Instructions to fit Emulator in place of floppy drive M.D.R.

Transcription

1 Instructions to fit Emulator in place of floppy drive M.D.R. Before starting, read through all the following instructions, and then when you do begin, read each number section before attempting that particular step. 1 Switch off the organ and remove the plug 2 Remove the music rest Use a No2 Phillips screwdriver unless stated otherwise. 3 Pull the organ away from the wall 4 Remove the 3 screws at the top of the back panel of the AR, one at each side and one in the centre at the same height. 4A From 19 on, if you intend to remove or lift the cover panel, then take both the screws with the yellow arrows out now. 5 Slide the top panel forward. It will move about an inch and can then be lifted clear. 6 You can then lift off the roll top cover, from its normally closed position. Page 1 An AR-Group Publication 2011

2 7 Being very careful not to drop them inside the organ, remove the 2 wing bolts, one each side as shown in these photos. 8 Remove the 7 black bolts with the square black washers from under the keyboards. There are 3 each side as shown in the picture and 1 in the centre. 9 Move the organ so that its back is about 4 6 inches away from the wall. You are about to raise the whole keyboard panel, which is quite heavy and this will allow it to lean back against the wall and prevent it going too far and straining any wires. 10 When you expose the inside of your AR, try to avoid touching any circuit boards or anything that that isn t part of the case or panels. Static electricity can harm these delicate parts. 11 Do not attempt to lift the instrument panel by the keys. Lift it by the panels at either side of the lower keyboard [see photo for L.H.S. Lift the R.H.S. In a similar manner from just above the M.D.R.] Be careful not to let it slip from your grasp and raise it just over 90º and lean it against the wall, ensuring that it will not topple forward. Page 2 An AR-Group Publication 2011

3 12 Remove the 4 screws securing the old M.D.R. There are 2 on each side that screw into the base as shown in the photograph with black and white arrows. 13 Remove the 2 multi plugs from the rear of the M.D.R. and it can then 2 more be hidden lifted at the free. front The small one, (4 pins, but 2 wires) which is the power cable is easier to disconnect. The 34 pin socket may prove to be more tricky, but it can be gently prised off. The connector is grey and the black portion is part of the M.D.R. so you can see where the divide is. Do not pull it by the cables. Tip: Tease one end and then ease the other end. 14 Take the M.D.R. to a separate table, and with a No1 Phillips screwdriver remove the 4 screws, (2 each side) which hold the support brackets in place. See Red arrows on M.D.R. 15 To fit these same brackets to the new Emulator, if they have supplied 4 small black screws, I recommend that you use these. The hole pattern is the same as the old M.D.R. (See photo of emulator sitting on top of old M.D.R. and the holes to use are indicated by White arrows.) Reuse the small rubber grommets, but put a 4 mm washer under the head of each of the 4 screws (see photos below) Do not overtighten the screw. If you don t have 4 mm washers, use the screws that you took out of the old M.D.R. and discard the black ones. Do not overtighten these screws White Arrow = 4 mm washers Green Arrow = Discarded screws from M.D.R. Unless you have no 4 mm washers. Black Arrow = Small black screw supplied with new Emulator Red Arrow = Screw and washer in place with grommet Page 3 An AR-Group Publication 2011

4 16 Fit the new emulator into the aperture and secure the emulator to the base with the 4 screws that you removed in 12. Align the Emulator with the front of the fascia the holes in the brackets are elongated so be sure that it is flush with the front panel, before tightening the first screw. Align the front here Then tighten this screw Fit the 34 pin multiplug connector to the Emulator. Take great care and be very gentle. Ensure that the connector fits square to the pins, so that they do not bend or distort and that both the top and bottom rows of pins are correctly engaged. Ensure that the grey plug is pushed fully on to the pins. Now it is very likely that the power cable is not long enough to reach, so to save extending this cable, we need to tease out a little more cable from under the large metal cover behind the M.D.R. This picture shows the panel raised slightly and the cable s original route. 19 Ideally you need to remove all the black screws securing this panel to the base. There are the obvious ones along the front edge, but 2 more on each side and the rear one of these is very difficult to get at. It is even more difficult to put it back. This photo shows what I used, and to refit each screw I attached it to the end of the screwdriver bit with a small piece of blue tack (which in this case was white). You also need to remove the screw at the very back of the organ, just above the mains cable input. This will allow the whole panel to be lifted a few inches on this side to see the cables very clearly, (see photo above) See illustration on the next page These 2 photos show the extended screwdriver and the screw held with Blue (white) tack. (Red Arrow) Green arrow shows screwdriver in position to remove screw or refit it. Make sure hole in panel is aligned correctly. It tends to spring outwards. Use a No2 Phillips screwdriver with at least a 13 inch shaft. Page 4 An AR-Group Publication 2011

5 If you are going to raise the panel remove the screws shown by the red arrows As per Instruction No 19 You can leave this one in All the screws along the front If you cannot refit this one, providing all the others are in place, leave it out. If you only intend to try lifting the edge indicated below by green arrow then remove the screws shown by the blue arrows. As per Instruction No 19A You can leave both these ones in You can leave both these ones in All the screws along the front Metal Cover You need to remove this tape to free the wire and reroute it about 1 inch to the left, to the red arrow. Page 5 An AR-Group Publication 2011

6 19A Seeing what has to be done and what is under the panel, from observing the photograph, you may prefer to remove the screws all along the front and the 2 screws at the side which being near the front are easier to get at. Slip a screwdriver under the panel to ease it up just a little. Do not push it too far in. Then with a small screwdriver ease up the seal on the outside of the power cable,(see photo). This will allow the cable to be released sufficiently to reroute it more toward the centre of the organ, thus increasing the length so that it can reach the Emulator. Then go to 21. With front screws and nearer side screws removed, insert large flat blade screwdriver as Red Arrow. Then carefully tease up seal, which is about 1 inch wide, with small flat blade screwdriver between the 2 Green Arrows, until cable is free, and gently pull it to allow extra length, to connect to Emulator. 20 Ease up the seal that looks like expensive Selotape, and the wires can then be rerouted to the left allowing it to reach the Emulator with ease. Do not remove it from the securing tie, (see photo). I ensured that this seal was in place over the wires, where the panel will grip them. If you have spoilt it, cover this with suitable tape as a protection. Original cable route 21 Connect the power cable at the 4 pin connector on the Emulator. It only marries one way Secure the large panel with all the screws that you removed including the one at the rear. Very carefully lower the instrument panel into place, ensuring that you do not drop it. Replace the 7 screws and square washers underneath the instrument panel. Page 6 An AR-Group Publication 2011

7 25 26 Replace the 2 wingbolts at the top of each side, being very careful not to drop them. Replace the roll top. Make sure that you have it the right way up. It grates if you put it in back to front! Lay it on in the closed position and when you roll it up and back, it automatically tracks into the guides. 27 Replace the top cover holding it about 1 inch too far forward to engage the pins on the special brackets (see white arrow on photo) and push the cover fully back. 28 Replace the 3 screws at the top on the back of the organ which secure the top cover. 29 Push the organ back to where it lives. 30 Replace the music rest Make sure that the Emulator switch is OFF, i.e. The button is out, which is the eject position. Do not place a USB stick in to the Emulator. 33 Plug the AR in and confidently switch it on. 34 For you own peace of mind, play something. The Installation is Complete Page 7 An AR-Group Publication 2011