WW04 BR. 25 Ton Low-Mac

Transcription

1 1 WW04 BR. 25 Ton Low-Mac History. The Lowmac, code name for a low machine wagon was the most popular of all the special wagons built by BR, totalling 510 examples. These wagons were spread over fourteen different diagrams (240 to 254) and thirty different lots, this kit covers diagram 242 Running Nos. and lots Dia. 2/242 Vac fitted, Lettered Lowmac EP, Lowmac SC Lot built B P W McLellan Total built 126 This kit covers Dia. 2/242 fitted with vac pipes and vac cylinders. Ref. Books: - British Railways Wagons The First half million By Don Rowland. ISBN British railways Goods wagons in Colour By Robert Hendry. ISBN X British Railway wagons, open and hoppers By G. gamble ISBN British Railway Wagons No.1, Open & Hoppers ISBN Web Reference

2 2 Parts list. Etch. 2 x split pins. 2 x coupling springs. 4 x coupling links 3-0.7mm wire W/M castings 4 x Axle box DW60 4 x Axlebox Base DW61 2 x Vac pipes DW33 2 x Detail set DW16a 2 x Brake cylinder DW29 2 x Brake X shaft DW62 8 x Brake shoe DW9 4 x Buffer DW65 2 x Brake piece (H) DW11 8 x Axlebox spring hanger DW63 2 x Handbrake shaft DW64 4 x Brake Yoke DW10 Items needed to complete this kit. 2 81/2 disc wheel sets, Slater s ref 7130 or Welcome Turned Steel Insulated wheels c/w ball bearings ( M&M can supply these if required ) buy on line at or contact direct using the contact details in the kit. Paint and Transfers Hints and Tips In order to build this kit you may find the following tools useful. A pair of tin snips or a Stanley knife to cut out the brass parts; flat and round files and centre punch or rivetting tool; a bending jig or steel rules; a pair of long nose pliers; a good soldering iron; solder and flux. M&M recommend Carr s fluxes and low melting point solder Before construction, please refer to as many photographs as possible.

3 3 Kit building instructions, 1. Take etched parts and push out rivet detail on buffer-beams (5), solebars (1) and sole-bar detail plates (4). 2. Cut out solebars (1) and bend top and bottom lips through 90 degrees (take your time here). The use of a set of folding angles would be found beneficial. (M&M market the proven Mustard Tools Device for a Vice in conjunction with the SolYbar). 3. Now repeat with the inner solebars (2). 4. Cut from etch the fourteen X cross members (6), and bend top and bottom lips to from U shape. 5. Now take wagon floor (3) (Note that the half etched dots on the top are to represent the countersunk screw/bolt detail and are not rivets) Keeping the planking uppermost bend down the side protrusions through 90 degrees, bend the ends to match the solebars, See Drawing 1 for steps 5 to 8 6. Take wagon under floors (10), mark a line 8mm from one end across the wide part of etch and cut along line. (As the under floor is too long). NB; - at this stage of construction it is recommended only to tack solder the parts together as this allows easy adjustment. 7. Take the under floor (10) and solder to the outer solebars so that the edge of the solebar is flush with the edge of the under floor on the slope part of solebar. 8. When step 7 is complete check that the floor fits and adjusts the bends as necessary (the floor ends should match the length of the solebars. 9. Take the buffer beams (5) fold one of the lips through 90 degrees and break the other lip off along the fold line. (This is best done using folding angles or steel rules held in a vice). Now take the piece which you ve broken off and solder to the inside of the folded lip, (tinning the pieces first will help) this will become the bottom of the buffer beam. 10. Next take the above buffer beams and solder to the wagon ends (adjust solebar length or floor length to enable a close fit), When soldered on, file away the excess buffer beam from above floor ends. 11. Now take twelve of the newly folded cross members (6) and file the tongue so as to make a snug fit into the inner solebar channels. Then when you have done this take four of them and solder them back to back to form two H cross-members, now solder to underside of floor up against inside of solebars, aligning with the double row of rivets on the outside of solebar at centre.

4 4 NB: Try to prevent soldering close to the tongue end as this area needs to be kept free to fit the inner solebars. Now repeat with other cross-members (6) so they align with the rivets on the solebars. See photo 1 & 2 NB: Note the use of a clothes peg to keep everything tight and true whilst you solder 12. Next take the inner solebars (2) and fit between buffer beams and up against cross members, solder in place. See photo 1 & Take the two remaining cross members trim to length and solder between inner solebars, aligning with the end cross members. See photo Take the V hangers (7) and solder to upper floor behind the bufferbeams, two at each end; they should be just inside the buffers. See photo 3,6 &7 15. Now tin the backs of the solebar plates and solder them to the solebars where they change angle, two on each side and note that they are handed and the rivets face outwards. See Photo 3 & 4

5 5 Also add the cross members at the outer ends, these should line up with the V hangers. See photo Next fit the four buffer castings (DW65) pips uppermost. Now Super Glue the coupling pocket casting to the buffer beam, also glue the makers plates and the load clips to the solebars.(these are on DW16a casting sprue ) 17. Take axle box castings(dw60) and two mounting pieces(dw61), cut one side off the mounting pieces and then cut the other side off the other two, so you should have two pairs, L/H and R/H. now fix the axlebox castings into the mounting pieces. See photo 5 & See Drawing 2

6 6 18. Next take the axlebox assemblies, fit bearings and wheel sets. Now take axlebox/wheel set assemblies and fit to slopping part of the floor up against the outer most cross members and check the wheel base as it should be 154mm (scale 22 feet)this is critical and care on this step will ensure a good result, when happy solder assemblies to floor. See photo 6 & Now fit the two handbrake cross shaft castings (DW64). Fix to the inside of the solebars locating in the holes. See Photo Now shape and fit the hand brake levers (8)see photo 9 and also the pin down bars (9) (NB: Once removed from the etch; before separating a single pin down bar, file the outer edges and clean the ends) See Photo 7a for profile & drawing 3 for position. 21. Next fit the eight U shaped axle box spring hanger castings(dw63), these go next to the axlebox's (note: - the outer ones will need trimming to length as these fit on top of the cross member). See photo 8 & Take the cast vac cylinders(dw29a) and assemble. Remove the side mounting plates as this then allows for fitting between inner solebars, fit the brake cross shafts(dw62) to the vac cylinders. 23. Now fit the rest of the brake gear, fit the two brake H pieces(dw11) under the axles, also fit eight brake shoes(dw9) (the inner ones fit to

7 7 the floor and the outer ones have to be shortened as these fit onto the cross members, then add the brake cross rig s(dw10) between the brake shoes and the H pieces. See photo 10 & Now add the vac pipes(dw33) See Photo 10 & Take some wire and bend to a shape and fit into the four slots on the upper side of the wagon floor. This makes the securing loops to tie down or chain the various loads the Lowmac wagon can carry. See Photo 14

8 8 Drawings Etch Plan Outer Sole Bars Wagon Floor Buffers Beams V Hangers Pin Down Bars Inner Sole Bars Sole Bar Details Plates X Cross Member Brake Levers Wagons Under Floors

9 9 Lowmac Kit Castings