Unicorn Hat Free Pattern

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1 Unicorn Hat Free Pattern Materials: Yarn: yards main color, scraps for features Crochet hook: H Miscellaneous: yarn needle Notes: Please look through this entire pattern before beginning. Sizes are for Infant through Adult. Gauge: 2 square, 5 rows x 6 stitches Crochet Abbreviations: Sc = single crochet Hdc = half double crochet Dc = double crochet Tblc = Treble Crochet Ch = chain Sl st = slip stitch St = stitch Picot = ch 3, sl st into first ch made. Directions: The hat base: Step 1: This hat is worked in a continuous round, do not sl st to join. I highly recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place. After 40 sts the increases are slowed from 8 additional sts in each row to 5 additional sts in each row. From 40 sts on I will write at the end of the row what size hat it will make, when you have reached the desired size skip the remaining rows and go on to step 2. Using main color: Row 1: 8 hdc in a magic loop or your preferred method of starting work in a round Row 2: 2 hdc in each stitch around (16 sts total) Row 3: *2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next, repeat from * around (24 sts total)

2 Row 4: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (32 sts) Row 5: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (40 sts) Premie Row 6: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (45 sts) 0-3 Months Row 7: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (50 sts) 3-6 Months Row 8: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (55 sts) 6-12 Months Row 9: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 10 sts, repeat from * around (60 sts) 1-3 Years old Row 10: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 11 sts, repeat from * around (65 sts) 3-5 Years old Row 11: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 12 sts, repeat from * around (70 sts) 5-10 Years old Row 12: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 13 sts, repeat from * around (75 sts) Pre-teen / Teen / Adult Female Row 13: *2hdc in first st, 1 hdc in each of the next 14 sts, repeat from * around (80 sts) Adult Male Step 2: Work 1 hdc in each st around in a continuous round until your hat is ½ an inch shorter than desired length (See chart below for hat lengths) then place 1 sc, and sl st once, ch 1 and begin first ear flap. *Please note that people vary and I recommend measuring whenever possible, when measuring you will want you hat to be about 1 less in circumference so the hat will be snug on the head. I did do a lot of research visiting numerous sites and looking at multiple charts to make my own chart. This is a rough outline of what the majority of people these ages will need for hats. Again, I recommend measuring whenever possible.* Premie: 0-3 month old: 3-6 month old: 6-12 month old: 1-3 years old: 3-5 years old: 5-10 years old: Preteen-Teen: Adult Female: Adult Male: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: Circum: 21 Circum: Height: 5 Height: Height: Height: Height: Height: 7.5 Height: 8 Height: 8.5 Height: Height: 9-10 Earflap: (Optional) Directions are written for infant hat with toddler, child, and teen/adult directions in parentheses. Row 1: hdc in same st and next 7 (9, 11, 13)sts [8, (10, 12, 14) sts total] Row 2: hdc in each st across. 8, (10, 12, 14) Row 3: hdc decrease on each side. (6, 8, 10, 12) Row 4: hdc decrease on each side (4, 6, 8, 10) Infants size hats stop decreasing here, finish off and weave in ends. Make second ear flap, then move on to accent color directions. Row 5: hdc decrease on each side (4, 6, 8) Toddler size hats stop decreasing here, finish off and weave in ends. Make second ear flap, then move on to accent color directions. Row 6: hdc decrease on each side (4, 6) Children s size hats stop decreasing here, finish off and weave

3 in ends. Make second ear flap, then move on to accent color directions. Row 7: hdc decrease on each side (4) Teen/Adult size hats stop decreasing here, finish off and weave in ends. Make second ear flap, then move on to accent color directions. For second earflap: Attach yarn to bottom of hat and ch 1. There is not set rule of the best way to position earflaps, some people like them directly across from each other some people like them set to the back a small amount, do what seems best to you. Accent Color Band: Attach yarn to bottom of hat and ch 1, hdc in each st around hat and earflaps, decrease in the corners where the earflap meets the base hat, increase in each outter corner of the ear flap. Eyes: Pupils: Ch 5 Sl st in first ch from hook, hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 5 dc in last ch working around to work back up the other side, hdc in each of the next 2 spaces, sl st into the end. Iris': First piecestarting at point of pupil with point facing down, attach iris color in the second st up on the right side; sc and hdc in next st, 2hdc, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc and hdc in next st, sc and sl st. For second iris/pupil piece start with point of pupil down again, attach yarn at fourth st up on the right side; sc in same st, hdc and dc in next st, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2hdc, hdc and sc, sl st into next st. Whites around eyesfor first iris piece eye, start with point down again, attach white yarn in 3rd iris colored st up on the right side, sc and hdc in next st, 2 hdc, 2 dc, dc and trbc, 3 trbc, trbc and dc, hdc and sc, sl st For second iris piece, start with point down, attach white yarn in 3rd iris color st up on right side, sc and hdc in next st, dc and trbc, 3 trbc, trbc and dc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, hdc and sc, sl st. Black outlining of eyesfor first iris piece, with pupil pointing down, attach yarn in the only black st on the right side, sl st in next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sl st in next two sts. For second iris piece, with pupil pointing down, attach yarn in fourth white st up on right side, sl st, sl st, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 7 sts, sl st in next 2 sts. Small white highlight5sc in a round, sl st to join and finish off leaving a long enough tail to attach to eyes. Note: I always find it's easier to attach the highlights after I attach the main eye piece to the hat, the

4 smallest change in the angles can really throw your highlights off. Once eyes are attached you can stitch on some eye lashes for a little extra frill! :-) Snout: Ch 5 using main color of hat Row 1: 2 hdc in second ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 5 hdc in the last ch working around so you can work down the opposite side, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 chs, 3 hdc in the last ch, sl st to join and ch 1 Row 2: 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st to join, ch 1 Row 3: hdc in each st around, sl st to join and finish off leaving a long enough tail to attach to hat. Stuff slightly before attaching to hat Nostrils: make 2 using accent color of your choice 5 hdc in a round, picot, sl st to join and finish off leaving a tail long enough to attach to snout. Ears: make 2 using main color of hat Ch 4 Row 1: 2 hdc in second ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 5 hdc in the last ch working around so you can work down the opposite side, 1 hdc in next ch, 3 hdc in the last ch, sl st to join and ch 1 Row 2: 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, dc picot dc in the next st, 2 hdc, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st to join and finish off leaving a long enough tail to attach to hat. Accent color inside ear: make 2 in color of your choice Ch 4, 2 hdc in second ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 5 hdc in the last ch working around so you can work down the opposite side, 1 hdc in next ch, 3 hdc in the last ch, sl st to join and finish off leaving a long enough tail to attach to main part of ears. Horn Row 1: Hdc 6 in magic loop Working in back loops only for remainder of piece: Row 2: *2 hdc, hdc, hdc, repeat from * once (8) Row 3: hdc in each st around (8) Row 4: * 2hdc, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * once (10) Row 5: hdc in each st around (10) Row 6: * 2hdc, hdc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * once (12) Row 7: hdc in each st around (12) Infant size stop increasing here, sc sl and finish off leaving long enough tail to attach to hat. Row 8: * 2hdc, hdc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * once (14) Row 9: hdc in each st around (14) Toddler size stop increasing here, sc sl and finish off leaving long

5 enough tail to attach to hat. Row 10: * 2hdc, hdc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * once (16) Row 11: hdc in each st around (16) Children's size stop increasing here, sc sl and finish off leaving long enough tail to attach to hat. Row 12: * 2hdc, hdc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * once (18) Row 13: hdc in each st around (18) Row 14: sc, sl st and finish off leaving long enough tail to attach to hat. Attach all facial features to main body of hat. Mane: There are a couple of different ways to style your mane. You just cut lengths of yarn, remember you will be folding this yarn in half so 18 long pieces become 9 inches long when attached to hat (keep babies hats manes short because you don't want the baby to get the yarn in it's mouth.) The yarn can be left alone for a simple look, or you can pull apart the strands after you cut them to the correct length for a curly look. You can also use fancy fur yarns for even more dressy hats. Find the middle of the back of your hat. To do this lay it face down with the ear flaps on the left and right sides with the middle open. Try you're best to get it very even and centered so your mane is in turn centered. Using a ruler and a marker mark ½ to ¾ inch from the middle on both the left and right sides, this will give you a 1 to 1 ½ inch thick mane. You can do an even thicker mane if you'd like.. You can either mark the top of the hat in the same way or just use the horn as a point to work up to. As you are attaching the mane visualize a line going from the starting point to the horn or marked top section of your hat., this will keep your mane straight and looking nice. (You can also draw this line in too, just try to cover it completely when you add in the mane pieces.) If you are doing just 1 color for the mane then go on to the next paragraph. If you are using multiple colors you need to add one more step. Measure the length of the area that will have the mane attached to it. The easiest way to do this is on a mannequin head but if one is not available you can just hold the hat open with your hand or another object. Now divide the length of the area you mane will be on by the number of colors you want to use. So for instance, if I have 4 inches of area for my mane, and I want to use 6 colors (rainbow) each section of color will be approximately.66 inches long, I am lazy and would think okay so close to.75 or ¾ of an inch. I would then again use a ruler and measure my hat to see how many rows it takes to make ¾ inch in height. Then I know each color will need to cover x number of rows. (This way I don't get half way done and realize that I added way too much of one color and will have to un-do and re-do a bunch of work!) To attach the mane I have found that starting from the base of the hat and working up to the crown is the easiest. You are going to take 2-3 strands of yarn (if you're using regular yarn use 2, if your using split yarn or specialty yarn use 3), fold your yarn in half so you have a loop, insert your hook from the

6 outside of the hat in, on the side of the post of your st, around the post coming back out the other side of the st, insert your hook into the loop of yarn you made with the mane pieces, pull a small loop through, yarn over and pull completely through. (Photo tutorial below) Do this around each st post inside the area you marked for your hats mane. The top around the beginning of the hat can be a bit tricky, just do your best to evenly space the pieces of yarn. Another option you have with the main is to stop behind the horn or work the mane all the way around the horn. If you have any questions, comments or concerns please me at rockymountaincrochet@hotmail.com. It is very important to me that this pattern be easy to read and understand as well as being accurate. I appreciate being *politely* told of any errors found so I may correct them. This pattern HAS been tested, special thanks to my testers for helping with this pattern! This pattern may not be copied for resale in part or in whole. It is illegal to post this pattern online or share with others without written consent from Nichole Sauer. Items created from this pattern MAY be sold. Please include a link to Rocky Mountain Crochet Design if selling items made from this pattern online.

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