We will finish, today the dress begun in the last issue.

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Lester Oliver
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1 1907 #21 Robe D Ete -- Summer Dress We will finish, today the dress begun in the last issue. To be able to mount the skirt to the bodice, we need, first, to finish this last, by adding to the round yoke, the bolero yoke. Bolero yoke. On the finished dress (fig.1), it is this part which returns at the bottom of the yoke and with the figure of a right angle. Drawing #2 gives you the yoke in half, that-is-to-say which you will need two pieces similar, one for the right, one for the left. You will take care to put your two fabrics doubled wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side, or else the two pieces would be for the same side. When the fabric does not have a wrong side, that does not derive a consequence; but if it had one, it would be a piece lost. This bolero yoke is embroidered with chainstitch, like the round yoke. Now, let us learn, while passing, a principle to remember all the times that there are embroideries on the same cloth of any garment. One should not cut before having embroidered, but only draw the outline of the pattern on the fabric. When the cloth is embroidered, then only one cuts the fabric in the desired form. If you made it differently, you would expose yourselves to distorting the pattern, to fraying the edges, to make the piece unusable, which would be unpleasant after taking the trouble to embroider it. I have explained to you, in the preceding issue, how it was necessary to transfer the drawing on cotton fabric, with the aid of the blue greasy paper placed between the fabric and the tracing. If you make the dress in flannel, wool, silk or any other woolen, it is suitable to use another process. After having very carefully copied the drawing on very light tracing paper, you place this last on the fabric to embroider and fix it with a basting sufficient to maintain it well in place. Then you embroider your chainstitch following the traced copy and biting into the paper at the same time as the fabric. The embroidery finished, you gash the tracing with fine scissors and you remove it by bits, and with precaution, to not pull on the embroidery.

2 In copying the pattern of the bolero yoke, take good care to mark with a white or red thread the small arrows and the letters EFBAD, points of reference which we will use to assemble the dress. Let us prepare, now, the band of the front. It is on the drawing (fig.3) to the size wanted, folds included. At the bottom, it ends with a point of capuchin. It will also have to be embroidered before cutting it. It is a question, now, of placing the bolero following the round yoke. You will arrive there easily by consulting the concordant letters. The letters FB of the round yoke (see the last issue of the Semaine de Suzette) are connected with the letters FB of the bolero yoke (fig.2) and, with the back, the letters ED are connected with the same letters of the round yoke. As for the letter A which is in the middle of the curve of the seam of the bottom and which is accompanied by a small arrow, it is connected with the letter A of the top of the skirt (see the preceding issue of the Semaine de Suzette). The two yokes sewn the one to the other, we will proceed with the assembly of the skirt. For that, it is necessary that you have, before the eyes, the last issue of the magazine. Begin by hemming the skirt; then, taking the small flounce that we have prepared, that-is-to-say hemmed last week, pass, along its remaining free edge, a thread intended to gather it slightly to bring it back to the exact width of the skirt. You remember that we had given it three centimeters more than the circumference of the skirt. That done, you place the small flounce on the skirt, so the latter exceeds the height of its hem. See figure 1 dress finished, and you will completely understand. Now, make two rows of gathers, at the place indicated by the drawing (last issue of the Semaine de Suzette), by taking together the small flounce and the fabric of the skirt. You will give to this gathered the width necessary so that the dress can encircle Bleuette. Then taking the upper edge of the skirt, you will gather it so that it encircles exactly the yoke, taking care to make connect the letters AB of the skirt with the letters AB of the bolero yoke, and the letter C of the skirt with the letter C of the round yoke. Let us notice that the letter B o the skirt agrees with the letter B of the two yokes round and bolero because this letter B is found at the same point in the two yokes. The patte [mock placket] is placed in the middle between the two parts of the bolero, once the dress is assembled. The gathers hide under a belt of ribbons with drooping loops. Manche [Sleeve]. Figure 4 gives you half of it. It will thus be necessary, once the pattern has been cut out, to place this one on the fabric folded double taking care to put the side which carries these words: pli de l etoffe, droit-fil bord a bord avec le pli de

3 l etoffe [fold of the fabric, straight thread edge to edge with the fold of the fabric]. One will not cut on this side. Poignet de la manche [Sleeve cuff]. Here, a little attention is necessary: this cuff must be cut on the bias. The four lines of the framework are the straight threads of your piece of fabric. It will thus be necessary to place your patten on the square of cloth, as it is placed within the framework of the drawing (fig.5). Once cut, you fold it in two on the dotted line I, which must be on the true bias of the fabric, if you followed our instructions well. The two free edges are sewn together: it is the seam of the crook of the arm; the side folded is the side of the elbow. You sew the sleeve the length of the seam HG which must agree with the seam HJ of the cuff, that-is-to-say that the two letters H must be together. The letter I of the cuff must be connected with the letter I of the sleeve, and from H to I, you gather the sleeve as much as is necessary to bring it back to the measurement of the cuff, and you sew the one to the other. You will notice on the pattern of the sleeve (fig.4), at the top, two lines of small crosses. That indicates that the under part of the sleeve must be indented, that-is-to-say hollow. You will thus remove, on one of the sides of the sleeve, the fabric included between the outline and the first line of small crosses. The second line of small crosses shows the placement of the row of gathers which continues the hollow. In indenting your two sleeves, put them the one on the other, but wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side. Without this precaution, your two sleeves would be for the same arm. After having gathered the sleeve at the top, in order to give it the width of the armhole, you assemble it while taking care to make agree its point G with the point G of the bolero yoke. You rather slightly gather on the shoulder, in order to release a little the front and the back. To mask the junction of the bodice and the skirt, you put, as I mentioned to you above, a belt. If you do not have ribbons available, you can take fabric similar to the dress and you will embroider the tails in the same way that you have embroidered the dress. If the fabric chosen is a light lawn, you can decorate the tails with valenciennes [lace], or inlay a little of the valenciennes or tulle embroidered with chainstitch. In a word, use what you have at hand and do not importune your mothers. A skillful worker knows to make good use of all. Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale.

The sketch of the dress is given to you in drawing #1. It is like you see, a dress sort of half-japanese, half Watteau which is not difficult to make.

1910 #5 Indoor Dress -- Robe d Interieur The sketch of the dress is given to you in drawing #1. It is like you see, a dress sort of half-japanese, half Watteau which is not difficult to make. The sketch