Building Instructions V 1.0 for a Styrene R0 Dome

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Godfrey Murphy
5 years ago
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1 Building Instructions V 1.0 for a Styrene R0 Dome Created by R2 Builders Sweden: Lars-Åke Siggelin, Lars Lindberg, Alexander Arvidsson & David Bergelv

They could also be printed on smaller paper sizes, just make sure to select 100% in size (or No scaling depending on printer), then stich

2 This building instruction is using 1mm and 3mm Polystyrene, if you use other sizes be sure to compensate measurements. The PDF flat pack files are made to be printed on A0 size without scaling. They could also be printed on smaller paper sizes, just make sure to select 100% in size (or No scaling depending on printer), then stich them together yourself. Start the by cutting out the Dome Skin (R PDF) out of 1mm Styrene plastic. Then cut out all the Windows (small square openings) and Doors (big openings), save all the parts that you cut out for later.

prototype was by using some scrap 1mm pieces

3 The joining line has been placed in the rear and next step is to join the two ends: The way it was done on the prototype was by using some scrap 1mm pieces (approximately 40mm x 100mm and 40mm x 15mm), see blue pieces in picture below.

You might want to use the Window Back Piece (R0-1010-1.PDF) instead which might be better (stronger).

Place the Windows Back Piece so the PSI Window (the only small square Window that shouldn t have any Back Piece) line up AND the joining line overlaps the Dome Skin joining line.

Once the Windows Back Piece has cured you can start adding Door Frames (Green facing color in picture below). All the Doors in the Dome has the frames in the same way a R2 Dome has (5mm in width).

4 You might want to use the Window Back Piece (R PDF) instead which might be better (stronger). Make sure you let the Dome Skin joint settle/cure before gluing the rest of the Window Back Piece. Place the Windows Back Piece so the PSI Window (the only small square Window that shouldn t have any Back Piece) line up AND the joining line overlaps the Dome Skin joining line. If not then turn the Window Back Piece the other way around. It should NOT look like the picture below (left). On the prototype I only cut out small square pieces for the Windows (right). Once the Windows Back Piece has cured you can start adding Door Frames (Green facing color in picture below). All the Doors in the Dome has the frames in the same way a R2 Dome has (5mm in width). These are easiest created using the cut out doors as template on 1mm Styrene. Mark them up and then mark the frames 5mm inside this and another mark about 1-2 cm outside as well. Now cut your frames according to the new markings. The Windows Frames is that Window Back Piece (R PDF) mentioned earlier, if you want to make these open you will have to open up the frames for them on your own, using same method.

I glued the frames from the inside with the opening facing down, one at time, and put a small Lead Battery (for weight) on top until the glue had settled (approx. 10-15min).

5 I glued the frames from the inside with the opening facing down, one at time, and put a small Lead Battery (for weight) on top until the glue had settled (approx min). Then you should add the Inner Top Plate/Ring (R PDF), bevel the edges to secure a better fit and more adhesion surface for the glue. Don t worry if it is not 100% straight, we can fix that later. Important thing here is to get the correct circular shape. In this picture it is one solid circular piece, but it can be made as a ring as shown in picture on next page and on the blueprint (R PDF)

Then it is time to add the Center Dome Ring (R0-1017.PDF), same here, Bevel the edges for better adhesion.

6 Then it is time to add the Center Dome Ring (R PDF), same here, Bevel the edges for better adhesion. This piece is for structural support and there is some leeway for where it should sit. Just make sure the gaps correspond to the Greeblie Frames.

Then it is time for the Top Spacer (R0-1012.PDF, could be made as a ring as well).

You do not want this piece to sit crocked.

Then you add the Bottom Dome Ring (use R0-1015.

7 Then it is time for the Top Spacer (R PDF, could be made as a ring as well). Before you glue this part, make sure that this piece sits level all around. You do not want this piece to sit crocked. It is slightly smaller than the Top piece to create a 3mm deep gap all around. Then you add the Bottom Dome Ring (use R PDF, but no holes are needed), again, bevel the edges.. Make sure this dries in the correct position (easy just let the Cone sit on top of the Dome Circle on a level surface)

Then it is time for the Bottom Dome Ring Spacer (R0-1018.

8 Then it is time for the Bottom Dome Ring Spacer (R PDF) to be added. It is also there to create a 3mm deep gap between the Dome Cone and Dome Ring. Once you have reached this stage your Cone Dome should look similar to this:

9 Dome Ring construction Start with one of the two circles (R PDF) with holes for Lazy Susan (Rockler) Then start adding the Dome Base Ring Spacers (24 pieces 20mm x 60mm), use simple V:s all around the circle, important thing is that they have the same height!

Then glue the second Dome Ring and use screws to align the two rings together (not illustrated)

Then add the first layer of the Dome Ring Shroud (adjust length to fit), make sure that it adheres

Start with the 12mm at top, the 15mm in the middle and 20mm in the bottom, make sure you leave 1mm

A third strip could be added on the inside lower part for strength (making the most bottom part of

10 Then glue the second Dome Ring and use screws to align the two rings together (not illustrated) Cut two long 1mm stripes for the Dome Ring Shroud (R PDF, 1mm x 50mm x 146mm). Then add the first layer of the Dome Ring Shroud (adjust length to fit), make sure that it adheres to both rings Then cut the second strip into three pieces (R PDF, 12mm, 15, & 20mm in width). Start with the 12mm at top, the 15mm in the middle and 20mm in the bottom, make sure you leave 1mm gap between each strip. A third strip could be added on the inside lower part for strength (making the most bottom part of the ring 3mm in thick). It was not done for the prototype and it isn t necessary, but it is strongly recommend for added strength of the area where you probably will handle the dome the most

The plan for the Dome Ring has been based on the Lazy Susan (Rockler) bearing and the needed spacing is either 2 nuts or one Dome Plate and one nut on the Lazy Susan to achieve the correct height.

11 The plan for the Dome Ring has been based on the Lazy Susan (Rockler) bearing and the needed spacing is either 2 nuts or one Dome Plate and one nut on the Lazy Susan to achieve the correct height. If you want the Dome to sit higher or lower just use any washers to achieve this. Attach the Dome Ring to the Cone Dome (glue or screw, whatever you prefer) and you should have something like this:

12 Here is a cutaway showing the layers on Dome and Dome Ring with the Lazy Susan bearing. Then it is time to make the Top Hat (R0-1005_B.PDF ) Use a 2mm Circle and add two 3mm circles (diameter 100mm) centered on top of each other. Then cut out a 1mm ring with the same diameter as the 2mm Circle and cut out a hole almost 100mm in diameter (99mm ish..). Then we are going to cut out a slice to be able to make the cone shape that the Top Hat has. Start with a simple straight cut and then form the ring into right shape. Mark where the ring then overlaps, this is your guide for cutting out that slice. Always cut less than you think you need so you can adjust little by little until perfect fit. When done it should look like this (not to scale):

13 Attach the piece on the Top Hat structure and align the ring to make the cone shape. Lastly add a 1mm circle with diameter 100mm on the very top. Now all you have to do is to use filler and sanding until you have the desired shape and finish. Here is the Top Hat painted in white.

14 Then we have to make three Greeblie Boxes. Make sure you use two of the three Greeblie Doors cutouts as back for the box (cut out a third one using one of them as a template). The blueprint for our greeblie is R PDF. When done it should look like this:

15 Then it is time to add all the Doors and hatches for the Windows, this is best done after painting if you don t want to mask everything. The blue doors on picture below have the wrong shape, it was somewhat corrected during final assembly.

dome. For the 3mm gaps you can use alu tape to get a metal look after

16 The radar Eye is a standard one, just needs to add some structures on the sides and file the top curvature to make it sit flush against the dome. For the 3mm gaps you can use alu tape to get a metal look after painting. Don t forget to put something White Semi Transparent in the PSI Window.

17 Final result:

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