Specialty protein fibres in the New Zealand outdoor apparel market

Transcription

1 In Natural fibres in Australasia: Proceedings of the combined (NZ and AUS) conference of The Textile Institute, Dunedin April 2009, Wilson, C. A. and Laing, R. M. Editors. p Dunedin, New Zealand: The Textile Institute (NZ). Specialty protein fibres in the New Zealand outdoor apparel market R. R. VAN AMBER 1, T. KOSHIBA 2 AND C. A. WILSON 1 1 University of Otago, PO Box 56, Dunedin 9054, New Zealand 2 Bunka Women's University, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo , Japan c.wilson@otago.ac.nz Abstract. The outdoor apparel market is an increasingly competitive one in which many companies use performance claims to differentiate products. At the same time, consumers are becoming more discerning about products that are marketed based on the physical properties of the fibre (often attributed to the fabric/garment). Protein fibre products are a popular choice for the New Zealand (NZ) performance apparel market. NZ's importance as a sheep and wool producing country internationally and the dominance of wool in the NZ market means that NZ consumers are very familiar with the performance properties of wool garments. However, while wool particularly Merino dominates the NZ market, in recent years other protein fibre products such as those manufactured from silk and silk blends have been used for outdoor apparel. Use of silk in the niche market of performance apparel shifts silk away from its more traditional use as a luxury fibre. Such a change in application presents challenges for manufacturers, retailers and consumers of silk products. Not only does there appear to be little published research regarding the properties of silk and silk blend fabrics used for production of niche performance apparel but there is also a lack of knowledge about the performance and care of silk knit garments cleaned using conventional laundering methods. In NZ and internationally apparel companies are legally required to substantiate product claims. In New Zealand the Fair Trading Act (1986) and the Consumer Guarantees Act (1993) require goods be safe, serviceable, and fit for the intended purpose. These legislative requirements enable consumers to seek a remedy, from either the supplier or the manufacturer (as appropriate) should obligations or guarantees under these Acts fail to be met. Such legal requirements and a quality focus provide an impetus for improving understanding of garment properties. Correct care, maintenance, and performance characteristics are of particular concern when manufacturing high quality niche products for the performance apparel market segment. To meet legal and market needs an understanding of performance characteristics is needed. Research may be undertaken as part of a companies research and development programme or as sponsored co-operative research between independent research organisations such as universities and the industry. Such relationships can be beneficial to both parties. A collaborative study between Clothing and Textile Sciences, University of Otago, and a niche product provider, will be described. Keywords: silk, wool, outdoor apparel, performance properties, legal requirements 1. Introduction The use of research as an advertising and marketing approach was developed by David Ogilvy in the United States in the mid 20 th century (Gross 2009). This technique of providing consumers with technical product information has revolutionised how goods and services are merchandised and sold. In parallel with the development of new marketing methods, lifestyle changes starting early in the 20 th century have resulted in greater emphasis being placed on outdoor leisure activities, particularly sport (Mills 1990). Commensurate with this leisure focus and the increased use of technical and pseudo technical language in marketing demand for garments suitable for outdoor sporting activities has increased. A design revolution has occurred where product is developed with the wearer s needs (be they fashion, or function) in mind (Mills 1990; Ruckman 2005). Today the outdoor lifestyle segment is a wellestablished market category. To compete effectively provision of technical information pertaining to a product s performance properties is now a fundamental means of product differentiation. The main foci of innovation for performance apparel are performance and function (Muran 2003). For example, some outdoor sportswear products are marketed as clothing systems, where the systems are comprised of a number of components such as a base layer, a mid layer, and an outer layer (Figure 1). In New Zealand, garments are commonly marketed as layering pieces, with each layer often claimed to perform specific functions (e.g. base layer is designed to wick moisture away and delay the onset of chilling) (Icebreaker 2006). In turn, consumers are demanding increasingly more detail about product properties e.g. 'wickability', 'breathability', thermal resistance, water vapour and air permeability, drying time etc. 1.1 Natural fibres and outdoor performance apparel Woollen cloth was produced in New Zealand as early as 1848, and has since had a long history of use in association with outside wear (Laing and Wilson In Press). Since the 1990s wool fibre product has been the leading fibre in the developing 'natural' outdoor sportswear market 49

2 (Mills 1990). Marketing of wool and wool products originating specifically from New Zealand (and branding of products as such, e.g. Fernmark, Merino NZ etc.) occurred from approximately the mid 1990s coinciding with development of alternative sources of protein fibre such as alpaca, mohair, possum etc. (Laing and Wilson In Press). FIGURE 1. Next to skin layer, photo courtesy of Silkbody In New Zealand and Australia, in contrast to wool s traditional work-wear and daily use associations, silk fibre has historically been in short supply. Silk has been viewed as a luxury fibre prized among other things for its lustre and smooth handle. In the outdoor performance apparel market silk is a comparatively new entrant. A review of the scientific literature reveals much is known about characteristics, care requirements and performance properties of wool fibre and products. However, there appears to be a deficit of information about the characteristics and performance properties of silk. This lack of published material most likely reflects the dominance of the silk industry by countries such as China and Japan. Japanese language journals such as the International Journal of Wild Silkmoths and Silk are devoted to the silk industry and provide a source of information about properties, albeit in a difficult to access form. Outside of Asia and parts of Europe the challenge associated with marketing silk is increased, particularly in relation to the use of silk fibre in performance apparel, due to the high cost and scarcity of silk and a lack of information about its properties and care. An additional challenge arises due to silk s close association with apparel such as expensive eveningwear which often carry dryclean only labels thus perpetuating the belief that silk products are difficult to care for. Lack of experience with domestic methods of caring for silk fabrics is also associated with comments by consumers that they are concerned about their own ability to launder silk successfully. Thus the introduction of silk into the outdoor sportswear market as a performance fibre presents challenges for i) consumers who seek to launder and maintain their silk garments, and ii) manufacturers who seek to produce quality silk products and to use the inherent characteristics of the fibre in marketing. 1.2 Marketing of niche protein fibre products Wool and silk are both protein fibres (i.e. derived from animals). In New Zealand, wool is generally accepted as having appropriate properties for use in outdoor recreation apparel. Due to its many unique properties, wool fibre, yarn and fabric have also been subjected to considerable research scrutiny (e.g. Menkart and Bray 1963; Kulkarni 1975; Simpson 2002; Johnson, Wood et al. 2003). An evaluation of marketing information used to support performance claims reveals a tendency to assume that all protein fibres have similar properties. However, direct comparison of protein fibres where compounding effects of variations in yarn, fabric structure, and finishing processes etc. are minimised, is rare and the different chemical make-ups, structures and morphologies within the protein fibre category suggests performance characteristics associated with the different fibre types may also vary. Additionally although the market segment for silk and wool performance products may overlap, differences in user requirements are also likely. For example, silk garments may provide an alternative for those consumers who wish to wear natural fibre products, but who are reluctant to wear wool due to a wool 'sensitivity' (i.e. a belief they are allergic to wool); a dislike of the handle of wool (e.g. prickle, roughness); and /or for those who do not wish to purchase wool on ethical grounds (due to e.g. mulesing, etc.). 1.3 Product requirements and the market Clothing and textiles are increasingly a global business in which companies must meet the legal requirements of all markets they trade in be they domestic or international. For example, advertising that is misleading or deceives consumers is prohibited under New Zealand and also European Union law (The New Zealand Government 1986; European Commission 2005). Within the EU products must also conform with the contract of sale, meaning if a product does not conform to the agreement made with the seller at the time of sale, it can be returned to the point of sale for repair or replacement for up to two years (European Commission 2005). Similar legal requirements exist in other markets such as New Zealand, Australia and the United States. In New Zealand, the Consumer Guarantees Act 1993 specifies a range of guarantees that mean every unit of the distribution chain - 50

3 manufacturer or importer, wholesale, retailer have a direct obligation to the consumer (The New Zealand Government 1993; Ministry of Consumer Affairs 2008). Consumer and product legislation also requires product claims be substantiated with evidence and/or research (e.g. Directive 85/374/EEC on product liability, EU; Federal Trade Commission regulations, USA). In New Zealand, the Fair Trading Act 1986 focuses primarily on anyone engaged in trade; promotes product safety; and provides for the disclosure of consumer information relating to the supply of goods and services (The New Zealand Government 1986; Commerce Commission 2007). Such legal obligations place the onus on companies who wish to use performance characteristics as a marketing tool to be able to back up any claims with technical evidence. Additionally, given consumers in different markets may also have different understanding of commonly used terms (e.g. accepted wash temperature; what is 'warm'?) research may be needed to ensure instructions such as care labelling is appropriate for the fibre type and the target market. Based on marketing claims and quality expectations, apparel distributors, retailers and consumers expect that fabrics and apparel products will perform as per the suppliers claims e.g. that products will keep the wearer warm when wet; wick moisture away from the skin surface; be 'breathable' (i.e. air and moisture permeable), etc. and that garments will also perform over time e.g. that they will maintain size and shape; retain colour; and will not pill etc. Therefore, product research and testing is important not only because companies have a legal obligation to substantiate marketing claims, but also because of the need to maintain consistent batch quality during production (Carr, Wilson et al. In Press). 2. Research and testing Despite the use of performance claims to market products and the need to ensure consistent batch and performance quality, product research may exceed the expertise of in-house staff in many companies and/or be too costly to undertake independently. Commissioning of test results from specialist testing houses is one means of obtaining inspection, testing, certification and verification services in order to ensure products, services and systems meet predetermined requirements (e.g. AgResearch and SGS in New Zealand, CSIRO in Australia, and Intertek worldwide). The ability to effectively utilise such information will also depend on in-house expertise and the aims of the company in seeking the information. Collaborative research relationships with educational institutions such as the University of Otago and in some cases collaborations between Industry groups, Testing Houses and the University is another way of maximising resources to the benefit of all factions. Such collaborations may involve donation of material, joint applications for funding e.g. TIF, and/or sponsorship of student research projects. Whatever form the collaborative relationship takes, a balance is needed between the commercial needs of the company/industry, the research and teaching requirements of the University and the educational/thesis needs of the student. Such projects may also require a longer time frame than is needed if the work was to be undertaken as a paid consultancy commission. 3. Examples of collaborative research case studies The research outlined in this paper arose as a out of an ongoing working relationship between Paradox Products and the Clothing and Textile Sciences Department at the University of Otago. Paradox Products is a Dunedin based company that offers a specialty range of silk and silk blend products, which are sold in high-end outdoors wear and fashion outlets. The marketing of the Silkbody label was developed around a range of silk fabrics in silk and natural fibre blends the development and marketing of which draws on published research where available. As a means of enhancing understanding of the physical and performance characteristics of the specific fabrics making up the Silkbody range, Emily Cooper, (Company Director and Designer of the collection), and David Cooper (Director) had previously donated fabrics for use in a research studies initiated by staff in Clothing and Textile Sciences examining performance characteristics of commonly available wool and silk fabrics and the effect of the fibre and fabric on behaviour of dry damp and wet materials (Wilson and Koshiba 2007). While donation of materials for use in research is likely to generate data useful for marketing purposes the primary focus of such work is a research question of interest to the academic community. Such investigations are not necessarily consistent with immediate research and development needs of the industry or specific companies. This initial study arose as a result of the academic interests of a visiting researcher, to Clothing and Textile Sciences. A project proposal was developed, the aims of which were discussed with the Directors of Silkbody and after consideration by both parties a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) developed. This MOU specified the contributions to be made by each party, included an outline (and timeline) for the research, and facilitated communication and discussion of the topic. Paradox Products 51

4 supplied all the materials for the research, at no cost (Table 1a). Conversely, the University created and presented a report of results to Paradox Products at the conclusion of the project. This initial investigation is an example of independent research published under the auspices of the University of Otago with academic staff engaged in the project maintaining the right to present at seminars etc. and to publish in journals, subject to written approval from Paradox Products prior to any publication. Consistent with the MOU agreement such approval can not be unreasonably withheld and specifically permits publication of results thus maintaining the independence of the University with respect to publication of research findings. The current study reflects development of proposed research activities to be undertaken as part of thesis requirements for the Degree of Masters of Consumer and Applied Sciences, in Clothing and Textile Sciences, University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. The student concerned was employed by Paradox Products and was interested in identifying an applied research topic. Consequently development of the research question evolved over a number of meetings during which project aims and outcomes were discussed by the Directors of Paradox Products, University staff and the student concerned. Following agreement a MOU was developed by the Research Office of the University which addressed as outlined earlier the issues of intellectual property, contributions to be made by the various parties and the right to present results in seminars, thesis and publications. This agreement was drafted and signed prior to commencement of the work. The objectives of this work were to: i) review properties of select specialty protein fibre knit fabrics, ii) develop a standard testing regime enabling fabrics to be characterised and compared over time iii) improve understanding of physical and performance properties of the Silkbody fabrics, and iv) enhance ability to compare and contrast products in the Silkbody range. The fabrics examined in this work are all a part of the current season product offering and consist of (Table 1b): As part of thesis development the literature was reviewed and appropriate methods of investigation developed. Consistent with the aim of this work TABLE 1. Fabric descriptions Fabric Fibre content Knit structure Mass g/m 2 Thickness mm a Puresilk TM 100% silk (filament) single jersey Puresilk TM 100% silk (filament) 1x1 rib Silkspun TM 72% silk/15% cotton/13% wool single jersey SilkSideIn TM 46% silk/54% wool single jersey b Puresilk TM 100% spun silk single jersey Silkspun TM 72% silk/15% cotton/13% wool single jersey Cellular TM 80% silk/20% wool jacquard properties investigated were those related to product performance and consumer quality expectations, with the key properties identified influenced by Paradox Products target market of requirements for physical performance properties such as thermal resistance, behaviour when wet, heat transfer, drying time; and key consumer performance properties such as dimensional stability to washing, spirality, and colour change (Table 2). The investigations reported here have improved the specific descriptions of the product properties and enhanced the ability of consumers to evaluate similarities and differences that exist in the product range (Table 3). As a result, comparison among and between products is possible. Industry supported research is of benefit to the University and Students because such relationships enhance ability to: i) develop projects of specific interest to target markets using currently available fabrics and garments. ii) access established manufacturing relationships and thus obtain supply of research fabrics in specified structures and with control of processing e.g. dyed and non-dyed fabrics were evaluated. From the perspective of companies such as Paradox Products, collaborations enhance access to data, results, and their interpretation. Such comparisons enhance consumers abilities to evaluate properties 52

5 TABLE 2. Selected properties and test methods Property Mass Thickness Regain Water vapour permeability (WVP) Liquid Absorptive Capacity (LAC) Thermal conductance Drying time Dimensional stability Test method BS EN 12127:1998 Textiles Fabrics Determination of mass per unit area using small samples ISO 5084:1996 Textiles Determination of thickness of textiles "The ratio of the mass of moisture in a fabric to the oven-dry mass" (Denton and Daniels, 2002) BS 7209:1990 BS specification for water vapour permeable apparel fabrics BS EN ISO :2003 Textiles - Test methods for nonwovens - Part 6: Heat transfer ('dry' and 'wet' thermal resistance) ISO 11092:1993 Textiles - Physiological effects - Measurement of thermal and water-vapour resistance under steady-state conditions (sweating guarded-hotplate test) (and derived values for warmth to mass and warmth to thickness ratios i.e. how warm the fabric would be if the weight (or thickness, as appropriate) were the same) Heat flow through of dry and wet fabrics Time to dry on a line; and time simulating drying while fabric/garment is worn (Laing, et al., 2007) ISO 6330: 2000(E) Textiles Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing Spirality ISO : 2005(E) Textiles Determination of spirality after laundering Part 2: Woven and knitted fabrics and make decisions based on their intended end use and actual data. One potential disadvantages for the collaborating company can be the time this type of collaborative project takes to complete. Development, testing, writing and examination of the thesis associated with the work is likely to be longer than required to undertake the work as a funded consultancy commission. Additionally theses and publications are public documents and while it is possible for access to a thesis to be restricted such an action is not the norm. More commonly commercial sensitivity and unfavourable outcomes are managed as a part of the publication process without breaching the independence of the University. 4. Conclusions Co-operative projects between a University and a company is ideal for those companies such as Paradox Products, who do not wish to develop their own research facilities, who are able to work with a more extended time line than would occur if research was commissioned, and who are willing to adapt their research objectives to also accommodate the needs of a student, and University. From the prospective of students and staff at the University the opportunity to address industry based research questions, use materials and resources utilised by industry and liaise with those activity working in the industry is invaluable. TABLE 3. Comparison of physical properties between selected fabrics Property Puresilk TM single Puresilk TM rib Silkspun TM SilksideIn TM jersey Resistance to dry heat transfer Resistance to wet heat transfer Insulation when fabric is wet Mass Thickness Water vapour permeability S S S S S S S Liquid absorption capacity S S S S S S S S S Drying on line Drying on body

6 5. Acknowledgements We acknowledge the donation of fabrics used in this work by Paradox Products Co. Ltd. 6. References Carr, D. J., Wilson, C. A., Niven, B. E. and Laing, R. M. In Press. Manufacturing parameters and the properties of knitted fabrics. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. Commerce Commission, Commerce commission website - overview. [Accessed: 28 October 2007]. European Commission Consumer protection in the European Union: Ten basic principles. In Protection, D.-G. f. H. a. C. (Ed.), European Communities: Gross, D., The Original mad man. Newsweek. [Accessed: Feb 22]. Icebreaker, Icebreaker - how icebreaker works. [Accessed: 8 November 2007]. Johnson, N. A. G., Wood, E. J., Ingham, P. E., McNeil, S. J. and McFarlane, I. D Wool as a technical fibre. Journal of the Textile Institute 94 (3): Kulkarni, V. G Chemical composition of kerateines from the orthocortex and paracortex of merino wool. Textile Research Journal 45 (110): Laing, R. M. and Wilson, C. A. In Press. New Zealand textiles and apparel sectors. In Eicher, J. B. (Ed.), Encyclopedia of world dress and fashion. Volume 7, Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific Islands, Oxford: Berg Publishers. Menkart, J. and Bray, R. J The morphology and physical properties of wool. In Wool Handbook, edited by Bergen, W. V. New York, London: Interscience Publishers, A division of John Wiley & Sons. Mills, J. H The development of wool products for the sportswear market. In Proceedings of the 8th International wool textile research conference, 5 Vol. Edited by Crawshaw, G. H Christchruch, New Zealand: Wool Research Organization of New Zealand (Inc.). Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Consumer info - Consumer Guarantees Act. ltygoods.html, Last updated: April [Accessed: August 6]. Muran, L Trends in the market for sports and other performance apparel. Textile Outlook International 104: Ruckman, J. E Water resistance and water vapour transfer. In Textiles in Sport, edited by Shishoo, R. Cambridge, England: Woodhead Publishing Ltd. Simpson, W. F Chemical processes for enhanced appearance and performance. In Wool: Science and Technology, edited by Simpson, W. S. and Crawshaw, G. H., Cambridge, England: Woodhead Publishing Limited. The New Zealand Government Fair Trading Act Wellington: New Zealand Government. The New Zealand Government Consumer Guarantees Act Wellington: New Zealand Government. Wilson, C. A. and Koshiba, T Properties of selected dry and wet silk and silk blend knitted fabrics. Commissioned Consultancy Report, Clothing and Textile Centre, Dunedin: University of Otago. 54