Mini Prom Dress - Written Instructions Part 1

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1 Designed by Anni

2 Mini Prom Dress - Written Instructions Part 1 Once you master a few stitches and techniques, you will be able to create and design your own dresses. These pieces of art are time consuming and take patience but are not difficult to learn. They can be used with a half-slip sewn into the mesh on the inside of the garment or simply take lining silk fabric, in any color, using about 1-1/2 the width around the top of the dress as a measurement, fold the top down ½, hem it on the sides leaving the back button placket free, hem the bottom, gather slightly along the top, then sew it to the inside of the dress. Do not anticipate the pattern and read ahead, you will probably get confused. Just take it as it comes, I find it s always better to crochet that way. Materials No. 10 and No. 20 Cotton Thread in same color Hooks No. 4 and No. 8 2 Flat clear buttons, 2 decorative buttons (to fit on the inside and outside of the top band- 4 buttons) Optional Silk Lining Fabric Sewing Needle and thread The size will depend on how long you make the top band of the dress and how much fullness you want it to have. These instructions are using a size small as example. Top Band Starting at the top band for the dress, ch13 (counts as 12 stitches + 1 turning stitch). Row 1: Sc in 2 nd chain from the hook and in each chain across (total 12 sts.), turn. Row 2: Working in the back loops only, Ch1, sc in back loop of each st across, turn. Continuously count your stitches to be sure you have 12 as it is very easy to lose a stitch when working in the back loops. This forms a flexible band with ridges (1 ridge = 2 rows) Repeat row 2 until your piece measures the correct width plus 1-1/2 more for the button placket. The width for size small worked out to be 35 ½ and the additional placket makes it 37 total which fits on the dressform perfectly, overlapping the placket. One ridge (2 rows) before the end of the band create two buttonholes as follows.

3 Inside Buttonholes Make 2 Row 1: Ch4, skip 3 Sts, Sc in both loops of next 4 sts, ch4, sc in last st. turn Row 2: Ch1, 4sc in first loop, sc in each of next 4 sts, 4sc in next loop, sl st to end row. Row 3: Ch1, sl st in each of the 12 sts across. You should now be back to the long side of the work. Dress Body Right Side: Working in each row and ridge, sc across the entire 37 inch band. Keep your work taut so as to cover any openings or holes. This is an important row because this row becomes the base and will be worked in the front loops of each sc for the flounce (right side) and the back loops of each sc for the mesh grid (wrong side). When you reach the end, make buttonholes as follows: Outer Buttonhole Loops Make 2 Row 1: Working on the short side; Ch4, skip 3 sts, sc in both loops of next 4 sts, ch4, sl st in end stitch, turn. Row 2: Ch1, 4sc in first loop, sc in each of the middle 4 sts, 4sc in next loop, sl st in corner. You are now back on the corner, turn work to wrong side. Mesh Grid Row 1: Wrong Side; Using the same #10 Thread and same # 4 Hook, and working the FRONT Loops, Ch6, (counts as 1tr + Ch2); *skip 2 sts, tr in next st, ch2*; Repeat from * to* across, until you are 1-1/2 from the end (7 ridges), leave unworked for button placket closure, Turn. At this point you can sew on the buttons but DO NOT JOIN work; keep working back and forth in rows until the 10 th mesh row is complete. This will leave an opening in the back of the dress for easy access in putting on the dress. Rows 2 10: Continue working mesh as before. Your work should look like this

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5 The middle is the wrong side, this side will not show later. The right side has a more finished edge just before the mesh starts. You will be picking up Sts from the front of these loops later for the flounce. Row 11: Last Row of First Mesh Grid: Ch1, sc in first stitch, 2sc in mesh space *(sc in next tr, 2sc in next ch space)*. Repeat from * to * across; at end of row turn work so right side is facing you and join to beginning sc. Break thread, leaving a 6 tail to re-attach thread later for second mesh grid. You will now be working the next mesh grid in rounds. This last sc row forms the base for the next mesh grid and the next flounce tier (mesh grid worked in back loops, tier flounce worked in front loops). Row 12: Top Band Trim Turn work so right side is facing you and band is at bottom (upside down). Using # 8 Hook and #20 thread, start at back opening in front loops only under band, sc in first stitch, skip 2, dc in next three times, ch2, 3dc in same place, sl st in next; *(skip 2, 3dc in next stitch, ch2, 3dc in same place, sl st in next)* Continue across to end. This creates a nice finish under the top band. (see picture 1 below). Note: I am using #30 thread and #9 hook in the photos below for Flounce since I had it on hand; either is acceptable.

6 Mini Prom Dress - Written Instructions Part 2 Note: See above part 1, Rows 11 and 12 have been added (start with these two rows). First Flounce Ruffle Row 1: With right side facing, and working in front loops of sc stitches under the trim, attach thread; sc in first stitch, ch5 sc in next stitch twice and in each stitch across. This will give the give the ruffle fullness and volume. DO NOT join leave rows open for the entire first flounce. Rows 2 5: Continue making ch5 loops across (note: if you are using #30 thread you will need to make more rows as a guide your loops should measure as far as the third mesh grid with the loops relaxed do not pull them to reach the third mesh). Rows 6-10 Continue as before but making loops ch6 across. Rows 11-15: Continue as above but making loops ch7 across. Rows 16-20: Continue as before but making loops ch8 across. Row 21: Make one row of ch9 loops across. Break thread, weave in ends. First flounce is complete. (Use your own judgement here you may need another row or two of ch9 loops as everyone crochets differently. Flounces should be 1-1/2 inches below the mesh grid to cover the mesh or the grid will show when dress it is worn.) Second Mesh Grid With right side facing and working in back loops of mesh grid, change to #4 hook and attach #10 thread to 6 tail of grid and continue working mesh grid. Round 1- Increase Round: Ch6 (counts as tr + ch2), skip 2 stitches, tr in next. *Make 10 meshes total increase in the next mesh as follows (ch2, tr in mesh space, ch2 tr in next tr inc made)*. Repeat from * to * around, Join at end of round. Rounds 2-10: Continue making rounds on established number of meshes (do not increase again on these rounds). Round 11: Sc in each tr, 2sc in each mesh around, join. Break thread leaving a 6 tail. Second Flounce Ruffle Change to #8 hook and #20 thread

7 Round 1: Attach thread at back, using front loops of sc round of grid, ch5, sk 2, sl st in next PM (PM = place marker in this loop as ends of rows are hard to see when making loops in rounds). Continue making ch5 loops, ending by joining to beginning loop. RM (RM=Remove Marker). Rounds 2-5: PM in first loop, ch5 loops around, join, RM Rounds 6-10: PM in first loop, ch6 loops around, join, RM Rounds 11-15: PM in first loop, ch7 loops around, join, RM Rounds 16-20: PM in first loop, ch8 loops around, join, RM Round 21: PM Make one row of ch9 loops across. RM. Break thread, weave in ends. Second flounce is complete. Dress does not have to be blocked, but should be pressed with a warm iron so flounce stands out. (the photos below show flounce before ironing). Note: This dress can be a Mini or a Maxi dress depending on how many flounce ruffles are made. Just repeat Second Mesh Grid and Second Flounce Ruffle for each tier and stop at desired length. Last row of Mesh Grid can be finished with same trim as top band if desired. Straps Make 2 Using No. 8 hook and No. 10 thread Row 1: Ch5, tr in first chain repeat until 32 Loops. Row 2: Ch1, 6sc in first loop; sl st in fifth stitch (between loops); repeat to end of strap making 12sc in last loop, sl st in fifth stitch (between loops) on opposite side and continue down this side to end having 12 sc in the last loop. Row 3: With #9 hook, Ch3, skip 1, sl st in next 3 times along each loop, sl st between loops as before, around entire strap. Fasten off, weave in ends. Choose buttons (4 clear that will fit any of these loopholes). Sew buttons to inside of front, crisscrossing in back and inside of back of band. Strap is adjustable depending on which loophole is used. Make a second strap to match first. (Photos shown below). Many of you asked for this pattern. These are my own notes, and as I am not a pattern writer and it takes time to create instructions please let me know if you find an error. Anni320@aol.com Anni

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