SEW-IN INTERFACING A PIECES: 2,4 & 5 LINING A PIECES: 6,7 & 8 JACKET B PIECES: 1,3,4,5,6,9 & 11

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1 Page ( pages) FRIC CUTTING LYOUTS Indicates ustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or iceps. Measurements refer to circumference of Finished Garment (ody Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease). djust Pattern if necessary. Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, /" (mm) SEM LLOWNCES RE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING INFORMTION for seam allowance. Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly according to your pattern size. ll layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap, pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NP layout. 0" (0 cm) --C-D-E 0" (0 cm) F-G " ( cm) I " ( cm) J Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows... 0" (0 cm) JCKET, Front Front Interfacing 0 SINGLE THICKNESS Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place pile side down.) DOULE THICKNESS WITH FOLD Fold fabric right sides together. WITHOUT FOLD With right sides together, fold fabric CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (). Keeping right sides together, turn upper layer completely around so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer. GRINLINE Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point in direction of pile.) FOLD Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric. NEVER cut on this line. When pattern piece is shown like this... Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece (). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as shown (). Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer. Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long, even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward. Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.) SEW-IN INTERFCING PIECES:, & " (0 cm) T " ( cm) T LINING PIECES:, & " ( cm) --C-D " ( cm) E-F-G-H 0" (0 cm) --C-D-E 0" (0 cm) F-G 0" (0 cm) 0" * JCKET [] ack Upper Collar nd Front Facing ack Neck Facing Sleeve ack Lining Front Lining Pocket Facing NOTE: roken-line boxes ( a! b!c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by measurements provided. JCKET PIECES:,,, & " ( cm) --C-D-E " ( cm) I-J CT 0 Pocket Fringe TODY S FIT SIZING Y SNDR ETZIN SIZE C D E F G H I J bust 0/ in waist / / 0 / / / / / / 0 / hips / / / 0 / / back waist length / / / / / / / / T. de poitrine cm T. de taille.. 0 T. de hanches Nuque à taille " ( cm) F-G-H " ( cm) I-J JCKET PIECES:,,,,, & " ( cm) --C-D-E " ( cm) F-G-H SEW-IN INTERFCING PIECES:, & " (0 cm) T " ( cm) T LINING PIECES:,, & 0 " ( cm) McCall Pattern Company. 00. ll Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S..

2 " ( cm) -C-D 0 Page ( pages) 0 0 If using strips for fringe cut from the pattern tissue, sew the strips together at center back in a / (.cm) seam, and along the boundary line, using long machine stitches. Fringe the wider section of strip to the stitching. If your hips are small and your tummy is large, do not taper back to the smaller size in the hip or your tummy will just look larger. Instead, taper back to half the amount added. If you have a narrow back, make a deeper shoulder and waistline darts to take out some of the fullness. You can even connect the dart if you are very narrow. Constructing the jacket Interface the front facing and back neck facing, and the jacket front with the front interfacing pattern piece provided. If your fabric has a loose weave, either use a sew-in interfacing, or block fuse the fabric before you cut out so that the jacket will not shrink in the fusing process. " ( cm) E-F-G " ( cm) SEWING INFORMTION /" (.cm) SEM LLOWNCES RE INCLUDED, (unless otherwise indicated) ILLUSTRTION SHDING KEY Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat. FLIP COLLR JCKET, y Sandra etzina NOTE: Illustrated for View, the longer jacket, unless otherwise indicated. ltering the pattern ecause of the clean lines of this jacket, the front facing is an ideal candidate for fringe, covered piping, ruched piping, fur trim, separating zipper, embroidery, hand picking or simply a front facing in a contrasting fabric. The jacket construction is very easy so you will make it many times. Since the jacket meets at center front and does not overlap, the front can be left without closures or closed with a separating zipper. You can even belt it 0 This jacket can be made in silk crepe de chine but I would suggest underlining the entire garment with either preshrunk cotton flannel, silk organza or cotton batiste to give it more body. NOTE: Close dart involved on front pattern piece when making bust, hip, tummy or shoulder adjustments. On the sizing chart for Today s Fit Patterns, find your bust, waist and hip sizes. Very few women are one size in all categories. Using a highlighter pen, outline your sizes on the pattern, using your bust size to (cm) below the armhole. Transition gradually to the hip size starting (cm) down from the armhole. Make a smooth transition between sizes. If your hip is larger than the largest size in your multisize group, compare your hip to the largest size in your multisize group. The difference is the total alteration. Divide by and add this amount past the largest size in your group to the hip at the side Transition gradually from (cm) below the armhole to beyond the largest size in the hip. If you know that you are narrow in the shoulders, cut a size smaller than your bust size between the bottom of the armhole to the neck. Cut the smaller size on the cap of the sleeve, transitioning to the larger size at the underarm If you have a rounded back and your jackets always hike up at the hemline, starting (.cm) from the neckline cut the pattern apart from the center back to the armhole to within / (cm) of the pattern edge, leaving the pattern attached at the armhole so that it acts as a hinge. Lift the upper back / (.cm) or more, letting the addition taper to zero at the armhole. This will give you the length you need, and it will also curve the center back for a better fit for the rounded back. Since patterns are designed for a person to, if you are shorter or taller, you will get a better fit by shortening or lengthening between the top and the bottom of the armhole on the front, back and sleeve. If the armhole always feels too low, or you usually buy petites, shorten the pattern / (.cm) between the upper dart and shoulder on the front armhole, and between the notch and the shoulder on the back and sleeves. If the armhole usually feels too tight, lengthen in the same place, / (.cm) or more, to make the armhole feel comfortable. Two finished lengths for the jacket are provided: (.cm) and (.cm). Go to your closet and measure your favorite jacket from the neckline seam to the hem at center back. This will give you a reference point for a desired length for this jacket. If your ideal length is somewhere in-between (.cm) and (.cm), simply draw a new cutting line or add length at the bottom if you want it longer. Mark all darts and symbols so that they are clearly visible. The front darts on this pattern not only give shape but can be a place for embellishment, such as topstitching or hand picking. Since the front darts are diagonal and prone to stretching, place (mm) wide stays, such as strips of lengthwise grain silk organza or soft cotton under the darts to prevent them from stretching. Cut stays the length of darts plus (mm). Place and sew stays behind the darts. This precaution is only needed for front darts. Sew front and back darts. Clip back waistline darts at waist and cut open in the middle vertically so that the back darts can be partially pressed open. If you decide to use self fringe along the front and collar edges on View, experiment with fringing the fabric on the crosswise and the lengthwise grain. First, decide which direction fringes the easiest, and which color fringe you like best. fter making this decision, cut a long strip of fabric / (.cm) wide in the desired direction, or use the given pattern piece (Fringe). This width will give you a seam allowance and / (cm) of fringe. efore you cut out your garment, cut the strips to be fringed so that you will end up with long strips or use the pattern piece given in the pattern. Staystitch / (.cm) along side. Fringe long strip, leaving / (.cm) unfringed. If your tummy and not the hip is the problem, add at the tummy in the same way, tapering back to the bust size, (cm) below the armhole at the side If you have a protruding butt, the back has a center back seam so that you can add below the waist at center back. Press front darts down and back shoulder darts toward center back. McCall Pattern Company. 00. ll Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S..

3 Stitch back sections together at center back. Page ( pages) Center front zipper - View Since separating zippers are usually a bit heavy, it is a good idea to support both layers, the jacket front and the front facing with interfacing before the zipper is applied. The jacket front is interfaced with a separate interfacing pattern piece (front interfacing), and the entire front facing is interfaced. Make sure the upper large circle which marks the beginning of the roll line is clearly visible on both jacket fronts since the top of the zipper starts there. With right sides together and notches matching, sew pocket bag with pocket facing to jacket back, using a / (mm) Press seams toward pocket bags. For View, sew side seams. Reinforce corners on fronts and upper collar/front facing with small stitches / (.cm) from cut edge of seam for (mm) on either side of the corner (small circle). Cut into each corner to stitching. Unzip the separating zipper so that it is now in two pieces. Place the right side of the zipper tape against the right side of the right jacket front with the zipper tape in the seam allowance and the teeth toward the front. Pin the zipper tape to the front so that the stitching line on the zipper tape will be / (.cm) from the cut edge of the jacket front. Machine-baste the zipper tapes to the jacket fronts. Joining facing and sleeves to jacket Join the fronts together at center back. Embellish front darts now with topstitching or hand picking if desired, even in a contrasting color if you want the diagonal lines to stand out. STYSTITCH back neck edge. With right side together, pin back shoulder to front shoulder and neckline, matching the small circle on the back shoulder with the small circle in the corner of the front. Hand picking is one of my favorite finishes because it is very subtle and very classy. Use a single thread of embroidery floss or topstitching thread, which has not been beeswaxed. Hand pick front / (mm) below each dart so that it goes through more than one fabric thickness. Thread can be run through THRED HEVEN, a thread conditioner to keep the thread from knotting and twisting. Stitches are placed / (mm) apart. When thread comes out on the face of the fabric, take a small backstitch / (mm) long. Do not pull the thread too tight, since the stitches look better if they are floating on the surface. fter the backstitch, slide the thread between the fabric layers for another / (mm) before bringing out onto the face of the fabric again. This can also decorate the front edge and collar after the facing has been applied. Pockets - View View jacket is too short for side seam pockets but pockets work well in View jacket. Matching shapes, overlay pocket facings onto two pocket bags, and zig zag long edge in place and baste raw edges together. Pockets go in before sewing side seams permanently. With right sides together and notches matching, sew pocket bag without pocket facing to jacket front, using a / (mm) Understitch pocket bag. To sew side seams, open out pocket bags and place right sides of jacket front and back together. Pin side seams and pocket bags together. Machine baste side seams at / (.cm) seam, leaving open between large circles. Sew around pocket bag to the side For View, with right sides together, pin and baste fringe to front opening and collar edges, matching center back seams and having the unfringed area in the seam allowance. Clip into the unfringed seam allowance at the collar point so it can conform. (NOTE: Fringe will not be shown in the following illustrations except where indicated.) With right sides together, join the upper collar/front facing pieces together at center back. Press seams open. The small circles must match. Place pins on the front side where the seam allowance has been clipped into the corner. egin shoulder seam at armhole, sewing toward the neckline to the small circle. t the small circle, leave the needle in the fabric and lift the presserfoot and adjust the fabric layers. llow the neckline to open at the clips to accommodate the shape of the back. Lower the presserfoot and sew across the back neck to the center back. Repeat the process on the other side of the back neck. Try on jacket. Slip in a pair of shoulderpads. Refine fit. McCall Pattern Company. 00. ll Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S..

4 Resew side seams with a normal stitch length for View. Press seam open. Clip into back seam allowance above and below pocket so that when the pocket can be pressed toward the front, the seam allowances above and below the pocket can be pressed open. Page ( pages) Press seams open. Trim and grade seams. Understitch the front facing from the upper large circle marking the roll line to the lower edge by attaching the seam allowance to the facing. To help the upper and under collar work together as a unit, hand stitch the two layers together by stitching in the well of the center back Marry the back necklines of jacket and facing together. Pin in the well of the neckline Join the back neckline seams together with a stab stitch. Make sure the notches and symbols are clearly visible on garment armhole and sleeve. With right sides together, sew underarm seam in sleeve. Run an easeline on sleeve cap, or pull in ease with a bias cut (cm) wide strip of lambswool or mohair which can be left in the seam and act as a sleeve head. On the lower part of the armhole between the notches, trim down the seam allowance to / (mm). Padding the sleeve cap fills in the hollow between the sleeve seam and the top of the cap and makes a smooth transition without ease showing in the cap. Cut a (cm) wide piece of bias lambswool or mohair the length across the top of the sleeve from notch to notch. Position the strip on the wrong side of the sleeve between the notches over the armhole seam with -/ (.cm) of the strip extending into the sleeve cap. Machine sew the sleeve head in place by resewing the sleeve seam between the notches in the cap area. The strip extends further into the cap than the seam allowance which helps to pad the cap. Press the sleeve seam allowance toward the sleeve. Hems Open out the front facing. Cut out seam allowance bulk in hem. Run an easeline on the bottom of the jacket. Fold up (cm) hems on the jacket, front facing and the sleeve and press in place. Trim seam allowances in the hem to / (mm). If you like a crisp hem, cut a strip of bias silk organza or wiggam, / (.cm) wider than the (cm) hem allowance. Position the organza so that the organza is flat against the jacket with one raw edge along the hem crease. Catchstitch the organza along upper and lower edges. Join the back neck facing to the upper collar/front facing, using the same sewing technique for sewing the fronts to back. Press seams open. Trim seams to / (mm). Turn front facing to inside, turning the collar right side out. (Turn zipper teeth out on View ; turn fringe out on View.) Hand baste close to the outside edge. Press and pound flat. Press underarm seam open and steam cap of sleeve over a tailor s ham to shrink in some of the sleeve ease. jacket will always hang better on the body with shoulderpads, even if they are small ones but this is optional. The width of the shoulderpad can be reduced if you have small shoulders by simply cutting down on the narrow end of the pad. () To insert the shoulderpad, fold the shoulderpad in half. Open out facing, position the pad on the shoulder seam so that the fat end of the pad extends / (.cm) beyond the armhole () Pin pad in place by pinning the pad to the seam from the outside of the jacket in the well of the (C) On the inside of the jacket, fold back the jacket so that you can see the shoulder seam allowance as it lays open on the shoulderpad. Hand sew the shoulderpad to each side of the shoulder seam allowance with a whip stitch. (D) To keep the shoulderpad in place as you slip the jacket on and off, attach the bottom corners of the shoulderpad to the armhole with a chain stitch giving (mm) play between the seam allowance and the shoulderpad. Hand hem in place / (.cm) from the raw edge of the hem so that the lining can be attached by machine. The secret to invisible hems is to use a single thread, never beeswax the thread and to never take a stitch in the hem and the garment at the same time. Take one stitch in the hem, move forward / (mm) and take one stitch in the garment, move forward / (mm) and take one stitch in the hem, never pulling the hem too tight. With right sides together, pin upper collar/front and back facing unit to jacket front and back. Sew / (.cm) seam, stretching the fronts to fit between large circles. With right sides together, pin sleeve into armhole, matching notches, and large circle on the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam and square to side Sew sleeve into armhole. If the armhole notches do not match perfectly, it is OK. The most important matching points on the sleeve are to line up the large circle on the top of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and the square which marks the underarm on the sleeve with the side C D Make hem on sleeve in same manner. With front facing opened out, match up seam allowance on the front facing with the seam allowance in the hem. From the right side of the jacket, marry the two seams together by sewing in the well of the McCall Pattern Company. 00. ll Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S..

5 If you saw how quickly the industry slips a lining into a jacket, you might question the time you have spent doing the same thing. Sew all seams in lining with a 0/0 HJ or HM needle and preferably all cotton thread for pucker free seams. Sew darts in back lining. With right sides together, sew back seam in back lining. Sew down center back along stitching line above small circle. This will create a pleat at the neck. Page ( pages) agging the lining Stitch sleeve lining in same manner as jacket. Insert and sew sleeve linings into lining. Press well. The lining now looks like a separate jacket. Jacket has been completely constructed including facings, shoulderpad insertion and hemming at jacket bottom and sleeves. Jacket and sleeves have been hand hemmed / (.cm) from hem edge to allow enough room to machine sew lining and garment together. Hong Kong finish or serge finish bottom (cm) of front facing. oth lining and jacket should be well pressed before process begins. You can decorate lining seam with a narrow braid and decorative stitching, right after this step if you want. If lining jackets is a nemesis for you, I have made a video called LININGS which show the bagging of the lining technique which is a bit difficult to visualize from written instructions. To get one call --00, or go on my website: Spread jacket on the table with the lining side against the table and the outside of the jacket facing you. Fold sleeves into middle of the outside of the jacket. Turn the jacket back on itself by bringing the hem of the jacket toward the hem of the lining. Continue around until the right side of the jacket hem and the raw edge of the lining meet. It looks like a bulky roll with sleeves inside. Join the jacket hem to the bottom edge of the lining with a continuous / (mm) seam from one side of the facing, across the hem to the other side of the facing, unless you forgot to leave an opening in the lining for turning. If this is the case, leave an (cm) opening in the middle of the hem. With the jacket side up, start and stop sewing (mm) away from where facing joins lining. t the bottom of the lining and the facing on the front bottom edge of the jacket, let the facing lie flat, even if you need to take out of few stitches of the lining and hem djust fold at joint of hem lining and facing to lie flat, folding in raw edges. Sew in place by hand, also attaching the bottom edge of the facing to the hem allowance. Press. Staystitch back neckline and clip / (cm) into seam allowance on back neck so that the inside curve of the back neck will conform to the outside curve of the back neck facing. With right sides together, pin lining and jacket along front and neck facings, matching notches. The raw edge of the lining and the hem crease are even. Place pins on the interfaced facing side of the jacket so that the lining edge does not stretch as the lining is attached to the facing. egin sewing seam (mm) from the bottom edge of the lining. Sew one continuous seam from the bottom of one front facing, up one side, around neck and back down the other side, ending seam (mm) from the bottom edge of the lining. Turn jacket and lining right side out. Insert sleeve lining into jacket sleeve. Try on jacket. Match jacket sleeve and lining sleeve hems at seams. Pin together at seam placement. This step eliminates twisting the sleeve lining when attaching sleeve hems. lign jacket and lining at underarm seams. From the outside of the jacket, sew-in-the-ditch of the seam for (mm) at underarm on the jacket body. Sew darts in front lining. Sew front lining and back lining together at shoulders and side seams, leaving a (cm) opening in one side To turn the jacket right side out, reach in through the (cm) opening on the side seam or bottom of the lining. Turn jacket right side out. Close opening inside seam by hand. Reach in from opened bottom edge on the jacket between jacket and lining. Tack lining to shoulderpads at the shoulder. Turn sleeves on lining and jacket wrong side out in between jacket and lining. Jacket sleeve will pull lining sleeve with it since they are pinned at the bottom edge at seam joints. Pinning right sides of sleeves together, overlap lining onto sleeve. ligning seams, sew sleeve lining to sleeve at bottom edge, using a / (mm) Now pull sleeves right sides out. Lining is now attached to jacket except for bottom edge. Press both seams allowances toward jacket. McCall Pattern Company. 00. ll Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S..