RoR Step-by-Step Review * Caudron Air Racer 1:32 Scale W ms Bros. Kit # Review

Transcription

1 RoR Step-by-Step Review * Caudron Air Racer 1:32 Scale W ms Bros. Kit # Review The French Caudron firm was among the pioneer manufactures, dating back to circa During World War One, they produced a series of military aircraft including trainers and twin engine battle planes. In 1933, Technical Director and Chief Engineer of Avions Caudron, Marcel Riffard conceived the slim monoplane racers which evolved into the types C.450 and C.460. These machines participated very successfully in competition. The Caudron had the distinction of being the first aircraft to better the Thompson Trophy speed mark established by Jimmy Doolittle in the 1932 Gee Bee R-1. For the Modeler: This is a Williams Brothers; 1:32 scale Caudron Air Racer 1:32 model kit # These beat American made kits are presently out of production but they are still easy to find at online auctions and garage sales. The kit features ~40 pieces molded in blue plastic, a clear canopy and a waterslide decal sheet, and instructions in English. Any of four different versions of the racer can be finished using different markings. Finished overall dimensions are; Length: 8.75", Width: 4.26". Top Speed = As long as it takes to fall from the bench to the floor. Engine = Front Cylinder only producing 0.0 hp. Prop = Fixed Pitch Free Spinning. Have fun and keep learning Covered in this Review: If you want to perfect your build; basic construction; preparing parts for better finishing; adhesive selections and applications; seam identification and repairs; paint selection and application; alternate assembly sequences; Scratch building an air scoop; how to open up the wing flaps, scoops, air cooler and exhaust ports for realism; building the version with retractable landing gear; using brass stock for a realistic pitot tube; adding realism to the canopy with floor polish and masking techniques; painting wood tones for floor boards; detailing and weathering the engine with a silver pencil and sandpaper; painting the polished parts with Alclad paints; detailing the cockpit; decal preparation and application; making the air coolers from foil; are all fully examined in this 18 page, full-color Step-by-Step review.

2 Fig 01) Here are the kit s contents. I started the kit by washing and rinsing all the parts to remove any mold release or foreign debris that could contaminate paint. Below are the parts separated into groups. Fig 02& 03) Cockpit parts and Wing and Stabilizer parts (right). Fig 04) Engine parts and (Fig 05 right) Landing Gear parts

3 Fig 06) Fuselage parts Fig 08) The Oil Coolers are molded into the fuselage and I decided to drill them out. Using a #75 drill, I drilled the Oil Cooler holes. Fig 09 & 10) Since I am building No that raced in Los Angeles in 1936, I have to open up the retractable landing gear wells in the fuselage and the wings.

4 Fig 11) To remove the panels, I use the back side of an X-Acto #11 blade. (Fig 12 right) Draw the blade along the depression using light pressure. It takes time and patience. Don t rush it or you risk deforming the panel. Fig 13) I did the same thing to each fuselage half. I also removed the air exit below the cowling. Fig 14) All openings have been removed from the Fuselage and wings. I sanded each opening with 400 grit sand paper.

5 Fig 15) Drilled the exhaust holes using a #53 drill Fig 16 & 17) I removed the molded-in carb air scoop so I could have an opening there. I opened up the Carb Air Opening using an X-Acto blade, then added a piece of 1/8 styrene tubing over the opening. Fig 18 & 19) I removed the end of the Pitot Tube and replaced it with.06 brass tubing using thick super glue.

6 Fig 20) Glued the Wheel wells into the fuselage half s using Testors liquid cement. Fig 21) Glued the crank case half s together and the cylinder to the crank case using Testors Liquid Cement. Fig 22 (right) Glued the side of the seat to the bottom/back using Testors Liquid Cement. Fig 23) Glued the Landing Gear forks to the gear legs using Testors Liquid Cement. Fig 24 (right) Glued the tire half s together using Testors Liquid Cement.

7 Fig 25) Glued the wing half s together using Testors Liquid Cement. I place small clamps along the seams and allowed to dry overnight. Fig 26) I always dip clear components in Future Floor Polish. This makes clear parts look better by removing any fine scratches. Start with a clean container, Future, and your part. Fill the container with Future trying to keep air bubbles from forming as you pour. Slowly dip the canopy into the bath of Future, then slowly remove it. Place it on a clean surface and cover it to keep dust off, but allow air in so it will dry. Make sure only one or two corners are touching the surface. This will allow access Future to run off. After about 5 minutes, I carefully move the canopy allowing access Future to flow away from the canopy. Fig 28) I painted the floor boards with Testors Acryl Wood Fig 29) Painted the engine with Testors Acryl Flat Black

8 Fig 30) Painted the Cockpit sides, Rear Bulkhead, Seat, and Instrument Panel with Testors Acryl Light Gray. Fig 31) The Propeller and Exhaust Stacks are aluminum color, and the base coat for this is painted Alclad Gloss Black. Fig 33, & 34) Painted the Air Tank, Flap Mechanism, and Control Cylinder, with Alclad Gloss Black. Fig 35) To weather the cylinders, I use a silver pencil, sand paper and a paint brush. First rub the silver pencil on the sand paper, then gently rub the paint brush in the fine silver dust. This is then brushed onto the cylinders giving an appearance of being weathered.

9 Fig 36) To finish the wood floor boards, I dry brushed Testors Acryl Dark Brown. This simulated wood grain. Fig 37) Painted the Rudder Bar and Stick with Testors Acryl Flat Black, then weathered with silver pencil. Fig 38 (right) Painted the tires with Testors Enamel Rubber Fig 39) Painted the throttle quadrant with Testors Enamel Silver, and glued the air tank, and flap control into the fuselage half s.

10 Fig 40) Glued the cockpit together using Testors Liquid Cement and thick super glue. Fig 41) Applied the instrument panel decal to the instrument panel. Fig 42 & 43) Glued the cockpit to the right fuselage half using thick super glue.

11 Fig 44) Glued the fuselage half s together using Testors Liquid Cement. The fuselage half s were held together with small clamps and allowed to dry overnight. Fig 45 & 46) Painted the Propeller and Exhaust Stacks with Alclad Chrome. Fig 47) Installed two pushrod tubes to the engine using thick super glue.

12 Fig 48) Filled the seams on the fuselage with Tamiya putty and allowed to dry overnight. Fig 49) Sanded the seams down with 400 grit sand paper Fig 50) Installed the pro shaft into the back of the engine, then glued the engine into the fuselage using Testors Liquid Cement. Fig 51(right) Glued the Cowl Nose onto the fuselage using Testors Liquid Cement.

13 Fig 52) Glued the wings and stabilizers onto the fuselage using Testors Liquid Cement Fig 53 & 54) Masking the canopy is simple. Don t try this until the Future has dried, typically overnight. I use Tamiya Tape, a sharp razor blade and a tooth pick. Start by applying a piece of tape to the canopy along one of the panel lines. In this case, I used the bottom of the canopy and let the rest overlap. Using a toothpick, burnish the tape to the canopy, then with a sharp razor blade, cut the tape along the panel line, and re-burnish. Continue this until the entire canopy is covered. Fig 55) Glued the canopy onto the fuselage using Micro Krystal Klear.

14 Fig 56) Filled the seam along the nose with Tamiya putty. Fig 57 & 58) After sanding the nose with 400 grit sandpaper, the airframe is ready for primer. Fig 59) The entire airframe has been sprayed with Tamiya fine primer.

15 Fig 61, & 63) I let the entire airframe dry overnight, then I painted the entire airframe with Testors Acryl Dark Blue. I painted the airframe, undercarriage doors, spinner, and Pitot Tube. Start by cleaning every surface with a damp paper towel or lint free rag. Then gently wipe every surface with a tack rag. The tag rag picks up very small particles and should be done just before painting. Fig 67 & 68) I let everything dry overnight again, then the next day I applied a coat of Future Floor Polish to all parts. This acts as a gloss base coat for the decals. I applied the Decals to the Airframe using the manufactures recommendations. The items I use to apply decals are a container of warm water, Microscale Micro Sol, a small paint brush to apply the Micro Sol, a razor blade for cutting out the decals, paper towel, tweezers, and the decals. Microscale Micro Sol. This product when applied to the decal will soften the decal so it sits perfectly onto the surface of the aircraft. To start the decal process, first carefully trim the decal away from the sheet. Next, place the decal into your warm water for approximately seconds then remove and place onto a dry paper towel. Depending on the decal, the adhesive may take several minutes to soften. After about 3 to 4 minutes, the decal slides on the backing paper. Carefully place into position on the aircraft. At this point, the decal can be moved around into the desired position. When you re satisfied, dab the paper towel onto the decal soaking up any water that may be on the surface.

16 Now apply the Microscale Micro Sol using the paint brush. Cover the entire decal and surrounding area. After about 3 minutes the decal will start to wrinkle up. Don t panic. This is normal as the decal softens. WORD OF CAUTION Do not attempt to move the decal now. You will be sorry. Trust me! While the decals were drying, I removed the masking from the canopy. Fig 69) To simulate the polished Oil Coolers, I cut pieces of Bare Metal Foil Aluminum to size. Fig 70 (right) I applied the bare metal foil to the oil coolers and burnished with a tooth pick. Fig 71) Painted the backside of the propeller with Testors Acryl flat black. Fig 72) Glued the landing gear doors to the gear legs using thick super glue. Fig 73 (right) Glued the Exhaust Stacks into the holes using thick super glue

17 Fig 74) Placed the tires onto the landing gear. No cement required so they can turn. Fig 75 (right) Glued the landing gear into the wings using thick super glue Fig 76) Glued the Propeller onto the engine shaft using thick super glue. Fig 77 85) The Caudron Racer is complete. This is #6 in my Williams Brothers Racing Series. Hope you enjoyed it. The kit went together really well with no surprises. I think anyone can build this kit if you take your time.

18 More About the Caudron Racer During 1934 the C.460s had difficulties with their retractable landing gear systems and that two were hastily fitted with wheel pants and strut fairings for use in the Coupe Deutsch race. For 1935 and improved type of mechanism had been installed. The C.450 retained the fixed landing gear however. Perhaps the most publicized of these Caudron Racers was serial number 6909, which was taken to Los Angeles, California during 1936 for the U.S. National Air Races. Flown by Michel Detroyat, the craft handily won both the Greve and Thompson Trophy races, in spite of having considerably less horsepower than many of the other entries. Indeed it might have well won the Shell Trophy also had the Caudron not been withdrawn as a gesture of good sportsmanship, reportedly after some sour grapes complaining by other pilots. A number were critical of the French entry on the grounds that it was unfair to send a government subsidized aircraft to the races. In point of fact, the Caudron was financed only by its airframe and engine manufacturers. Interestingly, some of the American racers were equipped with barrowed factory engines, and thus were directly subsidized! After being returned to France, No was employed in an attempt upon the women s absolute speed record, a record previously set in another Caudron. Unfortunately, 6909 suffered a catastrophic in flight failure, forcing Aviatrix Maryse Hilsz to parachute to safety. That ended the career of this particular craft. Summing up the performance of the remarkable racers, artist/historian Harry Robinson wrote in 1964: No modern aircraft of comparable weight or power has equaled the C.460 s 100, 500, and 1000 km records of August, Twice its power was needed to increase Delmotte s absolute speed of September, These results over vastly differing distances clearly demonstrates the unparalleled excellence on Ing. Marcel Riffard s beautiful Caudron C.460. Wing Span = 22 feet, 1 inch Length = 23 feet, 4 inches Top Speed = mph Engine = Renault Bengali ; 6 cylinders in line of 400 ch