Annexure A Technical Specifications

Transcription

1 Annexure A Technical Specifications SL.NO. CONTENTS 1. SCOPE 2. RELATED SPECIFICATION &DOCUMENT 3. WORKMANSHIP AND FINISH D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 1

2 1. SCOPE This specification covers the requirements of and other uniform accessories for the GUVNL. 2. RELATED SPECIFICATION / REFERENCES 2.1 Reference is made in this specification to:- SI NO. SPECIFICATION PARTICULARS 1 IS: Method for determination of colorfastness to washing. 2 IS: Method for determination of threads per unit length in woven s. 3 IS: Method for determination of mas per sq. meter and mass per linear meter of. 4 IS: Method for determination of relaxation shrinkage in woven. 3. WORKMANSHIP AND FINISH 3.1 The finished cloth shall be free from sizing filling and dressing materials and substances liable to cause subsequent tendering. 3.2 The cloth shall be free from spinning, weaving, pilling and processing defects like slubs, neps, reed mark, patchiness and fuzzy appearance. 3.3 The cloth shall be Heat Set & fully shrunk. D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 2

3 Specification for Sari Fabric Description : Summary of Test Parameter Required in the Sari Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count Den Filament polyester yarn 80/36 denier /twist 1800/S 80/36 denier /twist 1800/Z Filament polyester yarn 80/36 denier /twist 1800/S b) weft AATCC-20 / 20A 80/36 denier /twist 1800/Z 2 Blend Composition a) IS 3416:1988 % 100%, Chiffon 3 Weave Visual --- Plain Chiffon 4 Threads/dm ASTM D / % 300 Mass g/m 2 ASTM +/ D % 6 Width cm Usable (Ex- IS cm % - 2.5% Selvedge) Length-cm cm % - 2.5% 7 Breaking Load on 5.0 x IS Newton 20 cm strip, Min Crease recovery angle, IS Degree 210 deg. Min Min. Initially 9 Pilling resistance IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better (after revolutions) 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree 16 sec % 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA to Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 RA 2005 % 14 Colour Fastness to IS 2454 Grade 5 or better D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 3

4 Light 15 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better washing (Test 3) (after 4 washing) 16 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) 17 Colour Fastness to Rubbing IS Grade 4 or better 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec Grade 4 or better 20 Design Printed as per attachment D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 4

5 Specification for Blouse Fabric Test Specification for Blouse Fabric Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count IS 3442 Count b) weft 2/120 2/120 2 Blend Composition a) b) IS 3416:1988 % Remaining 3 Weave Visual --- Plain 4 Threads/dm ASTM D / % Mass g/m 2 ASTM +/- D % 80 6 Width cm Usable IS cm % - 2.5% (Excluding- Selvedge) Length-cm cm % 7 Breaking Load on 5.0 x 20 IS Newton cm strip, Min Crease recovery angle, Min. Initially 9 Pilling resistance (after revolutions) 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS Degree 210 deg. Min IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree % 16 sec 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA to Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 % RA Colour Fastness to Light IS 2454 Grade 5 or better 15 Colour Fastness to washing IS Grade 4 or better (Test 3) (after 4 washing) Staining on adjacent D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 5

6 16 Colour Fastness to perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) IS Grade 4 or better 17 Colour Fastness to Rubbing IS Grade 4 or better 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 Grade 4 or better (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec 20 Design As attached D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 6

7 KURTA REPEAT SALWAR (COLOR WAYS) BLOUSE (COLOR WAYS) 13 cm COMPANY-1 DARK GREEN COMPANY-1 DARK GREEN 3 c m C=93 M=46 Y=96 K=15 R=3 G=82 B=42 L=30 A= -31 B=17 C=93 M=46 Y=96 K=15 R=3 G=82 B=42 L=30 A= -31 B=17 SCALE- 1:5.5(VERTICAL & HORIZONTAL) COMPANY-2 OCHRE YELLOW C=2 M=37 Y=95 K=0 R=236 G=159 B=40 L=76 A=20 B=80 COMPANY-2 OCHRE YELLOW C=2 M=37 Y=95 K=0 R=236 G=159 B=40 L=76 A=20 B=80 GREY-1 BLACK C=0 M=0 Y=0 K=10 R=222 G=222 B=221 L=88 A=0 B=0 C=0 M=0 Y=0 K=100 R=31 G=26 B=23 L=10 A=2 B=3 COMPANY-3 DARK ROSE RED C=25 M=95 Y=44 K=20 R=140 G=44 B=80 L=34 A=43 B=2 COMPANY-3 DARK ROSE RED C=25 M=95 Y=44 K=20 R=140 G=44 B=80 L=34 A=43 B=2 NOTE- COLOR WAYS FOR ALL COMPANY. NOTE;- FINAL COLOR WILL BE MATCHED WITH PANTONE SHADE CARD WITH THE CONSULTATION OF NIFT DESIGN TEAM. COMPANY-4 COMPANY-5 RUST RED C=59 M=96 Y=95 K=19 R=96 G=39 B=42 L=11 A=29 B=13 COMPANY-4 COMPANY-5 RUST RED C=59 M=96 Y=95 K=19 R=96 G=39 B=42 L=11 A=29 B=13 DARK GREEN C=93 M=64 Y=69 K=32 R=26 G=62 B=64 L=18 A= -16 B= -5 DARK GREEN C=93 M=64 Y=69 K=32 R=26 G=62 B=64 L=18 A= -16 B= -5 COMPANY-6 DARK NAVY BLUE C=40 M=40 Y=0 K=60 R=77 G=72 B=91 L=32 A= 5 B= -11 COMPANY-6 DARK NAVY BLUE C=40 M=40 Y=0 K=60 R=77 G=72 B=91 L=32 A= 5 B= -11 COMPANY-7 COMPANY-7 DARK RED C=28 M=89 Y=80 K=0 R=163 G=63 B=62 L=39 A= 41 B= 23 DARK RED C=28 M=89 Y=80 K=0 R=163 G=63 B=62 L=39 A= 41 B= 23 Company wise colour allotment: Company-1 Company-2 Company-3 Company-4 Company-5 Company-6 Company-7 DGVCL UGVCL GSECL GUVNL PGVCL MGVCL GETCO D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 7

8 Specification for Dupatta Fabric Description : Summary of Test Parameter Required in Dupatta Fabric Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count b) weft IS 3442 Count 2 Blend Composition IS 3416:1988 % a) Weave Visual --- Plain 4 Threads/dm ASTM D % Mass g/m 2 ASTM +/- 80 D Width cm Usable (Ex- Selvedge) 2.0% IS cm % - 2.5% 70.0 / Multifilament/crimped or texturize 80.0/Multifilament/crimped or texturize Length-cm cm % - 2.5% 7 Breaking Load on 5.0 x 20 cm strip, Min. IS Newton Crease recovery angle, Min. Initially IS Degree 210 deg. Min 9 Pilling resistance (after revolutions) IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree 16 sec 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 RA Colour Fastness to IS 2454 Light 15 Colour Fastness to IS washing (Test 3) (after 4 washing) % to 8.5 % Grade 5 or better Grade 4 or better D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 8

9 16 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) 17 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better Rubbing 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec Grade 4 or better Dupatta design *colour combinations: as per sari combinations D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc Page 9

10 Specification for Salwar Fabric Description : Summary of Test Parameter Required in Salwar Fabric Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count IS 3442 Count / Multifilament/crimped or texturize b) weft 140.0/Multifilament/crimped or texturize 2 Blend Composition IS 3416:1988 % a) Weave Visual --- Plain 4 Threads/dm ASTM D % Mass g/m 2 ASTM + 2.0% Width cm Usable (Ex- Selvedge) D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc D 3776 IS cm % - 2.5% Length-cm cm Breaking Load on 5.0 x 20 cm strip, Min. IS Newton Crease recovery angle, IS Degree 210 deg. Min Min. Initially 9 Pilling resistance (after IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better revolutions) 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree 16 sec 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 RA Colour Fastness to IS 2454 Light 15 Colour Fastness to IS washing (Test 3) (after 4 washing) % to 8.5 % Grade 5 or better Grade 4 or better

11 16 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) 17 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better Rubbing 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 Grade 4 or better (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec 20 Design As attached D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc

12 Specification for Kurti Fabric Description : Summary of Test Parameter Required in Kurti Fabric Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count IS 3442 Count / Multifilament/crimped or texturize b) weft 140.0/Multifilament/crimped or texturize 2 Blend Composition IS 3416:1988 % a) Weave Visual --- Plain 4 Threads/dm ASTM D % Mass g/m 2 ASTM + 2.0% Width cm Usable (Ex- Selvedge) D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc D 3776 IS cm % - 2.5% Length-cm cm % - 2.5% 7 Breaking Load on 5.0 x 20 cm strip, Min. IS Newton Crease recovery angle, IS Degree 210 deg. Min Min. Initially 9 Pilling resistance (after IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better revolutions) 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree 16 sec 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 RA Colour Fastness to IS 2454 Light 15 Colour Fastness to IS washing (Test 3) (after 4 washing) % to 8.5 % Grade 5 or better Grade 4 or better

13 16 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) 17 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better Rubbing 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 Grade 4 or better (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec 20 Design As attached D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc

14 Specification for Shirt Fabric Description : Summary of Test Parameter Required in Shirt Fabric Sr. No. Test Parameters Test Method Units Clint Requirement 1 Approximate count IS 3442 Count / Multifilament/crimped or texturize b) weft 140.0/Multifilament/crimped or texturize 2 Blend Composition IS 3416:1988 % a) Weave Visual --- Plain 4 Threads/dm ASTM D % Mass g/m 2 ASTM + 2.0% Width cm Usable (Ex- Selvedge) D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc D 3776 IS cm % - 2.5% Length-cm cm % - 2.5% 7 Breaking Load on 5.0 x 20 cm strip, Min. IS Newton Crease recovery angle, IS Degree 210 deg. Min Min. Initially 9 Pilling resistance (after IS 10971:84 Grade 4 or better revolutions) 10 Relaxation Shrinkage, IS % 11 Heat Shrinkage, Max. 160 degree 16 sec 12 ph value of the aqueous extract IS 1390:83RA Water soluble matter IS 3456:1966 RA Colour Fastness to IS 2454 Light 15 Colour Fastness to IS washing (Test 3) (after 4 washing) % to 8.5 % Grade 5 or better Grade 4 or better

15 16 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better perspiration (Acidic& Alkaline) 17 Colour Fastness to IS Grade 4 or better Rubbing 18 Sublimation Fastness IS 975:1988 Grade 4 or better 19 Hot Pressing IS 689:1988 (180 0 C temp. and time: 30 Sec Grade 4 or better D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc

16 Specification for Trouser Fabric SL. No. Parameters Requirement Test Method 1 Blend Composition IS:11195: ± 3% Viscose Remainder 2 Weave Plain 3 Yarn Count Warp 30/2 Ne Weft 30/2 Ne 4 Threads/dm IS: Ends 260 (+5%,-2.5%) Picks 190 (+5%,-2.5%) 5 Mass/sq. m 190 (+5%,-2.5%) IS: Fabric Width (cms) 150 cms. IS: Fabric length (cms.) 120 cms. 7 Breaking Load (5cmx20cm Strip) IS: Warp 880 N (min) Weft 640 N (min) 8 Shrinkage Heated Warp 2.0 %(max) Weft 2.0 %(max) 9 Relaxation Shrinkage IS:2977:1989 Warp 1.0 %(max) Weft 1.0 %(max) 10 ph value of aqueous extract IS:1390: Crease Recovery Angle 260 deg min IS:4681: Pilling (18000 rev.) 4 or Better IS: Colour Fastness to a) Light 5 or Better IS2454:1985 b) Rubbing 4 or Better IS: c) Rubbing 4 or Better IS: d) Washing after 4 washes IS: Shade Change 4 or Better Staining 4 or Better e) Perspiration IS:971:1983 Shade Change 4 or Better Staining f) Sublimation Fastness 4 or Better IS:975:1988 g) Hot Pressing (180C for 30 sec) IS:689: or Better Staining 4 or Better h) Hot Pressing IS:689: or Better Staining 4 or Better 14 Water Soluble 1.0 %(max) IS: Delta E < 1 CIE D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc

17 Other Requirements 1 The selvedge should be firm and straight. 2 The shall be well singed 3 The shall be heat Set and fully shrunk 4 The number of major defects shall not exceed 10 per 100 meters length. Each roll should be marked with information such as name of 5 material, composition, length, width, name of manufacturer List of Fabric Defects Annexure- F-1 Nature Yarn Defects Weaving Defects Processing Defects Visual Defect Defects Broken Filaments, Color flecks, Slubs, Knots Broken Ends, Broken Ends Woven in a Bunch, Broken Pattern, Double End, Float, Gout, Hole-Cut or Tear, Lashing-in, Local Distortion, Missing Ends, Oil or other Stain, Oily or Soiled Ends, Oily Weft, Reed Marks, Selvedge Defect, Slough Off, Smash, Snarls, Stitches, Untrimmed Loose threads, Weft Bar, Weft Crack. Bleaching spot, Blurred or Dark Patch, Defects caused by Hanging Thread, Dye Bar, Dyestuff Stain Misprint/Absence of Print, Patchy or Streaky or Uneven Dyeing, Pilling, Shading or Listing, Uneven Printing or Tinting, Water Mark, White Spot. Any visual defect that may affect, salability, serviceability, appearance of the in a way that is significantly unacceptable for sale. D:\Documents and Settings\SPShah333\Desktop\60188\60188 Annexure A.doc