6050 FASHION AND FABRICS

Transcription

1 UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL EXAMINATIONS GCE Ordinary Level MARK SCHEME for the October/November 2010 question paper for the guidance of teachers 6050 FASHION AND FABRICS 6050/01 Paper 1 (Theory), maximum raw mark 80 This mark scheme is published as an aid to teachers and candidates, to indicate the requirements of the examination. It shows the basis on which Examiners were instructed to award marks. It does not indicate the details of the discussions that took place at an Examiners meeting before marking began, which would have considered the acceptability of alternative answers. Mark schemes must be read in conjunction with the question papers and the report on the examination. CIE will not enter into discussions or correspondence in connection with these mark schemes. CIE is publishing the mark schemes for the October/November 2010 question papers for most IGCSE, GCE Advanced Level and Advanced Subsidiary Level syllabuses and some Ordinary Level syllabuses.

2 Page 2 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper Section A 1 (a) A front yoke G raglan seam B armhole/sleeveless edge/binding H sleeve binding/edge/cuff/band not hem C gathers into yoke/neck I patch pocket D tie belt/waist/sash J single dart/back dart waist E short gathered raglan sleeve K side zip fastener F top front/bodice L crotch seam/cb seam 1 mark for each correct point [12] (b) Details of Voile and Jersey fabrics needed to make the top View B: (i) Fabric: Voile Fibre: cotton/cotton blends/silk Structure: plain weave/woven Appearance: spaces between threads/printed design or plain/translucent Feel/handle: soft/smooth/crisp/hard finish Weight: lightweight 1 mark for each correct point [5] (ii) Fabric: Jersey Fibre: (different fibre content from (b)(i)) e.g. cotton and polyester (or other suitable fibre e.g. viscose, linen, silk, wool, acetate) Structure: weft knitting/knitted Appearance: according to fibre e.g. smooth, plain, printed Feel/handle: soft, stretchy, drapes, smooth, wool medium Weight: lightweight/medium 1 mark for each correct point [5] (iii) Two reasons why the Voile fabric described in (i) is suitable for the top, View B could include: lightweight fabric, gathers well; suitable for layered look over trousers; transparent look; cool for hot weather; floaty ; hangs well; any other relevant point 1 mark for each correct point [2] (iv) Two reasons why a French seam could be suitable: fabric is thin and lightweight so is suitable for the process; fabric frays so French seam would be stronger; neater on inside as no raw edges show; would wear well due to strength; any other appropriate point. 1 mark for each correct point [2]

3 Page 3 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (c) (i) State two body measurements which would be needed for the Dress, View A: bust; waist; hips; back neck to waist. 1 mark for each correct point [2] (ii) Explain why it is important to measure the body when choosing a pattern. It helps with choice of correct size when buying pattern; ensures you buy the pattern for your figure type; to reduce the amount of pattern alteration required; ensure good fit e.g. need bust measurement so that not too small or large. [1] (iii) Explain how to measure the body accurately. Body measurement given in (i): bust or waist or hip line; measure from nape of neck to waist/around bust/waist/hips with tape measure, allow just enough movement for tape measure to have ease; hands by sides; get someone to assist; minimal clothes. [1] (d) (i) Completed list of requirements to make the top, View B in size 10: Fabric: Voile Width: 115cm/45 Amount: 1.9m or 2 and 8 th yds 150cm/60 1.5m or 1 and 5 8 th yds Interfacing: Type: non woven/vilene/other make/lightweight fusible Width: 55 64cm/22 25 Amount: 50cm or 1 2 yard Amount and width should be in the correct column for full marks. Thread: Fibre Content: cotton/polyester/silk as appropriate; Amount: 100m or 1 reel/110yd Accept brand names e.g. Drima/Sylko/Guttermann etc. 1 mark for each correct point [7] (e) Fabric layout for the top, View B: (i) Small layout diagram: selvedges at top edge; fold at bottom edge Large layout diagram: fold at top and bottom edges; selvedges in the middle 1 mark for each correct point [5] (ii) Labelled pattern pieces: 1 yoke front/yoke facing 2 yoke back/yoke facing 3 dress front 4 dress back 5 sleeve 6 sleeve binding/bias strip 7 pocket 1 mark for each correct point [7] (iii) The layout uses two pieces of fabric because: it is the most economical layout to reduce wastage of fabric; sleeve piece (number 5) will not fit on the larger layout because the pieces are too wide. 1 mark [1]

4 Page 4 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (iv) Piece 6 has been laid diagonally on the fabric because: fabric with some stretch/give/ease is needed for the sleeve binding and the piece will be on the true cross/bias of fabric. 1 mark [1] (v) Explanation of one way to make sure pieces 3 and 4 are not muddled when making up the dress View B: label the pieces with paper or chalk on the wrong side of fabric; leave pattern pieces on the fabric until the last minute before making up; refer to notches and pattern markings; any other relevant point; not deeper neckline. 1 mark [1] (f) (i) Correct drawing and labelling of the following pattern markings: straight grain line: balance mark: fold line: seam allowance: cutting line: seam line: pocket: (ii) One reason why each of the following pattern markings is important in making the pocket: Straight Grain line: make sure pattern piece is straight and fabric is correctly cut on grain of fabric; make sure fabric does not stretch which may affect the fit/accuracy; pocket shape may be distorted; helps with matching one way designs. [1] Balance mark: shows where fabric needs to be folded to make facing along top edge of pocket; NOT as not in making pocket. [1] Fold line: fabric is folded along this line to make top edge of facing. [1] Seam line: shows where fabric is to be folded ready for top stitching; shows where stitching is to be carried out. [1] [6]

5 Page 5 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (g) Correct order of words: gather; notches; large dots; sleeve binding; tying or pinning; zig-zag; unnotched; right sides; seams; hemming. (i) Gather the top edge of the sleeve between the notches, [2] (ii) Gather the lower edge of the sleeve between the large dots. [1] (iii) Pull up gathers on lower edge to fit the sleeve binding. [1] (iv) Fasten ends securely by tying or pinning. [1] (v) Stitch underarm seam and neaten edges using zig-zag stitch. [1] (vi) Prepare sleeve binding by stitching ends and pressing under 1 cm along unnotched edge. [1] (vii) With right sides together, pin binding to lower edge of sleeve, matching large dots and seams. Machine stitch along seam line. Press. [2] (viii) On inside, pin pressed edge of binding over the seam. Secure using hemming stitch. [1] 1 mark for each correct point (h) Wash tub: correct temperature for machine /hand wash 40/30 Celsius iron symbol: three dots (hot)or appropriate for fibre triangle: no bleaching so a cross through symbol circle: dry clean allowed, A or P inside (either chemical) square: drying instruction line/drip or tumble dry or dry flat 1 mark for each correct symbol up to a maximum of 3 symbols; I mark for each correct description of a symbol up to a maximum of 3 marks. Give marks for descriptions without symbols up to a maximum of 3 marks. [6] [Total: 78, to be scaled to 26 i.e. divide mark by 3]

6 Page 6 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper Section B 2 (a) State the origin of polyester fibres. Two oil based chemicals (1 mark maximum), terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol, (or suitable alternative chemicals) (2 marks for specific names), 1 mark given for petroleum. 1 mark for each appropriate point [2] (b) Give six important properties of polyester fibres. Very strong and hardwearing; low absorbency/quick drying; very good crease recovery so fabric does not crease much and often blended with other fibres which crease badly (e.g. cotton); resilient; thermoplastic, so softens with heat, can also have pleats set into the fabric; cool iron yarns can be heat set into a texture suitable for knitting and weaving; easily laundered; does not absorb stains easily; does suffer from pilling (bobbles on surface); builds up static which causes clinging; not biodegradable; does not attract moths, mould etc. 1 mark for each appropriate point up to 6 marks [6] (c) Name and describe one knitted fabric made from polyester. Suitable fabrics: polyester jersey; polyester tricot; polyester double jersey; polyester (weft or warp) knitted lace; polyester raschel (warp knit), or any other suitable knitted fabric made from polyester. Description to include the following, related to chosen fabric: right side appearance: purl loops; lustrous/matt finish; wrong side appearance: plain loops; lustrous/matt finish; feel/handle: light/medium weight depending on how thick fabric is and on thickness/density of the threads/yarns; handle: soft/floppy/smooth/etc; any other appropriate point, such as pile finish; lace effect due to holes/floating threads; different yarn/thread thicknesses; etc. 1 mark for correct name of fabric Up to 5 marks for appropriate description of fabric [6] (d) Iron cool, one dot 100 Celsius (for dry iron), or iron warm, two dots 150 Celsius (for steam setting) press on the wrong side of the fabric collar, cuffs, yoke, sleeves, darts, seams, hem, front facing etc. during construction position of shirts on ironing board/table, sleeve board equipment needed: steam iron, ironing board/table, pressing cloth, sleeve board 1 mark for each point up to 4 marks [4] [Total: 18]

7 Page 7 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper 3 (a) 4 points could include: Age of child: younger children may need simple styles of clothes e.g. few ruffles, pleats etc; more washable/easy clean clothes due to spillages/etc; occasion for clothing: e.g. school clothes need to be practical styles with easy movement/ semi-fitted/comfortable, etc; season: summer or winter styles could be separates so layers could be worn for warmth/remove layers if too warm, for comfort; details on the clothes: e.g. pockets to hold small items/toys; fastenings: simple/easy to use fastening styles such as zips, velcro, large buttons and buttonholes, for ease of use; safety considerations e.g. no small components, needs to be well attached; any other relevant point related to style chosen. 1 mark for each appropriate point up to 4 marks [4] (b) (i) Suggested fabrics: fabric names must have two words for 1 mark: fibre content e.g. cotton and construction e.g. twill; gabardine; denim; plain weave, polyester fleece (acceptable answers: cotton cambric; poly/cotton gabardine; cotton denim, etc) [4] (ii) With reasons for choice: cotton gabardine: hardwearing fabric a good choice for school uniform; cotton denim: fashionable strong fabric suitable for trousers; cotton/polyester poplin: easycare fabric suitable for school uniform shirt or young child s dress; polyester twill: hardwearing pleated (permanent) fabric suitable for school sports shorts; any other suitable fabric, with appropriate reason. Vague reasons not allowed without examples relating to garment or use. 1 mark for each reason; give credit for reasons even if part (i) is incomplete. Up to 4 reasons [4] (c) Answer could include: lengthen a skirt or dress by unpicking hem and adding a ribbon or bias tape or new fabric or fabric from a different item; tucks; a larger skirt could have pleats introduced and waistband reduced to make it a smaller item for a younger child; a pair of trousers which have worn knee areas, could be shortened and made into shorts, by cutting off the lower part and making a new hem; a jacket could have sleeves lengthened by adding more fabric to make cuffs and recycled buttons could be added for decoration; patchwork; appliqué to cover worn areas; remove sleeves to make a waist coat; any other suitable alteration; labelled diagrams and notes to be included, showing the main stages of how to carry out or work the alteration. Up to 2 marks for each correct suggestion and explanation [6] [Total: 18]

8 Page 8 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper 4 (a) With nap: fabric that has a texture or design that must run in one direction on the finished garment; fabrics with a nap can look a different colour depending on which way it is held; more fabric may be needed to cut all pieces; the pattern pieces/templates may need to be arranged so that the top of each piece faces the same way on the fabric; corduroy type fabrics, velvets and one way designs are usually with nap; use: pattern layout for a jacket using cotton velveteen fabric. Without nap: fabric may be plain or have an all over pattern/design so pattern pieces/templates can be arranged in the most economical way; the pattern pieces/templates can be upside down or turned at 180 to fit together; use: pattern layout for a skirt using a plain fabric such as cotton denim. Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark for each point, up to 4 marks [4] (b) Clip curves: curved edges along armhole edges or neckline edges need to be clipped to allow the fabric to fit well along curved parts of the body, so curves need to be clipped to allow this to happen; the seam allowance is clipped up to three quarters of the way through in order to allow this; e.g. princess line seams need to be clipped; concave and convex curves clipped differently. Trim means to cut away the fabric altogether for example, to remove fabric at a corner such as on a collar; this will remove bulk, or unwanted fabric to give a flat finish. Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark for each point, up to 4 marks. [4] (c) Top stitching is usually machine stitching or hand stitched running stitch which can be seen on the right side of the fabric; the stitching is longer than would normally be used for seam construction, so stitch setting of 4 or longer would be used; the stitching is usually close to the edge or can be 6mm from the edge; top stitching can be used on a patch pocket or the edge of the collar; thicker top thread used e.g. button hole twist; holds layers in place and prevents rolling. Under-stitching is along the edge of the fabric but is not normally seen on the right side of the fabric; it is carried out before a collar or waist facing is completed; the stitching is close to the seam or join and is usually stitched through the seam allowance plus the facing layer of fabric (three layers in all). Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark for each point, up to 4 marks [4]

9 Page 9 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (d) Tacking is temporary hand stitching used to hold fabric together before permanent stitching is carried out; various types of tacking, such as even tacking and diagonal tacking; the stitch can be used to hold pockets on a pair of trousers together before the machine stitching is carried out; uses continuous thread. Tailor s tacks is also a temporary stitching which marks various points on the fabric before permanent machining is carried out; e.g. if darts are to be stitched, tailor s tacks will show the position of the stitching; the tailor s tacks are removed once the permanent stitching has been carried out; tailor s tacks show matching points e.g. pocket onto a garment; made individually, have loops which are cut. Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark for each point, up to 6 marks [6] [Total: 18] 5 (a) (i) To stiffen; to strengthen; to keep its shape; to stop it stretching; to hide the side seams if voile is used (transparent fabric so seam allowances will show through) 1 mark for each point, up to 2 marks [2] (ii) Iron-on interfacing: trim seam allowances; place adhesive side against wrong side of fabric; use a hot iron and pressing cloth; iron until fused together; Sew-in interfacing: pin and tack pieces together with interfacing on wrong side of fabric; machine sew, remove tacking, then trim seam allowances after machining; Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark for each point, up to 2 marks [2] (b) (i) Prepare the yoke section by stitching together the front and back pieces at the shoulder seam; place right sides of fabric together; pin first, then tack and machine along the seam allowance of 1.5 cm; remove tacking, press the seam open; do not neaten the seam because it will be enclosed later in the process. Notes and labelled diagrams to be included. 1 mark each point up to 4 marks [4] (ii) Gather the main body of the top, by sewing two rows of gathers, using the largest straight stitch on the machine and the rows should be 6mm apart; place the right sides of yoke to right sides of lower top together, pin at balance marks and seams; pull up gathers to fit the yoke, make sure gathers are even, pin, tack and then machine along the seam allowance; remove tacking; do not neaten the edges as these will be enclosed later in the process. 1 mark each point up to 4 marks [4]

10 Page 10 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (iii) Place the yoke lining to yoke at neck edge only with right sides together; match the seams and any balance marks; machine lining to yoke; clip curves; fold under the seam allowance if fabric is thick it may be necessary to trim away and clip some of the seam allowance before the fabric is turned under; pin and tack the layers together and hand stitch using hemming stitch, along the seam line so that all layers are secure; remove tacking and press. 1 mark for each point, up to 6 marks [6] [Total: 18] 6 (a) Show warp and weft threads, true cross and selvedge; place warp thread along a weft thread so that the fabric forms a diagonal line; this diagonal line is the true cross at 45 degrees from warp and weft; using a ruler and tailor s chalk, draw a line along true cross (ironed as a crease using warp and weft threads as guidance); decide on width of crossway strip; measure from the diagonal line (e.g. 6 cm) and draw lines parallel to the first line, so that all are the same width. It is acceptable for candidates to show how to lay on a paper pattern. Diagrams to be labelled and show the use of stripes. 1 mark for each correct point up to 4 marks [4] (b) Using the pre cut strip, place right sides together along the short edges; this will be the warp/weft threads; there should be a small triangle of fabric at both ends overlapping; pin, tack and machine 6mm from the raw edge; remove tacking and press the seam open; remove the small triangles; join the next strip to the first to make sure the strip is long enough for edge to be stitched. Diagrams to be labelled and show the use of stripes. 1 mark for each correct point up to 4 marks [4] (c) (i) Make sure the seams are pressed open; it may make it easier to attach if the raw edges are pressed towards the centre of the strip, so that it is similar to purchased bias binding; fold in 6mm along each long edge toward the wrong side; place right sides together, matching any seams; pin and tack 6mm from the raw edge; machine along 6mm and remove tacking. Fold other side of crossway strip right over the raw edge so that the whole strip is on the wrong side of the fabric; press; pin and tack in place, making sure the raw edge is turned in; hand stitch using slip hemming, make sure the thread is a matching colour; remove tacking and press lightly. Diagrams to be labelled and show the use of stripes. 1 mark for each correct point up to 5 marks [5]

11 Page 11 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (ii) Make sure the seams are pressed open; it may make it easier to attach if the raw edges are pressed towards the centre of the strip, so that it is similar to purchased bias binding; fold in 6mm along each edge toward the wrong side; place right sides together, matching any seams; pin and tack 6mm from the raw edge; machine along 6mm and remove tacking. Fold the binding so that half is visible on both sides of the curved edge; fold in the raw edge, pin and tack in place; hand stitch using hemming stitch; make sure the hand stitching is worked through double fabric/through the machine stitching; remove tacking and press lightly. Or machine on wrong side first, top stitch on right side after folding; any other suitable method. Diagrams to be labelled and show the use of stripes. 1 mark for each correct point up to 4 marks [5] [Total: 18] 7 (a) (i) Sketch to show the yoke section; any suitable design on the yoke; labelling should indicate type of traditional work e.g. stem stitch, herringbone stitch, satin stitch, etc; labelling should be correct for the stitch chosen. 1 mark for each correct sketch/label, up to 2 marks [2] (ii) Machine stitching can be decorative automatic stitched e.g. satin stitches in triangle shapes/or straight stitch patterns e.g. flowers; could also have free machining to make a design. 1 mark for each correct sketch/label, up to 2 marks [2] (b) (i) Sketches showing the main stages of how the decorative technique is to be carried out; e.g. hand stitches should show: how to start the stitch off; needle position; how to work the stitch; how to finish off the stitch correctly. Diagrams and notes to be included. 1 mark for each correct point in the correct order [4] (ii) Sketches showing the main stages of machine settings, preparation of the fabric (e.g. marking position); starting/ finishing threads/stitches. Diagrams and notes to be included. 1 mark for each correct point in the correct order [4]

12 Page 12 Mark Scheme: Teachers version Syllabus Paper (c) Equipment could include: machine needle type/size (could be fine if fabric is fine/thin); unpicker (e.g. for removing tacking threads); small scissors (embroidery) to trim fabric/threads; pins (to hold fabric together); tailor s chalk (to mark position of machine stitching); embroidery hoop; embroidery machine or sewing machine; any other suitable equipment. 1 mark for each correct point; 1 mark for equipment, 1 mark for reason [6] [Total: 18]