Mudroom Unit. Page 1 of 25

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Martha Melissa Higgins
5 years ago
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1 Mudroom Unit Page 1 of 25

Introduction This plan makes a unit which is 66 ¾ inches tall, 39 ½ inches wide and 18 ½ inches deep. It was custom made for some friends to fit the space available they had.

2 Introduction This plan makes a unit which is 66 ¾ inches tall, 39 ½ inches wide and 18 ½ inches deep. It was custom made for some friends to fit the space available they had. On the unit I built I used solid planks for the sides rather than plywood. For ease of build though I have done these plans using plywood. For the 1 by 4 planks I used the more expensive Select pine boards except for the molding spacers which were No2 whitewood grade. I have tried to ensure all steps are covered in these plans but if you find any errors in the plans or have a question then please me at info@andrewharriswoodwork.com to let me know. All my builds are made with pocket hole joinery. You will need a pocket hole jig tool such as a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig in order to build them. Page 2 of 25

3 Shopping List Size Length Quantity Board Number 1 by 2 8 feet by 3 8 feet 4 1 to 4 1 by 4 6 feet 2 12 and 13 1 by 4 select pine 8 feet 7 5 to inch plywood 0.25 inch plywood 3.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim 1.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim You will also need: 1.25 inch pocket screws 1.25 inch wood screws ¾ inch finishing nails 1 ¼ inch finishing nails Wood glue Two coat hooks Estimated Material Cost: Page 3 of 25

4 Cut list Please read all instructions before cutting wood as shown below. I suggest some pieces are cut as you go to ensure a tight fit. To minimize the number of boards to use plan your cuts I have given details of which board I cut the piece from. If you find a more economical solution then please let me know. Size Length (inches) Qua ntity Used For Board Number 1 by Seat base verticals 1 and 2 1 by Seat base sides Two from board 1 and Two from board 2 1 by Seat base front and back 3 and 4 1 by Seat base front and back mid supports One from board 3 and one from board 4 1 by Base molding supports 12 1 by Top molding supports 13 1 by 4 Select Seat One from board 6 and one from board 5 1 by 4 Select 32 4 Seat Two from board 5 and two from board 6 1 by 4 Select 37 2 Back T Frame 7 1 by 4 Select 44 2 Back T Frame 8 1 by 4 Select Back T Frame 9 1 by 4 Select 30 1 Back T Frame 11 1 by 4 Select Bottom molding One from board 10 and one from board 11 1 by 4 Select Bottom molding One from board 7 and one from board 9 1 by 4 Select Top molding One from board 9 and one from board 10 1 by 4 Select 14 2 Top molding One from board 5 and one from board inch plywood 18 by Side inserts 0.75 inch plywood 35 by 18 1 Seat back From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood 35 by Seat base From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood by Seat Middle divider From 4 ft by 8 ft board Page 4 of 25

Size Length (inches) Qua ntity Used For Board Number 0.75 inch plywood 44 by 37 1 Back From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood 44 by 11 2 Sides From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood 35.

5 Size Length (inches) Qua ntity Used For Board Number 0.75 inch plywood 44 by 37 1 Back From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood 44 by 11 2 Sides From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.75 inch plywood 35.5 by 11 1 Top From 4 ft by 8 ft board 0.25 inch plywood 37 by Top insert See diagram below for how all but two of the ¾ inch plywood pieces can be cut from one 8ft by 4 ft board. Remember you will need to take into account the blade thickness. Page 5 of 25

6 Making the Base Part Step 1 Make the two Side frames Make the two side frames using the 18 and 10 ½ inch lengths of 1 by 3. Page 6 of 25

7 Step 2 Make the front and back frames Make the front and back frames using the 1 by 3 pieces shown. Page 7 of 25

8 Step 3 Join the sides together Join the four sides together as shown. You will need to put pocket holes on the inside of the side pieces facing outwards. They will be used for fixing the front and back frames to the sides. Page 8 of 25

9 Step 4 Add side inserts and back insert Add the ¾ inch plywood pieces to the insides of the sides and the back. The two side inserts are 18 by 15 ½ inches. The back piece is 35 inches by 18 inches. Fix with glue and 1 ¼ inch finishing nails or 1 ¼ inch wood screws. Page 9 of 25

10 Step 5 Add the base Add the base which is the ¾ inch plywood measuring 35 by 14 ¾ inches. Leave at least a 1 inch gap between the bottom of the base and the bottom edge of the cabinet. You will see why when we come to fit the molding trim. Page 10 of 25

11 Step 6 Add the base molding Drill holes through that bottom 1 inch of the sides left showing below the bottom edge of the shelf. Clamp the molding in place and fit the molding by screwing through frame into the molding. I tend to cut the front piece first and fit that and then cut the sides to measure and then cut the back rather than cut all pieces and expect them to be spot on. I also add some scrap blocks on the inside corners. I put pocket holes in one end of the scrap piece and screw that to the long trim piece so it is also tight with the short trim piece. I then screw through that into the base and then through the scrap piece back into the short trim piece. I find this helps keep the joint tight. An actual picture of it is shown below. You can see I also put some spacers using some scrap 1 by 4 I had between the two long trim pieces to stop them from moving if get kicked etc. Page 11 of 25

12 Page 12 of 25

Drill pocket holes in each edge of the piece so it can be screwed to the bottom, front, back and top.

13 Step 7 Fit the middle divider Fit the middle divider piece of ¾ inch plywood measuring 16 ¼ by 14 ¾. This gives the seat some support in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the piece so it can be screwed to the bottom, front, back and top. You need only do them on one side of the piece. Step 8 Make the top Make the top from the 1 by 4 pieces shown Page 13 of 25

Step 9 Fitting the Top Drill pocket holes around the top of the base on the inside with the holes being drilled upwards. Place the top good side down and place the upturned base on it.

14 Step 9 Fitting the Top Drill pocket holes around the top of the base on the inside with the holes being drilled upwards. Place the top good side down and place the upturned base on it. Make sure there is an equal gap on the left and right hand sides. The back should be flush with the base leaving a ½ inch overhang on the front. Page 14 of 25

15 Step 10 Add internal trim I added 1 ½ inch trim ¼ inch thick to the inside of the base to hide the screws used to fix the side and back panels. I fixed this with ¾ inch nails and glue. If you add this then cut each piece to fit your build. Page 15 of 25

16 Making the Top Piece Step 11 Make the back frame Make the back frame from the 1 by 4 pieces shown. Put the pocket holes on the back side. Page 16 of 25

17 Step 12 Add back panel Fit the ¾ inch plywood back panel to the frame (so it is attached to the side with the pocket holes) and fix with 1 ¼ inch wood screws and glue. Make sure you don t put the screws where you want the hooks to go on the reverse side!! Page 17 of 25

18 Step 13 Add the sides and top Add the sides which are the ¾ inch ply pieces measuring 44 inches by 11 inches and the top measuring 35 ½ by 11 inches. Drill pocket holes on the outside pieces as they will be hidden by the trim. Put the pocket holes on the top side of the top piece so they are hidden. Page 18 of 25

19 Step 14 Add the top molding Add the top molding. I drilled through the very top of the sides (which would then hide with some trim) to screw the molding to the sides and back with 1 ¼ inch wood screws. I then added corner blocks as with the base to pull the joints tight and stop them moving. For the front edge drill pocket holes in the plywood and screw to the front trim using 1 ¼ inch pocket hole screws. Page 19 of 25

20 Step 15 Add bracing for molding I added some scrap 1 by 4s as shown to 1) brace the top and back sides of the molding and 2) to have something to fix a sheet of ¼ inch plywood to just to finish off the top. Page 20 of 25

21 Step 16 Add ¼ inch ply to top Add a piece of 37 by 12 ½ inch ¼ inch thick plywood just to finish the top. Page 21 of 25

Step 17 fix the top to the base Drill holes in the bottom edge of the sides of the top. You will then fix the top to the base using 1 1/4 Inch pocket hole screws.

22 Step 17 fix the top to the base Drill holes in the bottom edge of the sides of the top. You will then fix the top to the base using 1 1/4 Inch pocket hole screws. I used 3 on each side and about 8 on the back to ensure fixed well. I also used glue. The holes on the side will be hidden by trim. Page 22 of 25

23 Step 18 Add the side trim Add the side trim. I used 3.5 inch by 0.25 inch trim which is wide enough so you don t have to fill and sand the pocket holes. Fix with ¾ inch finishing nails and glue. Page 23 of 25

24 Step 19 Add the front trim Add the two 42.5 inch by 1.5 inch pieces of trim to the front to hide the edge of the plywood. Page 24 of 25

25 Step 18 Add the internal trim To cover the screws fixing the top molding to the sides and back add inch trim ¼ inch thick to the inside of the cabinet. Step 19 Finish Finish in your choice of stain or paint. Step 20 Add Coat hooks Add coat hooks of your choice Page 25 of 25

Chest of Drawers Plans

Chest of Drawers Plans www.andrewharriswoodwork.com Page 1 of 15 Introduction This plan makes a chest of drawers that is 50 inches at the widest point, 19 inches deep and 40.75 inches high. I have tried