Puzzle Dress. 2 models, Slim or Casual Tank top back or Razor back Eu size (US 4-24)
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1 2 models, Slim or Casual Tank top back or Razor back Eu size (US 4-24) This pattern is copyrighted, with all rights reserved. You may print copies of the PDF for your own use. You may not make duplicate copies of either the printed pattern, or the PDF file to share. You are not allowed to sell, trade, or share this pattern in any form. Small home based business are allowed to sell finished items made from this pattern.
2 Before you start: Read all instructions before starting project. Seam allowance is NOT included, add that where two pieces are sewn together. Do not add allowance where you re going to add binding. I usually have a seam allowance of 0.6 cm since I use a serger with a seam that is 0.5cm wide. If you wish to hem add seam allowance for that to the skirt. Pre-wash all fabrics before sewing to avoid color bleeding and shrinking. Measure the test square on the first page to make sure you printed correctly. It should measure exactly 3x3 cm (or 2x2 ) Make sure you are using the most up to date version of Adobe Reader. You will need: Sewing machine Scissors Thread Ballpoint needle (in machine) Wonder clips or pins Fabric Measuring tape Fabric requirements: The pattern does not include seam allowance. Remember that these measurements are without seam allowance! The tables below shows the fabric requirement height in cm. If you choose to use 1 fabric the total height is counted on a fabric with atleast 150cm of width. You may also need fabric for binding. 2
3 It is possible to print only certain sizes using the layers function in acrobat. Select the Layers tab. Unselect the sizes you do not want to print, leave the last layer selected and the size you wish to sew. When printing make sure your printer settings are set to Actual size and Auto portrait/landscape. The files can be printed on Letter and A4 Tape the pattern together as shown to the right. Tip: Cut off the top and left edge of each pattern piece. Line up each line so the triangles meet and form a diamond. Do not cut out pattern pieces before taping all of the pages together. 3
4 European sizes (cm): Storlek Brystvidde Midjemål Stussvidde US Sizes (inches): Size Bust Waist 25, , , , ,5 Hip 34, , , More photos of finished dresses and more of my designs are posted regularly on: (please tag #madebyruni when you post photos of your creations) Facebook: All my patterns are available for purchase at several of them are also available as physical prints for those who prefere that. More tutorials and options on: 4
5 Cut out all pieces If you are making the puzzle version, mark the pieces with a number to keep track of what piece should go where. Add seam allowance where needed. If you want to hem, remember to add seam allowance for that. Optional To keep track of each part I cut out one piece at a time and put the pattern piece with the number on top to not mix it up as I sew. Part 1+2 Start with the top. With part 1 right side up, put part 2 right side together with part 1 and sew together. 1+2 done Progress so far. 5
6 Add part 3 Part 3 right side up, add part 1+2 right sides together and sew. 1-3 done Progress so far after 3 is sewn to 1+2 Top and bottom Put away the top (part 1-3) for now and we will focus on the bottom (part 4-6) to make things easier. Part 4+5 Put part 4 and 5 right sides together as shown in the photo, sew together. 6
7 4+5 done With 4 and 5 done leave part 6 for now. 3+4 With the top right side up, add part 4 right side together with part 3. Sew together. Progress so far Now the puzzle is almost complete. Part 6 With the already sewn pieces right sides up, add part 6 to the bottom, right sides together. The point of the triangle touching the side of part 5 and the wide, shorter end of the triangle touching the side of part 4. Sew together (The photo shows it clearly) 7
8 Puzzle done The front puzzle should now look like this. Back piece If you choose to have the back as puzzle as well, repeat the steps above before proceeding to the next step. In this tutorial I chose to have a solid back piece. Shoulder seam Put front piece and back piece right sides together, pin and sew the shoulder seam. Tip: if using classic binding leave one shoulder seam open for now. Adding binding Add binding to the neckline and the arm opening on the side you sew the shoulder seam. For manual binding see page
9 Shoulder seam and side seam Sew the other shoulder seam and the side seam on the side you already added binding to the arm opening. Right sides together. Tip: use some temporary glue to keep the binding in place at the edges when you sew. Bind the arm opening Add binding to the last arm opening. Top complete Now the neckline and arm openings are complete. Before sewing the last side seam finish the skirt edge. Hem Fold up the extra seam allowance you added for the hem, and sew. 9
10 Almost done The dress so far with the finished hem Last side seam With the dress inside out, right sides together sew the last side seam. Tip: again use some temporary glue to keep the finsing in place at the edge. All done! Try on your dress. This is what the Casual, size 48 looks on my body that has size 48, 50, 52, so it is a little tighter than it should be at the bottom 10
11 Binding Classic edge binding. Start with measuring the pocket opening, hem or armhole depending on what you plan to attach binding to. Do some math. Mine measures 14cm (5.5 ) Take your measurement and multiply with 0.8 (or 0.75 if it is a very stretchy fabric) For me I get 14*0.75=10.5cm (size 92/2t) So I cut 2 pieces that are 10.5*4 (length*height) since I am binding pocket openings. Pin and sew. With right sides together, pin the edges together first then stretch the band to fit and pin where needed. Sew together. Fold over. This will create a rather thin band, I will show a different way I do when I want a wider band on the next page. Pin in place and sew using a stretch stitch. I like to use a ordinary small zig zag. 11
12 Binding Clean up. Cut of the excess fabric (or next time remember to cut about 3 cm instead for this one). Check out your awesome handy work and move on to sewing the pockets or side seams. For a wider band. Before I fold over I just use a straight stitch at the width I want the finished band to be. Fold over. The result is this after folding over. Sew using a stretch or decorative stitch as before. Finished! 12
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