Small cross body bag

Transcription

1 Trudy Dimensions: Small cross body bag 8 ½ x 8 ½ x 2 ½ This little cross body bag has 1 slip pocket under the flap and 1 zippered pocket on the back. Both pockets are batted for extra security for when you put your phone in. If you interchange the tongue lock for a button then the rest of the bag needs no hardware. This pattern has pattern pieces and cutting labels so you can simply use a rotary cutter and ruler. Important information is noted on the pattern pieces and on the cutting labels. If you don t print this pattern, do print the page with the cutting labels. When printing, do not select Fit to Printable Area or enlarge/shrink in any way. Always print at Actual Size or 100%.

2 Lingo Basting or a basting stitch: Sewing using a longer stitch length. This is a stitch that will not be visible. We baste to hold fabric together so it will not shift and to make closing easier. It will not harm you to stitch with a regular stitch length. However, if you were not correct and have to undo your stitches, you have more stitches to undo. Basting is in fact a machine version of tacking. You can always use glue to baste. You are then glue basting. SA/Seam Allowance: Zipper installation seam allowance is usually ¼ inch when using a zipper foot attachment. All seam allowances are included in the pattern pieces. I will mention the SA when you are stitching. Back stitching: Back stitching is sewing in forward and reverse over the same set of stitches to lock them at the beginning and end of a line of sewing. WST/WS: an abbreviation that stands for Wrong Side Together OR Wrong Side which indicates which way the fabric should face. RST/RS: an abbreviation that stands for Right Side Together OR Right Side which indicates which way the fabric should face. RSU/WSU: Right Side Up or Wrong Side Up. The fabric is facing. The right side is the side that you want everybody to see. Stitch in the ditch: Stitch in the ditch is a machine quilting technique where you sew inside the seam line. This is often done with invisible thread or a matching color thread. Stitch in the ditch is usually chosen when you don t want to see your sewing line. Because the stitch is in the ditch of the seam line it tends to disappear. This technique can be difficult to master and using a stitch in the ditch foot is very recommended. If you don t own a foot with a guide, any foot with an open toe can be used. It s important that you are able to see where you are sewing. Watch this video if it is still not clear to you: Block fusing: Cut out the fashion fabric, cut out the interfacing, and fuse the two pieces together. Try not to get interfacing glued on your iron or ironing board cover. Block fuse interfacing to a section of your fabric, and then cut out the pattern pieces requiring interfacing from this stabilized fabric Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 2/33

3 Ingredients I suggest you use quilting weight cotton for the outside and the lining. You can make this bag with 3 fat quarters if you make the strap out of fabric. Half a yard of quilting weigh cotton is more then enough. If you want to make the lining in anothker fabric, then you will need a second colour. When using cork, pleather or leather, I advice you to use quilting weigh cotton for the gussets. See the cutting labels for the cutting dimensions. Spices (interfacing and other not visible but utterly important stuff) Medium woven interfacing See the cutting labels for pieces that need to be interfaced. Light nonwoven interfacing for the lining and the top strip. You can use normal woven interfacing for the lining, but if you don t have light interfacing, don t interface the top strip all together. FormFuse Legacy/Pellon 931TD or SF101 - Vilene G405,... Light non-woven interfacing Sure-Bond Light, Legacy/Pellon 906F, Vilene H180,... Headliner or foam or fleece To pad the pockets for extra cushion. Headliner from a car company, basal foam, soft and stable, vilene 640,... Tools and notions The Basic: A sewing machine, seam ripper, scissors, thread and fabric (that goes without saying). A rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat (it s important that you cut your pattern pieces very accurately). A ruler, clips or pins, a Frixion pen, Fabri-tac (fabric glue). Especially for this pattern: 1 normal dress zipper #3 (at least 10 long). On the instructions I use a zipper that is 14, because that is what I had in my zipper stash. It s easy to cut down a zipper, but you can not grow an inch. 1 tongue lock (but it works with a snap or KAM snap evenly well Use the longer flap when using a snap) 10 pre-made piping Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 3/33

4 Cutting lables for Trudy Slip pocket outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 2) woven interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) headliner: cut 1 on dotted line A A Flap (version for tonguelock) outer fabric: 4 x 4 1/2 (cut 2) woven interfacing: 4 x 4 1/2 (cut 2) headliner: cut 1 on dotted line B B Top zipper side outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 2 1/2 (cut 1) woven interfacing: 8 1/2 x 2 1/2 (cut 1) C Lining zipper pocket top lining fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) light interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) D Lining zipper pocket bottom lining fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) light interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) E Outer zipper pocket outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) woven interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) headliner: cut 1 on dotted line F Top slip pocket side outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 6 1/4 (cut 1) woven interfacing: 8 1/2 x 6 1/4 (cut 1) G Bottom outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 (cut 1) woven interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 (cut 1) H Lining lining fabric: 9 ⅜ x 15 (cut 1) light interfacing: 9 ⅜ x 15 (cut 1) I Gusset outer fabric: 15 x 2 ½ (cut 2) woven fusible interfacing: 15 x 2 ½ (cut 2) J Top strip outer fabric: 18 3/4 x 1 ½ (cut 1) light interfacing: 18 3/4 x 1 ½ (cut 1) Flap (version for snap) outer fabric: 4 x 5 1/2 (cut 2) woven interfacing: 4 x 5 1/2 (cut 2) headliner: cut 1 on dotted line K B Strap outer fabric: 56 x 3 (cut 1) or make a strip that has this total length (see next page for info how to do this) woven interfacing 55 x 1 ½ (cut 1) If you are a short person, it s possible a strip that is 44 will fit you better. Just check on a bag you have now how long you want your strap to be. L Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 4/33

5 Sewing with directional fabric Some fabrics have an all over pattern that has no particular direction to it. These fabrics could have the same pattern all over, like spots or stars, or they could have a print that has no right or wrong orientation. I have some childrens fabric that has cars and vans printed both upside down and right way up, so no matter which way I cut and sew that fabric, there will always be some cars that look right and others that look wrong. That is the way it is meant to be. Directional fabrics have a pattern that only looks right in one direction. It could be that all the dolls are facing one way, or it could have a scene that runs along the length or width of the fabric. When working with a fabric like this you need to be careful which way you cut and sew it. For example, you don t want the deer to be be standing on their heads! Example: The lining in this bag does not have a seam at the bottom as it is made from one piece of fabric. If you are sewing with a directional fabric, then in order for your fabric to be the right way around on both sides, you will need to make a seam in the middle to accommodate your directional print. This is your rule of thumb: Divide the total length of the piece by two and add your seam allowances (for example: 1/4 ) to each piece. Cut two pieces with these dimensions. Turn one of the pieces upside down. (Since the fabric is directional, you will clearly see which is the top and which is the bottom) Lay the 2 pieces right sides together on top of each other with the bottom of each piece together. Sew them together with the SA you calculated with to cut the pieces of fabric - be sure that you are stitching across the bottom and NOT the top!!!. Fold open and turn right side down. Finger press the seam open and press with your iron. Now you have a piece of fabric that should be the same length as called for in the pattern, it will have a seam across the middle, but the directional print is correct on both sides. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 5/33

6 Make your own piping without a sewing machine What do you need? If your piping is to be used on a straight piece of fabric, you cut your piping on the straight grain of the fabric. If your piping is to be used on an area that incorporates a curve, then your piping needs to be cut on the bias of the fabric. That is to cut the fabric at a 45 degree angle relative to the grain of the fabric. 1-1/2 wide strips cut on the bias (that is, cut on a 45 degree angle most quilting rulers have this measurement on them). The strips, combined, need to equal the area that you want to cover 5/32 cotton cording, this needs to be as long as the area that you want to cover. You can buy special piping cord, but any cord will do. I use curtain cord, another tester used washing cloth line. Size is not really important. Fusible web tape. I buy mine in China, but Pellon has Wonder Under paper-backed tape Glue stick If your piping needs to be longer than the width of one strip of your fabric, you will need to assemble the strips. See the next page on how to do that. If your fusible web strip is paper backed, then fuse the fusible web strip to the WRONG SIDE of the top half of your strip. Give it a good fuse (several seconds on each segment). Before removing the paper from the fusible web strip, you need to be sure it is completely cooled. If you re in a rush and don t let it cool, you will find it very difficult to remove the paper in a clean way. So, just go get yourself a drink. Lay the cording in the center of the strip. Then fold the long ends of the strip so that the fabric is wrong sides together. Match the raw edged on both sides. If you use the one without backing paper then it s a little more tricky (but at the end so much cheaper.) You cannot fuse the tape, since without the backing paper it would fuse to your iron. Just put it down on the fabric and take extra care in the next few steps. Hold down the strip of web and try to aim as best as you can. Place the cord on top of the web and then with your iron, start at one end and press slowly just with the tip of your iron very close to the cording. It will be very snug in the middle of the strip. The adhesive of the fusible web holds the cording in it s place. I find it a lot easier to use a mini iron to do this. Lastly you can use a glue stick. My glue stick is only about 1/4 wide. I run the stick down the centre of the bias strip. Add the piping cord on top of this just laying it in place. Fold the long edges of the fabric Wrong sides together. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 6/33

7 Making a long strap from different pieces Since this bag does not need a lot of fabric, chances are you will not have a piece that measures 56 by 3. So let s make this piece. Simply sewing together two pieces would make a huge bulky bump in our strap. So that is a no no. We are going to sew them together the bias strip way. For that, place one piece of fabric right side up and another right side down (figure a). Align the raw edges from bottom and right end of the horizontal piece. Then move the top piece ⅛ to the left and to the bottom. Pin well so it will not shift. Draw a line from the top right corner to the bottom left corner where the two pieces meet. Sew over this line. Trim so you have a SA of ¼. (figure b) figure a figure b Fold the vertical piece of fabric down so it is now right side up. Flip the two pieces so everything is wrong side up. (figure c) Finger press the seam open and press well with your iron. When folding this piece of fabric to a strap, you will not have a double seam at any point and by that avoid a bump. figure c Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 7/33

8 Making a strap the fold - unfold - fold fold fold way These are instructions to make a strap the normal way. By normal, I mean, the way you would typically make a fabric strap for your purse. Take a piece of woven interfacing that is 1/2 the width of your strap and fuse it in the centre of your fabric piece. When you fuse over the seam, make sure the seam stays open. Then take the big length and fold it in half (the first fold) You can skip this step if you like to mark this middle line with a pen. Unfold it and fold each long edge to the middle so they barely touch. It s best is if you have a 1/16 gap. (second fold) Fold in half again. Topstitch 1/8 from each side. If you want to go fancy, make a second stich 1/4 from the edge. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 8/33

9 Start by cutting the strap pieces. In total you need a strip that is 56 long by 3 wide. See previous page on how to do that. Exept for the gussets, top strip and the flaps, all pieces are 8 ½ wide. So you can block fuse and then cut. You will need 3 little pieces of headliner or foam to make the pocket thicker so you can put a phone in them while it is protected. Flap Take the 2 pieces B (one of them is interfaced) and piece B headliner. If you use fusible foam or headliner, make sure it is small enough so that it will not be stuck in the seam. Place the 2 pieces B right sides together on top of each other. You can sew the non fusible headliner directly with the fabric. Fusible foam needs to be fused after you have sewn the seams. Stitch around the sides and the round top with a ¼ SA, Leaving the bottom open. Cut the headliner/foam as close to the seam as possible. When using foam or fusible fleece, fuse it now to 1 side of the flap and make sure your piece is 1/16 smaller then the seam line. Fuse/glue the foam to the side that has interfacing on it. Trim the seam to ⅛. Turn the flap inside out. Finger press and then press with your iron. If you like topstitching, topstitch with a ⅛ SA. Set aside for now. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 9/33

10 Piped front pocket What will you need to complete these steps: 2 pieces A (one of them is interfaced), piece A headliner and piece of piping. Take the interfaced piece A (outer fabric) and lay it in front of you right side up. Place the piping on top of this piece with the raw edges lined up with the raw edges of the top of this piece. I use glue to glue baste piece of piping to the fabric. If you don t like glue, just baste stitch. Lay lining piece A on top of the fabric with lining and (glue) baste again. Use your piping foot or zipper foot to sew the lining, piping and fabric together. Sew next to the pipingline. It s not utterly important what SA you use here. The pocket wil just be a tad bigger or smaller, but only with ⅛ Trim the seam allowance to ⅛ SA with pinking shears or make notches with your normal scissors. Fold the pocket inside out. Finger press and press with your iron. Lay piece of headliner A in between the fabric and lining. Butt piece of fleece/headliner/foam as close to the top seam as possible. Since I use headliner (not fusible) I use Fabric-tac to glue the headliner to the fabric and lining. Make sure that at the end, your lining and your outer fabric are even in length. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 10/33

11 Top stitch with a ⅛ SA the fabric, headliner and lining on the top of the pocket. Now is the time to add the base piece of your tonguelock, fliplock or magnetic snap. Center it from both sides and about 5/8 from the piping. Only place it on the outside layer of your fabric, not through both layers. To finish this front pocket, take your just finish piped pocket and piece G. Place the piped pocket on top of piece G. Align bottom and sides and clip together. This is a good location for a sew in label if you like to add one. Baste stitch the sides and bottom. I use a zigzag stitch to flatten the sides even more. Set aside for now. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 11/33

12 Zippered back pocket You will need pieces C, D, E and F, piece F headliner and the zipper. For the first step, you need piece F, the outer zipper pocket and piece E, the lining zipper pocket bottom and zipper. Lay piece F right side up in front of you and the zipper right side down (the zipper pull is on the bottom) and with the zipper pull at the left (if you want the zipper pocket to open from left to right). Align raw edge of zipper with the raw edge of fabric. Leave a little from the zipper on both sides. I do this to make it easier. If your zipper is the exact size, make sure all metal is still outside the dimensions of the pocket. (Glue) baste. Place piece E (bottom lining) right side down on top of the zipper with top raw edge aligned to the zipper. Align with fabric below. Glue or clip. The zipper is now sandwiched between the 2 layers of fabric With your zipper foot attached, sew the 2 layers of fabric and the zipper with a ¼ SA. With the outer fabric on top, place your piece of headliner on top of it, a tad under the stitched line. If it is fusible, fuse. If it is non fusible, glue. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 12/33

13 Fold the two pieces of fabric away from the stitched line. The headliner is now sandwiched between 2 layers of fabric. Finger press and then check to be sure all is smooth before using your iron to press the fold. Top stitch with a ⅛ SA. Lay the just created construction in front of you with the outer fabric right side up and the zipper at the top. Take piece C (top zipper side) and lay this right side down on top of the zipper with the top side of the zipper aligned with the raw side of the fabric and fabric below. (Glue) baste. Turn this construction so now the lining is right side up and the zipper is still on top of your construction but the zipper pull is now at the right and the zipper pull is down. Take piece D (lining zipper pocket top) and lay this on top of the zipper right side down and the top aligned with the top of the zipper. Glue or clip. With your zipper foot attached, sew the 2 layers of fabric and the zipper with a ¼ SA. Fold the outer fabric away from the just stitched line to the top. The lining piece stays down. (see next picture) Pin the lining down if that is easier for you) Press with your iron and top stitch with a ⅛ SA. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 13/33

14 Are you using a fancy zipper or #5 zipper, then you will see the lining will be too short. Just shorten this pocket a little, and you will be fine. Move the zipper pull to the center of the pocket. Cut the zipper so you end up with a zipper that is the same size as your pocket. Trim the headliner that is overflowing the edges. Make some stitches to secure the zipper at the left side as well as on the right. We will not want the zipper pull to leave the zipper. To much mess ;-) If your machine can zig zag, zig zag around the edges of your bottom pocket. This will flatten the thickness of the headliner. Construction of the middle panel You will need the finished zipper pocket side, the finished slip pocket side and piece H (Bottom). Take your slip pocket piece and lay it in front of you right side up. Put piece H right side down on top of this pocket, bottom raw edges aligned. Clip or glue. Sew them together with a ⅜ SA. Fold the bottom piece down and finger press. Lay your finished zipper pocket right side down on top of the bottom piece. Align the bottom edges. Clip or glue. Sew them together with a ⅜ SA. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 14/33

15 Press both seam allowances toward the bottom. Flip right side up and top stitch ¼ from the seam, through both the bottom and seam allowance of the zipper pocket. Repeat this for the slip pocket. Gussets You will need the just finished middle panel and the two pieces J (gusset) Put the middle panel in front of you, right side up. Place one gusset piece right sides together on top of the middle panel. Align the top of the gusset and the panel. Clip or pin. Your gusset might be a tad too long. Don t worry, we will trim it in a later step. This is because not all zippers have the same width or because your ¼ SA was not exact. Sew with a ⅜ SA. Fold the gusset up. Press both seam allowances toward the gusset. Repeat for the other side of the panel. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 15/33

16 Trim the gussets so they are even with the middle panel. Flip your panel so it is right side down. Fold the gussets to the middle over the seam allowances. Press. Pin the gusset down. Flip again so your panel is right side up. You will see the gussets form a self binding edge. If you have a stitch in the ditch foot, this is the time to use it. Stitch in the sink where the gusset and the middle panel meet. This is called stitch in the ditch. This is what you see on the back of your panel. Fold the gusset pieces open as much as possible. Iron this to have a better crease on the seam. When you fold the panel with the right side facing you again, you will see that there are sort of fins at each of the sides. These are the self binding seams. Just fold the self binding seam towards the middle of the panel. This will make your next step 100 times easier. Pinning this down will not be easy, but remember: it is for a good cause. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 16/33

17 Fold the panel in half right sides together and pin the gussets together. I use pins to hold them together, clips will not be strong enough here. Stitch with a ⅜ SA. Be very careful that your fabric will not shift. Back stitch at the top and bottom. Do you have the feeling your foot does not fit? Read the previous step again. Have you forgotten that? Press a crease in the bottom. Finger press the seams open, and press with your iron. Use both of your hands to pinch and pull apart the corner. As you keep pulling, the fabric will begin to make a little peak with the corner point at the top and the seam lines running down the middle of the front and the back. Align these side seams with the crease we made at the bottom. You can put a pin in this matched seams to hold them together. It is very important that you exactly match the seam with the crease to end up with a good looking corner. Draw a line ½ in from the corner. This will be very close to the binding on the inside. It is very important that you sew this line next to the binding and that you do not stitch into the binding. To make sure you are sewing next to the binding, grab inside the bag and fold the binding to the middle of the pocket, away from the corner. You like to see how to make a boxed corner in a video? Watch on youtube how Wendi Gratz explains it. Trim the corner to a ⅛ SA. Now do the same for the other side. Remove the pins before you turn the bag. You will pinch yourself if you forget this. How would I know? ;-) Turn the bag inside out and fold the binding to the sides again. Press this bag. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 17/33

18 Place the flap in the middle of the top (zipper pocket side) and match the notches from the top piece and the notches from the flap piece. Baste stitch together with a ⅛ SA. Construction of the lining Fold the lining in half right sides together Sew both sides with a ⅜ SA. Trim SA to ⅛. Finger press the seams open and press them open. Now do the same for the other side. We are going to sew boxed corners in the lining. Finger press a crease in the bottom. Pinch and pull apart the corner. As you keep pulling, the fabric will begin to make a little peak with the corner point at the top and the seam lines running down the middle of the front and the back. Align these side seams with the crease we made at the bottom. Draw a line ½ in from the corner. Stitch over this line. Back stitch at the end and in the beginning. Trim the corner to ⅛ SA. Press the creases out. Keep the lining with the wrong side out. We now have finished the outer shell and the lining. Check if you placed the notches on the top? If you forgot, now is the best time to mark the middle of the lining top (front and back) and the middle of the outer bag (also front and back) Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 18/33

19 Place the lining with wrong sides facing each other, into the outer bag. (Wrong side of outer bag is facing wrong side of lining). Align the seams in the lining with the seams in the gussets. Do this for both sides. The lining will be smaller then the outer bag. That is normal. Align the notches in the lining with the notches on your outer bag. Pin the lining to the outer the complete length of the front and back panel. Leave the gussets for now. Baste stitch the lining to the outer bag. (I used a zig zag) With the seam from the lining and the seam from the gusset together, make a pleat in the gusset and fold the bindings to the seam of the gusset. You will probably not reach as far as the seam. That wont hurt the final result. Fold it as far as possible so the outer bag will be the same width as the lining. Clip or pin and baste stitch Do this for all four bindings. Take your strap. Place the end of the strap over the outside of the seam and align the raw edges of the strap with the raw edges of the gusset top. Check if your strap is placed in the middle of the seam and make sure the strap is not twisted.. Clip and baste stitch. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 19/33

20 The complete lining is now basted to your outer bag. Don t worry about the raw edges. In the next steps we are going to hide them. Take top strip K Step 1: Fold it in half so you end up with a long small strip. Press with your iron. Unfold. Step 2: Fold in half again so the two short sides meet and the right sides are together. Sew with a ⅜ SA. Trim to ⅛. Finger press the seam open and press with your iron. Fold in half again over the crease we made in step 1. By doing it this way, it will be much easier to fold this thin strip correctly in 2. Place the strip with the raw edges on top over the outside of the bag (also over the flap). Match the seam with the notch in the flap. Clip together every 2 inch. Make sure this will not move. Baste stitch (or zig zag). (yes this is the second time we baste stitch. Trust me, there is method to this madness. You can skip this for your second bag if you trust yourself. I have sewn lots of these bags, and I still do it) Stitch a definitive line with a ¼ SA. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 20/33

21 Trim the seam on the sides where the straps are attached and the binding is basted to the sides (and only there). Make sure you don t cut into the stitch line we just made. Fold the strip up and the seam down. Press. Fold the strip to the inside of the bag. On the top edge you will see the seam. Take your time to do this and be as precise as possible. Press (again, I know. Do it. Press). Clip so it will not move. Or glue the strip down. It s important it will not move. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 21/33

22 Do you have a machine without a free arm? Follow these instructions first: Turn the bag inside out. (the outside will be in the middle, and you will see the lining on the outside). Top stitch around the entire top edge of the bag with a ⅜ SA. Top stitch again with a ½ SA. You will have 2 rows of stitching, the last one barely on the edge of the strip (check on the inside) If for some reason your strip is not that wide (because you did not use quilting cotton) adjust the SA for the top stitch. Attach the second part of the tongue lock. Since your tongue lock will be different then mine, I will not explain that here. Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 22/33

23 You are done! Did you have fun? Tell others. Use the hashtag #serialtrudy on Facebook and Instagram. Sew up a storm. The help of Elves is prohibited. Elves can always buy the pattern themselves and then start sewing up a storm. You can sell all the bags and wallets you can sew yourself. You don t need to mention my name or give me any credit. after all, you sewed it But if someone asks, it would be nice if you could tell them where to find my pattern so that I can save up for an industrial machine! You are welcome to share this pattern with your sister or your best friend but please don t share it with the whole internet After all, I need money for fabrics and patterns myself! Mass Production (more than what 1 person can sew in a day) is strictly prohibited unless you send me a percentage of the profits! Happy Sewing! You had huge problems? You want to throw the pattern away? You found errors? Tell me. Then I can fix things. In return I will send you another pattern for free. Serialbagmakers@gmail.com Website : Facebook : Group: Instagram: Youtube: COPYRIGHT AND LICENSING INFORMATION 2016 Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 23/33

24 1 inch test square Slip pocket outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 2) woven fusible interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) fusible fleece or foam or headliner (cut 1 on dotted line) Trudy A Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 24/33

25 B (version with snaps or turnlock) Flap outer fabric: 4 x 5 1/2 (cut 2) woven fusible interfacing: 4 x 51/2 (cut 1) headliner: cut on dotted line (cut 1) 1 inch test square Trudy B (version with tonguelock) Flap outer fabric: 4 x 4 1/2 (cut 2) woven fusible interfacing: 4 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) headliner: cut on dotted line (cut 1) 1 inch test square Trudy Since a tonguelock add length to your flap, you will need a longer flap if you want to use a (magnetic) snap or fliplock Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 25/33

26 1 inch test square Lining zipper pocket top lining fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 (cut 1) Trudy D Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 26/33

27 1 inch test square Lining zipper pocket bottom lining fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) Trudy E Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 27/33

28 1 inch test square Outer zipper pocket outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) woven fusible interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 1/8 (cut 1) headliner: cut on dotted lines F Trudy Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 28/33

29 1 inch test square Top (slip pocket side) outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 6 1/4 (cut 1) woven fusible interfacing: 8 1/2 x 6 1/4 (cut 1) Trudy G Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 29/33

30 1 inch test square Bottom outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 4 (cut 1) woven fusible interfacing: 8 1/2 x 4 (cut 1) Trudy H Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 30/33

31 1 inch test square Lining lining fabric: 9 3/8 x 15 (cut 1) light non woven fusible interfacing: : 9 3/8 x 15 (cut 1) Trudy cut on fold I Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 31/33

32 J1 Butt up to j1 to form 1 long gusset J2 Trudy Gusset outer fabric: 15 x 2 1/2 (cut 2) woven fusible interfacing: 15 x 2 1/2 (cut 2) 1 inch test square Trudy Butt up to j2 to form 1 long gusset Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 32/33

33 Top strip K1 outer fabric: 18 3/4 x 1 1/2 (cut 1) Trudy Butt up to k1 to form 1 long strip Butt up to k2 to form 1 long strip K2 Trudy 1 inch test square C Top (zipper side) outer fabric: 8 1/2 x 2 1/2 (cut 1) woven fusible interfacing: 8 1/2 x 2 1/2 (cut 1) 1 inch test square Trudy Serial Bagmakers Trudy - Page 33/33