View A. View B. Ciao Bella Size September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson

Transcription

1 View A View B Ciao Bella Size 1-12 September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson

2 Quick Measure Ciao Bella is written for wovens and stretch knits. View A has an optional overskirt of overlapping ruffles. View B has a ruffle attached to the bottom. Both have elasticized neckline, sleeves, and waistband. This pattern is suitable for beginner sewers. Girls love this comfortable easy-to-wear top. View A View B Fabric Requirements (in yards) Size View A 1 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 7/ /4 View B 3/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/4 Size View A 2 1/4 2 1/2 2 5/ /8 3 1/4 View B 1 3/ /4 2 1/4 2 1/2 *Fabric requirements based on 44/45 wide fabric. Suggested fabrics: Designed for both wovens (such as cotton, voile, lawn, eyelet, plisse, batiste, and broadcloth) and stretch knits with 25% stretch across the grain (such as jersey, interlock, matte jersey, double knit) Notions: Universal or Ball-point needle, Polyester thread, 1 package of ¼ wide elastic, 1 package of ½ wide elastic OPTIONAL: Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch Thread if using knits. Web: ellieinspired@juno.com

3 Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson Please read through all directions before beginning. GLOSSARY Finishing seam edges There are three ways to achieve a professional seam inside your garment with this pattern: 1. Use a serger when stitching the seams. 2. Use an overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine when stitching the seam. 3. Use French seams to enclose raw edges. Shaded areas in diagram In all of the diagrams in this pattern, the shaded areas are the wrong side of the garment. Armscye Armhole opening. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Size Chest* Length** ½ ½ Size Chest* Length** ½ ½ Size Chest* Length** ½ ½ *includes ease **from shoulder to hem. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 3

4 Cut out TWO sleeves according to these measurements: Size NOTE: If French seams are going to be used, cut out pattern pieces with an additional seam allowance of ¼. All seam allowances are ¼ unless otherwise stated. Cut out BOTH the front and back bodice pieces according to the measurements. Size (length x width) 7 x 14 7 ½ x 14 ½ 8 x 14 ½ 8 ½ x 15 Size (length x width) 9 x 15 ½ 9 ½ x 15 ½ 10 x ½ x 16 ½ Size (length x width) 10 x 14 ½ 11 ½ x x 15 ½ 14 ½ x 16 Size (length x width) 11 x 16 ½ 11 ½ x x 17 ½ 12 ½ x 17 ½ (length x width) 16 x 16 ½ 17 ½ x x 17 ½ 20 ½ x 18 Size Cut out armsyce of the bodices and sleeves. To cut out the armscye, fold each bodice piece and each sleeve piece in half widthwise so that raw edges are even. Place the arm curve along the raw edges and cut along outer curve for armscye. (length x width) 22 x 18 ½ 23 ½ x x 19 ½ 26 ½ x 20 See the diagram and pattern pieces on the following page. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 4

5 FOLD Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright August TOP Ciao Bella ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve Use to cut each side of sleeve, front bodice, and back bodice SIDE TOP Ciao Bella ELLIE INSPIRED Armscye Curve Use to cut each side of sleeve, front bodice, and back bodice SIDE TOP SIDE September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson

6 Cut out TWO of the ruffle (called the third tier below). 1 st and 2 nd tiers are an optional overskirt shown in View A. Cut TWO of these as well. Size st Tier 4 ¼ x 20 4 ¾ x 23 5 ¼ x 26 6 x 29 6 ½ x 31 7 ¾ x34 2 nd Tier 4 ¼ x 20 4 ¾ x 23 5 ¼ x 26 6 x 29 6 ½ x 31 7 ¾ x34 3 rd Tier 3 ½ x 20 3 ½ x 23 4 x 26 4 x 29 4 ½ x 31 5 x 34 Size st Tier 8 ¼ x 37 9 x40 9 ½ x ¼ x45 10 ¾ x45 11 ½ x45 2 nd Tier 8 ¼ x 37 9 x40 9 ½ x ¼ x45 10 ¾ x45 11 ½ x45 3 rd Tier 5 x 37 5 ½ x 40 5 ½ x 43 6 x 45 6 x 45 6 ½ x 45 Cut out waistband 2 1/2 wide by the following length: Size Length Size Length September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 6

7 SEWING THE TOP Bodice Construction: 1. Complete embroidery on shirt front, if desired. 3. Place shirt back to the sleeve with right sides together. Stitch along other angled side with a finished seam edge. 4. Repeat with other sleeve so that the shirt is joined in a circle. 2. Place one sleeve on top of the shirt front with right sides together. Stitch along angled side with a finished seam edge. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 7

8 Stitching the Side Seams: 1. Fold the shirt in half, right sides together, at the arms and match front arm seams with back arm seams. Make sure sleeve opening edges and bottom of shirt pieces match. 2. Stitch in place, close the folded edge and leave a small opening at the center back to insert the elastic. 2. Stitch from sleeve opening under the arm and down the sides of the shirt with a finished seam edge. Finishing the Neckline: 1. Press the top of the neckline to the inside ¼. Press again ½ to the inside of the garment. 3. Cut a length of ¼ elastic the measurement below and thread through the opening. (Use a safety pin to feed the elastic through the casing. Use another safety pin to prevent the other end from slipping through. Size Elastic 15 ½ ½ ½ 18 Size Elastic 18 ½ ½ ½ 21 September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 8

9 4. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any extra. Stitch the opening at the center back closed. Finishing the Sleeves: 1. Hem the bottom of each sleeve by pressing up ¼ and again another ¼, enclosing the raw edge. Stitch close to folded edge, leaving an opening to insert the elastic. 2. Cut a length of ¼ elastic the measurement below and thread through the opening. (Use a safety pin as before.) Size Elastic 6 ¾ 7 7 ¼ 7 ½ 7 ¾ 8 Size Elastic 8 ¼ 8 ½ 8 ¾ 9 9 ¼ 9 ½ 3. Join the ends of elastic securely by stitching several rows with a zig-zag stitch. Trim any extra. Stitch the opening closed. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 9

10 Hemming the Ruffles: NOTE: If using knit fabric, it may need to be stabilized to reduce stretching the hem out of shape. To do this: stabilize the hem with strips of fusible interfacing, which also anchor the hem during stitching. Traditional Hem: 1. Join the strips of fabric by placing right sides together and stitching the short sides. Attaching the Bottom Ruffle: 1. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼ apart all the way around the top of the ruffle. 2. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather the top of the tier. 2. Press the bottom of the strip of fabric up ¼ and again ¼, enclosing the raw edge or serge the edge and press the hem up ¼. 2. If using a knit that is very stretchy or prone to roll, a little spray starch may be necessary before pressing. 3. Place the tier over the bottom of the shirt, right sides together and matching side seams. Adjust gathers to fit. 4. Stitch ruffle to bodice, slightly to the inside of the gathering threads. Press seam up and top-stitch in place, if desired. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 10

11 Attaching the Optional Skirt Tiers (View A): 1. Measure from the bottom of the armscye 2 and mark a line straight across. This line can be pressed with an iron or drawn with a washaway pen. This will mark the top of the first ruffle. 2. Measure again from that line down according to the chart below and mark or press another line. 2 Size according to chart 2 ¼ 2 ¾ 3 ¼ 4 4 ½ 5 ¾ Size ¼ 7 7 ½ 8 ¼ 8 ¾ 9 ½ September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 11

12 3. Stitch two rows of gathering threads ¼ apart all the way around the top of the skirt tiers. 4. Pull the ends of the gathering threads to gather the top of the tier. 5. Place the tier on the bottom one of the previously marked lines, right sides together and matching side seams. Adjust gathers to fit. 6. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the inside of the gathering threads. Fold tier down and top-stitch in place. 7. Repeat steps #1-2 with remaining skirt tier. 8. Place the tier on the top marked line with the wrong side to the right side of the bodice. Adjust gathers to fit. 9. Stitch tier to bodice, slightly to the inside of the gathering threads. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 12

13 Attaching the Waistband: 1. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge (fig A.) Turn right side and press (fig. B). A. B. View A View B 5. Thread 1/2 elastic the following measurement through the waistband. 2. Placing the waistband: a. FOR VIEW A: Place waistband over the seam used to attach the top skirt tier. b. FOR VIEW B: Measure 1 ½ down from the bottom of the armscye. Press a line around the bodice to mark placement of the waistband. 4. The ends should overlap under one of the sleeves. Stitch in place close to each edge, leaving each end free. Size Elastic Size Elastic Stitch to secure each elastic end inside the waistband. 7. Overlap the ends of the waistband and fold in the raw edges. Stitch the finished ends of the waistband to the top. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 13

14 TIPS FOR SEWING WITH KNITS Types of Knits: 1. Stable Knits Knits with 18-25% stretch ratio. Example: polar fleece and sweat fabrics. 2. Moderate Knits - Knits with 26-50% stretch ratio. Example: T-shirt fabric, interlocks, jerseys, double-knits. 3. Stretchy Knits - Knits with 51-75% stretch ratio. Example: velour, stretch terry, some T-shirt fabrics. 4. Super-Stretch Knits - Knits with % stretch ratio. Example: spandex, nylon spandex, cotton spandex, jumbo spandex. 5. Rib Knits - Knits with up to 100% stretch ratio. Rib knits are created by alternating vertical stripes of stockinette stitch with vertical stripes of reverse stockinette stitch. 1x1 Ribs stretch more than 2x2 or 3x3 ribs. Example: cuff ribbing, waistband ribbing, crew neck collars. 6. Sweater Knits - Knits with 18-50% stretch ratio. Example: sweaters and sweater dresses. 7. Stretch Wovens - Knits with less than 18% stretch ratio. Stretch wovens are created by weaving lycra within fabric. Pressing Knits: It is not necessary to press knits while constructing the garment since they do not take a sharp crease. However, the garment can be blocked when finished to shape it, make the hems lie flat, and relax stitching and elastic. Interfacing: Interfacing should be used very sparingly with knits because it will prevent the knit from stretching. If interfacing must be used, use tricot interfacing which has a cross-wise stretch. It will not bubble or pucker like Pellon or woven fusing. Stabilizers such as twill tape, seam binding, or a piece of woven selvage can be used to reinforce shoulder seams and prevent the garment from stretching out of shape. Machine Stitches: 1. Stretch Stitch The stretch stitch looks like a lightning bolt on the sewing machine. It is a great choice to cut down on skipped and broken stitches. 2. Zig-Zag Stitch: A stitch that goes one way (zig), then the other (zag), which gives the fabric more room to stretch. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 14

15 3. Three-Step Zig-Zag Stitch: A variation of the traditional zig-zag stitch which works better with tightly knitted fabrics to prevent skipped stitches and bunching under the needle. 4. Twin-Needle Stitching - A twin needle will sew two parallel lines of stitches on the top of a piece of fabric, and a single zig-zag stitch underneath, making the seam decorative and stretchy. Notions: 1. Ball-point needles Sharp needles pierce the fabric and cut the fibers. Ballpoint needles have rounded tips and are designed to glide through the loops instead so that the fabric is not harmed. 2. Polyester thread - Polyester thread has more elasticity and can stretch a little with the fabric. Use polyester thread in the needle to create stable seams. 3. Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch thread These threads create seams that recover after being stretched, which is a great benefit when sewing knit fabrics. Use this thread in the upper looper of the serger and in the bobbin of the sewing machine. It also offers great coverage when stitching rolled hems. 4. Walking Foot - A walking foot is optional but it will help greatly in diminishing puckering in the seams. It helps to grip the top of fabric so that the top and bottom pass through under the needle evenly. Fold-Over Elastic, Bindings, and Ribbed Finishes: 1. Fold-Over Elastic: This can be used to bind edges. It is a stretchy trim with a knitted-in foldline. It stretches, comes in different widths, shiny, matte, or picot-edged. 2. Self-Fabric Bindings: Use a knit with a high stretch ratio. 3. Ribbed Finishes: When cutting rib knit for cuffs or neckline, stretch the fabric when cutting. September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 15

16 Ciao Bella by Laura Johnson By Laura Johnson. For personal use only. All rights reserved. Copyright September No part of this pattern may be reproduced or copied without permission in writing from the author. To see more patterns by Laura Johnson go to Fair use of this pattern are subject to the following conditions: Ciao Bella is a special thank-you gift for my amazing customers and is available for FREE! It is only available on my website: Please do NOT repost this pattern in its entirety. A link may be provided back to my site. If you sell garments made using this pattern, in consideration of the many hours spent on the design, please always give credit to Ellie Inspired as the designer (i.e. Ciao Bella pattern by Ellie Inspired, No mass production is permitted using this pattern. For questions on sewing patterns by Ellie Inspired, visit the discussion forums on our website: September 2012 Ellie Inspired, Laura Johnson 16