Symbol: Super Fine (1) Level of Experience: Experienced Size: Women's Shoe Size Medium (7-8) To make a smaller size sock, go down a needle size, for a larger size sock, increase the needle size. Finished Measurements: Leg and foot Circumference: 7 1/2" Tip oftoe to Back of Heel: 9 1/2" Top of Cuff to Bottom of Heel: 9 l/2" Materials: Anzula SQUISHY ( 4oz/ 115g, 385yds/352m, 80% Superwash Merino, loo/o Cashmere, 10% Nylon): 1 skein Emerald (A) Anzula SEBASTIAN (4oz/115g, 395yds/36lm, 70% Superwash Merino, 30% Sea Cell): 1 skein Au Natural (B) Two Size l (2.25mm ) 24" (60.9cm ) circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge Tapestry needle Stitch markers This design would look good with any two contrasting colors. A variegated or shaded solid color with a solid or two shaded solids would look good also. Keep in mind if using a variegated yarn that the contrasting solid color should not be one of the colors in When working a gauge swatch for a project that will be knitted in the round, it is important to also knit the gauge swatch in the pattern stitch in the round Cuff With color A, using long-tail cast on method, CO 72 st, divided sts equally over 2 circular needles, join in rnd being careful not to twist sts. If using double pointed needles or one long circular for magic loop, rearrange your stitches accordingly. Joining in the round can be performed in several different ways. One way is to just start knitting keeping the yarn taut between the last cast on stitch and the first knit. Another way is to cast on one extra stitch and then place the extra stitch next to the first stitch cast on and then knit the two together as the first knit stitch. Another way is to place the first stitch cast on next to the last stitch cast on and then pass one over the other without dropping either from the needles, and work them in their new positions. Place a marker at the beg of the rnd. Marking the beginning of the round can be as simple as keeping track of where the cast on tail is, which is at the beginning of the round, or a removable marker can be placed in the cast on edge which can be removed after the sock is finished. Work 15 rnds in kl, pi Rib. K I rnd with A. The ribbing can be shorter Cast On August - October 20 II

9 or longer based on personal preference. There will be notes here on how the second sock will differ from the first. If you are knitting one sock at a time, ignore the directions for the second sock until you are ready to work it. Leg Starting with B and Emerald Sock chart, rep chart 4 times across the 72 st rnd. Cont pat in rows until there are two chart reps (48 rows), then for 1st sock rep rows 1-9 once more, (for 2nd sock work rows 1-8 once more and then row 9 on the first needle only). Break B. When stranding the colors, be careful to leave enough yarn in the strand to allow the stitches to lay in their natural position without being bunched too closely together, but not so much that the stitches are too loose, especially where the work goes from one needle to the next. When working with 2 circular needles (or double pointed needles) turning the sock inside out as it is worked helps to keep the right amount of tension over the areas of the needle changes. While working stranded knitting, the design will look its best if the colors are always carried in the same manner. When changing, keep one color going over the top and the other always going under. If working with one color in each hand, this would mean not changing colors from one hand to the other. I like to keep the design color in my left hand. If holding both colors in the same hand, be sure to always keep the same one above the other. When working a stranded chart pattern, there is always a little mismatch where the row changes occur. In this pattern it is slightly noticeable. The socks are balanced by changing which side the heel flap is worked on, the "seam" sides will be opposite and can be worn facing the inner ankle if desired, mirroring each other. Heel Flap This heel flap is worked without using slipped stitches at the beginnings of the rows. This creates a much more even edge after the heel gusset stitches are picked up. Many people work their heel flaps by slipping the first stitch of each row so that the picked up stitches will be picked up in the slipped stitches instead, sometimes doing so creates uneven edge stitches once the gusset has been picked up. First sock- work over 36 sts on needle 1, Second sock - work over 36 sts on needle 2. Row I: With A, k across, turn. Row 2: Purl across, turn. Rep these 2 rows until there are 30 rows. Turn Heel Row 1: Sll, kl9, k2tog, kl, turn. Row 2: Sll, ps, ssp, p i, turn. Row 3: Sll, k6, k2tog, k1, turn. Row 4: Sll, p7, ssp, p l, turn. Cont this process, working one more st per row until there is one unworked stat ea end of needle. Heel Gusset When picking up and knitting stitches along the heel flap, stitches will be picked up and knit in the space between the last two stitches in the rows on the edge of the heel flap. The ratio for picking up the stitches is one stitch for each two rows of the heel flap. Sll, k9, pm, (marker designates new beg of rnds), k until2 sts rem on needle, k2tog. Starti ng with A, and alternating every other st, B, A, B, A, etc, pick up and k15 sts along heel flap edge (see TechnicaJ Tip above). Lift strand A from bet needles going from front to back, place on left needle, ktbl with A. Work in chart pat Row lo over 2nd needle keeping previous pat. With heel needle, pick up strand A bet needles going from front to back, place on left needle and ktbl with A. Pick up and ks sts along second edge of heel flap, pick up and kl st with A, then second with B, then A, B, A, B, etc, same as first edge, ssk with A. Cont alternating A, B pat to marker, sl marker- 56 sts on heel needle. When picking up the strand between two stitches, bring the left needle from the front to the back, under the strand between the two stitches. continued on page

10 continued on page 56 With the right needle knit this stitch through the back loop. This creates a twisted stitch. Be careful to not stretch this stitch while working. Sometimes it is difficult, because the full weight of the sock will be hanging from this one stitch. You may want to set the sock on your lap or on a table while working these stitches. Slip marker at end of each round. Rnd 1: Cont in est pat on heel needle until 2 sts rem, ssk with A. Work in chart pat across second needle. On heel needle with A k2tog, cont in est pat to marker, sl marker. Rnd 2: Work in pat to beg of rnd marker. Rnd 3: Cont in pat until 3 sts rem on heel need le, with B k2tog, k I A, work across second needle in pat, on heel needle, kl A, ssk B, cont in pat to marker. Rnd 4: Cont in pat with no decs. Rep Rnds 3 & 4 until36 sts rem on heel needle. Look at both sides of the gusset. There will be one with two sts of B tog next to the dec, work to that point and dec those two sts in pat. There will be 35 sts on heel needle and 36 sts on instep needle. By having an odd number of stitches for the bottom of the foot, the striped pattern will start and end with A and will be symmetrical. Foot Work until chart has been completed 4 times from Rib, rep rows 1 through 18 once more. Cont in pat to end of heel needle. Break B. As you are approaching the end of the charted section, try the sock on your foot. Now is the time to decide to shorten or lengthen the foot. Keeping in mind that the toe section will be two inches, check as you are knitting and either work fewer or more rows to fit your foot. As the sock is designed, the charted pattern is balanced between the cuff and toe and should fit most people. Rnd 2: K to end of heel needjc, kl, ssk, k to end ofrnd. Rnd 3: Kn it around. Rnd 4: K until 3 sts rem on heel needle, k2tog, kl, kl, ssk, k until3 st rem on instep needle, k2tog, kl, kl, ssk, k to marker. Rep rnds 3 & 4 until 21 sts rem on ca needje. 1 Work rnd 4 until 9 sts rem on ea needle. Remove marker, k rem sts on left needle. Break yarn leaving a 10" tail. Graft rem sts using Ki tchener st. Kitchener stitch toes without pointed ears. Thread the tapestry needle with the tail. With the stitches on two needles, held together so that the points of the needles are facing to the right, the front of the sock is facing you, and the working yarn is coming from the back needle - *using the tapestry needle, bring the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through letting the stitch fall off the knitting needle, then bring the tapestry needle through the next stitch purlwise, leaving the stitch on the knitting needle. Go to the back knitting needle and bring the tapestry needle through the first stitch as if to purl, letting the stitch fall from the knitting needle, and then through the next stitch as if to knit, leaving the stitch on Emerald Sock C hart 18 1 I 16 IS 1<1 l3 1l ll 10 9 ij 1 6 I r 1 the knitting needle. Repeat from * until 1 st rem on each needle. Remove the needles. Using the tip of the tapestry needle adjust the kitchenered stitches so that they match the surrounding stitches in gauge, then with the tail still threaded in the tapestry needle, place the needle through the top of the last kitchenered stitch into the inside of the toe, pull the needle and tail through and weave in the end. Snug up the yarn when moving between needles. Adjust the tension of the Kitchener stitches as needed to match the surrounding stitch tension. With the tapestry needle, take yarn down through the tip of the sock at the point where the last two stitches were kitchenered together. W eave in ends and block. Blocking transforms this yarn into a nice smooth fabric. Soak the sock in room temperature soapy water for 15 minutes, then rinse. Place the sock on an absorbent towel and then roll the towel up and press on the towel and sock. Unroll and then lay the sock on a flat surface, shape the sock to size, let dry. CSee sidebar Note on page 51.),, Toe Rnd 1: With A, k to beg of rnd. Legend: Color 8 CoiOC" A - 56 Cnsl On August- October 201 1