Operation Manual K
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1 Operation Manual K Please read these instructions completely before using this tool. By reading all the instructions you will get the maximum benefit and the best solder/welded joints. The K is designed to operate with a 12-Volt battery or a resistance solder power supply with a minimum of 900 watts. We do not recommend the old style Rebuilders Supply Power Supply #512 with the chicken wire cover or the Triton Hot Lips for use with the K or K as they are not powerful enough to make a good weld joint. K Handle w/leads K Handle Only With our newly designed K Silver Solder Tool, you are now able to silver solder ground brushes to steel end frames using a filler metal and flux. It is also helpful to always think of stacking the weld or making a sandwich of your weld for example: the top bun would be the copper or steel, the filling would be the flux and the bottom bun would be copper or steel. The K is supplied with the following sample materials to allow for practice: 1. S Solder, approx melting point 480 degrees Fahrenheit 2. R Ribbon Silver Solder, approx. melting point 1300 degrees Fahrenheit We suggest using L Flux, not supplied. In Case Silver Soldering! vensel7@comcast.net Web Site: venselenterprises.com
2 The K Silver Soldering Tool has UNLIMITED ELECTRODE POSTIONS, see examples below: Web Site: venselenterprises.com
3 Initial Hook-Up & Basic Operation Instructions: 1 Connect the 2 power cables to your resistance power supply or to the foot switch in the case of battery powered operations or Miller Welder. These instructions are for a Resistance Power Supply. 2 Make sure the connections are tight and if necessary, cut open the eyelet. 3 Decide the temperature range of the connection you will be making. For solder with a melting point below 480 degrees Fahrenheit, use Low or Medium, A to B or B to C. For silver solder with a melting point of 1300 degrees Fahrenheit, use Hi, A to C. We recommend using Silver Solder for all starter connections. 4 Clamp parts to be connected together and activate the foot switch. Keep the heat in the weld joint by cycling the foot switch, if necessary. Practice Makes All The Difference: We recommend cutting up a field coil and practicing making connections. This is easier if flux is used. After you have make several good joints this way, you will be ready to move on to you money making job. Helpful Hint: For soldering Copper to Aluminum, we recommend using A Liquid Flux. 1 Lightly coat the area to be soldering with a thin film of the liquid flux. 2 Apply heat away from the flux and when the flux starts to smoke, apply the solder. This is called Tinning and it is a good idea to tin the aluminum surface and the copper surface. 3 Now hold the 2 tinned surfaces together and apply heat and you will have created a great connection. vensel7@comcast.net Web Site: venselenterprises.com
4 Q & A: What supplies power to the soldering handle? There is more than one way to provide power for the soldering handle. You can use a Resistance Power Supply that is rated at 900 Watts or more, a Miller 2.5Kw Spot Welder or a 12V Battery with a foot switch. W Z Foot Switch Miller Tips (for battery operation only) What other jobs can the K help with in the rebuilding process? The K can de-solder, solder, silver solder, connect brushes to end frames, heat a bearing surface for bearing installation and much more. The electrodes are not getting hot, (turn red on the end), Why? The connections to the power supply are not correct or tight. The electrode could be dirty and if this is the case it is recommended to sand or file the electrode until it is smooth. The electrodes get red hot halfway up the electrode, but the filler silver solder does not melt? Clean the electrodes and recycle the foot switch on/off, on/off so the heat is directed toward the weld and not up the electrode. The silver soldered joint pulls apart very easily? There is not enough flux or filler material in the joint. The Alloy Steel Electrode sticks to the brush lead? The surface of the electrode is to rough, file or sand it with a find grit sand paper to smooth it out. There is a poor connection between the Electrode and the Holder? Clean the connection and apply S Copper Grease & Lubricant. The weld joint is too big? Decrease the amount of flux and filler material. The silver solder will not stick to the surface that has been pre-soldered? Remove all the solder or move the connection point. The aluminum will not stick to the copper surface? Clean the are better and use a non-petroleum spray degreaser. Then re-coat with a thin layer of flux. vensel7@comcast.net Web Site: venselenterprises.com
5 Q & A: The weld joint is not the desired size? To make the joint smaller, use less flux in a smaller area and to make the joint larger, use more flux in a larger area. Should I cut the solder or silver solder to the correct length before making my solder or weld connection? No, it is easier to hold and there is less waste if you use the soldering right from the roll. Just let it melt off. How clean is clean? For a good weld or solder joint, the surface must be absolutely clean. It can be sand blasted or cleaned with a wire brush and then it should be wiped with a non-petroleum base cleaner for that final clean. Can a solder or welded joint be tested? Yes, by using a Micro Ohm Meter, approximately ohms per meter. How fast can I make joint using a battery as my power supply? It only takes a few seconds once you get the hang of it. Practice is required before making any production welds. What do I do if there is to much flux around the joint area after the weld joint is made? Always clean off any excess flux and neutalize all flux. Why can t I use Acid Flux? We recommend never using an acid flux because if the acid is not neutralized it will cause corosion problems down the road. The electrode does not fit the surface location where I want to make my joint? Replace the carbon or steel electrode with one that does fit so you get the best connection of electrode to desired joint and joint size. Which electrode should be in contact with the copper? Use the steel electrode because it will not stick to the copper wire brush leads if it is kept smooth. Remember the more practice the better. How long should the electrodes be? The shorter the better. The lower the resistance the better the heat build up in the weld joint. How do I install a set of cables on the welding handle? Use a welding cable with a maximum OD of 0.327, install an eyelet on both ends of both cables, insert the cable through the slot in the frame (looking at the cable end of the tool) run it over the spring and to the connection point on the negative side and tighten. For the other side, run the cable under the first one installed and connect. Can this tool be tested? Yes with the leads not attached to any power source, connect an Ohm Meter across the copper and steel electrode and the reading must be zero. If not, re-insulate the cable or replace them. vensel7@comcast.net Web Site: venselenterprises.com
6 Service Parts K Cable Set 2. K /2 Carbon Electrode & Holder 3. K /2 Alloy Steel Electrode & Holder 4. K /2 Carbon Electrode 5. K /2 Alloy Steel Electrode 6. K /8 Allen Head Hex Set Screws 7. K /4 x 20 x 1/2 7/16 Hex Head Bolt & Washers, Cable Bolt Set 8 K /4 x 20 x 1 7/16 Hex Head Aluminum Bar to Electrode Holder Set 9. K Pivot Pin & Lock 10. K Spring 11. K (2) Aluminum Rods 12. K Insulation Kit & Hardware (10 pieces) 13. K Negative Aluminum Rod Holder (6 pieces) 14. K Jaw Set (2 pieces) Options: K Handle Only-(no cables) K /4 Carbon Electrode & Holder K /4 Carbon Electrode K /8 Carbon Electrode & Holder K /8 Carbon Electrode- W Z Foot Switch G Standard Miller Tips vensel7@comcast.net Web Site: venselenterprises.com
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