Thermal Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics

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1 Textile Research Journal Article Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics Abstract In this study, thermal properties of different cotton and Angora rabbit fiber blended fabrics were investigated. It is known that cotton fiber has good comfort properties and Angora rabbit fiber is a speciality fur fiber which possesses good softness, whiteness and warmth. The aim of this study was to combine the excellent characteristics of these fibers to produce knitted fabrics with better comfort properties. First, short staple yarns were spun from cotton and Angora rabbit fibers with different blend ratios in two different spinning systems. Then, 1 1 rib knitted fabrics were produced with these yarns and the thermal comfort parameters of fabrics were measured on Alambeta and Permetest devices. Finally, according to end use, the optimum ratios were analyzed. The results indicated that the increase of Angora fiber ratio in the fabric and the spinning system affected the thermal comfort properties. The statistical analyses showed that only the fabrics including 25 % of rabbit fiber generated a significant difference on these parameters. Besides, the fabrics knitted from ring yarns had a warmer feeling at first touch and provided more thermal insulation but less water vapor permeability than the fabrics knitted from open-end yarns. Nida Oglakcioglu, Pinar Celik, Tuba Bedez Ute, Arzu Marmarali 1 and Huseyin Kadoglu Department of Textile Engineering, Ege University, Izmir, Turkey Key words Angora rabbit fiber, knitted fabrics, short staple spinning, thermal comfort, warm-cool feeling With the development of textile technology, the requirement for fabrics is not only mechanical and dimensional properties but also thermal comfort properties. For this reason, it becomes necessary to benefit from the special characteristics of fibers for high levels of comfort by using fiber blends. In this study, our aim was to combine the high permeability properties of cotton and the high thermal properties of Angora rabbit fiber to produce knitted fabrics with better comfort properties. 1 Cotton remains by far the most important natural fiber of the 20th century. Still in the early 2000s, cotton represents 38 % of the fiber market [1]. Due to good handle and hygienic properties, it can be used next-to-skin. Addition- 1 Corresponding author: Department of Textile Engineering, Ege University, Izmir, Turkey. arzu.marmarali@ege.edu.tr Textile Research Journal Vol 79(10): DOI: / The Author(s), Reprints and permissions:

2 Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics N. Oglakcioglu et al. 889 TRJ ally, it has good water vapor and air permeability, so it is preferred for summer garments. Angora rabbit fiber has a good potential for producing textiles with special properties. Its production is the third largest animal fiber industry in the world following wool and mohair [2]. It is a fine animal fiber which is known for a smooth and lustrous surface. It is a speciality fur fiber and possesses anti-allergic properties and good softness and whiteness. It gives high insulation and a warmer feeling to garments and this is due to medulla structure in the core of fiber [3]. Therefore, Angora rabbit fibers are widely preferred in winter because of their good thermal properties. Very special products can be obtained by using a blend of Angora with cotton fibers. Comfort, which is defined as the absence of displeasure or discomfort or a neutral state compared to the more active state of pleasure, became the most important feature along with the development of textile technology [4]. Various researchers made investigations in order to increase comfort properties of garments. Greyson [5] and Havenith [6] mentioned that the heat and water vapor resistances increase with the increase of material thickness and air entrapped in the fabric. Hes explained the warmcool feeling, which is the first sensation, as thermal absorptivity [7]. He mentioned that to achieve the ideal clothing comfort, it is quite necessary to consider the end use of garment and suggested cotton yarns for hot days for a cool feeling and PES/wool yarns for cold days for a warm feeling. Pac et al. investigated the influence of fiber morphology, yarn and fabric structures on transient thermal properties and friction behavior [8]. They found that the contact interfacial area between skin and fabric is small for rough fabrics and more air is entrapped on a hairier fabric surface, so these fabrics give a warmer feeling. They also stated that structural roughness and warm-cool feelings of the fabrics change according to fiber type, yarn and fabric structure. Anand and Rebenciuc studied the manner in which the structure and some of its dimensional properties could affect the thermo-physiological comfort of some 1 1 and 2 2 rib knitted fabrics [9]. The results showed that the fabric structure and stitch density influence thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and relative water vapor permeability properties. Ozdil et al. investigated thermal properties of 1 1 rib fabrics knitted by using various yarns having different properties with all details [10]. It was observed that yarn properties like yarn count, yarn twist and combing process of cotton affect different thermal comfort properties of 1 1 rib knitted fabrics. As the yarn twist and yarn count increase, thermal resistance values decrease and water vapor permeability values increase. Ucar and Yilmaz studied the thermal properties of rib knitted fabrics and noted that the rib number and fabric density influence thermal properties [11]. Despite all the research regarding thermal comfort, there is no research regarding thermal properties of fabrics including Angora rabbit fibers. Materials and Methods 19.7 Tex short staple ring and open-end (OE) yarns with α tex = 3545 (α e = 3.7) were produced from Angora rabbit and cotton fibers. Yarns had four different fiber compositions: 100 % cotton, 5 % Angora/95 % cotton, 15 % Angora/85 % cotton and 25 % Angora/75 % cotton. It was not possible to try a higher percentage of Angora fibers, because of limitations of spinning process. Then, 1 1 rib structures were knitted using these yarns on a 28 gauges and 30 diameter Fouquet circular knitting machine in medium tightness value. In order to determine the medium tightness value, the possible tightest and the slackest fabrics were knitted and then the mean of these tightness values was calculated. The knitting process was completed with constant machine settings and the samples were kept under the standard atmospheric conditions for 24 hours for the relaxation. Alambeta instrument was used to measure thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and thermal absorptivity values [12, 13]. Relative water vapor permeability was measured on Permetest instrument working on similar skin model principle as given by the ISO [14]. All measurements were performed under the standard atmospheric conditions and they were repeated five times. Results and Discussion Evaluation of the test results was made using statistical software. To determine the statistical importance of the variations, ANOVA tests were applied. To deduce whether the parameters were significant or not, p values were examined. Ergun emphasized that if p value of a parameter is greater than 0.05 (p >.05), the parameter will not be important and should be ignored [15]. The thermal comfort values and statistical differences for different blend ratios of OE and ring yarns are given in Tables 1 and 2, respectively. In these tables, the mean values are marked with the letters a and b. Any levels marked by the same letter showed that they were not significantly different ( a shows the lowest value and b shows the highest value). Table 3 shows only statistical results for different spinning methods. Conductivity conductivity can be thought of as a flux of heat (energy per unit area per unit time) divided by a temperature gradient (temperature difference per unit length). For textile materials, still air in the fabric structure is the most important factor for conductivity value, as still air has the lowest thermal conductivity value compared to all fibers (λ air = 0.025).

3 TRJ 890 Textile Research Journal 79(10) Table 1 comfort properties of 1 1 rib fabrics for OE yarns. Blend ratios Fabric weight (g/m 2 ) Thickness (mm) conductivity (W/m K) resistance (m 2 K/W) absorptivity (W s 1/2 / m 2 K) Relative water vapor permeability Porosity Uster yarn hairiness (H) 100 % cotton 150,00 1,12 a 0,0448 b 0,0252 a 102,60 b 46,67 b 91,07 a 4,34 a 5 % Angora 95 % cotton 15 % Angora 85 % cotton 25 % Angora 75 % cotton 146,50 1,14 a 0,0452 b 0,0262 a 101,25 b 45,15 b 91,74 a 4,41 a 147,00 1,10 a 0,0426 a 0,0264 a 96,80 ab 44,64 b 91,15 a 4,30 a 150,70 1,18 b 0,0410 a 0,0292 b 94,00 a 43,48 a 91,27 a 4,77 b Table 2 comfort properties of 1 1 rib fabrics for Blend ratios Fabric weight (g/m 2 ) Thickness (mm) conductivity (W/m K) resistance (m 2 K/W) absorptivity (W s 1/2 / m 2 K) Relative water vapor permeability Porosity Uster yarn hairiness (H) 100 % cotton 145,50 1,22 a 0,0430 b 0,0288 a 91,60 b 35,67 b 92,11 a 6,95 a 5 % Angora 95 % cotton 15 % Angora 85 % cotton 25 % Angora 75 % cotton 141,70 1,21 a 0,0413 a 0,0288 a 90,25 b 35,71 b 91,94 a 7,09 a 151,00 1,26 a 0,0404 a 0,0306 a 89,50 ab 35,17 b 91,65 a 6,74 a 169,00 1,40 b 0,0400 a 0,0344 b 85,40 a 34,17 a 91,49 a 7,69 b Table 3 Statistical comparison of OE and ring spinning methods. Parameter F values P values (significance) Yarn hairiness 1086, * Thickness 85, * conductivity 33, * resistance 57, * absorptivity 25, * Relative water vapor permeability 283, * * Significant for α =.05. As the amount of Angora fiber increased, the thermal conductivity decreased (Figure 1). This could be explained with the structure of yarns. Angora is a heterotype fleece and contains some coarse hairs called bristle. The bristle imparts the characteristic hairiness to the yarn. Therefore, when the yarn contained Angora rabbit fiber, it caused fabric hairiness (Figures 2 and 3). As mentioned by Pac and his colleagues [8], the hairs encapsulate air between the emergent fibers and the fabric surface and the trapped air has a lower thermal conductivity than the fibers. Therefore, air transports a low quantity of energy by conduction, and so with the increase of hairiness, thermal conductivity decreases as well. Besides the hairiness, the medulla structure in the core of Angora fiber also gives a good insulation property. When the results were evaluated for yarn spinning system, the fabrics knitted from ring yarns had lower conductivity values than the OE ones (Figure 1). This could be explained with the hairy structure of However, for 25 % of Angora fiber content, the thermal conductivity difference was not significant, although there was a difference between ring and OE yarn hairiness values. It was possible to explain this situation such as; while the amount of Angora fiber increased, the medulla structure in the core of fiber became more important than the yarn hairiness. Resistance resistance is an indication of how well a material insulates. It is based on the equation:

4 Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics N. Oglakcioglu et al. 891 TRJ Figure 1 conductivity values Figure 2 Uster yarn hairiness values Figure 3 Yarn structure: (a) 100 % cotton ring yarn; (b) 25 % Angora/75 % cotton ring yarn.

5 TRJ 892 Textile Research Journal 79(10) Figure 4 resistance values R = h/λ (1) where R is the thermal resistance, h is the thickness and λ is the thermal conductivity. As the ratio of Angora fiber increased, the thermal resistance increased as well (Figure 4). This situation might be explained by both the thermal conductivity and the fabric thickness. Because the thermal conductivity values decreased and thickness increased significantly as the amount of Angora fiber increased (Tables 1 and 2), so the thermal resistance increased as mentioned in equation (1) R = h/λ. However, the statistical analyses showed that only the fabric including 25 % of rabbit fiber generated a significant difference on yarn hairiness and so thermal resistance values (Tables 1 and 2). Gupta et al. observed a parallel result in their study with Angora rabbit fiber blends and they noted that a product having 25 % of rabbit fiber is dominated by rabbit fiber virtues like softness, warmth and visual appeal [3]. The results showed that the fabrics from ring yarns had significantly more thermal resistance than OE ones (Table 3). This could be explained with the thermal conductivity and fabric thickness again. The fabrics knitted from ring yarns had less thermal conductivity and were thicker than the fabrics knitted from OE yarns (Tables 1 and 2). Therefore, the fabrics knitted from ring yarns provided more thermal insulation. Absorptivity absorptivity determines the contact temperature of two materials. It can be expressed as: b = (λ ρ c) 1/2 (2) where λ is the thermal conductivity, ρ is the fabric density and c is the specific heat of fabric. The use of thermal absorptivity is justified just for the short initial time τ of thermal contact between the skin and the fabric and this initial sensation is most important for the warm-cool feeling [16]. Fabrics with a low value of thermal absorptivity give a warmer feeling as mentioned by Frydrych and his colleagues [17]. The statistical evaluations showed that only 25 % of Angora fiber ratio caused a significant difference in absorptivity values. absorptivity values of knitted fabrics from 25 % Angora/75 % cotton yarn were less than the others. Therefore, these fabrics gave a warmer feeling. This situation could be explained by hairiness of Angora fibers as explained by previous research [8]. absorptivity values of the fabrics produced by using OE and ring yarns were different from each other significantly (Table 3). As can be seen in Figure 5, thermal absorptivity values of the fabrics knitted from OE yarns were higher than the fabrics from ring yarns, because of less yarn hairiness. As mentioned previously [8], ring yarns have more hairiness than OE yarns, so the hairs encapsulate air between the emergent fibers and the fabric surface. Therefore, when the skin comes into contact with the fabric, a thin air layer is at the contact interface. Thus, the heat transfer is reduced and the fabric feels warmer to the initial touch. Relative Water Vapor Permeability Relative water vapor permeability is given by the relationship: p% = 100 q s /q o (3) where q s is the heat flow value with a sample (W/m 2 ) and q o is the heat flow value without a sample (W/m 2 ). According to the statistical analyses (Tables 1 and 2), only 25 % of Angora fiber caused a significant difference

6 Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics N. Oglakcioglu et al. 893 TRJ Figure 5 absorptivity values Figure 6 Relative water vapor permeability values for different blend ratios of OE/ in relative water vapor permeability values. As can be seen from Figure 6, due to the hairy structure of Angora fiber, relative water vapor permeability values decreased. Although both fabrics knitted from OE and ring yarns had the same porosity values (Tables 1 and 2), the fabrics produced from OE yarns had higher relative water permeability because of the hairy structure. Conclusions In this study, the thermal comfort properties of 1 1 rib fabrics knitted with 100 % cotton and three different Angora rabbit/cotton ring and OE yarns were investigated. All the thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and relative water vapor permeability values depended on the chosen fibers, fiber ratio, the yarn spinning method and the fabric hairiness. In our previous study, similar results were found regarding interlock knitted fabrics from Angora rabbit/cotton blended yarns [18]. The increase of Angora fiber ratio in the fabric affected thermal comfort properties. As the Angora rabbit fiber increased, yarn hairiness, fabric thickness and thermal resistance increased, whereas thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and relative water vapor permeability decreased. However, the statistical analyses showed that only the fabrics including 25 % of rabbit fiber generated a significant difference on these parameters. The spinning method had a significant effect on thermal comfort properties. The fabrics knitted from ring yarns had warmer feeling at first touch and provided more thermal insulation but less water vapor permeability than the fabrics knitted from OE yarns. The cause of this result was changing of yarn hairiness, which is one of the most important parameters on thermal properties of fabrics, with the spinning method.

7 TRJ 894 Textile Research Journal 79(10) From these results, it appears that a link exists between the thermal comfort parameters and the surface hairiness of fabrics. According to these results, it is recommended to use Angora blended fabrics for winter cloths in order to protect from cold weather with high thermal insulation values and for a warmer feeling at first contact. From our statistical evaluation, at least 25 % Angora fiber should be preferred to achieve high levels of comfort properties. However, on the other hand, for high activity garments which need high relative water vapor permeability for better moisture management, fabrics with low Angora blend ratios should be chosen. Acknowledgement We wish to thank the Turkish Scientific and Technical Research Council Textile Research Center for the financial support of this research. Literature Cited Schlink, A. C., and Liu, S. M., Angora Rabbits a Potential New Industry for Australia, RIRDC Publication No. 03/014, RIRDC Project No. CSA-19A (2003). 3. Gupta, N. P., Arora, R. K., and Patni, P. C., Properties and Processing of Angora Rabbit Fiber, CSWRI, Indian Textile J. 7, (1992). 4. Milenkovic, L., Skundric, P., Sokolovic, R., and Nikolic, T., Comfort Properties of Defence Protective Clothing, Sci. J. Facta Univ. 1(4), (1999). 5. Greyson, M., Encyclopedia of Composite Materials and Components, New York, Wiley & Sons (1983). 6. Havenith, G., The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, Exog. Dermatol. 1(5), (2002). 7. Hes, L., An Indirect Method for the Fast Evaluation of Surface Moisture Absorptiveness of Shirt and Underwear Fabrics, Vlakna Textil 7(2), (2000). 8. Pac, M. J., Bueno, M. A., and Renner, M., Warm-cool Feeling Relative to Tribological Properties of Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 71(19), (2001). 9. Anand, S., and Rebenciuc, C., Elaboration of a Prediction Method of the Values for Some Characteristics of the Weft Knitted Fabrics, In 5th International Conference TEXSCI 2003 Proceedings, Liberec, Czech Republic (2003). 10. Ozdil, N., Marmarali, A., and Kretzschmar Donmez, S., Effect of Yarn Properties on Comfort of Knitted Fabrics, Int. J. Therm. Sci. 46, (2007). 11. Ucar, N., and Yilmaz, T., Properties of 1 1, 2 2, 3 3 Rib Knit Fabrics, Fibres Textiles East. Eur. 12, (2004). 12. Hes, L., Properties of Nonwovens, In Proceedings of Congress Index 87, Geneva, Switzerland (1987). 13. Hes, L., Marketing Aspects of Clothing Comfort Evaluation, X, In International Textile and Apparel Symposium Proceedings, Izmir, Turkey (2004). 14. ISO 11092, Textiles Determination of Physiological Properties Measurement of and Water Vapor Resistance Under Steady-state Conditions (Sweating Guarded-hotplate Test) (1993). 15. Ergun, M., SPSS for Windows, Ocak Publisher, Ankara, Turkey (1995). 16. Hes, L., Fast Determination of Surface Moisture Absorptivity of Smart Underwear Knits, International Textile Conference, Terrassa, Spain (2001). 17. Frydrych, I., Dziworska, G., and Bilska, J., Comparative Analyses of the Insulation Properties of Fabrics Made of Natural and Man-made Cellulose Fibres, Fibres Textiles East. Eur. 39, (2002). 18. Marmarali, A., Kadoglu, H., Celik, P., Oglakcioglu, N., Bedez Ute, T., and Ureyen, M. E., The Comfort Properties of Angora Rabbit/Cotton Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics, AUTEX 2007, Tampere, Finland (2007).

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