Crazy Seasons Mystery Quilt, Block #6 Spring
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1 Crazy Seasons Mystery Quilt, Block #6 Spring
2 SUPPLY LIST: Flannels or brushed cottons: 3 x 7 solid dk. olive green (A) 6 x 6 sage green stripe (F) 8 x 10 gray stripe (B) 3 ½ x 7 ¼ blue & black print (G) 7 ½ x 10 brown (C) 8 x 8 ¾ teal & black plaid (H) 4 ¼ x 10 ¼ solid lt. olive green (D) 4 x 10 blue stripe (I) 4 ½ x 11 dk. green & black plaid (E) 7 ¼ x 8 ¾ tan stripe (J) Pre-washed 100% wool fabric (appliqués): Piece B: 2 x 5 ½ pink (flowers), 1 x 2 ½ dk rose pink (buds), 2 x 5 med-dk green (leaves) Piece C: 4 ¼ x 5 ¼ white (bunny), 1 ¼ x 1 ½ gray/white check (tail), 1 x 2 ¼ pink (inner ears) Piece D: 1 ½ x 4 ¼ white (wings), 1 ¼ x 2 yellow (body) Piece E: 3 x 3 ½ teal (flower), 2 x 2 ¼ lt teal (flower center), 2 x 6 lt green (stem & leaves) Piece F: 1 x 3 ¼ dk purple (upper wings), 1 ¼ x 2 ¼ lt purple (lower wings), ¾ x 2 ½ brown/black (body) Piece G: 2 x 5 ½ blue plaid (bird), 1 x 2 gray plaid (wing) Piece H: 1 ½ x 4 ½ brown (tree), 1 ½ x 4 ¼ med green (leaves), 1 ½ x 3 ¼ gray (bird) Piece I: 3 x 3 white/gray check (fence) Piece J: 2 x 3 brown plaid (basket) Plus: Embroidery floss to match wool appliqués, plus misc. floss and/or perle cotton for embroidery Tearaway stabilizer or lightweight fusible interfacing (optional see instructions) NOTE THAT I DO NOT USE FUSIBLE WEB FOR MY APPLIQUÉS!! If you do wish to use fusible web, you will have to reverse the patterns. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS: PLEASE READ! *NOTE: Be sure you printed the pattern pages using the actual size selection on your printer (not fit to page ). To make sure block pieces A thru J are the correct size, cut them out and lay them out into the block shape. Check measurements to be sure the block measures 16 x 16. Finished size of the block is 16 ½ x 16 ½ (includes seam allowance). Block templates DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES! ¼ seam allowances need to be added to all sides of each piece. Instructions are provided on how I did it, but you may have a better way. Each template has a line with arrows indicating grain. Not super important, but get it close if you can. Ten pieces make up the block so be accurate in cutting and sewing! All appliqués are whip stitched in place with 1 or 2 strands of matching embroidery floss. I do not use fusible web or glue I pin in place. EMBROIDERY TIPS & HINTS: (you really should read this too ) I was an embroidery fiend I would still be stitching if I didn t have a deadline. If you prefer not to be a fiend, you can eliminate some of the embroidery details or simplify them.
3 Each pattern piece has embroidery noted with the stitch used, number of strands of floss, and color of floss. Perle cotton can be used in place of floss, just use a size close to the noted number of floss strands. I used a lot of hand dyed floss as well, especially for the greens. Bunny dilemma: being too lazy to get up and retrieve my drawn up pattern with the really cute bunny bow, I just winged it. And still in lazy mode (and with a deadline), I didn t want to rip out the not-so-cute bow. Hence you have two bows to choose from. I did use 6 strands of floss, which I think is too heavy, so use 3 as noted. All of the stitches I used are basic embroidery stitches and can be found online if you are unfamiliar with them. Two things of note: the chain stitching is done very tightly so that it looks solid. Also, I used a lazy daisy + straight stitch for many of the leaves and flower petals. This is simply a lazy daisy stitch with 1 or 2 straight stitches over the top. Use one straight stitch to keep it light and airy, or 2 for a denser look. Stitching over the seams can be very simple or fiendish :-) The last page of the pattern has samples of the size, type, and location of the seam stitching I used. Extend as necessary to cover the length of the seam. Some of the seam stitching is also noted on the pattern pages for each piece. I did not want the stitching to be perfect so just marked stems and vines with a chalk pencil and freehanded the leaves. For the large vine design below the bunny, you can add or subtract parts of the vine as needed to fill in areas. To hoop or not to hoop.i didn t for fear of hoop imprints I d have to iron out. You can use a hoop if you prefer, or tearaway stabilizer, water soluble stabilizer, or featherweight non-woven fusible interfacing. I did the latter. I fused it very lightly, and by the time I was done embroidering, it was mostly falling off. So I ripped most all of it off except where it was secured by stitching. INSTRUCTIONS: Trace templates onto paper side of freezer paper and cut out on traced lines. Iron shiny side of freezer paper templates onto RIGHT side of each fabric piece. Using rotary cutter and your acrylic ruler, cut out templates ¼ away from freezer paper. Remove freezer paper (or leave it on as a guide). Piece as follows, with ¼ seam allowance, pressing seams to the side as you go: A to B, then AB to C D to ABC E to ABCD F to G, then FG to ABCDE I to H, then IH to the rest of the block, and finally J to the last edge Press block and square up if necessary. Cut out appliqués from wool as noted on patterns. Using patterns as a guide, pin appliques in place and whip stitch to block. I appliqued one section at a time to minimize pins. Complete embroidery on appliqués as noted on patterns. Fuse interfacing to the back of the block, if using. Referring to stitching guide on last page, embroider seams. C 2019 Kathi Campbell. Heart to Hand. All rights reserved. Enjoy! Heart to Hand, PO Box 7, Silverado, CA
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