PRODUCT MANUAL V1.0 1

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Chad Andrew Houston
5 years ago
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1 PRODUCT MANUAL V1.0 1

2 Dear Customer, Congratulations on your purchase of a Datum Gear product! We hope you enjoy our products for years to come. We know that many of our customers are new to building their own rifles. It can seem daunting but fear not! We are here to help. If you get stuck, or have any questions, please contact us at sales@datumgear.com. You can also call us at Leave your name, phone number(s) and the best times to call you back. Honestly, is the way to go because of the volume of calls we get. Really, truly, Scout s Honor: we will give you a call back to help you with your questions, normally the same or next business day. One piece of advice before you start, and this is probably the most important thing: =Grab your favorite beverage, smoke em if you got em, and settle in for some quality Man Cave time. Nothing about this is rocket science, but you will need to TAKE YOUR TIME Don t rush, and you will get good results. Try to rush things, especially with the milling and drilling of your 80% lower, could result in a real, honest to goodness AR paperweight. I know I ve done it! We want to sell you more lowers, but not because one got boogered up. Enjoy your build! -CJ, Mechanical Engineer 2

3 AR-15 /.308 DRILL AND MILL JIG 3

4 WHAT WILL YOU NEED? You will need a vertical drill press, such as this one from Harbor Freight for about $70: You will also need a basic caliper, some WD-40 or cutting fluid, some masking tape, and several mill and drill bits to cut the holes and slots. You can get them from MSC or McMaster-Carr: Spend a little more and get some good quality bits. 3" long minimum, longer is better. Buy extras, in case. Optional, but really helpful, are a Dremel and an X/Y mill vise. You can buy these endmills and bits at A36 Gen Purpose Uncoated HSS Jobbers' Drill Bit 3/8", 5" L Overall, 3.1" Drill Depth 8870A21 Gen Purpose Uncoated HSS Jobbers' Drill Bit 5/32", 3-1/8" Oal, 1.8" Drill Depth 3051A15 High-Speed Steel Two-Flute Endmill 3/8" Mill Dia, 3/8" Shank Dia, 9/16" Lg of Cut 8876A66 Two-Flute Carbide End Mill 5/16" Mill Dia, 5/16" Shank Dia, 4" O'all Length OVERVIEW Your jig is manufactured from high quality 6061-T6 aluminum, with anodized side plates and hard anodized guide plates for durability. The hardened steel drill bushings are GUARANTEED FOR LIFE. If they ever wear out, contact us to have your jig serviced and the bushings replaced. 4

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7 STEP 3 NOTE: If you do not remove the alignment pin as shown, you will mill right through it. 7

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STEP 5 NOTE: after drilling these pilot holes, go back and drill them again in the same location, to a little less than the total desired depth. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE CAREFUL.

9 STEP 5 NOTE: after drilling these pilot holes, go back and drill them again in the same location, to a little less than the total desired depth. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE CAREFUL. It is easy to drill too deep. See the drawing below for final desired pocket depths. You do not want to drill right through the floor of your pocket, so mark your drill bit / quill accordingly and measuremeasure-measure. Milling notes: start milling in the center of the guide plate opening. At first, the cutting flutes will be pretty high, and could damage the guide plate opening walls. Mill out a bit, drop your mill in increments each time, and once the cutting flutes are beneath the jig plate opening, you can run your mill shank along the guide. IMPORTANT: in the shallow pocket for the selector, you may not be able to get the mill deep enough for the flutes to clear the guide plate. Even if you use our suggested Mcmaster-Carr parts, there may still be variations from one mill to the other in total flute length. If this is the case, use the jig guide plate to mill most of it, then visually line up your mill and do as much as possible without damaging the mill plate. You can always go back later and clean it up with a Dremel. 9

10 Best to cut in as small an increment as you can tolerate. Do not do more than per step. 10

Again, stay away from the edges of the mill guide plate until the cutting flutes are beneath them. Then your mill shank can touch the guide plate, but not before.

11 Again, stay away from the edges of the mill guide plate until the cutting flutes are beneath them. Then your mill shank can touch the guide plate, but not before. CHECK YOUR DEPTHS, especially in the shallower pocket, when doing this, to make sure you do not go too deep. Yes, this will involve taking the guide plate off and putting it back on repeatedly. Just consider it a time investment in the quality of your lower. You re now done! Now, your pocket walls may or may not look nice and clean. This is OK. There are only a couple of areas that really matter; where the trigger and hammer pins go and where the trigger and hammer parts touch off on the inside walls. If these are too tight, fret not! Just go in and, using your Dremel, SLOWLY grind away material from the walls until the parts move freely. Yes, you will need to remove the parts and put them back in again several times. But this is better than removing too much material, right? 11

Specifications: Hole Sizes: Selector Pin Hole: 3/8 (0.375 ) Trigger Pin Hole: 5/32 (0.156 ) Hammer Pin Holes: 5/32 (0.156 )

Specifications: Hole Sizes: Selector Pin Hole: 3/8 (0.375 ) Trigger Pin Hole: 5/32 (0.156 ) Hammer Pin Holes: 5/32 (0.156 ) 80% Arms AR-15 Jig manual Thank you for purchasing our AR- 15 jig. This precision self- aligning jig will allow you to finish your 80% Arms and other 80% lowers using only a drill press and a few common