A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

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1 A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

2 Designs by Jude Haute Holiday for $12.95 US 2010 Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

3 Designs by Jude Haute Holiday For Fabric & Notions: slk dupioni, satin, taffeta or similar. Light weight cotton, china silk, polyester or silk essence for lining. Matching thread, 4 4/0 snap sets, optional buckle for bow. Dress 1. Right sides together sew bodice side to bodice front. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. Repeat for lining. 2. Right sides together sew bodice back to bodice side. Repeat for lining. 3. Right sides together, sew two skirt sides together. Press seam allowance open. 4. Right sides together sew skirt sides to skirt front. 5. Right sides together sew skirt back to skirt sides 6. Right sides together sew top raw edge of skirt to bottom raw edge of bodice. Some easing, gathering and adjusting may be needed to ensure that skirt seams line up with bodice seams. 7. Wrong sides together fold bottom raw edge of bodice lining under approx. ¼ and hard press. 8. Right sides together sew top raw edge of bodice lining to top raw edge of bodice. Some easing may be required to ensure that all seams line up. Clip curves as needed. Fold bodice lining over bodice and smooth out top finished edge. Wrong side of bodice lining should be facing the wrong side of the bodice. Hard press. 9. Wrong sides together fold only one back of dress and dress lining under as indicated by fold lines on pattern. This folded edge will overlap the other back raw edge when the dress is fastened closed in the back. Refold bodice lining over bodice 10. Using waxed thread and a sharp needle sew gathering stitches along back fold line as indicated on bodice back pattern pieces. This is the same line you folded and pressed in the previous steps. You are only sewing gathering stitches in the bodice, not in the bodice lining. Stitches should begin from the top underside of the bodice and tied off. Stitches should be approx. 1/8 in length with a 1/8 space between. Sew until you reach the skirt ensuring your last stitch ends at the seam where the skirt and bodice meet then pull thread through to the underside of bodice. Do not tie this thread off. Cut the thread approx. 6 longer than is protruding from the fabric. This excess will be used to pull the thread and create the gathers in a later step. 11. Sew a gathering stitch through the seam where the bodice back and bodice side meet. Remember to leave an excess amount of thread before cutting. You will do this for all gathering stitches. 12. Sew a gathering stitch as indicated by the pattern marking on the bodice side. 13. Sew a gathering stitch through the seam were the bodice side and bodice front meet. 14. Sew a gathering stitch down the center front of bodice front as indicated on pattern piece. 15. Now that all gathering stitches are in place you will start from the back of the bodice and work your way around until you reach the back of the bodice. Gently pull the excess thread and evenly position the gathers. A good way to make sure you have enough gathers is to use the bodice lining as a guide. The width of the bodice should equal the width of the bodice lining. Work slowly and carefully ensuring that you achieve even results around the bodice. As you finish with each gathering stitch, thread the excess through a needle and tie it off tightly to the seam allowance where the bodice and skirt meet. 16. With all gathering stitches securely tied into place and working from the inside of the bodice secure the bodice lining into place using waxed thread and needle along the previously folded and now gathered back edge and along the bottom folded edge. As you work conceal the skirt seam allowance under the lining. Remember that the lining and your stitches should not be visible from the right side of the dress. 17. Right sides together sew center backs of skirt together stopping at dot. Press seam allowance to one side. Fold bottom raw hem edge of skirt under, wrong sides together approx. 3/8 and hard press. Using waxed thread and needle secure hem into place using a blind hem. Alternatively you may trim the hem edge with a bias cut band as pictured. To do this cut a strip of fabric 27 in length and 4 wide on the bias. Wrong sides together fold band in half and hard press. Remember to work carefully as bias cut pieces tend to grow and distort if you pull and handle them roughly. Unfold lengthwise and refold again widthwise. Match the 4 ends together and sew along the raw edge using a ¼ seam allowance. Refold strip again with wrong sides together, lengthwise. Stay stitch top raw edge of strip approx. ¼ from edge. Let the machine feed the edge without any excess pulling by you. Foregoing the previous step of blind hemming, sew the top raw edge of the bias strip to the bottom raw hem edge with right sides together. From right side of the dress press seam allowance upward.

4 18. Fit dress to doll and mark place for snap sets as indicated on pattern pieces. The bodice may seem to be too small because it has drawn up a bit from the gathering stitches, give it a good stretch or have someone help you steam it as you stretch. This will return the bodice to its original size and create evening gathers. Secure snap sets into place using waxed thread and needle. 19. Right sides together sew bow as indicated by sewing lines on pattern, stopping at dots. Ensure that the rights sides of the fabric are facing each other. Trim seam allowance and corners as needed. Turn bow right side out. Tuck seams of opening inside of bow, smooth out the side edges and press hard. Repeat this process for the bow tails. 20. Using waxed thread and needle sew a gathering stitch down the center front of the bow and pull tightly. Wrap thread around center of bow a few times and tie thread off but do not cut. Secure a pendant to the right side of the bow and tie thread off again on the underside of the bow and cut. Repeat this process for the bow tail. You may want to create an asymmetrical look as pictured. If so, do not center the gathering stitches. Secure bow tails to the wrong side of the bow. Tie off thread but do not cut. With the dress still fitted to the doll, position and secure the bow to the dress as desired. Ensure that your stitches are not visible from the right side of the dress.

5 Skirt Back Bodice Back Lining Skirt Side Cut 4 Cut 1 Bodice Front Bodice Side Lining 2010 Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

6 Bow Tails Cut 1 on Fold Fold Here Fold Here Skirt Front Cut 1 on Fold Bodice Side Bodice Front Lining Cut 1 ease Cut Bow 1 on Fold Fold Here ease Bodice Back 2010 Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.