How to erect a fence FREE

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Dustin Garrison
6 years ago
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1 How to erect a fence FREE

2 How to erect a fence This guide takes you through the process of erecting a timber fence. Some reasonable DIY skills are needed and, depending on the size of your garden, could take a weekend to complete. As the posts and fence panels are quite heavy it is recommended that two people undertake this task. Top tips Always make sure your proposed fence complies with planning regulations ring your local council for advice. Note that planning permission is required for any fence over 2m high. One of the most common disputes between neighbours concerns where the boundaries lie and who is responsible for their upkeep. If you are unsure, check your title deeds you can get a copy from HM Land Registry. If you see T marks on the plan, then these point in the direction of the owner who has to maintain the wall, fence or hedge. Tools for the job Claw hammer Saw Set of screwdrivers Sledge hammer Spade Spirit level Tape measure Varnish brush Materials for the job Fence posts Fence panels Gravel boards Quick setting concrete String Timber battens (post supports) Weedkiller (if applicable) Wood preservative Wooden pegs

3 1. Choose the right type of fence You need to decide what size and style of fencing suits your needs. There is a wide range to choose from, including: Closeboard fencing Overlapping vertical boards of timber. This is the strongest and heaviest panel. It offers complete privacy and is ideal for boundary fencing. Overlap fencing Overlapping horizontal timber boards. An economical fence that offers high levels of privacy. Pallisade A traditional picket type fence which still gives visibility while offering good security. Trellis This can be used on its own as open screen fencing or as a decorative panel on top of solid fence panels. 2. Choose the right posts Before buying your posts, decide if you want wooden or concrete and whether to set them in concrete or use post supports. Post supports are metal containers that are dug into, or fixed onto, the ground (Figs. 1 and 2). Concrete posts make sure the fence is sturdy, but do require a fair amount of work. Wooden posts are buried in the ground, so there is a slightly higher risk that they will rot. Metal post supports overcome some of these problems, and enable you to erect a fence relatively quickly (Figs. 1 and 2). 3. Calculate the post lengths Fig. 1 Bolt down post socket To work out the length of the posts to buy you need to decide on the finished height of your fence. If you are setting wooden posts in concrete you will need 8ft posts for a 6ft (1.8m) fence i.e. 2ft (0.6m) longer than the height of the fence. Alternatively, if you use bolt-down post sockets (Fig. 1) or post spikes (Fig. 2), you will need 6ft posts for a 6ft fence. If you use post spikes remember to check for pipes and electric cables in the ground as they go down to a depth of 18 inches. Use 4in x 4in posts for fences of 6ft and over, or 3in x 3in posts for anything under 6ft. 4. Calculate how many panels Fence panels are nearly always 6ft (1.8m) wide. Measure the length of fencing required and divide this measurement by the width of the panel e.g. for a 36ft fence, 36ft divided by 6ft = 6 panels. Top tip: You can also use gravel boards to create a protective barrier between your fence and the ground. These can be wood or concrete and should be installed between the fence posts at ground level. Always add one more fence post to the number of fence panels needed, so that you have enough posts to support both ends of the fence. Fig. 2 Post spike

4 5. Prepare to start Before starting, clear away any vegetation and treat the area with weedkiller. Most fence panels and wooden posts are pre-treated to prevent rot and insect attack, but it is a good idea to treat any sawn end with an all-purpose wood preservative. Use a string line and pegs to mark out where the fence will go (Fig. 3) and mark the position of the first post. 6. Use metal spikes as supports Make a pilot hole using a metal spike, rod or bar. It is important to first check the location of any water pipes or power cables. If in doubt, check with your local authority. Place a piece of scrap timber into the socket of the metal spike and use a sledge hammer to drive the spike into the pilot hole until the top of the socket is level with the ground. Stones and hard ground can make it difficult to drive the post in vertically, so use a spirit level as you hammer it in to make sure the post stays vertical. Buy 600mm spikes for 4ft fences and 750mm spikes for anything higher. Alternatively, sockets with flat square bases (bolt-down post sockets) can be bolted into concrete (Fig. 1). 7. Fix your posts in concrete The holes for the posts should be three times as wide as the post. For a 4in post the hole should be at least 12in wide. The holes should be 2ft deep. Following your string line, dig a hole for each post using a post spade or a post-hole borer, which can be hired. To save having to lift a heavy panel into position every time you want to move to the next post, use a wooden batten cut to 6ft as a guide. With the post in place, ram broken brick or stone hardcore into the base of the hole to support the end of the post. Use a spirit level to make sure the post stays vertical. The concrete could be specially mixed but it is easier to use post concrete. Normally, the hole is half-filled with water and the powder mix is poured on top, but check with the instructions on the bag. The concrete should be just above ground level. Trowel the surface smooth, sloping the concrete away from the post to let water run off (Fig. 4). Fig. 3 Use a string to mark the boundary line and ensure all posts are in line. Fig. 4 Smooth offf the concrete with a slope away from the post to let water run off. Support the post with two timber battens while the concrete dries.

5 Check the post is vertical on two adjacent sides with a spirit level. Then prop it up with one or two timber battens to hold it in position while the concrete sets (Fig. 4). Pre-mixed concrete sets in a few minutes, so work quickly. Work along the fence line, making sure that the posts are aligned with each other as well as upright. Leave the concrete to harden for at least at hour before attaching the fencing panels. 8. Fix the fence panels It is important to keep the fencing panels off the ground to prevent rot, either by adding treated gravel boards along the bottom or leaving at least 100mm gap under each panel. Screw the panels to the posts using two or three U-shaped post clips per post (Fig. 5). Use stainless steel screws to prevent rusting. Once the panels are all in place, if wooden posts are used, trim the tops of each post so they are all the same height and screw on a post cap drill a hole in the cap first to prevent splitting (Fig. 6). Fig. 5 Screw the fence panels to the posts using two or three post clips per panel. Fig. 6 Post cap decorative cap fixed to the top of the wooden post. It also prevents water penetration into the end grain of the post. 9. Make your fence look level on a sloping site If your fence is on a sloping site, keep the panels horizontal and fill the angled gap under each panel by cutting a gravel board to fit or building a low retaining wall directly under the fence. This will ensure the fence looks natural and level, especially if it runs along side your house, a garage or an out building.

6 Planning your next Project The Bunnings leaflets are designed to help you through your home projects. They ll give you the right information on what materials you ll need, how to get the job done and tips and ideas for achieving the best result. If you d like more advice, come in and discuss the project with one of our experts. PLEASE NOTE: As far as the law permits, Bunnings excludes liability in relation to the statements in this leaflet. BUKI P17012

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