05/09/ Initial Draft. 05/11/ Initial Release

Transcription

1 Rochester Institute of Technology MECE 499: Senior Design II P17104 & P17105 HABIP Assembly Guide First Edit: 05/09/2017 Revision History 05/09/ Initial Draft 05/11/ Initial Release Note: All manufacturing procedures are written with respect to the equipment available in the Rochester Institute of Technology s Machine Shop in Building 09. 1

2 Contents 1. Cage Manufacturing... 3 a. Reference Drawings.. 3 b. Required Materials... 3 c. Machining Procedure Cage Assembly 6 a. Components 6 b. Equipment 6 c. Assembly 6 3. Layer Manufacturing.. 9 a. Reference Drawings.. 9 b. Required Materials... 9 c. Machining Procedure Component Integration.. 16 a. Component List by Mount Location.. 16 b. Notes on Integration. 17 c. M : COMMS Layer Board Integration. 19 d. M : COMMS Coupling Layer Integration.. 26 e. M : Motor Layer Integration f. M : DAQCS Coupling Layer Integration.. 30 g. M : DAQCS Layer Board Integration

3 1. Cage Manufacturing (a.) Reference Drawings The following are the part drawings for the cage subsystem components, 1. M dwg 2. M dwg 3. M dwg 4. M dwg (b.) Required Materials The following is the required raw materials for the cage subsystem components 1. 2 x 1 x Aluminum Sheet Metal 2. 1 x 1 x Aluminum Sheet Metal 3. 4 Telescoping Antenna (or 8 depending on lengths) 4. Rotary Tool (Dremel) 5. Rotary Tool Grindstone Bit 6. Hot Glue Gun: No specific model 7. Hot Glue Sticks: No specific brand 8. Plastic Wire End Clamps 9. Hand Drill: No specific model 10. Drill Bits: No specific requirements, any stock bit set will be suitable (c.) Machining Protocol During machining of the cage subsystem, the reference drawings noted above (a.) are valid drawings. With that being the case there is no specific protocol required for manufacturing the above components. A general guide with tips is provided below, so long as the dimensions provided in the drawings are met. NOTE: USE APPROPRIATE DRAWING, ONLY USING THE BELOW STEPS AS PROCEDURAL STEPS 1. M a) First the sheet metal plate was cut into several individual bars using the shear in the machine shop. If you do not have prior experience with such, it is recommended that you seek assistance at this point; it is very easy to create wasteful parts using the shear. The shear is by far the best options as it provides the straightest cuts. The band saw can be used when set to 800 SFM, however the machine shop band saw guide is less than optimal for this purpose. The shear also works much faster. The edges should then be deburred. b) Once the individual bars have been cut, the most prudent step is to machine the various holes outlined in the drawings. This is most easily accomplished using the mill. A consistent bar geometry can be made using a vise-stop and clamps. The vise-stop positions the bars at the same location each time (so that you can zero the mill dimension screen for ease of machining) while the clamps hold the bars in place. Two clamps were used to hold the bars steady, however it was found when using the center drill to make the pilot holes, the clamps would occasionally not hold. There was no solution to this other than, careful machining. c) With the holes now cut into all of the bars, the next and final step is to bend the bars. Bend all of the bars at the same time, positioning all towards the center of the bending machine. Each bar should be separated from each other by approximately an inch. Place two additional scrap pieces of metal on the far ends of the bending machine as the machine bends skewly and this partially corrects this. Draw a bend line on the individual bars so that you can line it up under the bend arm. While the arm is coming down adjust the 3

4 positions of the bars to better align them with the bend arm. While bending the pieces at the appropriate points, bend slowly and carefully to avoid over bending (>90 degrees) as this can lead to cracks at the bend points. If done correctly all the bars should have 90 degree bends while experiencing no cracks at the bend points. This is the point where there will be issues if any. Prepare additional pieces in the event of issue. d) Repeat until you have eight complete parts. 2. M a) Contrary to the other parts included in the cage subsystem, the first step in making these components is to machine the holes. The radial positioning of the holes are critical dimensions and must be made with care. b) The holes are to be machined into a large pane of sheet metal. The purpose of this is to allow enough adjacent room for the part to be clamped. First place a large metal, aluminum, T block into a mill clamp. This will provide a large enough area support to machine all the part holes. The metal sheet pane is then placed on top of the T block, and clamped to the T block. Three clamps were used and proved suitable. c) Locate the center hole of the part and zero the mill at this point. Using this point the hole pattern can be easily machined out. First pilot the hole with a center drill and then machine through with the appropriate drill bit. d) When all holes are drilled into the sheet pane, the parts can then be cut out of the pane using the band saw. The dimension on the outside radii of the part is not critical and so the band saw can be used to cut this aspect of the part. e) Repeat until you have two complete parts. 3. M a) First the sheet metal plate was cut into several individual bars using the shear in the machine shop. If you do not have prior experience with such, it is recommended that you seek assistance at this point; it is very easy to create wasteful parts using the shear. The shear is by far the best options as it provides the straightest cuts. The band saw can be used when set to 800 SFM, however the machine shop band saw guide is less than optimal for this purpose. The shear also works much faster. The edges should then be deburred. b) Once the individual bars have been cut, the most prudent step is to machine the various holes outlined in the drawings. This is most easily accomplished using the mill. A consistent bar geometry can be made using a vise-stop and clamps. The vise-stop positions the bars at the same location each time (so that you can zero the mill dimension screen for ease of machining) while the clamps hold the bars in place. Two clamps were used to hold the bars steady, however it was found when using the center drill to make the pilot holes, the clamps would occasionally not hold. There was no solution to this other than, careful machining. If the vise-stop provides not enough to manage the larger bars (i.e. the bottom bars) and can wrench in a stop to the milling machine bench grate. c) With the holes now cut into all of the bars, the next and final step is to bend the bars. Bend all of the bars at the same time, positioning all towards the center of the bending machine. Each bar should be separated from each other by approximately an inch. Place two additional scrap pieces of metal on the far ends of the bending machine as the machine bends skewly and this partially corrects this. Draw a bend line on the individual bars so that you can line it up under the bend arm. While the arm is coming down adjust the positions of the bars to better align them with the bend arm. While bending the pieces at the appropriate points, bend slowly and carefully to avoid over bending (>90 degrees) as this can lead to cracks at the bend points. If done correctly all the bars should have 90 degree bends while experiencing no cracks at the bend points. This is the point where there will be issues if any. Prepare additional pieces in the event of issue. d) Repeat until you have eight complete parts. 4

5 4. M a) The correct dimensioning of this component is not required so long as the hole locations are maintained as included in the drawing. The edges should then be deburred. b) First cut out the coupling using the band saw set to 800 SFM. This can be accomplished by making a series of well planned cuts. c) The holes of the parts can be machined using either the mill or drill press. If using the drill press, you must first etch the location of the holes, and then tap each hole location (pilot the hole). d) The bending of this part cannot be accomplished on the bending machine as the bend part is too small. As such you must manually end the part by first clamping the part into a vise-grip, leaving the small arm of the piece exposed. The bend can then be made by gentling hitting the small arm of piece, until it is bent at an approximate 90 degree angle. The bend dimensions here are non-critical. The only requirement is that there is no bend along/near the crack. e) Repeat until you have eight complete parts. 4. M a) To make the antenna radials, telescoping antennas must be reduced in size. The minimum length of said grounds need to be 18 inches (this along with the horizontal length of the bottom cage bars equate to two feet of antenna ground). b) The telescoping antennas can be cut to length using the grindstone bit of a rotary tool (Make sure to wear glasses!) Simply mark off the desired length and cut along the line. It is recommended that you add a couple of extra inches on the length of the radial that you desire. c) The newly cut end of the radial rod now needs to be flattened this is where the extra inches are used. Press the cut end of the rod into a clamp and tighten the clamp until the rod diameter flattens to a rectangle. This should not take much effort as telescoping antennas are thin. Make sure not to bend the radial rod. d) Finally, a screw hole must be drilled into the newly flattened portion of the rod. This can be done using a.1405 drill bit and a drill press. This will however require detail as the drill press can catch onto the part and drag it upward along the bit, making you look ridiculous. It is however recommended to use a hand drill. e) Using a hand drill, begin by making a pilot hole using a very small bit (<<.1405). Continue increasing the bit size until a.1405 diameter hole is bored out. f) When drilling the hole make sure to tap the hole location so that the hole will not break any edge of the flattened area. g) At the opposite end of the rod, a plastic end cap is to be hot glued on. To do this, fill the end cap with hot glue, and then stick the radial end into the cap, holding still, allowing the glue to set. h) Repeat this until there are eight complete radials. 5

6 2. Cage Assembly (a.) Components To assemble the aluminum cage subsystem of the HABIP Platform, the following are the required materials and components, 1. M : Top Cage Bars (x8) 2. M : Coupling Disk (x2) 3. M : Bottom Cage Bars (x8) 4. M : Radial Coupling (x8) 5. M : High Strength Aluminum Rivet (x48) 6. M : #10 Aluminum Washer (x48) 7. M : #6 Aluminum Screw (x8) 8. M : #6 Aluminum Washer (x16) 9. M : #6 Aluminum Nut (x24) 10. M : Loctite 243 Threadlocker (x1) 11. M : Radial Grounds (x4) Changes depending on stock lengths (b.) Equipment To assemble the aluminum cage subsystem of the HABIP, the following are the required equipment and tools, 1. Rivet Gun: None in specific 2. Gloves: To be worn to prevent cuts from burrs, sharp edges, etc (c.) Assembly 1. Connecting M to M (Radials to Radial Couplings) The radials (telescoping antennas) are to be connected to the radial couplings using M , M (x24), M (x16), and M (x8). Refer to the below picture for the assembly series. To prevent bouncing during flight M should be tightly secured into position i.e. the nuts (M ) should be tightened firmly to the point that M cannot autonomously move only motion should be when moved by an adjacent individual. The nuts can be tightened by hand. To permanently tighten the nuts, apply M and let dry before manipulating the radial arms. Repeat this process until all radial couplings are complete (8x total). Note: The tape applied to M was for the purpose of raising the radial rod. If the rod (when extended out) sinks below the horizontal small amounts of tape can be applied to M at where the rod will lay to raise the rod to horizontal. 6

7 2. Connecting M to M (Radial Couplings to Bottom Cage Bars) The radial couplings are to be connected to the bottom cage bars using M (x16) and M (x16). The radial couplings are to be connected to the bottom cage bars by permanently riveting the connections. At the bottom face of the rivet place a washer (M ) before then pressing the rivet-washer assembly through the radial coupling and then the bottom cage bar. The washer is a disposable stopper, in that if disassembly is required, you are to cut into the washer as to not deface the radial coupling. There is no specific rivet gun required for this. Repeat this process until all components are complete (x8). 3. Connecting M to M (Bottom Cage Bars to Coupling Disk) The bottom cage bars (M ) are to be connected to a coupling disk (M ) using M (x16) and M (x16). The bottom cage bars are to be connected to the coupling disk by permanently riveting the connections. At the bottom face of the rivet place a washer (M ) before then pressing the rivetwasher assembly through the coupling disk and then the bottom cage bar. The washer is a disposable stopper, in that if disassembly is required, you are to cut into the washer as to not deface the coupling disk. There is no specific rivet gun required for this. 7

8 4. Connecting M to M (Top Cage Bars to Coupling Disk) The top cage bars (M ) are to be connected to a coupling disk (M ) using M (x16) and M (x16). The top cage bars are to be connected to the coupling disk by permanently riveting the connections. At the bottom face of the rivet place a washer (M ) before then pressing the rivet-washer assembly through the coupling disk and then the bottom cage bar. The washer is a disposable stopper, in that if disassembly is required, you are to cut into the washer as to not deface the coupling disk. There is no specific rivet gun required for this. 8

9 3. Layer Manufacturing (a.) Reference Drawings The following are the part drawings for the cage subsystem components, 1. M dwg 2. M dwg 3. M dwg 4. M dwg 5. M dwg The above listed drawings are only for reference, to be used in parallel with the listed procedures. (b.) Required Materials The following is the required raw materials for the cage subsystem components, x 2 x 1 Polystyrene Foam Boards 2. Mylar Foil Covering 3. Hot Glue Gun: No specific model 4. Hot Glue Sticks: No specific brand 5. Titebond II Wood Glue: Water-Resistant, Interior/Exterior 6. Stiff Blade Box Cutter 7. Long Blade Box Cutter 8. Wide Radii Drawing Compass 9. Protractor 10. Ruler 11. Rotary Tool (Dremel) 12. Rotary Tool Woodcarving Bit 13. Sandpaper: None in specific, previously used 150 Grip 9

10 (c.) Machining Protocol 1. M : COMMS Coupling Layer a) Begin by marking a center point on a foam board. The center point must be more than 7 inches from either edge of the foam board. By referencing this center point, trace a 7 inch radius circle about the reference point, followed by a 6 inch radius circle concentric to the first. b) Using a protractor and ruler mark off eight angular equally spaced notches on the part as shown to the right that are to be the bar interfaces (from the drawing). c) Slowly and carefully use the stiff blade box cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the part, the cut should be approximately 1/3 of an inch. With the trace cut made, the final cuts to the part can be made with the long bladed box cutter. Simply follow the trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It should take no more than three complete outlines of the trace to completely cut out the part. The finished part should be a ring with an inner diameter of 12 inches and an outer diameter of 14 inches. d) The notches can be cut from the foam through using either box cutter or a hobby knife. The finish on the notches will be rough and so sanding the notches afterwards is advised. The notches themselves will most likely require rework depending on compatibility with the cage subsystem bars and so be prepared to both widen and deepen the notches. e) Repeat four times, or until four coupling layers are complete. f) All four of the layers must be tested for compatibility i.e. if they fit within the cage subsystem bars. To do so simply insert the coupling layers into a complete cage, specifically the assembled bottom portion of the cage. If the parts do not fit then the notches must be reworked either in terms of widening or deepening the notches as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility. g) Once all four layers are complete, they must now be permanently set to each other. Cover the top-side surface of the appropriate layers with wood glue and adhere the surfaces to each other. 10

11 h) Repeat this process until all four layers are adhered to each other. i) When all the layers have been adhered to using the wood glue, next adhere them all by applying hot glue to the areas shown below. This will reinforce the layer connection. The glue should be applied along the entire length of the edges 11

12 j) Once all the glue is set, the next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially cover all areas of the part, with the exception of the bar interfacing areas (see below). It is also not required than it cover all of the inner area, however it is advised. The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box cutter. It should not be individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the outside of the part, adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue a bead of glue every couple of inches is enough. Do Not Cover Edges Glue to Foam k) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box cutter. The ends of the Mylar should then be glued to the foam using hot glue. This should be repeated at each bar interface. Attempt to get the Mylar covering to be as flat and against the foam as possible. 12

13 2. M : COMMS Layer Board a) Begin by marking a center point on a foam board. The center point must be more than 7 inches from either edge of the foam board. By referencing this center point, trace a 7 inch radius circle about the reference point. b) Using a protractor and ruler mark off eight angular equally spaced notches on the part as shown below that are to be the bar interfaces (from the drawing). c) Slowly and carefully use the stiff blade box cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the part, the cut should be approximately 1/3 of an inch. With the trace cut made, the final cuts to the part can be made with the long bladed box cutter. Simply follow the trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It should take no more than three complete outlines of the trace to completely cut out the part. The finished part should be a disk with an outer radius of 14 inches. d) The notches can be cut from the foam through using either box cutter or a hobby knife. The finish on the notches will be rough and so sanding the notches afterwards is advised. The notches themselves will most likely require rework depending on compatibility with the cage subsystem bars and so be prepared to both widen and deepen the notches. e) With the bottom top side of the part effectively complete, the bottom must now be completed. This will require a rotary tool along with a woodcarving bit. Using the drawing provided above as the template, use the woodcarving bit to machine the bottom components from the part. A bit speed of 15,000 RPM was found to be sufficient. All of the bottom side geometries can be machined this way, carefully taking into account the geometry depths. After machining out all of the geometries, the rough surfaces are to be sanded down. f) The part must be tested for compatibility i.e. if the part fit within the cage subsystem, specifically the bottom cage assembly. To do so simply insert the part into a complete cage, specifically the assembled bottom portion of the cage. If the part does not fit then the notches must be reworked either in terms of widening or deepening the notches as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility. The bottom of the part must also fit into the horizontal bars. If the bars do not fit, then the bottom side geometry must be reworked most likely widening or deepening in the bar imprints. 13

14 g) The next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially cover all outside areas of the part (the sides and bottom) and the internal side (top). The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box cutter. It should not be individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the outside of the part, adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue a bead of glue every couple of inches is enough. h) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box cutter. The ends of the Mylar should then be glued to the foam using hot glue. This should be repeated at each bar interface. Attempt to get the Mylar covering to be as flat and against the foam as possible. i) To adhere Mylar to both the top and bottom surface individual pieces of Mylar need to be cut out. Two 14 inch diameter circle will do. One circle can be directly glued to the top of the part. The top surface of the part can be lightly coated in wood glue, with beads of hot glue used sparingly to reinforce the bond. The adhesion to the top surface should result in a very smooth and flush finish. j) The other circle can be adhered to the bottom surface using nearly the same method as the top surface. The only modification that needs to be implemented is to prevent adhesion to locations where the bar imprints (i.e. where the bars interface) lie on the foam. As before, the Mylar can be adhered to the foam through a combination of both wood glue and hot glue, with the edges of the Mylar being adhered to the glue using hot glue. See the bottom diagram for clarification of where Mylar is to be placed on the bottom surface (Blue surface). Note: Due to bad mouse work the blue shading does not completely cover all of the applicable area. The Mylar should cover the entirety of the applicable surfaces. 14

15 3. M : Motor Layer a) Begin by marking a center point on a foam board. The center point must be more than 7 inches from either edge of the foam board. By referencing this center point, trace a 7 inch radius circle about the reference point. b) Using a protractor and ruler mark off eight angular equally spaced notches on the part as shown to the right that are to be the bar interfaces (from the drawing). c) Slowly and carefully use the stiff blade box cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the part, the cut should be approximately 1/3 of an inch. With the trace cut made, the final cuts to the part can be made with the long bladed box cutter. Simply follow the trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It should take no more than three complete outlines of the trace to completely cut out the part. The finished part should be a disk with an outer radius of 14 inches. d) The notches can be cut from the foam through using either box cutter or a hobby knife. The finish on the notches will be rough and so sanding the notches afterwards is advised. The notches themselves will most likely require rework depending on compatibility with the cage subsystem bars and so be prepared to both widen and deepen the notches. e) The motor layer must be tested for compatibility i.e. if the part fit within the cage subsystem bars. To do so simply insert the part into a complete cage, specifically the assembled bottom portion of the cage. If the part does not fit then the notches must be reworked either in terms of widening or deepening the notches as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility. f) The next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially cover all outside areas of the part, with the exception of the bar interfacing areas. The top and bottom of the part should not be covered in Mylar, only the sides. The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box cutter. It should not be individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the outside of the part, adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue a bead of glue every couple of inches is enough. g) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box cutter. The ends of the Mylar should then be glued to the foam using hot glue. This should be repeated at each bar interface. Attempt to get the Mylar covering to be as flat and against the foam as possible. 4. M : DAQCS Coupling Layer Repeat the steps set forth in the procedures for M with the following modification: Instead of using four coupling layers, this section shall on incorporate three coupling layers. The rest of the information and procedures remain the same. 5. M : DAQCS Layer Board Repeat the steps set forth in the procedures for M

16 4. Component Integration (a.) Component List by Mount Locations 1. COMMS Layer Board (Lower Compartment) Antenna [Wire] Duplexer [Command Strip] Radio Transceiver [Command Strip] ATV [Screws and Nuts] 70 CM Battery [Command Strip] 2M Battery [Command Strip] Motor Battery [Command Strip] Microphone [n/a] LEDs [Glue] Raspberry Pi Camera [Screws and Nuts] NTSC Camera [Glue] 2. DAQCS Layer Board (Upper Compartment) APRS [Plastic Holder] APRS Battery [Command Strip] DAQCS PCB Board [Screws and Nuts] GPS [Command Strip] Motor Controller [Command Strip and Screws and Nuts] Buzzer [Command Strip] LEDs [Glue] 3. COMMS Coupling Layers - None 4. DAQCS Coupling Layers 2 Raspberry Pi Cameras [Screws and Nuts] 2 NTSC Cameras [Glue] LEDs [Glue] External Sensors [Glue] 5. Motor Layer Motor [Inserts, Screws, and Nuts] 4 Raspberry Pi Stacks with Batteries [Screws and Nuts] COMMS PCB Board [Screws and Nuts] OSD Board [Screws and Nuts] GRSS Board with Battery [Screws and Nuts] 16

17 (b.) Note on Integration As a preface to component integration, there are a handful of notes to abide by regarding alterations to the foam subsystem components. 1. Mylar Placement Whenever integrating a component onto a surface covered by Mylar, the Mylar fittingly needs to be removed. This however requires the Mylar to be stripped from the surface. This can be done simply by cutting the surface using a box cutter or hobby knife. The Mylar edges can then be adhered to the surrounding foam by applying hot glue to the adjoining surface. This procedure is consistent for all alterations made in this manner. 2. Sticky Strip Mounting When Command Strips are used for mounting components, unless noted otherwise, the command strip is to be applied directly to the foam surface (un-touched, i.e. as is) and to the component surface. On the erroneous foam subsystem drawings and models there are indents where the command strips are located, however these indents are not literal, they are only for locational purposes. Strips can be cut to size using scissors. 3. Screw Mounting When screws and nuts are to be used to mount components, unless long stock screws are available, the screw is typically required to be made from an extended threaded rod (can be bought from McMaster Carr or any other website). The rods can be cut using a wire shear. They can then be made into a bolt by applying threadlocker to the rod and screwing on the appropriate nut and letting dry. The resultant part should be a permanent bolt. Note that the cut rod will most likely need to be sanded down to allow for a nut to easily screw on. The lengths of the screws will vary and there is no general set of lengths to follow. Measure an approximate length beforehand, cut to the length (with some excess for wiggle room ) and after locking in the nut, remove any excess rod. As for screwing the other end of the bolt into a mounting surface, depending on the orientation of the mount, the appropriate mount configurations can be made. I the part is orientated downward i.e. hanging, then the screws must go through the matting foam board. The follow parts require this, Raspberry Pi Cameras [4 Screws Each] COMMS PSB Board [4 Screws] DACQS PCB Board [4 Screws] OSD Board [4 Screws] Motor Controller [2 Screws] All other components that require screws stand upright (on the top of the board) and thus can be mounted directly to the surface. In order to do so the following procedure is to be followed to create the mounting surface. First the appropriate nut must be placed in the desired location. To do so the surface must first be drilled so that the nut can snuggly fit in the hole. To lock the nut in the hole, place a small amount of hot glue in the hole, and then immediately place the nut into the hole. You must make sure to not adhere any glue to the nut threads. This can be avoided by taking a pin an making a small pin hole at the bottom of the nut hole to allow any excess glue to flow to. Also apply a small amount of glue to the outside perimeter of the nut prevent the nut from dislodging from the hole. The follow part require this, Raspberry Pi Board Stacks [3 Screws Each] GRSS Board [4 Screws] ATV [6 Screws] Screw numbers, types, etc are given in component schematics, or can be inferred from such. 17

18 4. Position Nomenclature Often the general position of components are denoted by their octant. The cage subsystem is comprised of eight bars, and each bar is given a numerical assignment for assembly purposes. This assignment allows alignment of specific components regardless of the layer being worked on. Below highlights the octet identification system for general placement. NOTE: All boards pictured below are orientated upward (i.e. this is the top view of all boards). When identify a component, the octet will be identified. If it is along the diagonal the callout will be as follows: Board-Side-#. If it is between two octets, is will be identified as follows: Board-Side-#/#. Many components have no specific location and so specifying a general location for placement is acceptable and allows for adjustments to be made during assembly. If a component is given a callout of: Board-Side-Schematic there will be a diagram given with exact dimensions for placement. 18

19 (c.) M : COMMS Layer Board 1. Antenna Mounting Method: Wire tied to the radial couplings. Board Orientation: Bottom, Facing (hanging) down. Board Location Callout: N/A, the antenna is located at the middle of the board (center of circle). The antenna requires a hole to be drilled through the center of the COMMS layer board so that the antenna wires can pass through (hole diameter is no larger than.5 ). Above picture is after antenna had snapped upon impact. 2. Duplexer Mounting Method: Command Strips Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic 19

20 3. Radio Transceiver Mounting Method: Command Strips Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic The back of the radio transceiver (Bao model) is oddly shaped and this will require an impression to be cut out of the foam where the radio is placed. The cut should be no deeper than ½ CM Battery Mounting Method: Command Strips Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic 20

21 5. 2M Battery Mounting Method: Command Strips Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic Note: For launch the orientation of the battery was altered, this is not a necessary change to make, either orientation is suitable. 6. Motor Battery Mounting Method: Command Strips Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic 21

22 7. Microphone Mounting Method: None. Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: N/A, location was never established, microphone was last minute addition and was thrown into the compartment. 22

23 8. LEDS Mounting Method: Glue, ensuring to seal the hole as well. Board Orientation: Bottom, facing down. Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary. LEDs 23

24 9. Raspberry Pi Camera Mounting Method: Screws (4x). Board Orientation: Bottom, facing down. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-4/5 For dimensions on the black camera casing see DAQCS documentation. A shallow (1/10 inch) impression the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the casing are to be cut into the bottom of the layer. Screw holes through the layer can be made by simply pressing the screws through the layer. The camera ribbon cable then needs to be put through the foam. Disconnect the ribbon cable at the adapter end so that the cable is just a thin plastic ribbon. Using a long blade box cutting blade, cut a slit into the foam approximately the width of the ribbon cable. The ribbon should have no issue protruding through the slit. The ribbon should not be bent at a 90 degree angle. The camera can also be redundantly attached to the foam using the command strips, however for that the back of the casing may need to be sanded down to a flat profile. 10. NTSC Camera Mounting Method: Glue. Board Orientation: Bottom, facing down. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-3/4 24

25 A hole must be drilled through the board to allow the camera to fit through. The camera end opposite the lens is edged and so the camera can be fitted into the hole without completely going through the hole. The hole must be a tight fit to prevent the camera lens from rotating out of focus. The hole can be drilled with a standard drill bit (at a sub-sized diameter) and then sanded down to the tight fit diameter. The back (internal) end of the camera can be glued to the foam to prevent motion. 11. ATV Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic Note: The ATV was placed on top of an aluminum mesh heat sink. The heat sink disk with an outer diameter of 16 inches, inner diameter of 12 inches, and a small connection protruding from the inner perimeter that connects to the bottom of the ATV. 25

26 (d.) M : COMMS Coupling Layer Integration No components are required to be integrated with this component. (e.) M : Motor Layer Integration 1. Motor Mounting Method: Screws and Inserts Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic Note: The hole diameters are according to the innate motor screws, not counting for the inserts. See DAQCS documentation for insert diameters (will need to bore out the hole further most likely). 26

27 2. Raspberry Pi Stacks with Batteries Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic Note: The pictures provided below do not include the physical Raspberry Pi HATs; pictured below are the batteries. The batteries are embedded into the foam layer, at a depth of approximately 3/10 inch. The Raspberry Pi HATs sit directly atop the batteries and so that batteries only need to be embedded into the foam enough so that the Pi HATs mate with the top of the foam layer. Pi HAT Locations Pi HAT Locations 27

28 3. COMMS PCB Board Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-Schematic 4. OSD Board Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-Schematic 28

29 5. GRSS Board with Battery Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Top, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Top-Schematic The GRSS battery is located directly beneath the board. The area directly beneath the board will need to be dug up to allow the battery to sit internally, and the board to sit flush with the foam. The approximate depth of the cut will be 8/10. 29

30 (f.) M : DAQCS Coupling Layer Integration 1. Raspberry Pi Cameras Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Side, External. Board Location Callout: M Side-2/3 M Side-6/7 For dimensions on the black camera casing see DAQCS documentation. A shallow (1/10 inch) impression the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the casing are to be cut into the bottom of the layer. Screw holes through the layer can be made by simply pressing the screws through the layer. The camera ribbon cable then needs to be put through the foam. Disconnect the ribbon cable at the adapter end so that the cable is just a thin plastic ribbon. Using a long blade box cutting blade, cut a slit into the foam approximately the width of the ribbon cable. The ribbon should have no issue protruding through the slit. The ribbon should not be bent at a 90 degree angle. The camera can also be redundantly attached to the foam using the command strips, however for that the back of the casing may need to be sanded down to a flat profile. 30

31 2. NTSC Cameras Mounting Method: Glue. Board Orientation: Side, External. Board Location Callout: M Side-1/2 M Side-5/6 A hole must be drilled through the board to allow the camera to fit through. The camera end opposite the lens is edged and so the camera can be fitted into the hole without completely going through the hole. The hole must be a tight fit to prevent the camera lens from rotating out of focus. The hole can be drilled with a standard drill bit (at a sub-sized diameter) and then sanded down to the tight fit diameter. The back (internal) end of the camera can be glued to the foam to prevent motion. 31

32 3. LEDs Mounting Method: Glue, ensuring to seal the hole as well. Board Orientation: Side, External. Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary, however was place: M Side-7/8 M Side-3/4 4. External Sensors Mounting Method: Glue, ensuring to seal the hole as well. Board Orientation: Side, External. Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary, however was place: M Side-8/1 M Side-3/4 32

33 (g.) M : DAQCS Layer Board Integration 1. APRS Mounting Method: Plastic Holder and Hot Glue. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-7/8. The APRS is housed in a plastic cylinder similar to the plastic holders that camera film comes in. A small hole was drilled at the top to let the APRS antenna stick through (to prevent shielding). The APRS was maintained in the holder using tape. The plastic holder was fused to the foam using hot glue. It is recommended that this method be amended in future iterations. 2. APRS Battery Mounting Method: Command Strips. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-Schematic 33

34 3. DAQCS PCB Board Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-Schematic Mount Holes DAQCS PCB missing from picture. 4. GPS Mounting Method: Command Strips. Board Orientation: Up, External. Board Location Callout: M Top-5/6 Routing the GPS wires through the layer will require a small hole. 34

35 5. Motor Controller Mounting Method: Command Strips and Screws. Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal. Board Location Callout: M Bottom-Schematic Motor Controller not shown in picture. 6. Buzzer Mounting Method: Command Strips. Board Orientation: Up, External. Board Location Callout: M Top-7/8 Routing the buzzer wires through the layer will require a small hole. 35

36 7. LEDs Mounting Method: Glue. Board Orientation: Up, External. Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary. LEDs 8. NTSC Camera Mounting Method: Glue. Board Orientation: Up, External. Board Location Callout: M Top-5/6. 36

37 A hole must be drilled through the board to allow the camera to fit through. The camera end opposite the lens is edged and so the camera can be fitted into the hole without completely going through the hole. The hole must be a tight fit to prevent the camera lens from rotating out of focus. The hole can be drilled with a standard drill bit (at a sub-sized diameter) and then sanded down to the tight fit diameter. The back (internal) end of the camera can be glued to the foam to prevent motion. 9. Raspberry Pi Camera Mounting Method: Screws. Board Orientation: Up, External. Board Location Callout: M Top-1/8. For dimensions on the black camera casing see DAQCS documentation. A shallow (1/10 inch) impression the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the casing are to be cut into the bottom of the layer. Screw holes through the layer can be made by simply pressing the screws through the layer. The camera ribbon cable then needs to be put through the foam. Disconnect the ribbon cable at the adapter end so that the cable is just a thin plastic ribbon. Using a long blade box cutting blade, cut a slit into the foam approximately the width of the ribbon cable. The ribbon should have no issue protruding through the slit. The ribbon should not be bent at a 90 degree angle. The camera can also be redundantly attached to the foam using the command strips, however for that the back of the casing may need to be sanded down to a flat profile. 37