Micko Scale Reproductions Me-109 Gustav

Transcription

1 Micko Scale Reproductions Me-109 Gustav Photo by Joe Balabon Thank you for purchasing the Messerschmitt Bf 109 model. This is the next model in a Fun Scale series of aircraft designed for optimum flight performance while retaining sport scale appearance. The design layout is similar to a large free flight model; light weight construction and stringers are the main features. The design allows the modeler to modify the build according to their likes, in that one can sheet the appropriate areas on the fuse and wing as well as add flaps and other scale touches. If the modeler decides to add sheeting, it is recommended to use from 1/32 to 3/32 balsa or 2mm Depron. The prototype model features retracts and flaps with an all up flight weight of pounds. With that weight the wing loading is ounces per square foot. The construction techniques require intermediate skills but the airplane s flight characteristics make it a good first scale subject. If it has been a long time since you have built a model, or if this is your first build, you may wish to purchase and practice on a Guillows or similar free flight model, as the construction style is similar. But before we build, let s have some history. If your Blitzbau (lightning build) doesn t allow time for delays in starting construction, you may wish to skip this step. But when you bring your bird out for the first flights, you may want to be able to impress the Top Guns with some Messerschmitt trivia. The Me-109 was designed by Willy Messerschmitt around 1933 for a Reich Aviation Ministry (RLM) request for a short range interceptor. Willy was all but blackballed from entering his design due to a feud with the director of RLM, Erhard

2 Milch. Despite these issues, Willy forged ahead and using many of the design features of the Me-108, produced the first prototype Me-109. Oddly enough, this aircraft was first powered with a Rolls-Royce engine. Soon a Jumo engine was mounted and she was then an all German design. Eventually winning the design contest, the 109 forged her steel in the Spanish Civil War, where she fought the little Russian fighter, the I-16 Rata. The 109 completely outclassed the little Soviet fighter and was still outclassing Russian designs when operation Barbarossa was initiated. The Me-109 soldiered on from the start of the war against Poland all the way across Russian and back, and ended her career defending the Fatherland against Allied bombers. There were several main variants, the classics being the E- Emil, F- Friedrich, G-Gustav (the model version), and K-Kurfurst. The top scoring fighter pilots of all time scored their kills flying the Messerschmitt. Over 33,000 were built; some in Spain after the war had ended- with Rolls-Royce engines for power. Around ten countries used them in anger during WWII. There are a few remaining in the world of this successful fighter, and those that remain are true treasures. That s a brief overview of the full size Messerschmitt; let s start construction on the model. Prep Work, Tools, and Specialty Items No special tools are needed but there are a few items the builder might find useful. A balsa stripper was used to cut all the stringers. A small razor saw or Zona makes for ease in cutting across stringers. Small files and sanding blocks, especially nail files can be handy. One item that is very useful is a 90 degree triangle. Several sizes and types are recommended. These can be purchased from a hobby store as well as a home improvement store. The entire model was covered with only a Trim iron. It s best at this time to decide how you plan on completing the model. Do you wish to add sheeting, flaps, full cockpit? Knowing these items in advance can help prepare the model from the start for these options. As each modeler will tailor the model to their own desires, not every step in the construction will be covered; just the main points. The first step is to identify all the parts using the Plan Page 3 of 3. Study the parts trees and label each of your sheets accordingly. I used masking tap over the part to keep a more clean build. I recommend laying wax paper over the plans to help protect them. Horizontal Stab and Elevator Start by identifying parts E-1 to E-8A and H-1 to H-8 and remove them from the parts trees. Glue all the E parts over the plans per Figure 1. Install H-1 to E-7, and slide into place H-2 to H- 8. Now plug E-5 into the rear FIGURE 1

3 of the H parts. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Add the 1/8 sqr. stringer to the top and bottom. Be sure to leave the section between H-1 and H-1 open. Trim E-3 at the back of H-8 and set the assembly aside. Install the H-1R to H-8R parts on E-2 and E-3 per the plan. Plug E- 6 into the HR parts, similar to the previous step. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Add the E-8s on the top and bottom of E-8A. This will create a pocket for the 1/8 wire for the elevator U connector that will be installed later. The center section between the elevator halves will FIGURE 2 be removed after the U connector is installed. Now you can sand the leading and trailing edges to create the airfoil shape. The part is ready to be hinged and can be set aside for later. The prototype used CA hinges, but pinned hinges could be used. FIGURE 3 Fuselage Start by identifying all FIGURE 4 the parts listed with F, WS, and K and remove them from the tree. Align K-1 through K-7 on the board over the plan and when satisfied with their location 1/8 x 1 glue into place. The fuselage uses 7 T braces made from 1/8 x 5/8 basswood strips. Make 6 from 1/8 thick x 5/8 wide by 24 long stock. Make one T from 1/8 thick x 1 wide by 24 long. Cut these 24 strips in half and glue at 90 degrees to make the T. See Figure 4.

4 Formers F-3, F-4, and F-5 have subparts (labeled F-3a, F-4a, and F-5a) that need to be attached to the main part. Find the Wing Saddle pars WS-1, WS-2, and WS-3 and glue WS-2 and WS-3 to WS-1; these should be on the inside of WS-1. Using a 90 degree WS-3 WS-1 WS-2 FIGURE 5 triangle, glue in place the left side of all the formers except F-2. Install the Wing Saddle assembly on F-4 to F-8 and check for alignment. See Figure 6.When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. With the keel assembly still on the building board, mark the locations of F-2 on K- 1 and K-7- be sure to mark accurately. FIGURE 6 Install the 3/16 square basswood stringer at the rear of K-4. Remove the fuse assembly from the building board and install and glue the right half of the formers. Build and install the other Wing Saddle assembly and glue in place. Using the template on the plan, mark the center and cross lines onto F-2 and F-2A- DO NOT GLUE THESE TOGETHER AT THIS TIME. Tack glue 3/4" x 1/2" strips of 1/64-1/32 ply near the bottom and top of the right side of F-1, F-3, F-5, F-8, and F-11. See Figure 7. These ply pieces are there for the screws that will hold the T braces to the formers. You can also tack glue the T s in place, but this might make removal later more difficult. All T braces will go on the right side of the keel. 1/32-1/16 PLY STRIPS FIGURE 7

5 FIGURE 8 Start by installing the 1/8 thick x 1 T onto the front of F-8 so that the cut out in the Wing Saddle sits on top of the T cross piece. See Figure 9. The remaining T braces are made from 1/8 thick x 5/8 wide basswood pieces. At this point, the bottom of F-4 should sit flat on the table and K-2 should close to level. See Figure 9. Pin the T over the center/thrust line on the plans. Install a T to the front of F-1 and pin over the center/thrust line. 1/8 Thick x 1 T FIGURE 9 Remove the left side of F-3 s T brace, as the left hand side will not fit under K-7. This T should be mounted flush against the keel and the backside of F-3. Glue small pieces of 1/64-1/32 ply to the front of F-2B and the back of F-5A, this will keep a small space between F-2 and F-2B, F-5 and F-5A; simplifying removal later. Pin F-2B and F-5A in place. Install the T brace to the backside of F-5 and pin over the center/thrust line. Add a T to the backside of F-11, and tack glue one to the keel in-between formers F-13 and F-14. Attach the last T to the 3/16 basswood stringer at the rear of K-4. Pin the remaining T s over the center/thrust line and ensure the fuse structure is straight. See Figures 8-9. Cut to shape some 1/8 balsa and glue cross grain from F-7 to F-8 across from Wing Saddle to Wing Saddle- this will be the cockpit floor. Slide F-2 onto the location marks on K-1 and K-7 and glue in place. Be sure F-2 is 90 degrees to the keel. The next step is installing all the stringers. The stringers are made from 1/4 medium density balsa- try not to use too dense as it will not form to the curves of the nose. On the prototype, I used 1/4 balsa sheets and a balsa stripper to make the stringers. There are an estimated stringers used if the balsa sheets are 36 in length. Some stringers will need to be spliced together. To begin installing the stingers, count the stringer notches from the top to the bottom of each former. Note on F-1 to F-5, there is a double stringer cutout. The top stringer on the

6 double cutout will be considered the Hatch Rail and will not be counted, i.e. there are 11 counted stringer notches on these formers (see F -3 reference on Plan sheet 1 of 3). (Describing the locations of the stringers is more difficult than finding them on the model. Using the manual descriptions/figures and the plans, you should not have any difficulties.) Using F-6 as a starting point, the 8th stringer notch down should be located just above the Wing Saddle. Insert a stringer on the bottom stringer notch of F-7, butting the stringer against the rear of F-6; the stringer should rest on top of the cockpit floor. Continue to insert the stringer in into the 9th notch on F-8 to F-12. From F-12 the stinger is angled upward to parallel the bottom of the keel and should be slid into the 5th stringer of F-15, butting against the 3/16 basswood stringer at the rear of K-4. See Figure 11. F-6 F-7 NOTCH #8 FIRST STRINGER BEND FIGURE 10 FIGURE 11 Install this stringer on TAPE both sides and when satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install a stringer on the bottom notch of F-6 (#8) going forward to notch #8 of F-1 (remember not to count the Hatch Rail cutout). The next stringer to install is the one directly above the first FIGURE 12 stringer installed (reference F-6 stringer notch #7). This stringer will run from F-1 and ends on stinger notch #8 of F-13. Install this stringer on both sides and when satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install the next stringer above the last; it extends from F-1 (#6 ), ending at F-14 (#7). This stringer is the one directly below the Hatch

7 Rail. Install this stringer on both sides and when satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Place plastic tape on the last stringer (See Figure 12) at stringers F-2 to F-5. This will keep the Hatch Rail from being glued to the stringer below it. Install a stringer for the Hatch Rail from F-1 to F-5. Install this stringer on both sides and when satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install the stringer from notch #1 for F- 1 to F-6 on both sides. Install a stringer in notch #2 from F-3 to F-6. There is a short stringer from F-1 to F-2 in notch #2, then from F-2 notch #2 to F-3 notch #1A. This last stringer makes a angled shape the will eventually be the a gun trough. Glue the 2 pieces of F-7A together and bevel the bottom to match the angle on the plan and glue in place. Install the remaining stringers on the fuse. Note the different types/sizes of stringers on the tail per the ANGLED STRINGERS plans. The rear of the stringers can be cut FIGURE 13 flush with the formers or can be angled to blend into other stringers. See Figure 13. With the fuse still pinned to the board, lightly sand the stringers/formers in the hatch area to blend them in and remove any MAGNET MOUNTING POINTS high spots. Cut the stingers in the hatch area between F-2 and F-2B, F-5 and F-5A. Using the precut lines as a guide, separate the hatch by finishing the cuts on F-3 and F-4 and remove the hatch. Remove the remaining pre-cut parts on the hatch and the hatch area of the fuse. Install FIGURE 14 the Battery Mounting Plate by sliding it into the wide notch in F-5 and the cutouts in F-3 and F-4. The front of the Battery Mounting Plate should be flush with the back of F-2; MAGNET MOUNTING POINTS sand as needed. See Figure 14. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Install magnet mounting points in the four corners FIGURE 15 of the hatch and the hatch area in the fuse. See Figure 14 and 15.

8 Locate the WMP-2s, they are 1/8 ply and 1/4 balsa parts. Install them in the Wing Saddle and K-6 cutouts. The fuse can be unpinned from the table and the T braces removed. Lightly sand the fuse to blend any stringers and high points. Laminate the WMP-3s and install into the WS-2 and F-7 on both sides. If you do not intend on sheeting the model, now would be a good time to fill in-between stringers #6-8 on formers F-1 to F-5 per the plans. Sand the infill to match the contour of the fuse. Install the plastic NACA scoops per the plan. You may have noticed the F-2A and SF parts have not been installed. These may need to be adjusted when considering the spinner and motor. Spinner and Motor The prototype used a Power 60 equivalent 400 KV motor spinning both 2 blade and 3 blade 16 x 8 propellers. The 3 blade had a more scale appearance but the 2 blade had a lower amp draw allowing for a longer flight time. The motor was mounted with the X mount against F-2 and the bolt-on prop shaft was used. Due to the variation in motor lengths, it is best to prep your motor similarly (X mount and bolt on prop shaft). You next need to determine if you wish to use the included spinner or to use a commercial one. The included spinner takes some patience and work, but can yield a very lightweight and economical solution. If you choose to use a commercial one, it is best to have that available before the next step. Slide the back-plate onto the prop shaft of the motor and hold the motor in place flush against F-2. Review the gap between F-1 and the back-plate. If sufficient space is there, tack glue in place parts SF and check for spacing. If there IS sufficient spacing, F-2A can be glued to the BACK of F-2. If gluing to the back, use the plan guide to cut the top off of F- 2A as indicated (this is so it can fit under the Battery Mounting Plate). If there is NOT sufficient spacing between the back-plate and SF, try placing (unglued) F -2A in front of F-2; check for spacing. If there is sufficient spacing, glue F-2A to the FRONT of F-2. If additional spacing is needed even with F-2A in the front, FIGURE 16 you can either sand down the SF parts or add additional shims to the front of F-2A. If you choose to use the plastic spinner, now would be a good time to begin its construction. The spinner is made up of 4 parts, 3 ply discs (back-plate) and a plastic cone. The 3 discs are in decreasing diameter. See Figure 16. Stack them with the largest on the bottom getting smaller going up. There are 6, 1/8 holes around the outside of the plates. These are used FIGURE 17

9 to align the discs and are filled with 1/8 dowel. Glue the discs together, using the 1/8 dowel in the alignment holes. Be sure to keep the plates flat. See Figure 17. When dry, chuck the discs in a drill and run the drill, lightly sanding a slight bevel to the discs to conform to the inside of the cone. Test fit the discs/back-plate to the inside of the cone. Place the disc on a building board and shim underneath so that the cone can slide over the top of the back-plate and the flange can lay flat on the building board and the fit is snug; this may take some experimenting to find the correct shim height. Once satisfied with the fit, remove the cone and place the back-plate and then prop onto the prop shaft of your motor. Mark the locations of where the prop is located on the outside edge of the backplate. Place the back-plate back on-top of the shim on the building board (minus the prop); be sure the shim and back-plate are flat and level. Place the cone over the backplate; be sure it is flat on the building board. Mark a point 1/2 on either side of where the prop blade is located- centered vertically on the back-plate. Drill a hole using a 1/16 drill bit and install a #2 x 1/2 button head screw. Repeat the same for the other side of the propeller blade. See Figure 18. Drill and install and install 2-3 more screws in the area between the propeller locations. Cut out just enough of the cone for the propeller. Remove the spinner assembly from the building board and trim the excess cone/flange off of the cone. If the back-plate and cone were flat during assembly, you should now have a true spinning spinner. The prototype motor/battery set up used was a 400 KV motor running on 6 cells and the plastic spinner has been successful with that set up. Always test the spinner during FIGURE 18 the initial run up or with any different power combination a safe distance from you and others. Check the spinner frequently for any cracks and replace the cone as needed. THE SAFE OPERATION OF THE SPINNER AND MODEL IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE BUILDER AND OPERATOR. Mount the motor onto F-2 or F-2A using the centerlines marked from the plan. Install the spinner and blend SF to shape. Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder Set the fuse aside for now and start to prepare for the rudder. The rear part of the rudder is made from 3 laminations of 1/16 x 1/4 balsa. At the end of this manual you will find pages containing templates. These templates can be printed and used for the model. One neat trick is to print them onto Sticker Project Paper. You can find this at most office supply stores; while you are there pick up a ream of card stock. These are great tools for any modeler. Find the template for the rudder and print out. You can make

10 this template from either 1/4 balsa or from 6mm depron. If you have not worked with depron, this project would be a good beginner s choice. Depron is a dense foam that can be sanded easily. To-go dinner boxes and meat trays are made of the same foam. You can order this foam online or while at the office supply store pick up foam board. This is depron with paper on either side. To remove the paper, soak in warm water till the paper softens and you can peal it off. Use the paper template of the rudder to make one from the depron. Using a balsa stripper or X-acto, cut several strips of 1/16 x 1/4 to form the laminations for the tip. Pat Tritle has a great how to section that covers laminating parts (making bowed outlines). The info can be found here: His technique yields great results. Let this assembly dry overnight The some of vertical parts are made from 2 laminations; one of 1/8 and one of 1/4 balsa. These parts are numbered R-1 to R- 5 and part R-17. Glue the parts together and pin over the plan. Insert the remaining R parts. See Figure 20. Once it s dry, trim the rudder lamination and slide it into place. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. Now you can sand the leading and trailing edges to FIGURE 19 create the airfoil shape. The part is ready to be hinged and can be set aside for later. The prototype used CA hinges, but pinned hinges could be used. FIGURE 20 FIGURE 21 Wing Construction Prep for the wing construction by creating wingtip laminations the same way you did for the rudder. Begin with the left panel. From extra 1/4 balsa, make the washout jig from a 20 long strip. Cut to height on one end 5/16 and taper down to nothing on the other end. Pin to the plan just forward of the 1/16 x 1/2 trailing edge. Locate the Main Spar (MS), Retract Spar Front and Rear (RSF and RSR), and Front and Rear Aileron Posts (FAP and RAP). Bevel the front top and bottom edge of the Leading Edge, RSF, and

11 RSR to match the contour of the ribs (use W-1 and W-3 as a guide). Bevel the top trailing edge of the MS, FAP, and RAP to match the contour of the ribs (use W-1 and W-1 as a guide). Place clear tape on the front side of RAP, this will keep it from getting glued to the FAP during construction. Slide W-1, W-2A and W-3 on-top of MS, RSF, RSR, FAP, and RAP. Place over plans and pin in place. See Figure 22. BEVELED EDGES WASHOUT JIG FIGURE 22 Do not pin MS beyond W-7 or the Aileron Posts beyond W-5 as they will need flexibility for the washout. Slide the remaining ribs in place as well as the Leading Edge. The outer edge of FAP, RAP, and MS will need to be raised to match the washout. When satisfied with the fit, glue in place. Install the 1/8 square basswood stringers on the top and bottom. Glue the 4 laminations of T-5 together and glue in place on W- 11. When dry, trim and test fit the wing tip and align centered on the front and TIP FRONT rear of W-11. Test fit T-1 to T-4. You may need to bevel them slightly up or down to match the wing tip lamination. When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue in place. See Figure 23. Add the 1/16 x 1/2 trailing edge and glue in place. Glue the Wing Mounting Plate 2 Bottom in place. Make the Wing Mounting Plate 1 (Top and Bottom) and Wing Mounting Plate FIGURE 23 2 Top from the templates at the back of this manual. Slide Wing Mounting Plate 1, Top and Bottom, into the left panel W-1 notches. Slide into the right panel W-1 notches when it is slid into place. Unpin the left panel and build the right panel the same way. Connect the MS parts with a block of 1 x 2 x 1/4" balsa. Once complete, remove from the building board. Add the horn mounting plates, 1/4 square infill on the flap, 1/4" balsa block for the flap hinges, and servo mounting items per the plan. Add the 1/4" balsa leading edge, cut to height, and bevel to match the ribs; sand to contour. Infill the center section and radiator flap section per the plans with 1/8 balsa.

12 Determine the type of retracts you intend to use on the model. The prototype used Robart 609HD mechanical retracts. You could also use air, or there are several types of electric retracts in this size. It is best to fit them to RP-1 before gluing in place. When satisfied with the fit, slide RP-1 in place and glue the additional piece of W-1 in place. Make the Retract Mounting Plate from the template at the back of this manual and glue in FIGURE 24 place. The Retract Mounting Plate is where the servos are mounted if mechanical retracts are used. See Figure 25, Bevel the trailing edge of RP-2 (See Figure 24), and mount in place. Install the retracts and ensure smooth extension and retraction. MS JOINER RP-1 AND RP-2 RETRACT MOUNTING PLATE FIGURE 25 Lightly sand the entire wing assembly. Sand T-5 to shape and contour the rest of the tip. Cut the flaps and ailerons free, contour, and hinge according to the plans. Insert the wheel well covers with 1/16 balsa or use the templates in the back of the manual and make them from glossy cardstock. Make the servo mounting plates from 1/16 ply using the templates at the end of the manual. Mount the servos and hook up the controls. FIGURE 26 Final Assembly Test fit the horizontal stabilizer over the 1/4 x 1/8 basswood stringers on the fuse tail. The channel made by E-7 and the H-1s should slip right over the basswood stringers. Slide the vertical stabilizer into the same channel on the top. Check for alignment and FIGURE 27

13 fit; adjust as needed. Remove the center section of the elevator and install the 1/8 U wire joiner. Determine if you are going to mount the elevator and rudder servos near the tail-planes or where indicated on the plans. Install the control horns and any pushrods and exits as needed. See Figure 27. Be sure to secure pushrod tubes to avoid flexing. Install the tail wheel assembly per the plans. Test fit the wing and adjust as needed for a flush fit with the Wing Saddle. Square up the wing to the fuse and drill pilot holes into the Wing Mounting Plates on the wing through the fuse. Mount the wing with to 8-32 bolts. The wing fillet can be made from balsa block using the templates at the back of the manual. See Figure 28. WING FILLET FIGURE 28 Radiators and other Details Trim and test fit the canopy; remove K-2 if installing a cockpit. Make the wheel door covers from plastic sheet or ply. These were attached to the 3/16 landing gear wire by slipping 3/8 wheel collars over the wire and using short bolts going through the gear door and tightened in the wheel collar set screw location. See Figure 29. A small piece of 1/4" balsa was used to create the door contour. 3/8 WHEEL COLLAR FIGURE 29 The supercharger scoop, oil radiator and wing radiators were made from 6mm depron, but could also be made from 1/4" light balsa using the templates in the back of the manual. These can be HINGE LINE FIGURE 30

14 mounted with small screws or glued in-place after covering. The wing radiators need to be hinged if flaps are going to be used. Small pinned or easy hinges are used and a small pushrod is attached to W-3 and the radiator flap to allow for movement. See Figure The radiator flap could be cut free and glued to the main flap as a non-scale option. The supercharger scoop is made in 2 main sections and then glued together. The final piece is sanded, Spackled, and contoured. See Figure 33. All depron parts were covered with Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish to seal the foam. See Figure 34. FIGURE 31 FIGURE 32 W-3 FIGURE 33 FIGURE 34 Radio Installation Finalize your servo locations at this time. There are 4 servos in the wings, 2 for the aileron and 2 for the flaps. Ensure the flaps are moving in the correct direction and with the same amount of travel. Check the travel on the radiator flaps in conjunction with the main flaps. The radiator flaps should move slightly further than the main flaps creating a space between them when deployed. Hook-up the elevator and rudder servos; be sure to have smooth travel. Check that the tail wheel turns in the same direction as the rudder. The BEC and ESC can be mounted on top or below the Battery Mounting Plate. Test the motor to be sure it is running in the correct direction.

15 Covering and Finishing The prototype model was covered with Coverite Microlite iron-on film. Doculam is also a nice covering film substitute. If the model has been sheeted, there are multiple options for covering. If you intend to paint the model, its best to scuff the film surface with 600 grit sandpaper before attaching to the airframe; this will allow for better paint adhesion. After covering the model, the supercharger scoop, oil radiator and wing radiators can be mounted permanently if desired. The pilot can be installed and canopy attached. There are many options to paint your Me-109 after; the prototype s paint scheme was found here: Callie Graphics was used to make the markings: Install the batteries and balance the model per the range on the plans. The Me-109 is a stable flyer, with no noticeable negative tendencies. The prototype was powered with a 400KV motor controlled by a 60 amp ESC with an external BEC. The battery packs used are 2 3-cell 5000 Lipo packs in series yielding 7-8 minute flights. Further information can be found on the build at We here at Micko Scale Reproductions hope you enjoy building and flying your Messerschmitt Bf 109. We wish you many successful flights. We welcome you to send us pictures of your model, or offer suggestions to our at: mickoscalereproductions@hotmail.com Thanks again and Keep your face and wings in the wind.

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