Process control in. textile manufacturing. Abhijit Majumdar, Apurba Das, R. Alagirusamy andv.k.kothari. ppshr- Edited by. The Textile Institute > ±M

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1 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 131 Process control in textile manufacturing Edited by Abhijit Majumdar, Apurba Das, R. Alagirusamy andv.k.kothari The Textile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING ppshr- ^ > ±M Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi

2 Contents Contributor contact details Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles Foreword xi xiv xix Part I General issues 1 1 Basics of process control in textile manufacturing 3 Vedpal and V. Jain, Indian Institute oftechnology Delhi, India 1.1 Introduction Process mapping, analysis and control Statistical process control (SPC) and improving processes Future trends References 13 2 Basic principles of control systems in textile manufacturing 14 S. S. Saha, Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Berhampore, India 2.1 Introduction Components of control systems The control system design process Digital control systems Intelligent control systems using soft computing Application of control systems in textile processing References 39 3 Testing and statistical quality control in textile manufacturing 41 A. Das, Indian Institute oftechnology Delhi, India 3.1 Introduction: statistical quality control Basic measurement concepts in statistical quality control 42 v

3 vi Contents 3.3 Interpretations: critical difference Interpretations: 'f' tests, 'F' tests and the chi-square method Decision-making using control charts Decision-making: hypothesis testing Decision-making: significance testing Testing fibre and yarn properties Testing fabric properties References 78 Part II Process control in fibre production and yarn manufacture 79 4 Process and quality control in cultivating natural textile fibres 81 M. Zimniewska, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants, Poland, I. Frydrych, Technical University of Lodz, Poland, J. Mankowski, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants, Poland, and W. TkYWiANSKA, Gdynia Cotton Association, Poland 4.1 Introduction Control of cotton fibre quality Indexes for cotton fibre quality Process control in harvesting Control of natural lignocellulosic/bast fibre quality: climatic conditions Process control in production Evaluating fibre quality Future trends References Process control in the manufacturing of synthetic textile fibres 109 B. L. Deopura, Indian Institute oftechnology Delhi, India, A. Chatterjee, Dr B R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, India and N. V. Padaki, CSTRI Central Silk Board, India 5.1 Introduction Process control in polymerisation and fibre spinning Post-spinning process control: drawing and heat setting Key control points in synthetic fibre manufacture Future trends References 131

4 Contents vii 6 Process control in blowroom and carding operations 132 R. Alagirusamy, Indian Institute oftechnology Delhi, India 6.1 Introduction to blowroom operations General process control in the blowroom Process control in blowroom processes Process control in carding: control of process parameters Process control in carding: control of card clothing, wire maintenance and card waste Yarn count issues and other common process control problems for blowroom and carding operations Bibliography Process control in drawing, combing and speed frame operations 158 A. Ghosh, Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Berhampore, India, and A. Majumdar, Indian Institute oftechnology Delhi, India 7.1 Introduction Process control in drawing: key elements The impact of drawing on yarn quality Process control in drawing: common problems Process control in combing: key elements Process control in combing: the impact of combing on yarn quality and common problems arising from the process Process control in speed frame operations: key elements Process control in speed frame operations: the impact of speed frame operations on yarn quality and common defects related to the process Conclusions and future trends Acknowledgement References Process control in ring and rotor spinning 191 P. K. Majumdar, Government College of Engineering & Textile Technology, Serampore, India 8.1 Introduction Factors affecting spinning tension in ring spinning Control of end breakage rate in ring spinning 202

5 viii Contents 8.4 Factors affecting end breakage rates in ring spinning Control of fly generation and twist variations in ring spinning Process control in rotor spinning Control of end breakage rate and twist loss in rotor spinning Future trends References Maintenance of yarn spinning machines 225 A. Basu, Central Silk Board, India 9.1 Introduction Maintenance of spinning preparatory machines Maintenance of ring and rotor spinning machines Future trends Sources for further information and advice References 240 Part III Process control in fabric manufacture, coloration and finishing Process control in knitting 243 S. C. Ray, University of Calcutta, India 10.1 Introduction Key control points in knitting Quality control of knitted fabrics Control of knitted loop length Common faults in knitted fabrics Other process control factors in knitting Future trends: online quality control References Process control in weaving 265 V. K. Kothari, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 11.1 Introduction Controlling loom productivity, efficiency and fabric quality Online process control, quality control and monitoring in weaving Cost control in weaving References 278

6 Contents ix 12 Process control in nonwovens production 279 D. Moyo, A. Patanaik and R. D.Anandjiwala, CSIR Materials Science and Manufacturing, South Africa, and Department of Textile Science, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University, South Africa 12.1 Introduction Needle punching: process variables and process control Hydroentanglement: process variables and process control Melt blowing: process variables and process control Spunbonding: process variables and process control Future trends Sources of further information Acknowledgement References Process control in dyeing of textiles 300 S. M. Shang, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, China 13.1 Introduction Dyeing of cotton Dyeing of synthetic materials Dyeing of blends Process control in batchwise dyeing machines Process control in continuous dyeing machines References Process control in printing of textiles 339 S. M. Shang,The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, China 14.1 Introduction Direct printing Discharge, resist and heat transfer printing Process control in roller and screen printing machines Inkjet printing and its process control Product safety and low-carbon production Sources of further information References Process control in finishing of textiles 363 A. K. Roy Choudhury, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Serampore, India 15.1 Introduction Instrumental process control 365

7 x Contents 15.3 Textile finishing processes and process control in finishing Process control in basic finishing machines Process control in stenter machines Calendering process Surface raising and pre-shrinking finishes Finishing with alkali Softeners Resin finishes Protection from fire damage and water penetration Anti-pilling finish Other types of finishing: antistatic, soil release, antimicrobial and UV protection Wool treatment and enzyme finishes Low-liquor finishing Plasma treatments Future trends References Process control in apparel manufacturing 428 G.Thilagavathi and S.Vuu, PSG College of Technology, India 16.1 Introduction Process control in spreading, pattern making and cutting Process control in sewing Causes of damage to the fabric during sewing Control of fusing and pressing operations, storage and packaging Quality evaluation of apparel: testing for tailorability Quality evaluation of apparel: testing for sewability Quality evaluation of accessories References 471 Index 475

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