Product Testing Protocols: Apparel

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1 Product Testing Protocols: Apparel Issued September 6, 2016 Revised May 25, 2017

2 Sampling Requirements Fabric and Pre-Production Testing (Required by Bluestem) One pre-production garment made in the production fabric, trim, and hardware. Measurement specifications must be issued along with the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below. One yard or meter of production fabric in each additional colorway Fabric testing is to be completed before fabric is cut for production. VENDOR CANNOT GO INTO PRODUCTION UNTIL BOTH TESTING AND FIT SAMPLES HAVE BEEN APPROVED If additional samples are required for flammability testing, two yards of production fabric in each colorway should be submitted (these fabrics include raised fiber surfaces such as cotton flannel, corduroy, velvet, and velveteen). Other fabrications may also apply. Warehouse Testing (Monitored by Bluestem Brands only, not required for vendors) One sample in any color from the production goods. Measurement specifications must be issued along with the tech pack. The sample should be submitted in the sample size as listed below. Sample Sizes Draper s and Damon s, Norm Thompson Appleseeds and Wintersilks: Women s size 8 or Small Sahalie: Women s size 10 or Medium Haband, Bedford Fair, or Old Pueblo Traders: Women s size 12 or Medium Blair: Women s size 14 or Medium All Brands Men s Tops: Size 44 or L All Brands Men s Bottoms: Size 38 or L All Brands Men s Sportcoats: Size 44 or L All Brands Mens Dress shirts submit size 17 1/2 X 34 All Brands: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 1 of any color. All Brands Bras and Intimates: Submit size 36B for bras and size 7 for women s underwear. Men s underwear submit size 38. Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 2 of 9

3 Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications Care Labeling 16 CFR Part 423, ASTM D 3136, ASTM D 5489 Fiber Composition AATCC 20/20A Country of Origin Manufacturer's Identification 16 CFR Part 300, 16 CFR Part 303, 16 CFR Part CFR Part 300, 16 CFR Part 303 Test one color per fabrication (one solid & one heather) Required for Customs classification and FTC labeling. All Fabric Lots to be tested. LABELING Must comply with Care Labeling Regulation No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends Must include a permanent label identifying the country of origin as to FTC and /or CBP regulation Must include a label identifying the manufacturer's name, registered trademark or registered identification number, as applicable FLAMMABILITY Apparel Flammability 16 CFR Part 1610 Class 1 - Flammability rating or Exemption Disclosure Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR Part 1611 Must meet the criteria for acceptance FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION / WORKMANSHIP Fabric Defects ASTM D 3990 No major defects such as stains, holes, slub yarns, missed stitches, or other defects Evenness of Color Visual Evaluation Uniform and even color within a sample and between samples Seams should be neat, no open seams or needle damage. Hems should be Construction / Visual Evaluation straight and uniform in size. Threads should be properly trimmed. Product Workmanship should be free of defects that affect end use and appearance. Appearance after Laundering Crocking Washing and/or Commercial Dry Cleaning Chlorine Bleach Visual Evaluation AATCC 8, AATCC 116 Prints AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 All colors Use "Tide" detergent to wash. Three (3) washes for machine and (1) hand wash. One (1) wash for dry cleaning. Leather is to be "Professionally Dry Cleaned" General appearance must be satisfactory, no open seams / hems, broken stitches, holes, unraveled seams, excessive pilling, differential shrinkage or other changes that affect the appearance. COLORFASTNESS Fabrication Colors Dry Wet All Fiber Contents except below Denim, tie dye, dip dye, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces and pile fabrics **Plain surface fabric Denim Color Change All colors except pastels and white All Colors Dark colorways (deep green, dark navy, burgundy, maroon, purple, brown, black, red) Dark indigo denim (washed), black denim Hand Wash 1 Cycle, Machine Wash 3 Cycles except as noted Exceptions: Denims, sulfur dyes, tie dyes, dip dyes, pigment prints, raised fiber surfaces, pile fabrics, dark colorways (see** above) Swimwear: Dark, neon/ fluorescent colors Color Change Color Staining Self Staining AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0 Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 3 of 9

4 Tests: All Fibers / All Fabrications Non-Chlorine Bleach Light Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC TS-001 All colors Color Change 4.0 AATCC 16 Sea Water AATCC 106 Perspiration Outerwear: 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 COLORFASTNESS SWIMWEAR ONLY Swimwear: 20 AFU, Grade 3.5 Neon Swimwear: 10 AFU Grade 2.0 AATCC 162 Shade Change 4.0 AATCC 15 All colors except white Shade Change 4.0 Staining 3.0 Color Change 4.0 Staining 3.0 Woven Garments by Fabrication FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) Thread Count ASTM D 3775 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (minimum) (Excludes Hats, Gloves, and Scarves) Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Woven All Fibers and Fabrications except Denim and Pile Fabrics <2.5 oz/sqyd oz/sqyd oz/sqyd >7.3 oz/sqyd <2.5 oz/sqyd oz/sqyd oz/sqyd >7.3 oz/sqyd Weight Seam lbf < 4.3 oz/sq yd 20 min > 4.3 oz/sq yd 25 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" DENIM (all values are minimums) <8.0 oz/sqyd oz/sqyd oz/sqyd > 12.0 oz/sqyd <8.0 oz/sqyd oz/yd oz/yd > 12.0 oz/yd Weight Seam lbf <8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min > 8.0 oz/sqyd 30 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" DISTRESSED DENIM (all values are minimums) <8.0 oz/sqyd oz/sq yd oz/sq yd > 12.0 oz/sqyd Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 4 of 9

5 Woven Garments by Fabrication Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 <8.0 oz/sqyd oz/yd oz/yd > 12.0 oz/yd Weight Seam lbf Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/4" <8.0 oz/sqyd 20 min > 8.0 oz/sqyd 25 min WOVEN PILE FABRICS AND COTTON FLANNEL Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424 Seam Slippage ASTM D 1683 <2.5 oz/sqyd oz/sqyd oz/sqyd >7.3 oz/sqyd <2.5 oz/sqyd oz/sqyd oz/sqyd >7.3 oz/sqyd Weight Seam lbf <4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min > 4.3 oz/sqyd 15 min Must be production seam - opening must not exceed 1/8" Skewing AATCC % Maximum DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE Dimensional Stability (3 Laundering Dry Clean machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Length Width Length Width 100% Cotton, CVC -3% -3% -2% -2% Cotton/Spandex Blends -4% -4% -2% -2% AATCC 135/150/158, Man Made Cellulosic Fibers AATCC TS-006, -3% -3% -2% -2% Man Made Synthetic Fibers AATCC R-003-3% -3% -2% -2% Wool, Cashmere, Angora, or other animal hair blends -4% -4% -3% -3% AATCC 135/150/158, Dimensional Stability: Growth AATCC TS-006, +1% +1% +1% +1% AATCC R-003 Knit Garments by Fabrication FABRIC QUALITY / CONSTRUCTION Fabric Weight - Weft and Warp Knits ASTM D 3776 Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE (MINIMUM) As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) < 100 gr/m2 or <3.0 oz/sq yard = 35 psi - Weft Knits 100 gr/m2 or 3.0 oz/sq yard = 45 psi - Weft Knits 30psi - Warp Knits Skewing AATCC % Maximum Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 5 of 9

6 Knit Garments by Fabrication DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WEFT KNIT Fiber Content 100% Cotton, CVC or predominately Linen, Ramie, Hemp or Jute, Spandex Blends AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Jersey, Double Knit Pique, Interlock Rib Knits Length 7%, Width 7% Fancy Knits, Pointelle, Bird's Eye, Jaquard Thermal / Waffle Apparel Length 7%, Width 7% Fake Fur, Fleece, French Terry, Velour Acrylic, Aramid, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, CVS Wool, Cashmere, Angora, Silk, Rayon, Lyocell, CVL, CVRayon Length 7%, Width 7% Length 7%, Width 7% Dimensional Stability: Growth, Weft Knits AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - WARP KNIT Length 2%, Width 2% AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Plain Knits, Lace, Net, Mesh Dimensional Stability: Growth, Warp AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 Length 2%, Width 2% Length 2%, Width 2% Sweater Knits All Fiber Contents FABRIC QUALITY/CONSTRUCTION Fabric Weight (Lbs per Dozen) ASTM D 3776 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) Thread Count ASTM D3887 As specified in Product Specification or Purchase Order (+/- 5%) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY / APPEARANCE - All Fiber Contents (3 machine wash cycles, 1 hand wash, 1 dryclean) Dimensional Stability: AATCC 135/150, Length Width Laundering AATCC TS-006-5% -5% Dimensional Stability: Dry Cleaning Dimensional Stability: Growth AATCC 158, AATCC R-003 AATCC 135/150/158, AATCC TS-006, AATCC R-003 Length Width -3% -3% Length Width +2% +2% Skewing AATCC % Maximum Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 6 of 9

7 Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims Wrinkle Resistance / Durable Press Snag Resistance Abrasion Resistance Stretch and Recovery Zipper Strength AATCC 124 / 143 ASTM D3939 ASTM D4685 ASTM D2594 / D3107 ASTM D2061 All Colors Tested after 5 Launderings For corduroy fabric only Lab should quote the zipper size in the report for reference in Advertising. Test required for each fabric lot purchased? Criteria Wrinkle Resistance Wrinkle Free Fabric Smoothness Seam Smoothness Crease Resistant Fabrication Grade CVC 3.0 CVS 2.0 Face: 3.0; Back: 4.0 Button Attachment ASTM F seconds Min 30 psi. Snap & Fabric Strength Eyelet Pull Strength Composition Analysis Oxygen number Knit: 95% Min.; Woven: 85% Min. Pull Tab Strength (min.) Top Stop Strength (min.) Chain Crosswise Strength (min.) Bottom Stop Strength (min.) Size 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10 Brass/Nickel 20 / 25 / 30 / 40 / / 15 / 15 / 30 / / 75 / 120 / 150 / / 10 / 10 / 20 / 30 Aluminum 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / / 15 / 15 / 20 / / 50 / 75 / 80 / / 10 / 10 / 15 / 20 Plastic/Nylon 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / / 15 / 20 / 30 / / 50 / 75 / 80 / / 10 / 15 / 15 / 20 CEF 15 / 15 / 30 / 50 / / 10 / 20 / 40 / / 50 / 100 / 150 / / 8 / 15 / 40 / 60 ASTM D4846 Snap only Snap and unsnap action: 2-8 lbs.; Snap strength: 15 lbs. Min. ASTM D1683 Modified Fed. Std. 148a, Method 2 Fed. Std. 148a, Method 4 Eyelet only, Using Tensile Testing Machine, CRE Feather and down only Feather and down only Water Repellency AATCC 22 All colors Water Resistance - Rain test Light AATCC 35 AATCC 16 All colors. For Customs Duty Classification. All fabric lots tested. Test Original and after 5 Launderings. All Colors Required for Federal Fish and Wildlife Commission Required for Federal Fish and Wildlife Commission and FTC in Advertising in Advertising. Required by Customs if lower outerwear duty claimed. All Fabric Lots to be tested. Minimum 15 lbs. Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70 (ISO2) - When Water Repellency claimed in Advertising Condition Height of Water Time Water Absorption Rain Shower Storm 2 feet 2 minutes Not more than 1.0 gram Garment/Fabric Type Color Type Hour Grade Silk/swimwear Light/Med 10 hours 4.0 Dark 20 hours 4.0 Fluorescent 10 hours 2.0 Leather All Colors 10 hours 4.0 Suede All Colors 20 hours 3.0 All Other Garments All Colors 20 hours 4.0 Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 7 of 9

8 Additional Tests for Products with Special Claims Color Change 4.0 All colors, except AATCC 107 Color Staining 3.0 Water pastels and white Self-Staining 4.5 Chlorinated Pool Water Sea Water AATCC 162 AATCC 106 All colors, except pastels and white All colors, except pastels and white Color Change 4.0 Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0 Color Change 4.0 Color Change-Fluorescent 3.0 Color Staining 3.0 Self-Staining 4.5 Soil Release AATCC 130 All Colors 4.0 Minimum after 5 home launderings Oil Repellency AATCC 118 For stain repellent Lots to be Tested. Original 5.0; After 5 home launderings 4.0 ph Value AATCC 81 White colors & denim ph Formaldehyde AATCC 112 All colors Max. 75 ppm Lead Content Wicking EPA 3050B/3051 AATCC 197 ASTM D5802 All colors All colors Anti-bacterial AATCC 147 All colors Air Permeability ASTM D737 All colors Moisture management AATCC 195 All colors Required by CPSC, All Fabric Lots to be Tested. Lots to be Tested. Lots to be Tested. Lots to be Tested. Lots to be Tested. For PU, PVC or likewise coated fabrics. Vertical Wicking Horizontal Wicking Original Original Liquid Moisture Management Meet Federal requirements according to the end use of the fabrics. Knit: 8cm after 30 min, Woven: 5cm after 30 min Horizontal wicking - water absorption rate: Knit: minimum 0.035g/second Woven: minimum 0.02 g/second No Growth Knit: 160 cfm Woven: 20 cfm 1. Fabric classification: Moisture Management 2. One way transport capability: Grade Overall moisture management capability (OMMC): Grade 3.5 Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 8 of 9

9 Summary of Revisions DATE: September 20, 2016 October 7, 2016 March 30, 2017 DESCRIPTION OF REVISION: Added to Sampling Requirements: Hats, gloves, & scarves submit 2 of each color. Added to Sampling Requirements: Haband requirements Change to protocol to include fabric testing and pre-production testing requirements Issued: March 30, 2017 Page 9 of 9

Intertek Testing Fee Structure for Vince

Intertek Testing Fee Structure for Vince Knit Garment and Fabric Testing Item Fabric Garment Additional colorway Dimensional Stability: Laundering or Dry Cleaning Appearance after Laundering or Dry Cleaning Skewing Colorfastness to: Laundering