1 Copyright 2014 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

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Marshall Fletcher
5 years ago
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1 Fabrics by the fabulous Art Gallery Fabrics Top: Tree Fleur Blanc in Knit/Cherie Line by Frances Newcombe Bottom: Les Points Rose in Knit/Cherie Line by Frances Newcombe Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

The Fiddlehead Top is a simple to sew, slim fit top,

beautifully atop a 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve, as well,

So feminine and versatile, simple but anything but

from our Sassafras Skirt all the way to your girl s

It whips up so quickly that it is sure to become a

2 The Fiddlehead Top is a simple to sew, slim fit top, featuring a fun, eye catching flutter sleeve and bateau neckline. The flutter can be the sleeve, itself, or can sit beautifully atop a 3/4 sleeve or long sleeve, as well, for year around appeal. So feminine and versatile, simple but anything but boring, this top is the perfect topper for everything from our Sassafras Skirt all the way to your girl s favorite skinny jeans. It whips up so quickly that it is sure to become a wardrobe staple. Our testers rock! Just look at all this awesome inspiration. You are going to have fun with this one. 2 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

3 HEM ALLOWANCE the Fiddlehead Flutter Top Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Cutting Lines for 3/4 Length Sleeve Version HEM ALLOWANCE HEM ALLOWANCE the Fiddlehead Flutter Top How to Use This LilyGiggle Pattern Step - Separate the pattern pages from the tutorial pages. The pattern pages can be found after all the details and instructions. There is no need to print the tutorial. You can save some trees and ink by reading it on your computer or other mobile device. Step 2 - Print the pattern pieces. Be sure that your printer settings say to NOT scale or reduce/enlarge images. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Please see your printer owner s manual if you need help with this step. Our pages are set up with a border around all pages, so you should be able to print the entire page without anything getting cropped off even if using A4 paper. Again - PRINT EVERYTHING at 00%. If you would like to print just one particular size there are detailed instructions for that on the following page. No need to print out a size 2 if you only need a size 2! Step 4 - Before taking the time to cut out the pattern pages, measure the large purple square on the first pattern page. It should measure exactly 2. If it does not then the pattern has not printed accurately and will not be usable. Check all of your printer settings and print again. Step 5 - Cut around the light gray border. I use a paper cutter for this. If you have one on hand it works a lot faster than scissors and gives a more accurate edge. Step 6 - Line up the pattern. We use dots at the corners of the pages in order to help you align everything and get it all put together properly. We are also including a diagram below to help out. If you match stuff up and you have a dot that is one color on one half and another color on the other, you ve got them wrong. It should be pretty easy. To help even more, each page is also numbered. Step 7 - Tape everything together. Be sure to run your tape from edge to edge of the whole pattern so that when you cut everything out, it stays together where it s supposed to. Please make sure this measures Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Place on Fold 2 Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) FRONT TOP CUT on fold Place on Fold SLEEVE CUT 2 ON FOLD CUT on fold Top Flutter CUT 2 ON FOLD the Fiddlehead Flutter Top Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) the Fiddlehead Flutter Top Bottom Flutter CUT 2 ON FOLD Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) the Fiddlehead Flutter Top BACK TOP Step 8 - You re ready to get cutting your fabric & get to sewing! This pattern, tutorial and all imagery and photography is the exclusive property of LilyGiggle and is copyrighted. All rights reserved. Any portion of this pattern or tutorial may not be used, whole or in part, without express written permission. You may not resell this pattern, tutorial, or any portion thereof. You may make clothing using this pattern, and you may resell those clothes, but you may not resell this pattern. We would appreciate letting the world know that you used a LilyGiggle pattern. It helps us to keep doing what we love. 204 LilyGiggle. All rights reserved. lilygiggle.etsy.com 3 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

4 How to print only one size at a time You can customize the size or sizes you would like to print very simply with this pattern.. Determine the size you need following the LilyGiggle size chart on the next page. Scroll through the tutorial until you find the page where the actual pattern pieces begin. 2. Find the Layers icon to the left side on your PDF. When you click on it you will see the name of the pattern. Beside the name with be a plus sign icon. Click on the icon. You will see all of the sizes listed. 3. Click on the tiny little Visibility icon that looks like an eye next to each size that you DO NOT want to print. You will notice that they disappear like magic from the PDF. Do not click on the bottom KEEP VISIBLE layer. You need this one with all of the sizes so that you have your paper cutting lines. 4. Print the pieces following the directions on the previous page. Be sure you just print the page range that the actual pattern pieces are on, unless you want to print the tutorial as well. 4 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

5 This LilyGiggle pattern is based on the following size chart. It is always wise to double check your child s measurements before choosing size. The pattern should be cut out according to size, not age of child. Size Chart Size Height Chest Waist Hip Finished Garment Measurements Size Chest Hip Sleeve Length (Long) Back Length For A Custom Fit Since children come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, use the following instructions to customize your patterns for a perfect fit. Find the waist and/or chest measurement that most closely matches your child (go up if in between) and then cut all pattern pieces out in that size, but adjusting the length to the age or normal clothing size of the child. For instance, if the chest measurement of your normally sized 3 year child matches that of 5 years on the size chart then cut out all pattern pieces at size 5 years, but cut the length of the pieces at 3 years. The diagram to the right shows how to do this. The bold red line is highlighting where to cut. Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) FRONT TOP CUT on fold HEM ALLOWANCE 5 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

6 Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Fabric Requirements 58/60 stretch knit Size Sleeveless 3/4 Sleeve Long Sleeve -/8 -/8 -/4 -/4 -/2 Recommended fabrics include cotton/lycra blends, medium weight jersey or interlock. You will also need: ~Polyester Thread ~Ballpoint Needle or Stretch Needle Cutting Layout Diagram. Fold over just enough fabric to fit the FRONT TOP piece on the fold. BACK TOP CUT on fold HEM ALLOWANCE the Zephyr Top Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) the Zephyr Top Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Selvedge Selvedge 2. Fold again just enough fabric to fit the BACK TOP piece on the fold. Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Selvedge Selvedge 3. Fold again just enough fabric to fit the SLEEVES. FRONT TOP CUT on fold HEM ALLOWANCE FOLD SLEEVE CUT 2 ON FOLD Cutting Lines for 3/4 Length Sleeve Version HEM ALLOWANCE FOLD SLEEVE CUT 2 ON FOLD Cutting Lines for 3/4 Length Sleeve Version Selvedge HEM ALLOWANCE 4. With the leftover fabric, fold over again to cut the FLUTTERS. Be sure that you are still folding selvedge to selvedge. FOLD 6 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

Preparing your pattern After you have everything printed, cut out and taped together it should look something like this.

If you printed all the sizes at once but only need a particular size, you can trace the pattern pieces you want to make

Disclaimer-I do not recommend ironing it to fine fabrics and, if in doubt, test it first on a small piece of your fabric.

Preparing Your Fabric ~ Be sure to wash and dry all fabric before cutting.

7 Preparing your pattern After you have everything printed, cut out and taped together it should look something like this. What I really like about it is that it can be ironed on to the fabric to avoid pinning and make cutting easier. If you printed all the sizes at once but only need a particular size, you can trace the pattern pieces you want to make from the original pattern onto freezer paper first. Love this stuff and you can get it just about anywhere! Disclaimer-I do not recommend ironing it to fine fabrics and, if in doubt, test it first on a small piece of your fabric. I have had no problems using it on any knits or quilting cottons and have never had issues with residue. Preparing Your Fabric ~ Be sure to wash and dry all fabric before cutting. This will remove sizing (the chemicals sprayed on the fabric during manufacturing to keep it all crisp) and keep your finished garment from shrinking. Be sure to transfer all relevant markings, includinghow many pieces to cut out, size & hem allowance. ~This pattern uses a 3/8 seam allowance. The seam allowance is already added to the pattern pieces. 7 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

8 Special Tips for Sewing with Stretch Knits ~Stretch knit fabrics will not fray so you don t have to finish the inside seams. ~If not using a serger, use a ball point, stretch or jersey needle and double-stitch your seams (shown below). You will want to use a looser stitch (stitch length 3-3.5) than on a woven because you want the stitches to have some stretch. ~Use polyester thread. ~When sewing a straight seam you want to gently stretch the seam as you sew, especially on knits that roll like jersey and single knits. The more stretch the fabric has the more you will want to stretch your seam. Your machine may have a built-in stretch stitch. Check your manual if you are unsure. ~You may prefer to use a narrow zig zag stitch (width ) instead. This will give the seam the stretch that it needs so you don t need to stretch while sewing. This is my personal favorite way to sew knits on the sewing machine. No fuss. ~Be careful not to stretch your fabric while pressing or while cutting. It is very important not to pull your garment out of shape. ~The hem can be the trickiest part especially if you are working with very stretchy fabric. To keep your hemline from growing you should use a longer stitch. Be sure and steam press well to shrink back in place. ~If you are sewing your stretch knit garment on a serger with differential feed, do not stretch while sewing. ~Spray starch on the seams can make them easier to sew. ~Use a fresh needle for each garment. ***To double- stitch, simply sew a second row of stitching /8 from your first line of stitching. 8 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

Quick Sew Instructions If you are an experienced seamster and ready to tackle this top without looking at every photo or if you have sewn it before and just need a refresher, here are the steps.

9 Quick Sew Instructions If you are an experienced seamster and ready to tackle this top without looking at every photo or if you have sewn it before and just need a refresher, here are the steps.. Sew front to back at shoulder seams. 2. Serge the neckline, fold over /4 and sew. This pattern, with its bateau neckline, is best with a simple turned finish. 3. Do the lettuce edging on the ruffles, if desired. If the ruffle piece were a rainbow, do not lettuce edge the top of the rainbow because this is the edge that will attach to the armhole. Lettuce edge all 4 ruffles (PAGES -2). 4. Run a basting stitch along that non-finished side of the ruffle and gather. Do this to all 4 ruffles. 5. Place the top ruffle on top of the bottom ruffle. Run a basting stitch along that non-finished side of the ruffles and gather. Repeat for the other armhole ruffles. 6. Hold the ruffles up to the armhole and manipulate the gathers until they are spaced evenly along the entire armhole. 7. Place the ruffles on the armholes RST, making sure the top ruffle is sandwiched between the top and the bottom ruffle. 8. If adding a sleeve, place the sleeve RST directly on top of the ruffles, sandwiching the ruffles between the sleeve and armhole. 9. Sew the ruffles onto the armhole or sew the ruffles and sleeve onto the armhole. 0. Sew the side seam, just be sure that you are catching the very end of the ruffle in the side seam, only the part where the ruffle meets the edge of the armhole.. Finish hem and sleeves ( if used) 9 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

Let s sew!. Begin by placing the FRONT TOP piece on a flat surface with the right side facing up.

If you are not using a serger, you may like to run a zigzag stitch all the way around or you canjust leave the edge raw.

Now take the BACK TOP piece and place it directly on top but with the right side of the fabric facing down.

10 Let s sew!. Begin by placing the FRONT TOP piece on a flat surface with the right side facing up. How to do the Simple Turned Neckline This neckline is straightforward and easy to do and for this bateau neck top, it is my favorite finish. 3. If using a serger, go ahead and serge all the way around the neckline before going on to the next steps. If you are not using a serger, you may like to run a zigzag stitch all the way around or you canjust leave the edge raw. It s up to you. 2. Now take the BACK TOP piece and place it directly on top but with the right side of the fabric facing down. Now your pieces are right sides together. Pin at the shoulder seams. Sew where pinned. Finish seam if desired. Press toward back of top. 4. With the top inside out, turn the neckline down approximately /4 and press all the way around. Ready for the neckline? Don t worry., it s easypeasy. 0 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

5. Take the top back over to your sewing machine and stitch down the neckline fold /8 from the inside edge.

I highly recommend using that narrow zig zag stitch here for best results. Sew slowly and carefully.

Grab one of the 4 FLUTTER ruffle pieces and create a lettuce edging along 3 of the 4 edges.

The more you stretch, the more lettuce-y the edge will be. How to do Lettuce Edging (Optional) If you would like to add the lettuce edging, now is the time.

11 5. Take the top back over to your sewing machine and stitch down the neckline fold /8 from the inside edge. If you stretch the neck while sewing it may ripple so hold the fabric flat and smooth as it feeds through the machine. I highly recommend using that narrow zig zag stitch here for best results. Sew slowly and carefully. After it is sewn, press with a hot, steamy iron and you should have a beautiful neckline finish. 6. Grab one of the 4 FLUTTER ruffle pieces and create a lettuce edging along 3 of the 4 edges. On a serger: Set your machine to do a rolled hem and stretch the ruffle piece as you are feeding it through the machine. The more you stretch, the more lettuce-y the edge will be. How to do Lettuce Edging (Optional) If you would like to add the lettuce edging, now is the time. To help in your decision here are some tester samples... without lettuce edging (tissue weight knit) with lettuce edging On a sewing machine: It s a good idea to, first, cut a scrap of your fabric and do a test since the settings can differ depending on what machine you use. The stitch width should be set at 5 or so (as wide as mine gets) and the stitch length should be taken down low, possibly as low as it goes. I take mine down to. Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

When finished, trim the fabric up to the zig zag stitches.

You can also sew right on the edge of the fabric and then you won t need to trim.

Repeat the lettuce edging technique on all 4 flutter ruffles. 8.

12 Sew /4 from edge of ruffle. Stretch the fabric behind and in front of the presser foot as you sew. When finished, trim the fabric up to the zig zag stitches. Use sharp scissors and be careful not to cut the stitching. You can also sew right on the edge of the fabric and then you won t need to trim. Either way is fine. 7. Repeat the lettuce edging technique on all 4 flutter ruffles. 8. Place the TOP FLUTTER ruffles on top of the BOTTOM FLUTTER ruffles, lining up the unfinished edges. Pin. Sew a basting stitch (bump up the stitch length to its longest setting and don t backstitch) along the pinned edge, approximately /4 from the edge. (Continue for the proper gathering method or skip ahead a bit for my current favorite cheat. 2 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

9. Very gently pull one of the 2 threads at the end of the basting stitches to gather the piece and create the ruffle. 0.

armhole. Be sure that the shorter, TOP FLUTTER ruffle is facing the top, sandwiched between the top and the BOTTOM FLUTTER ruffle.

Begin sewing while pushing gently up against the spool of thread with your thumb. This causes the strip to gather while sewing.

. SLEEVELESS VERSION: Pin. Sew the flutter ruffles to the armhole. Press the seam allowance towards the inside of the top.

13 9. Very gently pull one of the 2 threads at the end of the basting stitches to gather the piece and create the ruffle. 0. After gathering, lay the flutter ruffles on the armhole of the top and adjust the gathers until each ruffle fits nicely along the edge of the armhole. Be sure that the shorter, TOP FLUTTER ruffle is facing the top, sandwiched between the top and the BOTTOM FLUTTER ruffle. Favorite Ruffle Hack Bump your tension up to its highest setting and your stitch length to its longest. Begin sewing while pushing gently up against the spool of thread with your thumb. This causes the strip to gather while sewing. It can be a bit tricky and you might need to practice but once you get the hang of it, you will zip through gathering these strips with ease.. SLEEVELESS VERSION: Pin. Sew the flutter ruffles to the armhole. Press the seam allowance towards the inside of the top. Repeat with the other armhole. Just keep in mind that, if you apply too much pressure, the machine will come unthreaded and if you apply too little, the fabric will not gather properly. Skip to the next page... 3 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

SLEEVE VERSION: Mark the center of your sleeve by

Open up the sleeve piece and line up the mark on

the sleeve with the armhole shoulder seam right

The ruffles should be sandwiched in between the

ALL VERSIONS: Turn the top wrong side out and pin

14 SLEEVE VERSION: Mark the center of your sleeve by lightly pressing the iron to it. Open up the sleeve piece and line up the mark on Now pin the ends of the sleeve cap to each end of the armhole. Sew and press seam. Repeat steps with other armhole and sleeve. the sleeve with the armhole shoulder seam right sides together. The ruffles should be sandwiched in between the armhole and the sleeve. Pin. 2. ALL VERSIONS: Turn the top wrong side out and pin the side and sleeve seams (if applicable) together. 4 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

As you pin, be sure that you catch only the very edge of the ruffle in the seam.

Sew & Press. 4. Hem the top and the sleeves ( allowance). You are finished!

I really hope that you enjoyed making LilyGiggle s Fiddlehead Flutter Top.

15 As you pin, be sure that you catch only the very edge of the ruffle in the seam. Push the rest of it away from the edge so that you don t catch it when you sew. C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S! 3. Sew & Press. 4. Hem the top and the sleeves ( allowance). You are finished! Go find your favorite little lady and show her what you made! I really hope that you enjoyed making LilyGiggle s Fiddlehead Flutter Top. Please remember that if you have any questions or comments, please me at lilygiggle@gmail.com. For instant downloads and pattern bundle pack offers of LilyGiggle patterns please visit 5 Copyright 204 LilyGiggle. All Rights Reserved. Unauthorized Duplication Prohibited.

16 Please make sure this measures 2

17 e on Fold hould run parallel to selvedge) 2 SLEEVE CUT 2 ON FOLD

18 3

19 4

20 the Fiddlehead Flutter Top FRONT TOP CUT Place on Fold Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) on fold

21 Grainline ( Pla 6 HEM ALLOWANCE the Fiddlehead Flutt er Top Cutting Lines for 3/4 Length Sleeve Version

22 7 Grainline (should run parallel to selvedge) Place on Fold BACK TOP CUT on fold

23 the Fiddlehead Flutter Top

24 Grain line (s hould l to se ) e lvedg Fold lle n para ru n e o Plac HEM ALLOWANCE 9 er t t u l F Top LD O F N O CUT 2 th e Fid d

25 dle he ad Fold n o e Plac Flu tte r To p ho Grainline (s uld run pa edge) rallel to selv 0 Bo CU

26 th e Fid dle ottom Flutter UT 2 ON FOLD he ad Flu tte r To p

27 HEM ALLOWANCE 2

How to Use This LillyGiggle Pattern

How to Use This LillyGiggle Pattern Step 1 - Print this entire packet. Be sure that your printer settings say to NOT scale or reduce/enlarge images. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Please see your printer owner