Quilt finishes 90" square. Available in brown and hyacinth colorways.

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Conrad Peters
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1 Quilt finishes 90" square. Available in brown and hyacinth colorways.

2 orsica by Jinny Beyer features stunning compass blocks linked by log cabin variation blocks. Although all the compass blocks are the same, fussy cutting the border print and feature fabrics gives every block a different look. All seam allowances are ¼-inch. WOF = Width of. Press seam allowances to one side. Read the entire pattern before beginning. Pattern assumes basic quiltmaking knowledge. Motif A After cutting out the patches, be sure to transfer the seam intersection dots from the templates to the wrong side of the fabric patches. Step : Make Templates and/or Foundations The compass blocks can be made traditionally using templates or using a combination of templates and foundation piecing. (Templates A, E and F are required for all methods.) hoose one method and follow the cutting and sewing instructions for that method. Use see-through template plastic to make the templates from the patterns on page. Using a permanent marker, transfer all markings including the dashed sewing line, seam intersection dots and grain line arrow(s) from the patterns to the templates. If using foundations, make 2 copies of the foundation page for 208 foundations. Step 2: ut Border & Binding s Note that the border strips are cut oversized in length and will be trimmed to fit the quilt in Step 7. (Middle Border): ut 0 strips measuring 3" x WOF. 5 (Binding): Reserve fabric measuring 30" x WOF. 9: (Inside & Outside Borders): Be sure to include ¼- inch of seam allowance fabric on both long sides of the strips. (The seam allowance fabric is the solid or semi-solid area between the printed design stripes.) ut four wide and four narrow stripes, each measuring 08" long. Set these pieces aside until Step 7. Log abin Blocks: From the remaining wide stripes and referring to the Note on utting Border Print es and the illustration (top right), use Template F to mark and cut 24 identical triangles from one design motif and another 24 identical triangles from a second motif. Motif B raw a portion of the design onto the template to assist you in finding that exact motif elsewhere on the fabric. ut 24 of each motif. Step 3: ut s For Log abin Blocks ut the following patches. (Background): 24 strips measuring ½" x WOF; then from each strip cut 2 pieces measuring 0½" and 2 pieces measuring 8½" for 48 of each; 8 strips measuring ½" x WOF; then from each strip cut 3 pieces measuring 2½" for 24 pieces. 4 strips measuring ½" x WOF; then from each strip cut pieces measuring ½" for 24 pieces. 2: ut 9 squares (brown)/48 squares (hyacinth) measuring 2½". On the wrong side of each patch, draw a line from one corner to the opposite corner. s 3-5: Brown olorway: From s 3 and 5, cut forty-eight 2½" squares. Hyacinth olorway: From s, 3, 4 and 5, cut forty-eight 2½" squares. On the wrong side of each patch, draw a line from one corner to the opposite corner. : ut strips measuring ½" x WOF. Then cut four of the strips into three pieces measuring 2½" and the remaining twelve strips each into two pieces measuring 4½" and one piece measuring 2½". Note on utting Border Print es When placing templates on border print fabric, center the template on a mirror-image motif and align the sewing line under the arrow just underneath a printed line on the border print fabric. This will create pleasing symmetry and a strong defining edge when your patch is sewn. To help you cut multiple identical patches, draw a portion of the design motif from the fabric onto your template. Then find that drawn motif elsewhere on the fabric for the next patch.

3 Step 4: Make the Log abin Blocks When sewing the strips to the center squares, first sew the side strips, then add the top and bottom strips. Before adding the next round of strips, the flying geese corners are added. Refer to the color illustrations and line drawing (right) for fabric reference as necessary. Please note that the fabric number of the flying geese corner added in the third round is different for the brown and hyacinth colorways. Sew two sets of matching triangles together, then sew the pairs together. Repeat to make 2 of each motif. Add the side strips to a center unit. Press, then add the top and bottom strips /4 Place the 2 squares on the block, matching the outside edges and orienting the diagonal lines as shown. Sew on the diagonal line of all four squares. Trim off the corners and underlying block ¼" outside the stitching line on all sides. 9 Template F The two colorways use the same fabric numbers in the same order with the exception of the circled flying geese triangle. The brown version repeats 2, while the hyacinth version uses 4. Flip the corners to the right side and press. ontinue adding the side strips, top/bottom strips and corner squares in order until the last round is complete. 2 Repeat to make 2 blocks. Blocks measure 4½" including seam allowances.

4 Step 5: ut s for ompass Blocks All Piecing Methods : ut 52 patches using Template E (Hyacinth Only): ut 04 patches using Template B. 5: ut 52 squares measuring 2½". On the wrong side of each patch, draw a line from one corner to the opposite corner. : ut 8 strips measuring ½" x WOF. Then cut four of the strips into three pieces measuring 2½" and the remaining twelve strips each into two pieces measuring 4½" and one piece measuring 2½". Brown Only: ut 04 patches using Template B. 7: Referring to page 5 for placement details, cut 3 different sets of eight identical patches using Template A Traditional Piecing Only : ut 4 patches using Template. (Hyacinth Only): ut 208 patches using Template. 8 (Brown Only): ut 208 patches using Template. Traditional with Foundations Only : ut 208 squares measuring 3½" and cut them once on the diagonal to make 4 triangles. (Hyacinth Only): ut 208 patches measuring ½" x 4". 8 (Brown Only): ut 208 patches measuring ½" x 4". Blocks measure 4½" incl. seam allowance. Make 3. E B A Step : Make the ompass Blocks Follow the instructions to make one block. Repeat to make 3 blocks. a) Foundation: Sew the fabrics to the paper foundations, following the piecing order indicated in the circled numbers. Trim the foundations along the outer solid lines. Make sixteen. a) Traditional: Sew a patch to both long sides of a patch. Repeat to make sixteen. b) Both Methods: Sew a unit made in the previous step to each long side of a B patch. Repeat to make eight. a) Make sixteen using foundations or traditional methods. Traditional Piecing Foundations E B A 3 b) Make eight background units. Traditional Piecing with Foundations

5 c)sew two identical A patches together, starting/stopping at the dot. Repeat to make four pairs of star points. d)using an inset seam, sew a background unit between the points of the star unit made in (c). o not sew past the dot. Repeat to make four. e) Sew two of the units together, starting at the dot. Repeat to make two. Then, using an inset seam, sew a background unit between the star points. Repeat to make two. f) Sew together the two units made in the previous step, starting/ stopping at the dots. Using inset seams, sew the last two background units between the star points. E g) arefully pin an E patch to the compass along the curved edge, matching the compass points and the dots on E. Sew the curved seam, starting and stopping at the dots shown. Repeat for the three remaining E patches. Sew the short straight E seams, starting/ stopping at the dots on the inside edge. Alternatively, sew the E patches together along the short seams, then sew the compass into the frame. h) To complete the block, frame the block with the remaining strips and add the 5 flying geese corners using the same method as in the Log abin blocks. Remove the paper foundation. Step 7: omplete the Quilt Referring to the pattern cover, sew the blocks together into five rows of five blocks, alternating compass and log cabin blocks. Rows, 3 and 5 begin with compass blocks; Rows 2 and 4 begin with log cabin blocks. Sew the rows togther. Middle Border: Sew the ten strips together end-to-end, then divide into four even sections. Add the borders to the quilt, following the instructions for a square quilt and Adding Multiple Borders in Framing a Quilt the Jinny Beyer Way. For a video demonstration of the technique, visit 4 Step 8: Quilt & Bind the Quilt Layer the quilt as follows: backing (wrong side up), batting, quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together and quilt as desired. When quilting is completed, trim backing and batting even with the quilt edges. Make binding strips using the reserved binding fabric. Bind the quilt using your favorite binding method or by following the instructions in Binding a Quilt the Jinny Beyer Way at

6 7 utting Instructions Selvedge Width of The main design motif of 7 repeats multiple times across the width of the fabric, with every other repeat rotated upside down. There are five full motifs and one partial motif (nearest the white selvedge of the fabric) that can be used across the fabric width. In the illustration above, the pink lines show the mirror line of the design motif and the dotted grey lines outline a main portion of the motif. The 7 points in each compass block are different to add interest and variety to the quilt. This is achieved by positioning Template A on different portions of the fabric design and by rotating the template upside down for some blocks. Template A should be positioned with the template s mirror line centered on the design motif (pink line). Working down one design motif at a time, position the template on the fabric, mark some of the fabric design on the template with a permanent marker, then mark around the template on the fabric using chalk. This is Motif. Shift the template down a bit (the templates should be positioned fairly close together to make best use of the fabric) and repeat the process for Motif 2. Use a different color marker for marking Motif 2 on the template. Because you will be marking thirteen different motifs, use a number of plastic templates and a variety of colored markers for tracing the fabric design on the templates. Once you have marked thirteen different motifs down a single design repeat, begin again with Motif. When you have used the length of the fabric along one motif, begin at the top of the fabric, aligning the template mirror line with the center of the second motif. Remember that because the fabric motifs are rotated upside down every repeat, you will have to turn the templates 80 when you switch to a new design repeat on the fabric. 5

7 JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Template E JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Template Template B Template Size heck This box should measure 2 inches square. If the box does not measure 2", your templates will not be the correct size. JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Mirror Line Template JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica If you are printing at home, be sure your printer is set to print at 00% with no scaling. Mirror Line Template A Mirror Line Template F JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica

8 Make 2 copies of this page for 208 foundations. For Position, use (hyacinth) or 8 (brown). JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation ½" x 4" ½" x 4" JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation ½" x 4" ½" x 4" ½" x 4" 7 JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation Template Size heck This box should measure 2 inches square. If the box does not measure 2", your templates/foundations will not be the correct size. If you are printing at home, be sure your printer is set to print at 00% with no scaling. JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation ½" x 4" ½" x 4" ½" x 4" JINNY BEYER STUIO orsica Foundation

9 Requirements Hyacinth Brown yards /8 yard 3 /3 yard 4 /3 yard Jinny Beyer has created a series of videos on design, color and quilting skills. Visit for more information on and demonstrations of three of the techniques used in this project: inset/y-seams; fussy cutting border patches; and framing a quilt using border print fabric ½ yard + 7/8 yard for binding ¼ yards ½ yards /8 yard ½ yards Backing: 8¼ yards required (not included) or -04 suggested. opyright holder retains all rights to this pattern but grants permission for it to be reproduced by manual or mechanical means for personal use only , Jinny Beyer Pattern Written by Elaine Kelly

10 Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way Jinny Beyer s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners. In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a /4" seam allowance is provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across the fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus an additional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners. For a video demonstration of this bordering technique, visit Framing a Square Quilt. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering a motif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias edges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt from ruffling at the edges.) 2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of the sides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print. Then carefully move the triangle until the angled side touches the point where the top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in iagram.) Mark, then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the quilt, the seam allowance is already included.) iagram : Mark the miter. 3. arefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of the strip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edge of the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that the design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motif from the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at the edges. ut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the triangle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.) 4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, making sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces. iagram 2: ut three pieces identical to the first. 5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. To find the spot, simply draw a short line /4-inch inside the mitered edge and the short edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. o the same for each corner of your quilt.. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. ontinue pinning the border to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, starting and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from the inside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design elements on both pieces. iagram 3: orrectly cut and sewn borders will have designs that flow around the corners. 200, Jinny Beyer

11 Framing a Rectangular Quilt With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs will automatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.. First, follow steps -3 above and cut two identical strips for the short ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of the quilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to match, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exact center of the quilt. 2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the border print stripe, matching the fabric designs. ut one miter to match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay the newly cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning one mitered edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilt on the strip as in iagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut it off ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece identical to it. You also need two strips that are the exact mirror images of these pieces. Using one of the strips you just cut, flip it over and lay it on a iagram 4: Find and strip of border print, matching the fabric mark the center of the quilt design exactly. (The two strips will be right on the border strip. sides together.) ut the miter and straight edges to match the top piece. Using the newly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece. 3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these borders to the quilt as in Steps 5 and in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to a rectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be a seam at the center of the long strips (iagram 5), but the design at that center will mirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt. g iagram 5: The long borders on rectangular quilts have center seams. Applying Multiple Borders Jinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, she will frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating fabric as a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe from the border print. Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, when the middle border is a fabric that doesn t have to be matched at the corners, she recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the second border to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border in the steps above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after the first two borders have been completed and sewn to the quilt. Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typically sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. This allows her to carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed on the border print fabric. For details, see iagram : Applying multiple borders Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way 2 200, Jinny Beyer

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