Infinity DNA200 Build Instructions

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Allan Domenic Ray
6 years ago
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Infinity DNA200 Build Instructions NOTE: these instructions are intended for modders who are already familiar with the basics of modding - who have experience with wiring a DNA board, a 510

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible and have no liability regarding your safety following these instructions and attempting the build is at your own risk.

1 Infinity DNA200 Build Instructions NOTE: these instructions are intended for modders who are already familiar with the basics of modding - who have experience with wiring a DNA board, a 510 connector, and working with batteries. The instructions are meant to be a guide only, customize the build to your liking. DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible and have no liability regarding your safety following these instructions and attempting the build is at your own risk. If you have not educated yourself on the proper handling and use of li-polymer batteries just.stop.now. as you re not only a danger to yourself, but also potentially to others. PERMISSIONS: feel free to use my Infinity case to make mods for yourself, for friends and family, and for commercial sales. However, do not use my custom Infinity welcome screen or mislead anyone into thinking I did the build for your mod. You may credit me as the designer of the case, but it stops there. 1

Infinity versions The case height is the requirement for the front surface parts (the fire switch is positioned above the board), the DNA200 board, and the top/bottom 3mm wall thickness, so doesn t

V1: 98.9mm x 31mm x 43.5mm. Battery space = 79mm x 21mm x 25mm.

2 Infinity versions The case height is the requirement for the front surface parts (the fire switch is positioned above the board), the DNA200 board, and the top/bottom 3mm wall thickness, so doesn t change between the versions. The battery space for height includes +7mm for bottom clearance of the balance connector (the lipo pack is seated behind the board, above the onboard balance connector). V1: 98.9mm x 31mm x 43.5mm. Battery space = 79mm x 21mm x 25mm. The lipo packs that I have worked with and fit within this space include Turnigy nano-tech 3S 950mAh 25C, Fullymax 3S 900mAh 30C, and Maxamps 3S 800mAh 40C. The Turnigy lipo pack is the biggest of the three and fits comfortably within the battery space. If you use a smaller lipo pack, insert foam tape or a few layers of electrical tape around the lipo pack to snug that smaller pack into place so it doesn t move about. V2: 98.9mm x 33.5mm x 53.5mm. Battery space = 79mm x 23.5mm x 35mm. The lipo pack that I have worked with and fits within this space is the Turnigy nano-tech 3S 1300mAh 25C and the ZOP 3S 1500mAh 20C. V3: 98.9mm x 38mm x 53.5mm. Battery space = 79mm x 28mm x 35mm. The lipo pack that I have worked with and fits within this space is the Maxamps 3S 1800mAh 100C and the ZOP 3S 1500mAh 40C. 2

3 Parts List: Infinity case ( DNA200 board 3S lipo pack that fits the Infinity version 510 connector plenty of depth space built in, so choose your fave 510 connector that has a 22mm cap Mitec MSW1202, or similar 12mm switch that doesn t have too long of a length inside the case 2x 4mm x 3mm magnets (alternately, you can stack a 4mm x 2mm plus a 4mm x 1mm together) 2x 6mm x 1mm magnets (used as a flange for the 4mm magnets) (Note1: I buy magnets at supermagnetman.com) (Note2: in lieu of using magnets, I have metal up/down buttons available at my shapeways shop - 3x #0 screws 6mm in length (for the DNA200 board screws) 4x #0 screws 7mm in length (for the case screws) (Note: I buy #0 screws (SR6001-ND) at digikey.com and cut to required length using bolt cutters) Misc: 14AWG wire silicone insulated preferred (output) 24AWG wire (fire switch) Black electrical tape Kapton tape Double-sided sticky foam tape Nippers Craft knife 3

4 Separating the front from the back Separate the case by using a pair of nippers to cut the supports between the front and back and also to cut the supports from the screen holder. 4

Use a craft knife to scrape off and remove the bumpies left on the surface from cutting the supports off as these may interfere with the correct seating of the case and screen holder. With i.

I have received cases shipped to me perfect and exactly the dimensions I designed, or slightly too small, or slightly too big.

5 Use a craft knife to scrape off and remove the bumpies left on the surface from cutting the supports off as these may interfere with the correct seating of the case and screen holder. With i.materialise, and also shapeways, either a print is just right as I designed it and all parts fit together perfect, or holes/guides are an unch too little, or an unch too big. I have received cases shipped to me perfect and exactly the dimensions I designed, or slightly too small, or slightly too big. It only takes a few minutes and is an easy fix if the print is slightly too small or slightly too big. If the screen holder is slightly too small and the six legs (three on each side) don t fit onto the side edges of the DNA board, widen those six legs on the lower inside surface just a tiny bit using a craft knife. Use the craft knife to scrape off just an unch of surface plastic in this area. If the screen doesn t fit in the screen guide, widen each side of the guide by scraping the craft knife along each inside side edge until the screen just snugs into place. Make sure to do each side of the guide evenly else the screen won t be centered. Do NOT do anything to the top inside edge of the guide else the screen won t be centered. Don t overdo it as it only takes a very small amount of removing surface plastic in the above mentioned areas to get the holder and screen to fit properly if the print is a bit too small. The legs of the screen holder and the screen should snug into position and stay put. Same for the up/down button holes and the fire button hole in the case if the hole is a bit too small and the magnets or fire switch don t fit easily, use a craft knife to slightly widen the inside of the hole. If you ve applied too much paint in the holes, you ll need to scrape it off. If you ve applied too much paint in the flange area so that the bottom of the magnet flange doesn t sit flush with the underside surface of the case, you ll need to scrape off the paint. It s very important that the magnets move up and down easily and that the bottom side of the flange is flush with the underside of the front case. I usually get prints from imat where the recessed circle in the top of the case for the mm cap fits perfect, but I recently had a print where the diameter of this recessed area was a bit too small for the 22mm cap. Using the craft knife, I reamed along the inside rim to make it a bit wider. I ve also had prints where the top and bottom of the front case is too tight of a fit with the back case and because of this the front case bowed away from the back case a bit in the middle section. I scraped off a bit of the surface plastic from the top of the top screw posts and from the bottom of the bottom screw posts just until the two parts snugged together. 5

If the screen guide is slightly too wide and the screen doesn t snug into the guide and stay put, apply a piece of double-sided tape to the underside of the screen and position it into the guide.

6 If the screen guide is slightly too wide and the screen doesn t snug into the guide and stay put, apply a piece of double-sided tape to the underside of the screen and position it into the guide. If the legs of the screen holder are slightly too wide apart and don t snug into the side edges of the DNA board and stay put, either apply a dab of epoxy to the inside of each leg and hold in place against the board until the epoxy sets, or add a piece of tape to the side legs wrapping around the underside of the board. The tape is temporary and can be removed once the DNA200 board is positioned and screwed in place in the case. Make sure the screen is already properly seated and the cable is tucked under the holder before applying tape or epoxy to the legs of the holder. If you are not satisfied with the quality of the print contact i.materialise for a refund or a re-print. Be prepared to show them close-up pictures of the issues. If it s just a matter of the print being an unch too small or an unch too big, please use the steps above to get a perfect fit. 3D printing is what it is and we don t always get the tolerances we designed depending on the calibration of the equipment and material that imat uses. Washing and painting If you bought the white polyamide material, the powdery residue needs washed off the surface and out of holes and crevices prior to painting. I place the front and back of the case in a bowl of warm soapy water, scrub with a hand brush, rinse, and then let air dry. If you re not going to paint the case, you should at least seal and protect with a few coats of a polyurethane sealer. I use Rust-Oleum Ultimate Polyurethane as a sealer I brush on 3x light coats outside surface, 2x light coats inside surface. For primer prior to painting I brush on a thin coat of Vallejo Surface Primer. I don t always prime though when I paint with very dark colors as it absorbs into the plastic fairly evenly. With light colors, it s pretty much a must to apply a coat of primer so the paint will absorb evenly and not create blotchy areas. For paint I use Adirondack acrylic paint dabbers and Tim Holtz distressed paint acrylic dabbers I brush on 3x light coats outside surface, 2x light coats inside surface. For the first two coats, I brush the paint on then wipe it off using a t-shirt rag. For the third coat, I brush it on and put the part aside until the paint is dry and then apply 3x poly coats outside surface, 2x poly coats inside surface. Be careful applying primer, paint, and poly in and around the holes and cutouts else the parts may not fit correctly. When the paint is still wet, I use a small dry paintbrush to swab out excess paint from the holes and edges. 6

Removing the onboard fire button top plate and actuator Insert the craft knife under the top plate of the onboard fire button, push up and lift the top plate off.

Securing the screen to the board Apply a dab of super glue between the cable and the board to secure the cable from being pulled from the ZIF connector and from

7 Removing the onboard fire button top plate and actuator Insert the craft knife under the top plate of the onboard fire button, push up and lift the top plate off. Remove the membrane actuator and contact plate. Alternately, use a pair of tweezers and just pull the membrane out. Securing the screen to the board Apply a dab of super glue between the cable and the board to secure the cable from being pulled from the ZIF connector and from getting crimped at the ZIF connector when bending the cable under the screen holder. Apply a piece of black electrical tape to the underside of the screen. This gives the screen an even overall black background. 7

Working with the lipo pack Solder the balance connector to the board and solder 24AWG

Place the lipo pack on top of the board with the underside of the board facing up.

Then cut the other wire where it meets the board.

8 Working with the lipo pack Solder the balance connector to the board and solder 24AWG wires to the board s fire button holes wires need placed on the underside of the board. Place the lipo pack on top of the board with the underside of the board facing up. Working with only one wire at a time (either the positive wire or the negative wire), cut the wire where it meets the board. Tin the bare wire end and solder it to the appropriate solder pad on the board. Then cut the other wire where it meets the board. Tin the bare wire end and solder it to the appropriate solder pad on the board. Wrap the bare wire ends, the onboard solder pads, and the balance tap solder legs with Kapton tape or apply liquid electrical tape. 8

Working with the screen holder Slide the screen through the hole in the holder and position the screen in its guide so that the top end of the screen butts

into the board. Assembly For this how-to build, I m working with Infinity v2 and with a Turnigy nano-tech 3S 1300mAh 25C lipo pack.

9 Working with the screen holder Slide the screen through the hole in the holder and position the screen in its guide so that the top end of the screen butts into the top inside edge of the guide and the cable end lies under the holder gently bended accordion style (gently bend the cable at the screen end to position it under the holder). Push down on the screen holder near the top center and bottom center in the tact switch area so that the holder seats between the tact switches and snugs into the board. Assembly For this how-to build, I m working with Infinity v2 and with a Turnigy nano-tech 3S 1300mAh 25C lipo pack. You can either apply liquid electrical tape to the top plate of the up/down onboard tact switches, or apply a layer of Kapton tape to the underside of the flange magnet. I ve not had issues with these small magnets attracting to the metal plate of the tact switches and popping out of place, so have used Kapton tape. 9

Insert the magnets with attached flange into their holes in the case (you ll need metal that attracts magnets or just use a spare 6mm magnet on the front surface to keep the magnets in place on the

Insert the switch into its hole and screw the nut on. Position the switch so that the solder legs are vertical (this will give more space side-to-side for the output wires).

10 Insert the magnets with attached flange into their holes in the case (you ll need metal that attracts magnets or just use a spare 6mm magnet on the front surface to keep the magnets in place on the underside without them attracting to each other and popping out of place). If using a Mitec MSW1202 switch, cut the solder legs to about 3 or 4mm long. Insert the switch into its hole and screw the nut on. Position the switch so that the solder legs are vertical (this will give more space side-to-side for the output wires). Insert the DNA board into its position in the case, then screw a #0, 6mm long screw in each of the screw slots of the DNA board. It s important that the screws are no longer than 6mm else you may get a screw dent on the front surface if screwing the screw all the way in. Do not overtighten the lower screw close to the USB else the board in that area may tilt from not having an opposite sided screw and cause the USB to slant (which will be noticeable on the front side of the case). Note: after inserting the board and screen into place, if there is a gap between the front of the screen and the case, add another layer of electrical tape to the underside of the screen. 10

Solder the fire switch wires from the board to the solder legs of the switch. Pay attention to where the solder iron is at all times you don t want burn marks on your pretty case.

11 Solder the fire switch wires from the board to the solder legs of the switch. Pay attention to where the solder iron is at all times you don t want burn marks on your pretty case. Measure the height of the lipo pack you are using (don t include the height of the battery/balance wires), add 7mm to that and mark that height with a pencil on the inside of the back case. Alternately, just insert the lipo pack into the back case with the wires loosely resting on the bottom of the case so that the pack itself is about 7mm above the bottom inside, and mark with a pencil along the back of the case across the top of the pack. Cut 3 or 4 pieces foam tape about ½ wide x the width of the inside back, place the pieces one on top of the other and position along that pencil mark. This will help the lipo pack stay in place without riding up in to the 510 connector area. If the lipo pack is loose side-to-side inside the case, apply a layer of foam tape to the side of the pack so the pack snugs into the side of the case. Solder 14AWG wires to the ground solder ring and center pin. Cut the wires a bit long as you will trim them to the appropriate length later. Screw the 510 in place. If you have the appropriate tap, use it to thread the 510 hole. If you don t have a tap and having a difficult time in threading the 510 into its hole, just ream an unch with the craft knife to widen the hole. Before inserting the 510 connector into its hole in the case, I first apply a bit of Araldite epoxy (using a round toothpick) on the underside of the 22mm cap, then screw the 510 into its hole. Insert the ground solder ring, screw the nut on. Make sure the wire doesn t cover the screw hole or interfere with the post from the front case that will be inserted into this area. Screw the 510 center pin assembly in place. 11

that top area when closing the case), cut the wires to length, tin the wire ends, and solder in place.

12 Position the back case next to the front case, maneuver the 510 wires over their respective solder pads on the board (best to keep the wiring length as short as possible else you may have trouble with the wires snugging into that top area when closing the case), cut the wires to length, tin the wire ends, and solder in place. Solder the wires to the board s solder pads at a bit of an angle as shown below so they clear each side of the fire switch housing. 12

Remove the cover of the foam tape and position the lipo pack on it making sure the bottom of the lipo pack rests against the onboard balance connector and the top of the lipo pack has clearance from

13 Place a piece of foam tape over the solder legs of the fire switch and along the backside of the board. This will keep the lipo pack off the board and also protected from the solder legs of the fire switch. Remove the cover of the foam tape and position the lipo pack on it making sure the bottom of the lipo pack rests against the onboard balance connector and the top of the lipo pack has clearance from the 510 s center pin. If there is a gap between the lipo pack and inside back wall of the case, add a piece of foam tape or a few layers of electrical tape along the back side of the lipo pack. If there is a gap side-to-side between the lipo pack and side walls of the back case, add a piece of foam tape or a few layers of electrical tape along the side of the lipo pack. Press the front case and back case together making sure all wires are tucked inside. 13

threading in the top and bottom screws and also keeps the front case aligned with the back case.

14 You ll need 4x #0 screws 7mm in length to screw the front to the back. I find using an Irwin quick grip clamp to tightly hold the front and back together helps with threading in the top and bottom screws and also keeps the front case aligned with the back case. Without the clamp, the front case wants to pull away from the back case a bit when threading in the screws. Enjoy your new mod! Mamu 14

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