Study on Visual Style of Twist Silk Knitted Fabrics

Transcription

1 2nd International Conerence on Inormation, Electronics and Computer (ICIEAC 2014) Study on Visual Style o Twist Sil Knitted Fabrics Yuan Fang, Ya-qun Zhang Department o Textile Engineering, College o Textile and Materials, Zheiang Sci-Tech University Hangzhou, China yuan123@126.com,zyq3951@126.com Cai-ying Lou Zheiang textile testing & research institute Hangzhou, China cttc_z@163.com Abstract The relationship between the twist and the visual style o the sil nitted abric was studied by testing abric related parameters. The eect o the twist on abric dropping property was also investigated. Meanwhile the grey clustering analysis method was applied to evaluate abric visual style. The results showed that with the increase o the yarn twist, the draping property became undesirable. The abrics nitted with twistless yarn and low-twist yarn showed the best properties on glossiness and drapability. The abrics nitted with mediumtwist yarn or high-twist yarn showed moderate glossiness and drapability, and the abrics nitted with hard-twist yarn show wea glossiness and were sti. Keywords-Twist sil, Knitted abrics, Visual style, Grey clustering analysis. 1 INTRODUCTION Sil nitted abric is loved by numerous people because o its elegant appearance, bright colors and smooth texture. Generally, people now sil abrics by visual sense and tactile sense. This psychological reaction which is produced by abric physical stimulation acting on people sense organ Samples Filament twist/(t/m) Yarn linear density/tex Table 1 the parameters o the samples Square meters grams (g/m 2 ) is abric style. The previous researches were mainly on the tactile style. There is little research on the analysis o abric visual style which is related with abric printing graphics and colors, abric glossiness, weave and draping property. Traditionally, abric glossiness and draping property are called abric visual style [1,2]. In this paper, some parameters which are related with the glossiness and dropping property o the sil nitted abrics with dierent weave and twist were tested. Besides, the grey clustering analysis method was applied to evaluate the visual style o the abrics. 2 EXPERIMENTAL 2.1 Preparation o the Samples In order to eliminate the inluence o dyes and get a more reliable result during the research on the relationship between the twist and the visual style, the abrics made o 100% sil beore dyeing were taen to be tested. The parameters o test samples were shown in Table1. Three o them were selected to tae the SEM photos which were shown in the Fig. 1. Longitudinal density/(lateral line (5cm) -1 Lateral density/(longitudi nal line (5cm) -1 Structure 1# Plain 2# Interloc 3# Plain 4# Interloc 5# Plain 6# Interloc 7# Plain 8# Interloc The authors - Published by Atlantis Press 112

2 (a)0 t/m Plain (b)569 t/m Plain 2.2 Test Methods and Results The test o glossiness The test o glossiness was done in standard atmospheric condition using the M524 glossiness tester, according to FZ/T o Determination o abric glossiness. The parameters related with the glossiness in this test included regular relection light G S and diuse relection light G. Meanwhile the gloss o the abric R G C, also called contrast gloss, was calculated by the ollowing equation. G G S C (1) GS GR The test o draping property The test o drapability was done in standard atmospheric condition using the YG811 draping tester according to GB/T o Determination o abric drapability. The test o bending behavior was done in standard (c)2205 t/m Plain (d)2110 t/m Interloc atmospheric condition with the SDL stiness tester Fig. 1 The electronic scanning photo o the abrics with according to GB/T o Determination o dierent twist bending behavior Part 1: Incline method The results o the test Table 2 The test data o abric glossiness and draping property glossiness Draping property Samples diuse regular relection contrast gloss G C / Drape Bending bending stiness/( relection light light G S /% (% G R /% ) coeicient/% length/cm mn cm) 1# # # # # # # # THE ANALYSIS OF EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS 3.1 Analysis o the Glossiness Test Results The relationship between yarn twist and abric glossiness was obtained as shown in Fig. 2. The itting curve o the regular relection light was Y=0.0164X and the correlation coeicient was The itting curve o the diuse relection light was Y= X and the correlation coeicient was The itting curve o the contrast gloss was Y=-6.3E-6X X and the correlation coeicient was From Fig. 2, we could ind that with the increase o the yarn twist, the intensity o the abrics regular relection light was gradually weaened, while the intensity o the diuse relection light was gradually increased. The contrast gloss achieved its maximum value when the intensity dierence between the regular relection light and the diuse relection light reached minimum value. The iber in twistless yarn was parallel to the axis o the yarn. When the parallel light beam reached the yarn surace, more regular relection light was produced. While the iber in twisted yarn was inclined, the relection light on the yarn surace was scattered. The more twist the yarn taen, the greater incline o the iber would be, and the scattering would also become more severe. So the maximum contrast gloss was obtained when the intensity dierence between the regular relection light and the diuse relection light became minimum according to the Eq. 1. At this time, the total amount o light intensity is relatively high. 113

3 Fig. 2 The relationship between yarn twist and abric Glossiness Fig. 3 The relationship between yarn twist and abric draping property 3.2 Analysis o the Draping Property Test Results The relationship between the abric draping property and the yarn twist was shown in the Fig. 3. The itting curve o the drapability was Y=0.0060X and the correlation coeicient was The itting curve o bending stiness was Y=0.0001X and the correlation coeicient was From Fig. 3, it could be observed that with the increase o the yarn twist the value o abric drape coeicient and bending stiness both increased. This was because when the yarn was twisted, the centripetal orce acted on the sil in the yarn would be enhanced. Then the entanglement orce and the riction orce among sil were enhanced. Thereore the yarn stiness was increased and the abric drapability was weaened. 4 COMPREHENSIVE EVALUATION OF THE FABRIC VISUAL STYLE 4.1 Selection o Research Method Table 2 showed that the abrics with dierent weave and twisted yarn had dierent perormances in the tests o glossiness and draping property. It was hard to evaluate the visual style o the abrics through the data in the table. Mathematical methods were used in some literatures [6-8] to analyze the test data. In this paper grey clustering analysis was employed to classiy the visual style o the sil nitted abrics. 4.2 Processing o the Data The establishment o clustering whitenizati-on number matrix Eight samples in table 2 were taen as the obect o grey clustering analysis and the six perormance parameters were labeled as clustering index M(=1,2,3,4,5,6). In this analysis processing, the abric comprehensive perormance was divided into three grey classes. The abric perormance, both good in glossiness and draping property, was labeled as 1. The abric perormance, both moderate in glossiness and draping property, was labeled as 2. The abric perormance, wea in glossiness and sti was labeled as 3. The clustering whitenization number matrix could be obtained by mean treatment or the data in table 2. The Eq. 2 below was used in this processing. x n d i1 n d 1 (2) ( x) nm The determination about Whitenization interval o grey class The interval o grey class(1,2,3) was deine according to clustering index M(=1,2,3,4,5,6). To get better visual style, bigger clustering indexes which relected abric glossiness, including the regular relection light, diuse relection light and contrast gloss, were wanted. On the contrary, smaller clustering indexes, including drape coeicient, bending length and bending stiness were preered. Meanwhile the Whitenization interval could be determined with dimensionless mean value by the proessional nowledge. The result was shown in table 3. Table 3 Grey clustering interval Clustering index Q (Good interval ) 1 Q (Medium interval ) 2 Q (Bad interval ) 3 M1 [1.01, ) [1-ε,1+ε] (0,0.80] 114

4 M2 [1.15, ) [1-ε,1+ε] (0,0.80] M3 [1.50, ) [1-ε,1+ε] (0,0.75] M4 (0,0.90] [1-ε,1+ε] [1.35, ) M5 (0,0.95] [1-ε,1+ε] [1.10, ) M6 (0,0.80] [1-ε,1+ε] [1.50, ) The determination o Whitenization weight unction Based on the clustering index M and the typical was category, the Whitenization weight unction x deined. The method o extended value was applied in the paper, which was shown as ollowing [8]: a) I visual style was both good in glossiness and drapability, the Whitenization weight unction was shown as ollowing: x x (3) Q1min b) I visual style was moderate in glossiness and drapability, the Whitenization weight unction was shown as ollowing: Q1min x x tends to the good grey number x (4) x x xtends to the bad grey number Q 3max c) I visual style was undesirable in glossiness and drapability, the Whitenization weight unction was shown as ollowing: x Q 3max (5) x I the smaller dimensionless value o a clustering index meant better visual style, the numerator and the denominator o the ormula change their position, as well as the upper limit value and the lower limit value The determination o calibration clustering weight To ind the calibration clustering weight the was deined as the boundary value o the index and subclass. Then according to the Eq. 6, grey number matrix o the clustering weight could be obtained. (6) m The calculation o grey clustering coeicient For the matrix o whitenization number x n m, the grey clustering coeicient which the obect i belonged to the grey class could be calculated according to the Eq. 7 based on the whitenization weight unction and the weight value. m 1 x (7) i 4.3 Comprehensive Evaluation o the Visual Style The matrix above had 3 columns which relected the abric visual style. The irst column meant the abric with good glossiness and draping property, the second column meant the abric with moderate glossiness and draping property and the third column meant the abrics with wea glossiness and bad draping property. While the category o abric visual style was decided by the maximum number in each line, According to the calculated results, the ollowing conclusions could be obtained: 1)The samples with both good glossiness and draping property were 1#, 2#, 3# and 4#. 2)The samples with moderate glossiness and draping property were 5# and 6#. 3)The samples with bad glossiness and draping property were 7# and 8#. 4)Two samples nitted with almost equal twist, such as 1# 2#, 3# 4# and 7# 8#, had dierent index value. It could be obtained that the value o the plain nitted abric was bigger than that o the interloc nitted abric, which showed that compared with interloc stitch, plain stitch could express category characteristics o visual style better. 5 SUMMARY 1) The paper investigated the visual style o the abrics which were nitted with dierent twist yarn and weave by the experimental research and grey clustering analysis method. The experimental results showed that the abrics nitted with twistless yarn and low-twist yarn had the best glossiness and drapability, The abrics nitted with mediumtwist yarn and high-twist yarn had moderate glossiness and drapability. While the abrics nitted with hard-twist yarn showed wea glossiness and were sti. 115

5 2) With the increase o the yarn twist, the intensity o the abric regular relection light was gradually weaened while the intensity o the diuse relection light was gradually increased. The contrast gloss achieved its maximum value or the abric nitted with yarn twist 600 t/m. 3) For the abrics nitted with the yarn which had equal twist, plain stitch could express the category characteristics o visual style better compared with the interloc stitch. REFERENCES [1] Zhang H Q, Liu H. The visual style o garment abrics [J]. Journal o Textile Research, 2003, 24(3): [2] Sun Y, Guo J C, Yang J Z. Study on the visual style o worsted abrics [J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2008, 12: [3] Yang J Z. Luster and structure o optim iber and its blended abrics [J].Journal o Textile Research, 2007, 28(2): [4] Liu S N. Study on the relationship between the luster o woven abric and its speciication actors [D], Zheiang:Department o Textile Engineering in Zheiang Sci- Tech University. [5] Yu W D, Chu C Y. Textile physics [M]. Shanghai: The Publishing House o Donghua University, [6] Zhou R, Yang M X, Liu J. Comprehensive evaluation o properties o new regenerated cellulose iber yarns [J]. Journal o Textile Research, 2013, 34(2): [7] Zhu C Q.Grey prediction modeling via grey relational weighting [J].The Journal o Grey System, 2001, 13(3); [8] Wang X Q. Application o Fuzzy to Textile Industry [M], Hongong:The Publishing House o Kaiyi,