Norman's Grizzly G0602 Reverse Tumbler Plans

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Marybeth Short
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1 Norman's Grizzly G0602 Reverse Tumbler Plans Pictures taken by Norman Author Norman here is the photos of the change gears for the G0602 lathe. reverse turning to the right or for left hand threads netural gear train stops completely forward or turning to the left

unfinished gear selector lever. its not pretty but it works fine. I still have things to do to finish it all up. x 4" plate for the plastic gear 60 tooth mount.

I added a plate mounting bolt 1/4-20 flush head by the gear stud after this photo was shot plus cut off the excess mounting plate right at 1/2" below the gear mount stud.

2 unfinished gear selector lever. its not pretty but it works fine. I still have things to do to finish it all up. x 4" plate for the plastic gear 60 tooth mount. I machined a new mounting stud instead of using the metric mounting stud. This mounting stud has 1/4-20 threads the shoulder is also larger in dia. around 5/8". I added a plate mounting bolt 1/4-20 flush head by the gear stud after this photo was shot plus cut off the excess mounting plate right at 1/2" below the gear mount stud. I used the stock hole for mounting the plate it's a metric thread, used a flush head machine screws for both, the bottom is a - 20 thread(not shown). back side of the tumbler plate the milled area is so the plate will partly go over the stock metric plate(its thicker than the plate) and not allow the plate to pivot any farther towards the back. I welded on

You will need to heat them up to glowing red/orange then let them cool slowly so you can machine them. both gears need bored to fit the roller bearings then machine the gears to around 3/8" width.

3 the lever arm to the gear plate and bushed the pivot hole this plate will mount on the first plate using the new gear stud's 5/8" dia shoulder. front side you can see the gears are not parallel that is so only one gear at a time is in contact with the spindle gear. the gears are cut down timing gears from a small (5hp) engine. You will need to heat them up to glowing red/orange then let them cool slowly so you can machine them. both gears need bored to fit the roller bearings then machine the gears to around 3/8" width. I used 1/8" pipe machined down to fit the I.D. of the bearings. Then I used small dia washers on each side of the 1/4-20 mounting bolts. To set the proper mesh for the gears I used writing paper between the gears. Then center punch the spots to drill and tap the 2 holes for1/4-20" threads lever mount made from cold roll steel mounted with 1/4-20" bolts. once I was satisfied with the tumbler gears mesh. I took the plate off and tack welded a top and bottom limit plate again made from plate. The forward neutral and reverse plate is 5/8" key stock this is mounted to the lathe with 2 1/4-20 flush head machine screws. I checked behind the lathes control cover plate first to make sure I didn't drill onto any thing important for the 2 1/4-20 bolts

To switch the lever pull out on the knob and select the position you want, the lever will index into 1 of 3 holes forwards, neutral, and reverse.

4 I also welded a 5/8x5/8x 1"(5/8" sq. key stock) square block the end of the lever to mount the spring loaded switching pin. I used the bench grinder to round the corners off a little on the welded on lever end. I still need to cut the lathes cover for all this to fit and make a knob for the levers threaded end. To switch the lever pull out on the knob and select the position you want, the lever will index into 1 of 3 holes forwards, neutral, and reverse. I made a knob for the lever out of a brass spruce from one of my attempts at casting brass so I'll show that once I take a photo of it. This is the first thick plate the blue circle is the metric shoulder bolt mount, now used as the plates mounting bolt. Both mounting bolts are flush head machine screws. The black arrow points to the other mounting spot using a 1/4-20 flush machine screw. You can also see the shoulder bolt for the 60 tooth plastic gear. The thing in the left front is my speed reducer, I didn't bother to remove it while I took the reverse tumbler apart for show and tell. This is the plate's measurements. Your measurements may be different.

) and the wrenching flats are on the bolts end the length is longer than the stock shoulder bolt.

I didn't label the oil exit hole or the size of the wrench flats.

6 same plate with the mounting hardware. Instead of using the metric shoulder bolt I made this one from cold rolled steel. the shoulder is round( dia.) and the wrenching flats are on the bolts end the length is longer than the stock shoulder bolt. It's drilled for one of those spring ball oilers in the end. I didn't label the oil exit hole or the size of the wrench flats. The shoulder bolt will basically have no wrench flats on the shoulder, be a little bit longer and have 1/4-20 threads instead of metric threads. The wrench flats were moved to the end of the shaft. all of the parts that go on the bottom mounting plate. OOPs the gear does go on the shoulder bolt but the top plate has to go on first.

7 this is the top plate with the shifting lever etc. top plate with gear removed the bottom plate is under it, has the gears shoulder bolt in place. back side of the top plate, you look closely you will see the milled area, top right side of the plate.

The blue note reads: bore and bush for shoulder bolt.

8 There now you can see the milled area. this is the top plate with the shifting lever. Weld the shift lever on last after you've got the tumbler gears to mesh with the spindle gear. The blue note reads: bore and bush for shoulder bolt. these measurements for the gears mounting hole may be different depending on the gears you use. You will want to fit the plate to the lathe to get the mounting holes for the gears and the proper mesh of the gears.

The milled area is so this plate will clear the back plate on the lathe that mounts the idler pulley and the step pulley. you've seen this,but here it is again.

Couple of sketches of the shift lever's indexing plate.

9 The milled area is so this plate will clear the back plate on the lathe that mounts the idler pulley and the step pulley. you've seen this,but here it is again. the 2 holes under the gear mounting holes was for mounting the plate on the lathes face plate for boring the shoulder bolts hole. Couple of sketches of the shift lever's indexing plate. When building the shift plate mount the bottom plate first with the 2 bolts then fit the 2 welded plates, check the operation of the gears, making sure both mesh properly then tack weld the thick by 1/2" plates to the bottom mount. Last part is the 5/8 x5/8 indexing plate, using the shift levers end as a guide drill the forward,neutral, and reverse holes.

This is the indexing holes for the shift lever, I didn't include measurements as yours may be different.

Sketch of the shift lever's end. I rounded off the corners on the key stock after welding it to the lever.

detail of the inside of the shift lever. The plunger with the spring fits inside of the 5/8x5/8x1 key stock.

10 This is the indexing holes for the shift lever, I didn't include measurements as yours may be different. Top is forwards,middle is neutral,bottom is reverse. The holes in the photo for the shift plunger is dia. Sketch of the shift lever's end. I rounded off the corners on the key stock after welding it to the lever. You will need to do all the drilling for the plunger on the 5/8x5/8x1" before it's welded to the 1/4x1/2"lever. detail of the inside of the shift lever. The plunger with the spring fits inside of the 5/8x5/8x1 key stock. The plunger is held in place by the knob. You can make it like this or how ever you want this was just my idea, it works perfectly. The plunger shaft was 1/2" dia. stock. The end of the plunger us rounded so

11 it will slip into the indexing holes easily. There you go. Now you have a better idea of how I made the reverse tumbler gears for the G0602 metal lathe. PDF File Created by Kevin Day

12 DeltaCad DEMO 3" 1 1/32" Shoulder Bolt Details.312 DIA 5/8".360 E-Clip Groove 2 1/8".390 Tap x 20tpi /16" DIA Tap x 20tpi Drill #7 Hole.201 DIA Drill for Ball Oiler and Oil Hole 1/2" 11/16" 5/16" 1 1/8" 1 1/2" DRAWN Name ENGINEER Name Name G0602 Reverse Plate 1 SCALE 1 : 1 G0602 Date 04/24/2011 Day,K Plate 1 SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 1 OF 6

13 DeltaCad DEMO Gear Plate Front 1" 3" 3/8" Drill #7 Tap for x 20tpi Your Tumble Gears mounting holes maybe different Your will want to Fit the Gear plate to your lathe to get the mounting holes and mesh the gears correctly 3/8" 1/2" 3 5/8" Bore and bush for Shoulder Bolt 2 13/16" 11/16" 1/2" 1 1/8" 5/16" DRAWN Name Gear Plate Front Front ENGINEER Name Date SCALE 1 : 1 Day,K 04/11/2011 SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 2 OF 6

14 DeltaCad DEMO Gear Plate Back 13/16" Mill 1/16" Deep 13/16" Name Gear Plate Back Back Name Day,K Date 04/24/2011 SCALE 1 : 1 SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 3 OF 6

15 DeltaCad DEMO 3/8" 3/4" Index Block 3/8" 5 1/2" 5 1/2" The Index Block, Alignment depends on the riser blocks fitting 1/2" Note: Dimensions are approximate you will have to fix these to your specific Machine 3/8" 3/4" Indexing block and mounting DRAWN Name Name Day,K Date 04/24/2011 SCALE 1 : 1 Indexing parts SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 5 of 6

16 DeltaCad DEMO 1" 1/2" 5/8" 5/8" DIA Note: Dimensions are approximate you will have to fix these to your specific Machine Shift Lever End Details Name Shift Lever Name Day,K Date 04/24/2011 SCALE 1 : 1 SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 4 OF 6

17 DeltaCad DEMO 1" Thread x 20TPI 3/8" 5/8" 3/4" 3/8" Compression Spring Machine with a slip fit Make Shaft extra long Cut to fit Length 5/8" 1" Thread x 20 TPI Note: Dimensions are approximate you will have to fix these to your specific Machine DRAWN Name Handle Parts Handle Handle parts Name Day,K Date 04/24/2011 SCALE 1 : 1 SIZE A REV - DWG NUMBER SHEET 6 of 6

7x --Tailstock Cam Lock

7x --Tailstock Cam Lock By Magic Brian magicbrian40@yahoo.com Probably the most pleasing mod to have, but often not done through lack of milling facility s This version does NOT require a mill. MATERIALS