Textile Technology. An Introduction. Thomas Gries. 2nd Edition HANSER. Dieter Veit Burkhard Wulfhorst. Philipp Schuster, Klaus-Peter Weber

Transcription

1 Thomas Gries Dieter Veit Burkhard Wulfhorst Textile Technology An Introduction 2nd Edition With Contributions by Yves-Simon Gloy, Adolf Graber, Achim Hehl, Melanie Hbrr, Christopher Lenz, Volker Niebel, Nicole Saeger, Andreas Schnabel, Viktoria Schrank, Philipp Schuster, Klaus-Peter Weber HANSER Hanser Publishers, Munich Hanser Publications, Cincinnati

2 Preface to the Second Edition XVII Preface to the First Edition XVII Preface to the First German Edition XVIII 1 Introduction Why Are There Fibers and Yarns? Tenacity and Elongation Surface and Porosity Mechanics of Solid Bodies and Textile Structures Evolution of Textile Technology Production Stages Typical Products Made from Natural and Man-Made Fibers Yarns Textiles Textile Products Multiscale Model Importance of the Textile Industry World Trade with Textiles 25 2 Raw Materials Natural Fibers Plant Fibers Cotton (CO) Flax (Linen) (LI) Other Bast and Hard Fibers 42

3 VI Contents Animal Fibers Wool (Sheep's Wool; WO) and Fine Animal Hair Silk (Mulberry Silk; SE) Mineral Fibers Chemical Fibers Manufacturing Processes Chemical Fibers from Natural Polymers Viscose Fibers (CV) Lyocell Fibers (CLY) Cupro Fibers (CUP) Acetate Fibers (CA) Chemical Fibers from Synthetic Polymers Mechanisms for the Generation of Macromolecules Chemical Fibers from Inorganic Raw Materials Glass Fibers (GF) Carbon Fibers (CF) Metal Fibers (MTF) Further Processing Drawing Texturing Production of Staple Fibers Examples Jeans Carpet Airbags 89 3 Principles and Machinery for Yarn Production Cotton Spinning Spinning Preparation Machines Bale Opening Opening and Cleaning Mixing Carding Draw Frames Homogenization of the Sliver Combing Room Purpose of Combing Combing Machine Ring Spinning Process Flyer Spinning Ring Spinning Compact Spinning 112

4 VII Nonconventional Spinning Principles OE-Rotor Spinning Air-Jet Spinning Air False-Twist Wrap-Spinning Summary of Other Nonconventional Spinning Methods Comparison of the Most Important Nonconventional Spinning Methods Special Spinning Methods Carded Woolen Spinning Carding Nonconventional Carded Woolen Spinning Worsted Spinning Intersecting Gill Box and Chain Gill Box Mock-Worsted Spinning Development Trends Machines for Spinning Preparation Production of Staple Fiber Yarns with Defined Properties Production Increase of Ring Spinning Frames Ring/Traveler Combination Sliver Spinning Compact and Condension Spinning Process Control Engineering Fineness Measurements of Fibers and Yarns Length Numbering Mass/Weight Numbering Summary of the Measurement Systems Spinning Preparation Combing Room Ring Spinning Rotor Spinning Examples leans Carpet Airbag Principles and Machinery for Production of Woven Fabrics Production Principles Weaving Preparation Winding Twisting Preparation of the Warp Beam 147

5 VIII Contents Warping Section Warping Sizing Construction of Woven Fabrics Definitions of Woven Fabrics Repeating Pattern Floatation Weave Diagram Weave Symbol Basic Weave Patterns Plain Weave Twill Weave Atlas or Satin Weave Special Weaving Techniques Cord and Velveteen Terry Woven Two-Ply Fabric Design and Principle of Weaving Looms Warp Let-Off Systems Machines with Eccentric Drive Machines with Shaft Drive Jacquard Looms Shuttle Loom Projectile Loom Rapier Loom Jet Loom Multiphase Loom Weft Insertion Speed Open-Reed Weaving Development Trends Examples Jeans Carpet Airbag Processes and Machines for Knitwear Production Knitting Design and Structure Loop Formation Jacquard Technique 179

6 IX Knitting Machines Flat-Bed Knitting Machines Circular Knitting Machines Spacer Knitting Machines Warp Knitting Design and Structure Warp-Knitting Machines Coulier Warp-Knitting Machines Warp-Knitting Machines Warp-Knitted Spacer Fabrics Development Trends Examples Carpets Processes and Machines for Nonwovens Production Basics Market Raw Materials Processes and Machines Processes of Web Formation Mechanical Web Formation Processes Aerodynamic Web Formation Processes Hydrodynamic Web Formation Processes Spun-Bonded Nonwovens Melt-Blown Process Reifenhauser Process Market Overview Processes of Web Consolidation Web Bonding by Friction Force Needle Punching Hydroentangling Thermal Bonding Chemical Bonding Stitch Bonding Market Overview Drying Finishing Processes for the Improvement of Textile Drapeability Processes for Leather Finishing Heat-Sealing Coating Applications 217

7 7 Braiding Processes and Machines Classification of Braids Pattern Braiding Processes Conventional Braiding Processes Strand-Forming Braiding Machine Lace Braiding Machine Package Braiding Machine Processes for the Production of 3-D Braids Circular Braiding (Multilayer-Interlock Braiding or Through-the-Thickness Braiding) and Overbraiding Magnaweave/Omniweave or Four-Step Braiding 228 Processes Two-Step Braiding Process Further Developments of the Known Processes D Rotary Braiding D and 3-D Braids Development Trends Noncrimp Fabrics From Warp-Knit to Multiaxial Fabric Biaxial Noncrimp Fabrics Structure Principle Stitch Types Multiaxial Noncrimp Fabrics Structure Principle Spacer Noncrimp Fabrics Structure Principle Weft-Knitted NCF Structure Principle Development Trends 250

8 XI 9 Textile Finishing Pretreatment Dry Pretreatment Wet Pretreatment Fiber-Specific Processes Cotton Wool Silk Drying Coloration Dyeing Printing Appret Chemical Appret Mechanical Finishing Thermal Finishing Coating Embroidery Standard Embroidery (Sozni Stitch) Chain Stitch Embroidery (Ari Stitch) Tailored Fiber Placement (TFP) Development Trends Examples Jeans Carpets Airbags Processes and Machines for Clothing Manufacture Separation Pattern Design Directional Orientation Pattern Orientation Types of Patterns Processes for the Construction and Transfer of Patterns Cutting Marking Work Preparation Joining Processes Sewing 288

9 XII Contents Take-Up Lever Thread Tightener Transport Seam Classification Bonding and Setting Welding Forming Automation Development Trends Technical Textiles Definitions Examples of Technical Textiles Fiber-Reinforced Material (FRM) Fiber-Reinforced Plastics Conveyor Belts Tires Protective Textiles (Mobiltech, Protech) Mobility Textiles (Mobiltech) Airbags Armoring of Automobiles Protective Garments for Firefighters Textiles for Civil Engineering (Buildtech) Textile-Reinforced Concrete Coated Textiles Ecological Laboratory House of TU Dresden Geotextiles (Geotech) Medical Textiles (Medtech) Hygiene Textiles Medical Textiles Extracorporeal Medical Textiles Implants (Intracorporeal Textiles) Development Trends Textile Testing Standards Testing Chamber Climate Determination of Testing Climate Fiber Testing Fineness (Linear Density) 346

10 XIII Importance Characteristic Values Measuring Principles Fiber Length Staple Diagram Measuring Methods Yarn Testing Fineness Twist Spun fiber Yarns Filament Yarns Ply-Yarns Mechanical Properties Measurement Evenness Measuring Principle Diagram CV Value Normal Spectrogram Textiles Geometry and Design Thickness Length and Width Tenacity (Stress) and Elongation (Strain) Behavior against Water Water Absorption Water-Retention Capability Water Repellency Ready-Made Textiles Surface Changes Abrasion Resistance Pilling Behavior against Humidity and Water Change of Geometric Dimensions Colorfastness Definitions Gray Scale Blue Scale (DIN EN ISO 105-B01 and -B02) Fall and Drapeability Measuring Methods 367

11 XIV Contents 12.7 Physiology of Clothing Heat Balance of the Human Body Hohenstein Skin Model Thermoregulation Model Technical Textiles Fibers Yarns Textiles Composites Development Trends Disposal and Recycling of Textiles Circulation of Material in the Textile Industry Life Cycle of a Product Economic Cycle and Waste Law Material Recycling Fiber Retrieval Clothing Carpets Automotive Textiles Seat Covers Safety Belts Processing and Treatment of Reprocessed Fibers Preparation Processing Thermal Material Recycling Depolymerization Thermal Recycling Environmental Issues in Textile Production Development Trends Examples Jeans Carpets Airbags Simulation Simulation with and without Computer Cost Effectiveness and Validation 398

12 XV 14.3 Modeling Types of Modeling Expert Systems and Knowledge-Based Models Analytical Simulation of Machines and Processes Optimizing Machine Settings Optimizing Product Quality Simulating Yarn Production Simulating Fabric Production Simulating Finishing Techniques Practical Advice Numerical Simulation of Machines and Processes Neural Networks Biological Background Model Applications Practical Advice Genetic and Evolutionary Algorithms Basics Evolutionary Theory Genotype and Phenotype Mathematical Model Applications Fuzzy Logic Basics Mathematical Model Applications Practical Advice Simulation of Yarns and Textile Structures Yarns Textile Structures Industry 4.0: Control Systems and Cognitive Machines 428 About the Authors 433 Thomas Gries 433 Dieter Veit 433 Burkhard Wulfhorst 434 Coauthors 434 Acknowledgments 435 Index 439