1 Fit an eyelet through the loop you have made, adjusting the LED leg as necessary, so it fits closely to the loop

Transcription

1 1 Fit an eyelet through the loop you have made, adjusting the LED leg as necessary, so it fits closely to the loop 2 Use the Narrow Nosed Pliers to shape the end of the LED leg into a circular or triangular loop Squeeze the 3 Turn the LED 4 handles of the over, holding Crimper together onto the as tightly as you eyelet. Place can. The eyelet the eyelet into needs to be the Crimper as completely shown here. It crushed onto the will only work LED leg loop this way

2 1 Cut two pieces of Copper Track to 2 the sizes shown here. Peel & stick. The holes are made with this part of the eyelet Crimper 3 Use a Try Square to draw a line at 40mm. Your HIPS should now look like this. 4

3 Place the HIPS under the yellow guard at 90 degrees to it Ensure that the pencil line is placed exactly over the hot element wire Leave in place to heat, until the HIPS is easily bent into shape.

4 This is the angle you want to bend your HIPS to; approximately 30 degrees. ny flatter and you will have great difficulty getting your needle into the back set of holes. ny steeper and it could look lumpy in your finished bag HOW THE SWITCH WORKS Bend B Points B & C will touch together when the HIPS is bent over B C C The Positive current enters the Switch at () by the Conductive Thread being sewn (3 times) over the short piece of Copper Track, to make a good connection. The Positive current can continue on to power the rest of the circuit by the Conductive Thread leaving at (C), but only when the long piece of Copper Track on the (/B) side is bent over to touch together the (B) and (C) points.

5 1. Sew on the Battery Holder, with tacking thread. 2. Sew on your first LED with tacking thread. 3. Cut a short piece of conductive thread and tie a Fat Knot in the end. 4. Sew from underneath up through the - side of the Battery Holder (). Make sure you sew around the circle 3 times, to make a good contact. Keep your stitching as tight as possible. 5. Sew along to the - (flat sided) side of the LED at (B), sew around the eyelet 3 times and then tie off your thread. 6. Cut a piece of conductive thread and tie a Fat Knot in the end. 7. Sew from underneath up through the + side of the LED eyelet (C). Make sure you sew around the eyelet 3 times, to make a good contact. Keep your stitching as tight as possible. B C

6 8. Sew along to where you want the switch to be positioned. Leave the rest of your thread hanging out, as shown at D. 9. Cut a short piece of conductive thread and tie a Fat Knot in the end. 10. Now sew from underneath up through the + side of the Battery Holder (E). Make sure you sew around the circle 3 times, to make a good contact. Keep your stitching as tight as possible. 11. Sew along to within 20mm of the thread you left hanging in the previous step., shown at F below. Leave this thread hanging too. E B F 20mm Gap D C 2 Hanging Threads

7 Insert your Coin Cell Battery. Touch the two hanging threads together and see if your LED lights up. If it doesn t, then re-check that all your threads are connected properly, as per the steps given. Plus, make sure all your threads are as tight as possible. Sew the two hanging threads separately through the two sets of holes in your switch. Make sure that you sew over the copper track (3 times) as shown. Done! In Progress

8 When you have sewn around one of the sets of holes (and over the Copper Track), tie the thread off on the back. Make sure all your threads are as tight as possible. One side of switch Other side of switch Important DO NOT connect the two sides of the switch together when sewing the threads into the holes. No thread connection between the two. Correct. Sewing through the two holes at the back of the switch is a bit tricky, but you just need to angle your needle carefully. Make sure all your threads are as tight as possible.

9 This is the direction in which the electricity is flowing, in order to light your LED, once the switch is closed. Test that your switch now works. The LED should light up when you press it down. If it doesn t, then check that all your threads are tight and go back over the instructions above. sk a peer to check your work. See if between you, you can identify what needs changing.

10 This () is the area you have just completed. Now you need to add the rest of your LEDS. Start by tacking them down where they need to be positioned. ll the Negative sides (B) of the LEDs below are faced towards the Battery Holder. ll the Positives are facing away. It is very important that you check your LEDs are organised in this way. It will make it much easier to connect them successfully. B

11 1. Cut a piece of conductive thread and tie a Fat Knot in the end. 2. Sew from underneath up through the - side of the LED eyelet (). Make sure you sew around the eyelet 3 times, to make a good contact. Keep your stitching as tight as possible. 3. Sew across to the - side of the next LED (B). Sew around the eyelet 3 times. Then do the same to the next LED, until the - side of LL your LEDs are connected. If your LEDs are spaced more than about 20mm away from each other, sew through the circuit board fabric every 15mm. B

12 4. Repeat step 3 above, but now on the + side of your first LED (), following onto the others. You have now created a Parallel Circuit connection for all your LEDs. Test that they now light up as well. If they don t light up, check all your LEDs are the right way round and that your stitching is tight and correct. Go back carefully over the previous steps. sk a peer to see if they can spot what might be wrong.

13 The stitching on the back of this circuit board fabric shows how the Conductive Thread is connecting each of the components together. So, to recap: is the Battery Holder, which has both the Positive and Negative connections. B is the Switch, which passes just the Positive current through when you press it closed. Remember there must not be any Conductive Thread between the two + points. Otherwise your LEDs will stay on permanently. C is the end of your Parallel Circuit and you do NOT connect the threads here either B + - C +

14 SUCCESS!..and that is all there is to it. Birchwood High School January 2015