The sketch of the dress is given to you in drawing #1. It is like you see, a dress sort of half-japanese, half Watteau which is not difficult to make.

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William Washington
5 years ago
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1 1910 #5 Indoor Dress -- Robe d Interieur The sketch of the dress is given to you in drawing #1. It is like you see, a dress sort of half-japanese, half Watteau which is not difficult to make. The sketch of the back of the dress is in drawing #2. This is the one small difficulty of the design; it needs to be pleated with much precision. But by following exactly model #3, you will get there easily. For newcomers, who are numerous, I say again, that in cutting the patterns after having traced them, you do not have to worry about the seams. They are always included in the pattern, and the fabric to turn under is included between the outline and the dotted line which is exactly where the seam must go. The dress, made of one [length] to go [all the way down] at the back and on the sides, is in two pieces on the front: the yoke and the skirt. The yoke (fig. 4) is pleated. You will begin by cutting the pattern such as it is, then you will pleat it noting that the parts shaded with diagonal lines form the underside of each pleat and, consequently, are invisible, once the pleating is completed. This pattern #4 is only half of the yoke. The dotted line, which is at left (letter e), marks the edge of the front. The second side being the same as the first, you only have to place the pattern on the fabric folded double, or on two pieces placed wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side. Below and to the right, you see a small sketch depicting a pleated side of the yoke. [Editor: This illustration shows the yoke bound at the neckline and then pleated. I believe one should pleat the yoke and then bind the neckline.] Figure 5 (front of the dress) is to be placed on the fabric folded double, putting its dotted line (middle of the front) edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. You do not cut this side; the fabric, once opened, will give you the front of the dress of only one piece. Figure 3 is the pattern of the side that runs from the shoulder to the bottom of the skirt. We must place the skirt fabric folded double with two pieces placed wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side. Figure 3 is the back of the dress. It is a piece of fabric on the straight thread that you pleat following the instructions already given for the pleating of the yoke. The different parts of the dress prepared, it comes [time] to assemble them. The yoke, hemmed at the bottom, is joined to the sides by the shoulder seams. The width of the front, after having been edged with a bias of the same fabric or velvet, will be placed on the yoke and sewn underneath, and joined to the widths of the sides by the seams g h. The pleated back is joined to the widths of the sides by the seams i j.

2 The dress being thus assembled, you make the hem at the bottom; then to better mark the pleats, you iron the back through a damp cloth. The sleeves and the shawl collar remain. The sleeve is one piece. Trace and cut out the pattern following only its outlines, that-is-to-say ignoring, for the moment, the lines that are inside the drawing, and place this pattern on the fabric folded double, with the dotted line on the right edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. You will cut nothing on this side. Then, on one layer, you will remove the part of the fabric lying between the top bulging line and the concave line made of a continuous line, but crossed with small strokes. Do not confuse this line with the line of small crosses which mark the seam. You will cut the second sleeve by using the first as a template, but taking care to place them on top of one another wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side. Without this precaution, you would have two sleeves for the same arm, which would be irreparable, unless the fabric has no wrong side. The sleeve is mounted by placing its point A with point a of the yoke (small arrow). The collar is one piece; but for it to fit well it should be cut exactly in the shape given, this is what you will get by placing the pattern on the fabric as it is placed on the gray background of the drawing. The four lines of the framework of figure 1 represent, I remind you, the straight threads of the fabric. On a piece of fabric with straight threads on its four sides, and folded double, place the pattern of the collar by putting its dotted line which marks the middle of the collar and must be in the middle of the back edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. [Editor: Martha Waterman Nichols has tried this pattern and found that in order to achieve the draping shown in the finished sketch a pattern piece in the shape of a halfcircle is best. Her collar pattern for this dress can be found in the Yahoo group Bleuette Sewing Club s files.] Edge the collar on the side opposite the neck with a bias of satin or velvet, then sew the collar around the neckline. Translation copyright 2012 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale.

We will finish, today the dress begun in the last issue.

1907 #21 Robe D Ete -- Summer Dress We will finish, today the dress begun in the last issue. To be able to mount the skirt to the bodice, we need, first, to finish this last, by adding to the round yoke,