Woven textiles. Principles, developments and. applications. The Textile Institute. Edited by K. L. Gandhi

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1 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 125 Woven textiles Principles, developments and applications Edited by K. L. Gandhi The Textile Institute WP WOODHEAD PUBLISHING Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi

2 Contents Contributor contact details Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii xi Part 1 Yarns and weaving technology 1 1 Types and properties of fibres and yarns used in weaving 3 P. K. Hari, Consultant, India 1.1 Introduction Types of natural and regenerated fibres Types of synthetic fibres Key fibre properties and how they are measured Comparing fibre properties New types of fibre Yarns and their properties Types of yarn for spinning Short staple spinning yarns Long staple spinning yarns Physical properties of woven fabrics Mechanical properties of woven fabrics Effects of fibre and yarn properties on the use and application 1.14 Effects of fibre and yarn properties on woven textiles: of woven fabrics 27 apparel and sports textiles Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 33 2 Yarn preparation for weaving: winding Introduction to yarn preparation 35 V

3 vi Contents 2.2 The winding process Types of winding machines Terminology commonly used in the winding process Cone types and build Manual, semi-automatic and fully automatic winding machines Hazards from knots during weaving and knitting processes Yarn splicing for knot-free yarns Applications of splicing techniques References 61 3 Yarn preparation for weaving: warping Introduction Direct warping Indirect/sectional warping Warping creels Tensioning units of creels Thread stop motion Single-end warping machines References 84 4 Yarn preparation for weaving: sizing Introduction Characteristics of a good sized yarn Size mixtures: composition and quality Effect of size on adhesion between fibres in the yarn structure Size paste preparation: cooking Sizing machines Yarn stretch during sizing Automation controls of sizing machines References The fundamentals of weaving technology Introduction Primary loom mechanisms Secondary loom mechanisms Auxiliary loom mechanisms Temples Shedding mechanisms 124

4 Contents vii 5.7 Different types of shed Classifications of plain and automatic shuttle looms Drop box looms Weft insertion on shuttle looms Weft insertion on shuttle-less looms Multiphase weaving References 160 Part II Woven structures Woven structures and their characteristics 163 J. Wilson, Consultant Designer, UK 6.1 Introduction Representing woven fabrics Weaving Colour and weave effects Sett Weaves Introduction of extra threads Double and treble cloths Repeating patterns Centring Drafting and lifting Denting Combining weaves Fabric types Future trends Sources of further information and advice Bibliography Computer aided design (CAD) systems for woven textile design 205 P. Sinha, University of Huddersfield, UK and University of Manchester, UK 7.1 Introduction Computer aided design (CAD) and the global textiles industry Key issues in the use of computer aided design (CAD) for woven textile design Necessary expertise and skills training for woven computer aided design (CAD) textile designers Costs incurred in using computer aided design (CAD) 213

5 viii Contents 7.6 Computer aided design (CAD) software applications The impact of computer aided design (CAD) on the supply chain New products and markets and future trends through the use of computer aided design (CAD) Sources of further information and advice References Modelling the structure of woven fabrics 229 B. K. Behera, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 8.1 Introduction: fundamentals of woven structure Fundamentals of design engineering Designing of textile products Design engineering using theoretical modelling Modelling methodologies: deterministic models Modelling methodologies: non-deterministic models Authentication and testing of models Reverse engineering Future trends in non-conventional methods of design engineering Conclusions References D woven structures and methods of manufacture 264 M. Amirul Islam, Bally Ribbon Mills, USA 9.1 Introduction: 3D woven structures, applications and advantages Weaves: basic and 3D Manufacturing technologies D weaving calculations Applications and future trends Acknowledgements References 312 Part III Applications of woven textiles Woven textiles for automotive interiors and other transportation applications 317 J. M. Hardcastle, Consultant, UK 10.1 Introduction Automotive applications of woven fabrics Woven fabrics in car interiors 322

6 Contents ix 10.4 Fabric constructions and finishing processes Other transport applications Future trends Acknowledgements Sources of further information and advice Reference Woven apparel fabrics 345 N. A. Redmore, University of Huddersfield, UK 11.1 Introduction Performance requirements of apparel fabric Types of woven apparel fabrics Practical design applications Application examples Sources of further information and advice Reference Woven fabrics for geotextiles 367 A. Rawal, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India 12.1 Introduction Production and classification of geotextiles Selection of fibres for woven geotextiles Production of woven geotextiles Specifications of woven geotextiles and their essential properties Applications of woven geotextiles Future trends Sources of further information and advice References Hollow woven fabrics 387 X. Chen, University of Manchester, UK 13.1 Introduction: overview and potential applications Principles of hollow woven fabrics Properties and performance of structures and materials based on hollow woven fabrics Modelling of hollow woven fabrics Possible applications of hollow fabrics and future trends Sources of further information and advice References 412

7 x Contents 14 Woven textiles for medical applications 414 S. Rajendran and S. C. Anand, University of Bolton, UK 14.1 Introduction Application of woven textiles in managing acute and chronic wounds Woven vascular prostheses and meshes Application of woven structures in hospitals Other medical applications of woven structures Conclusions References 439 Index 442 Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012

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