Word Clock. Assembly Manual

Transcription

1 Word Clock Assembly Manual DougsWordClocks.com Pty Ltd March 2014 V3.0 1

2 Copyright The Word Clock Design, PCB layout, Manual, and Firmware is Copyright , by DougsWordClocks.com Pty Ltd. Welcome Thanks for deciding to make this great little clock project. I have really enjoyed designing and developing it over the last few years, and I am confident that you will enjoy making it. YouTube videos This manual covers the latest version of the WordClock It uses a custom manufactured surface mount board and is significantly simpler to make than the previous versions. We no longer use LED strips for our 30cm clocks. You may find the following YouTube videos of interest that shows the construction of the previous version of the clock ; As we develop new videos they will be presented on the site

3 Parts List The first thing you need to do is to verify that you have all of the necessary components required to assemble your clock Here is the complete parts list, please note that some components do change depending on the style of your clock. Enclosure Side enclosure supports (3mm Black) 50mm x 270mm 2 Top & Bottom enclosure supports (3mm Black pre-drilled) 50mm x 264mm (50mm x 284mm Chaos) 2 Numbered Baffles (3mm Black Precut) 20mm x 264mm 7 Vertical Baffles (3mm Black pre-cut) 20mm x 25mm (Approx) 14 PCB Support Sheet (Pre cut 3mm White) 264mm x 264mm 1 Rear Cover (3mm Black) 270mm x 270mm 1 Rear Cover Mounts (3mm black) 20mm x 50mm 4 (cut from 20 x 200 piece) Enclosure Rivets 5mm x 10mm Push in plastic rivets 4 Assembly Spacers (temporary manufacture supports) 20mm x 30mm (approx.) 8 3

4 Face 300mm x 300mm Perspex sheet (3mm clear) 1 295mm x 295mm Laser Cut Card Stencil 1 300mm x 300mm Perspex Face Mount (essentially a large surround with a massive square hole in it (3mm Black) 270mm x 270mm Perspex Face Support the contents of the above hole this has light wells cut for each of the lit words(3mm black) Cover captive screws (Silver) (two part 5mm) 4 Diffuser Material Lightweight paper (provided by user) Electronics 264mmx264mm Double sided Clock board 1 Button board 1 6mm pushbuttons 2 3mm screws 4 Hexagonal Spacers Khz Quartz Crystal (3mm Dia x 6mm tube) 1 0.1F Backup Capacitor 1 2.1mm Power Connector 1 Board Mounts (small acrylic offcuts) 4 Additionally, you will need some plastic glue which is compatible with your perspex sheets talk to your local Acrylic supplier or sign maker for the correct glue. I use "IPS weld-on #16 Solvent cement for acrylic or Acribond Acrylic Solvent" for my own projects. Some people have used Super Glue in the past While this does work, the fumes from the use of large amounts of Super Glue are damaging to your health, and they should be avoided. 4

5 Enclosure Construction Our enclosure is made from 3mm Perspex sheets that are held together using an acrylic adhesive. As mentioned in the parts list, you will need some plastic glue which is compatible with your Perspex sheets talk to your Perspex supplier for the correct glue. It is a solvent that actually dissolves the Acrylic material that the Perspex is made from so it ensures that the joints are extremely strong. Be careful to work in a well-ventilated area to protect yourself from fumes. All employees at DougsWordClocks are expected to use correct personal protective equipment when working with Acrylic Solvents This includes; protective coveralls to protect skin from adhesive contact; Safety glasses to protect the eyes from accidental solvent contact; WARNING Fumes given off by most Acrylic solvents are not healthy to breathe. Ensure that when working with the glue, adequate ventilation is available. Please read and observe all safety warnings printed on the Acrylic solvent. These solvents can be highly toxic and give off strong fumes. Start by interlocking the assembly spacers together to form a set of four 20mm in height self-supporting spacers. These are used to support the front of the Internal LED support off the workbench by 20mm to allow space for the baffles to be installed. Locate the Internal support sheet (3mm pre-cut rectangles White) remove the protective paper, Examine the sheet and identify the three openings which are the top, and the largest opening on the second line which is the word Quarter Locate the Top plate Pre cut with 4 holes 5

6 Locate the Bottom plate Pre cut with 4 holes, button holes and power socket holes Lay the internal support sheet on top of the assembly spacers (The spacers allow the support sheet to be placed 20mm above the working surface allowing room for the baffles to be installed later on) Ensure that the large cutout is on the RIGHT HAND side during assembly. Lay the top, bottom and two sides around the edge of the frame as shown in the diagram below:. You are currently working with the rear (back) of the clock facing up. 6

7 Using the Acrylic solvent, glue the top, bottom and sides to the internal support sheet, forming the clock enclosure. Please ensure that the words etched onto the bottom of the bottom plate are on the outside of the clock, and the button and power holes are above the support sheet, not below.. The photo on the right is of an older style clock frame, but should be helpful in visualising the assembly. When gluing, use a thin bead of glue along the entire edge of the sheet to be attached. Be careful with the glue to ensure that it does not flow from the container over everything, making a mess. Let the adhesive cure for a little while (about minutes), and then it is time to install the baffles. 7

8 Gently lift the frame up from the workbench, and turn it over, KEEPING THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME CLOSEST TO YOU Locate the baffle components and remove the protective paper from them. Install the numbered horizontal baffles from 1 7 from the top of the frame to the bottom. Ensure that the etched numbers are located on the LEFT side of the frame Install spacers between the baffles into the laser cut recesses. Once you are happy with the placement of the baffles, apply glue to the edges of the baffles, and the sides of the LED mounting board, and glue the baffles into place on the LED mounting board. Again wait a few hours for the glue to set completely. This largely completes the assembly of the enclosure...once the glue has completely set, we need to install the circuit board inside of the newly created light box enclosures. 8

9 Once the adhesive has cured, turn the clock over, and install the circuit board. The circuit board has been provided with all of the surface mount components pre-installed to simplify assembly. Simply place the board onto the back of the frame and secure. The board may be secured using either 4 scraps of acrylic located on the sides as whoe, or 5 x 3mm nulon screws. If using nylon screws, please tap the holes in the mounting board using a M3 Tap. Photo of the rear of the clock. Note that the current boards do not have the LEDs mounted on the rear around the edges. 9

10 Next, mount the power connector socket.and wire it up to the board. The centre pin of the power connector should be wired to the the + connector as shown in the diagram. Turn the clock over and plug it in It should run a self test where every word is illuminated in turn The Power LED mounted on the back of the board should also illuminate. Next, solder the 32768Khz Quartz crystal into place as shown. Locate the 0.1F SuperCapacitor and solder it as shown. The negative (-) lead of the capacitor can be identified by a stamped in a circle on one leg. It is small, so you may need to look closely! 10

11 Finally install the two long pushbuttons onto the button board Mount the board into the frame at the bottom, paying attention to the orientation of the up (+) and Down (-) buttons. Wire it up to the main board as shown in the diagram: Verify that when the (+) button is pressed, the clock time advances, and when the (-) button is pressed, the clock time goes backwards. YAY!!! Run inside and show your spouse and enjoy a coffee! Next, we need to install the face and back. 11

12 Back: Locate the back of the clock Place it onto the workbench, and attach the rear mounts (20mm x 50mm acrylic rectangles using adhesive. Locate the mounts inset from the edge of the rear by 3mm. Once the back is dry (seriously.. You need to wait for at least 30 minutes before putting pressure onto these mounting tabs), mount the back onto the frame, and using the preexisting holes in the top and bottom as guides, enlarge the holes to 5mm, and use the black plastic rivets to hold the back in place. 12

13 Face: The face of the clock is made up from a sandwich of components from the LEDs outwards: Internal face support grid (Black) Diffuser A sheet of light weight paper Face word Stencil (Laser cut card) Front Acrylic sheet (Clear) Start by placing the face edge support (The large square with the 4 mounting holes located in the corners) on the bench, and lay the frame on top of it with the LEDs facing downwards Apply a line of glue around the edge to attach the face support, ensuring that it is located centrally on the frame. Let the adhesive cure. 13

14 Turn the clock over, remove the protective paper from the front of the face edge support and place the internal face support grid onto the top of the baffles This provides a flat surface to mount the face onto. There is no need to glut this in place. Obtain some white paper to use as a diffuser (I use grease proof baking paper), cut it to size and tape it onto the face be careful not to use tape where you would see it through the face stencil. 14

15 Locate the Face Word Stencil, and place it on top of the paper diffuser installed previously (Chaos face shown) Locate the face acrylic sheet, remove the protective paper and place it on top of the completed clock Use the supplied metal captive screws in each corner to hold the face together. Remove the protective cover from the face, mount the clock on the wall, set the time, and have a party! 15