retro travel bag sewing patterns Materials List:

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3 sewing patterns M Supplies Needed Materials List: Fabric: 1 yard of cotton fabric, pattern is suitable for laminated fabrics, cotton fabrics such as quilting weight cotton, light weight home decor fabric. Not suitable for stretch fabric. 1 yard fabric for bag lining 1/2 yard fabric for inside bag pocket 1/2 yard fabric for outside bag pocket 1/2 yard fabric for view B purse handles 1/4 yard of fabric (or fat quarter) for purse handle tabs if making view A Interfacing: 1 yard 45 wide Fusible Fleece 1 yard 20 wide Medium Weight interfacing 1 1/2 yards 20 wide Heavyweight fusible interfacing such as Thermoweb Heavyweight Non Woven Interfacing OR Pellon Flex Foam Interfacing. (note if you are making the bag from laminate fabric purchase sewn in interfacing, not fusible). Handle Options, pick one: 2 purchased purse handles for view A OR 2 yards 1 wide cotton webbing for sewn view B Handles OR 1 wide Leather Belt Blank that is at least 48. Leather hole punch, 1/2 leather rapid rivets and setting tool, 1 piece of plastic canvas. Notions: 30 metal zipper 3 14 metal zipper for outer pocket 2 packages of bias piping 1 package of extra wide double fold bias tape 1/2 yard 1 wide ribbon (if using purchased purse handles) Sewing Machine Notions: Teflon Foot, if sewing with laminated/coated fabric. Cording Foot Zipper Foot Walking Foot Recommended: Micro Tex Needle Miscellaneous: Spray Paint (if you want bamboo handles another color) Basting Spray/ Glue Stick Piece of interfacing or tissue paper to trace pattern pieces Fabric Safe Marking Pen Binding Clips Cutting Directions: Print Bag Pattern Pieces and assemble (last pages of this PDF). Make sure when you print your page scaling in Acrobat is set to NONE. To ensure that it is printing the correct size, measure the test square with a ruler after it s printed. It should be 1. Match numbered squares and tape together to assemble. (refer to instructions on page 13) From the Heavyweight Interfacing or Pellon Flex Foam Cut: 2 pieces from Bag Outside Piece 1 piece from Bag Bottom Piece From the Fusible Fleece Interfacing Cut: 1 piece 6 x 26 2 pieces using bag pattern piece M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

4 1 piece from Bag Pattern Piece folded down at the POCKET line on the pattern piece. From the Medium Weight Interfacing Cut: 2 pieces from Zipper Panel Piece 8 handle tab pieces each 2 x 2 1/2, if using purchased purse handles as in view A 1 piece from Bag Outside Pocket Piece, Transfer all pattern markings (including center front) onto non fusible side of the interfacing. From the Bag Outside Fabric Cut: 2 pieces using the Bag Pattern Piece; transfer all outside pocket markings (including center front) from the pattern piece to the right side of one of the bag outside pieces. 2 pieces from Zipper Panel Piece 1 piece from Bag Bottom Pattern Piece. side of the fabric, or use a pressing cloth. If sewing with laminate or other coated fabric and a portion of your sewing foot touches your laminate fabric it may cause the fabric to not feed evenly. Place a bit of scotch tape over the part of the foot that touches the laminate fabric to make it glide easier. I do not recommend fusing any interfacing the wrong side of a laminated or coated fabric. Instead loosely adhere interfacing using spray baste, which will secure the interfacing during the bag construction process. If you purchased fusible interfacing you can still use it, just do not fuse it to the fabric. Be careful, metal zippers get very hot when ironed. step 1: attach piping From the Lining Fabric Cut: 2 pieces from Bag Pattern Piece 2 pieces from Zipper Panel Piece 1 piece from Bag Bottom Piece From Inside Bag Pocket Fabric Cut: 2 pieces from Bag Pattern Piece folded down at the POCKET line on the pattern piece. From Bag Outside Pocket Fabric Cut: 2 pieces using bag outside pocket piece. If using purchased purse handles cut: 8 handle tab pieces each 2 x 2 1/2 (note: you can change the size of these handle tab pieces if you need to fussy cut an image for the front). For Sewn Purse Handles Cut from Handle Fabric: 2 pieces from Handle Pieces 2 pieces each 24 long from purchased webbing. Construction All seam allowances are 1/2 unless otherwise noted. Important TIPs: If you are sewing with Laminated/Coated Fabric you do not want to EVER touch your iron to the right side of the fabric. You will always need to press the wrong 4 Fuse the fusible fleece interfacing to the wrong side of the bag outside pieces. If you are sewing with laminated fabric, use spray baste to secure fabric to the interfacing. Using a piping/cording foot (or sometimes a zipper foot will work) stitch your piping to the edge of the bag. The raw edge of the piping will be lined up with the raw edge of the bag. Make sure as you stitch on your piping that your needle is hitting close to the existing stitching line on the piping. You may need to adjust your needle right or left to get a proper position. For this step I find it easiest to pin as I go rather than M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

5 to pin the piping all down at once, but do whatever is easiest for you. Fold under the raw edges at the end, feed in the remainder of the piping from the other end, and stitch the overlapped ends to the bag. Repeat for other bag outside piece. step 2: construct zipper panel Apply the fusible fleece interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper panel pieces cut from the bag outside fabric. When you get back to where you started, clip the piping so it is even with the stitched down piping. Apply the medium weight interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper panel pieces cut from the lining fabric. Unpick the stitches from the tail of piping you left at the beginning. Unwrap the cord and clip the cord out of this piece. Pin the right side of the zipper to the right side of one of the zipper panel outside pieces. Next, pin the zipper panel lining piece on top of the previously pinned pieces. The right side of the lining will be facing the right side of the fabric. Stitch using a 1/4 seam and a zipper foot. Repeat for other side of zipper. After you have sewn both sides of the zipper, press the fabric pieces away from the zipper and top stitch along both sides of the zipper close to the edge of the fabric. If you are using laminated/coated fabric you will want to use a teflon foot for this step. 5 M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

6 Measure the width of the sewn zipper panel piece. It should be 6 wide. If it is wider than 6 trim it, making sure to keep the zipper in the center of the trimmed piece. Pin a 6 long strip of piping to each end of the zipper panel piece, raw edges facing.stitch in place using your cording foot. Pull the outside pocket piece to the wrong side of the bag outside piece through the rectangle you just cut. step 3: construct outer pocket Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of one of the pocket outside pieces. Pin the marked bag outside pocket piece to the right side of the marked bag outside piece, right sides facing. Stitch along the marked rectangle on the pocket pattern piece. Press well. Cut out the inside of the rectangle (you will cut through all layers of the fabric and interfacing, close to the stitching line.) 6 Pin the zipper to the wrong side of the bag outside piece so that the zipper fits in the opening you just created. M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

7 Stitch the zipper in place using a zipper foot. You will stitch around the perimeter of the rectangle close to the folded edge of the fabric. (You can use a bit of UHU, or Elmers School glue to hold the zipper in place if you need to). Pin the second bag outside pocket piece to the sewn bag outside pocket piece, right sides facing. Stitch around all 4 sides, being careful not to catch the bag in the stitching. Clip corners. Turn right side out and press. Turn under the top seam (un sewn seam) 1/4 and press but do not sew it yet. Cut a piece of ribbon to 2. Fold in half and stuff down the tab, so that about 1/2 is showing above. Step 4A: view a handle tabs Make tabs to attach the purse handles for VIEW A Handles: (View B, skip this step) The placement of the tabs on the bag will depend on the handles you choose. Pin the tabs to the bag 1 down from the piping and lined up so the handle will be in the center. Fuse medium weight interfacing to the back of 4 of the 8 handle tab pieces. Place 2 fabric pieces (one fused and one not) right side together and sew around 3 sides, leaving the top open. 7 Stitch around 4 sides of tab, double stitching over the top piece. The ribbon should now be secured in the tab. Attach handles according to package directions, after the bag is completed. M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

8 step 4B: view b bag straps Repeat the same steps for both bag strap pieces. Note: if you purchased nylon webbing for the straps, make sure you DO NOT touch it with your iron. You will need to use a pressing cloth. You can also leave the straps uncovered. Flip the fabric up and lightly press. Fold the ends of the fabric over the raw ends of the webbing. Press well and pin. Fold under the unsewn long edge of the fabric 1/4 and press. Fold the fabric over the strap so that the folded edge of the fabric is even with the edge of the strap. Secure in place using binding clips. Pin the fabric to the webbing piece right sides facing with 1/4 of the fabric extending past the edge of the end of the webbing. Stitch the bag strap piece to webbing piece. You will stitch the pieces together right sides facing, along one of the long sides with a 1/4 seam allowance. To help the fabric feed more evenly, have the webbing piece facing UP and the fabric facing the feed dogs of the sewing machine. Top stitch down both sides of the strap close to the edge. Be sure to catch all the fabric as you sew. If you have a walking foot for your sewing machine it will be helpful for this step. Pin the sewn straps to the sewn bag pieces 3 off of center, and 1 1/2 down from the piping on the bag. Stitch in place by sewing a square with an X through the middle. step 5: sew bag outside 8 M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

9 Apply heavyweight interfacing to the wrong side of the bag bottom piece. not the length of the zipper. Stitch one short end of the bag bottom to your zipper panel piece, along the stitching line you used to attach the piping to the zipper panel piece. Leave the other end open for now. (you will eventually have a big circle piece) Find the center of the top of one of your bag pieces and mark it with a pen. Find the center of your zipper piece and mark it with a pen. Matching centers begin pinning the top of the bag piece to zipper piece, right sides together. Finish pinning and stitch zipper piece/bag bottom to bag. After you have pinned the zipper panel/bag bottom piece to the bag outside piece, stitch together. Here s a tip to make your piping look great on the outside. You know that stitching line you made to attach the piping the first time? Just sew right on top of that same stitching line. That way you know that your piping will be in the right spot. Unzip the zipper half way. When you get to the other side (the part of the bag bottom not attached to the zipper piece) note where the two pieces should meet and adjust the length of the bag bottom piece as necessary. Stitch the bag bottom to the other side of the zipper piece. Mark the center of your other bag piece. Pin it to the other side of the zipper piece and stitch as you did in the previous step. You should now have a completed outside bag. Clip rounded corners. Step 6: construct bag lining Iron the heavy weight interfacing onto the 2 bag lining pieces. Iron fusible fleece onto one of the bag pocket pieces. Note: adjust only the length of the bag bottom piece, 9 Iron the 6 x 26 fusible fleece interfacing onto the bag lining bottom piece, matching the center of the bag bottom piece with the center of the interfacing piece. You will have 2 of fabric on each end that does not have interfacing. This is correct. M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

10 Pin interfaced and non interfaced pocket inside pieces wrong sides facing. Using a piece of double fold bias tape finish the top edge of the pocket piece. To attach the bias: Open up the double fold bias tape. Pin the bias to the raw edge of the pocket top so that the raw edge of the bias tape is even with the raw edge of the pocket. Stitch in place close to the 1st fold in the bias tape. Pin one of your bag pieces to your bag lining bottom piece, right sides together. Match the centers. Stitch bag lining bottom to bag piece. START stitching where the interfacing is on your bag bottom piece, and finish stitching where the interfacing ends on the other side of the bag bottom. You will have approx 2 of fabric on each side of the bag bottom piece that is not attached to the bag. Refold the bias tape. Stitch bias tape close to the fold to finish. Repeat with the other bag lining piece, but this time leave a 4 opening in the center of the seam so that you can turn the bag right side out after it is constructed. Again, make sure you match your centers. Clip curves. Trim seam allowance down to 1/8. step 7: assemble the bag Make sure the centers of your bag pieces and bag lining pieces are marked and visible. Turn the bag piece and bag lining piece wrong side out. Place pocket piece onto the right side of one of your bag lining pieces and baste in place. If desired stitch lines into the pocket to divide pocket. Find the center (lengthwise) of your bag lining bottom piece, mark it on both the top and the bottom. Find the center top and bottom of your 2 bag lining pieces, mark. Pin the top of one side of the bag lining piece to the top of one side of the bag outside piece, the right sides of the lining will facing and the raw edges should be flush. Stitch together making sure to stitch along the same stitching line you used to attach the piping in step 1. You will start and stop stitching where the bag bottom lining piece stitching starts and stops (you don t stitch through the bag bottom lining piece twice). 10 M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

11 Pin the other side of the bag to the other side of the lining. Stitch in place. Punch one hole in both ends of each leather straps, in the location you marked. Trim all seam allowances down to a scant 1/8. Turn right side out. To finish the bag, fold down the 2 piece of fabric (on your bag bottom lining piece that does not have interfacing behind it). Pin it to the bag and hand stitch the bag opening closed. Cut out four 1 x 1 pieces from the plastic canvas. Feed the wrong side of one of the rivets through the center of one of the pieces of plastic canvas. Repeat for other 3 rivet pieces. (note: you can cover the plastic canvas with fabric before this step if you don t want to leave it uncovered on the inside of your bag. Stitch the opening in the bag bottom lining closed. step 8: leather straps Cut two pieces of leather each 20 long. Place a mark at each end of the leather 1 1/2 up from the end and centered on the strap. Using a fabric safe marking pen place marks on the both sides of the bag each 4 off of center, and 1 1/2 down from the piping on the bag. 11 M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

12 If you have any questions or concerns during the construction process, feel free to me at: Also be sure to check out my blog for lots of great sewing patterns, tutorials and creative ideas! Place the leather handle on top of the bag front so that the punched in the leather strap is over the mark you made on the front of the bag. Cut a small hole in the bag through all the layers of fabric at the marked locations. Feed a leather rivet through the bag strap (from the inside of the bag) then through to the front of the bag. License to sell: By purchasing this pattern, I give you (the original purchaser of this pattern) the rights to sell products made using this pattern. License to sell includes home-based production scale only. NO commercial production allowed. For classroom/workshop settings, each class participant must purchase their own pattern. No duplication or sharing of patterns is permitted as this is a violation of copyright. How to assemble pattern pieces: Print the last pages of this document using Adobe Acrobat Reader. When you print make sure that you have page scaling set to none, or actual size. After the pieces are printed, measure the TEST SQUARE. If it is 1 x 1 then you printed your pieces the correct size. Place the other half of the rivet over the end of the rivet. Use the rivet tool to set the rivet (refer to rivet tool package instructions if needed). Repeat to attach the other side of the leather strap. Then repeat on the other side of the bag. Cut (or fold) each piece of paper along the straight lines that run along the edges of the paper. Lay all of the pieces out on a table and match up the squares. Match square A with square A and B with B etc. When the pieces are all laid out correctly tape the pattern pieces together using scotch tape. You can then trace the desired pattern pieces onto pattern paper. 12 M 2016 MELISSA MORTENSON MAY NOT BE DUPLICATED. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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14 A G Bag Pattern Piece From Fabric Cut: 2 for Bag Outisde 2 for Bag Lining 2 for Bag Pocket along line marked From Fusible Fleece Cut: 2 for Bag Outisde Interfacing 1 in location marked for Bag Pocket From Flex Foam Cut: 2 for Bag Lining Interfacing Outside Zippered Pocket Placement Line (transfer markings to right

15 D Center Front A I side of one bag outside piece)

16 I B E J

17 H Zipper Opening Stitching Guide; Transfer markings to interfacing outside pocket piece From Fabric Cut: 2 for Outside Pocket From Medium Weight Interfacing Cut: 1 for Outside Pocket Interfacing C

18 Center Front Cut on Fold Bag bottom piece From Fabric Cut On Fold: 1 for Bag Outisde 1 for Bag Lining From Flex Foam Cut On Fold: 1 for Bag Outside Interfacing J C F

19 Fold Pattern Piece along this line to create inside pocket pattern piece K Test Square 1 x 1 D

20 E pattern pieces 2016 do not duplicate K L

21 handle piece L From Fabric Cut 2 for View B Handles zipper panel piece From Fabric Cut on Fold: 2 for Bag Outisde 2 for Bag Lining From Fusible Fleece Cut on Fold: 2 for Bag Outisde Interfacing From Medium Weight Interfacing Cut on Fold: 2 for Bag Lining Interfacing F Center Front Cut on Fold Center Front Cut on Fold

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