CPFAFFD 84 CPFAFFD 85 -=- Instruction Book

Transcription

1 CPFAFFD 84 CPFAFFD 85 -=- 1 Instruction Book

2 darning thread ses Silk Suitings ond montlings Silk Foombacks R 130 sk satin ottoman, taffeta, georgette, fobrics ond poplin shirting cotton Muslin Burlop Fine linen Cotton Bed linen Needle and Thread Chart Jersey fabrics (wool) Silk Lostex, Helanca fabrics Jersey fabrics (synthetic) Cotton, royon staple fabrics Cotton knitted pile fabric for bathrobes, ---: - Terry cloth, chenille goods, Cotton 40 Linen Cottonorlinen Heavy linen Cotton Twill, denim Cotton R Type of Fabric Silver thread Decorative stitching Embroidery and R Embroidery thread Buttonhole silk Heavy embroidery thread Leather Lr Acella, leotherette, oilcloth Cotton PCL Silver-gold thread corsetry fabrics, corset satin Cotton Elastic corsetry fabrics, Firm Synthetic thread 40 - Cotton curtoins Mercerized cotton Synthetic curtoins Synthetic thread Woolens Mercerized cotton R ses Synthetic ses ses corduroy Silk 50 crepe, chiffon, botiste, blouse Cotton or mercerized Dress fobrics, such as brocade, Silk 50 Type Size Size Point Style Thread Needle

3 machine. your Pfaff. home. Foreword Instructions Karsruhe-DurIach PFAFF-Haushaltmaschinen GmbH We hope you will always enjoy sewing with will be glad to help you at any time. not hesitate to contact your Pfaff dealer who If you have any sewing problems, please do you will become well acquainted with your We suggest that you try out the various sew ing techniques discussed in this book so that with all the sewing jobs coming up in a piled in order to familiarize you thoroughly quickly. This instruction book has been com embroidering and darning jobs easily and Your new Pfaff sewing machine will enable you to master a large variety of sewing, CPFAFFI 84 and 85

4 Essential Parts of Your Pfaff I 1 Face cover 2 Take-up lever 3 Thread guide 4 Top cover 5 Thread retainer stud 6 Spool pins 7 Bobbin winder 8 Balance wheel 9 Stop motion knob 10 Motor disengaging mechanism 11 Stitch length control 12 Reverse feed control 13 Bed cover 14 Transverse rotary hook 15 Needle plate 16 Sewing foot thumb screw 17 Light switch 18 Stitch width control 19 Needle position lever 20 Needle thread tension 21 Presser bar lifter (on back of machine arm) 22 Needle set screw 23 Sewing foot 2

5 8 Balance wheel 20 Needle thread tension 23 Sewing foot 22 Needle set screw 14 (enclosing transverse rotary hook) 10 Motor disengaging mechanism 13 Free arm 14 Free arm cover 15 Needle plate 16 Sewing foot thumb screw 19 Needle position lever 1 Face cover 2 Take-up lever 3 Thread guide 4 Top cover 5 Thread retainer stud 6 Spool pins 7 Bobbin winder 9 Stop motion knob 11 Stitch length control 12 Reverse feed control 17 Light switch 18 Stitch width control 21 Presser bar lifter (On back of machine arm) 15 9 Essential Parts of Your Pfaff G 7 8 I I I f I

6 6 just like on the Pfaff 84. To get at the bobbin cover (14) by swinging it toward the left. case, however, you must first open free arm hold the case by its open latch. When you out. release the latch, the empty bobbin drops The bobbin cannot fall out as long as you bin. and pull out the bobbin case with the bob illustrated. Lift latch k on the bobbin case On the Pfaff 84, remove bed cover (13), as On the Ptaft 85, the bobbin case is removed lance wheel until the needle is at the top of To remove the bobbin case, rotate the ba its stroke.

7 For bobbin winding, disengage the sewing mechanism. Hold balance wheel (8) while turning stop motion knob (9) toward you (see ill.). To engage the sewing mechanism after the bobbin has been wound, turn the stop tion knob away from you (as indicated by an arrow in the ill.). mo Pass the thread around the thread retainer stud in the direction indicated by an arrow. Place a bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, making sure that key A at its base enters slot B in the bobbin (see ill.). Wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin and push the bobbin toward the right. Start the chine. When the bobbin is full, it is pushed toward the left and can be removed from the spindle. ma A 7

8 Hold the full bobbin so that the thread un winds toward the right and place it in the bobbin case (1). Pull the thread into slot (2) and under spring (3). As you pull the thread, the bobbin should rotate clockwise (4). Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case

9 rotate the balance wheel until the needle place. bobbin case until you hear t snap into up. Release the latch and press against the ill.), making sure its slot (white arrow) points place the bobbin case on center stud s (see is at its highest point. Lift the latch and To insert the bobbin case into the machine,

10 To enlarge the sewing area of the Pfatf 85 for ordinary sewing operations, push the workplate onto the free arm as far as it will go (1). Then lock it in place by turning down the lever on the back of the machine (2) until the locking stud snaps into the hole in the free arm. Press the workplate support against the machine base until it snaps into place (3). To remove the workplate, swing up its sup port and unlock it by pulling out and swing ing up the lever on the back of the machine (see arrow in Fig. 2). 3 On machines having no carrying case base, the workplate support is pressed against the baseplate of the machine The sewing area of the Pfaff 84 Portable is enlarged with the aid of an extension (4).

11 3 Upper threading is illustrated opposite. Please note that the thread is placed be tween any two of the discs of tension (20), pulled clockwise around the tension stud and drawn toward the right with a jerk (see ill.). As you do this, hold the thread steady somewhere between the spool and the ten sion. Thread the needle from front to back

12 The sewing foot is raised and lowered by operating the presser bar lifter on the back of the machine (see ill.). A B 12 Presser bar lifter up Presser bar lifter down To draw up the bobbin thread, hold the needle thread and lower the sewing foot. Turn the balance wheel toward you a full turn. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread. Place both threads back un der the sewing foot after it has been raised again.

13 13 19 (19) should be in its center position. have completed a seam. For ordinary sewing, needle position lever highest point before you begin and after you Make sure the take-up lever (2) is at its Fundamentals of Machine Operation ly. sure the stop motion knob is tightened firm (see arrow). As you do this, check to make Always rotate balance wheel (8) toward you

14 Begin by sewing a straight-stitch seam. To this end, push the stitch width control to the right as far as it will go. The stitch length is regulated by turning the stitch length control. The number indi cating the stitch length chosen should be opposite the dot on the left-hand side of the slot. For ordinary sewing operations, set the stitch length control on 2. Place the material under the sewing and lower the presser bar lifter. foot Place the foot control within easy reach of your foot and depress the pedal. The harder you press, the faster the machine will run. 14

15 cussed on page 25 and the following pages. Various zigzag sewing operations are dis may be desired. the stitch width control toward the left, as The stitch width is regulated by pushing seam, simply depress the fingertip control. To sew in reverse or bacictack the end of a

16 Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. Both tensions are correctly balanced if the needle and bobbin threads interlock in the center of the material. The bobbin thread tension is regulated by turning the small knurled screw on the bob bin case. Turn this screw right for a tighter tension, or left for a looser tension. If the same size threads are used in the needle and on the bobbin, there is no need to adjust the bobbin thread tension. This tension is set correctly if a slight resistance has to be overcome when pulling the thread. bottom top Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose. Numbers 0 to 10 indicate different degrees of tension on the upper tension dial. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. For ordinary sewing operations, the upper tension should be set at about 5. bottom top Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. bottom top Both tensions correctly balanced. 16

17 point and raise the foot. Turn out screw 16 sewing foot, bring the needle to its highest special sewing operations. To change the No instead of clear-view foot No For elastic fabrics, use ordinary sewing foot tached in the reverse order. until the sewing foot can be removed, tilt ing it sideways (see ill.). The new foot is at machine contains several sewing feet for The accessory box which belongs to your securely. shank faces toward the back. Tighten screw will go, making sure that the flat side of its Insert the needle and push it up as far as it foot. Loosen needle set screw 22 and pull Use System 130 R needles only. the old needle out of the needle clamp. to its highest point and lower the sewing To change the needle, bring the needle bar

18 18 / cluded in the accessories of your Pfaff 84. place the bed cover. ing plate over the machine feed so that its of the needle plate. lug enters the center feed slot (see ill.). Re plate into the corresponding cutouts in front pull forward. Place the embroidery and darn In this case it is not necessary to remove Apply this plate as follows: Bring the needle to its highest point. Remove pose, an embroidery and darning plate is in feed must be rendered inactive. For this pur For certain sewing operations, the machine No Embroidery and darning plate the sewing foot. Raise the bed cover and the cover plate. Simply press the darning Piaff 85 Replace the ordinary sewing foot by darn screw (16). Lower the presser bar lifter. set screw (22). Tighten sewing foot thumb the rear so that spring clip a rests on needle ing foot No , attaching it from No Darning foot ceed as follows: To prepare your machine for darning, pro Attaching the Embroidery and Darning Plate Darning

19 Darning sheer and soft materials is greatly facilitated by placing them in darning hoops. Draw up the bobbin thread and hold both threads lightly with your left hand while the first stitches are being made. Trim the threads and start stitching back and forth across the hole in sewing direction. Make sure the threads are anchored in the unworn area around the hole. Turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over the preceding work with short stitches. Select the darning hoops in a size match ing the darning job to be performed. If the needle thread should break, the up per tension is too tight. 19

20 Zipper Insertion Attach zipper foot without quilting gauge (which can be obtained from your Pfaff deal er). Stitch length: 1.5 to 2 Baste closed zipper on the fabric, then open it. Stitch close to the left edge of the zipper for about 1 inch, guiding the right edge of the foot along the zipper teeth (1). Leave the needle in the material, raise the zipper toot and close the zipper (2). Continue stitching until you reach the end of the zipper. Then stitch across this end (3) and up the other side. The finished zipper closure is shown in Fig

21 Flat Felled Seams Attach felling foot No Stitch length: 1.5 to 2 Flat felled seams are used to durably join two pieces of fabric and are usually straightstitched. First Seam: Lay pieces together with the right sides facing and the bottom piece truding about 1/8 inch. Make sure the fabric enters the felling foot evenly and the tom fabric is folded over the edge of the top piece (see ill.), but the top piece is not fold ed. Open the two pieces. pro bot Second Seam: Lightly tension the fabric by pressing it against the needle plate in front of the foot. Insert the seam ridge into the felling foot and stitch down (see ill. at right). Quilting Use zipper foot No with quilding gauge for sewing parallel seams over the entire surface of the fabric.

22 22 Feed the fabric edge into the hemmer foot as instructed on p. 25. Stitch length: 1.5 to 2 from your Pfaff dealer). (which can be obtained No hemmer foot and lower the same. Make 3 use zigzag stitches. Set the stitch width, drawing. Draw the fabric into the hemmer by pulling edge in place. to 4 straight stitches to secure the folded Attach hemmer foot ral inches long. Place the material under the To produce an elastic hem on soft fabrics, sure that the scroll is well filled with fabric scroll with, your right hand (see ill.), making making a hem about 1/8 inch wide and seve ways under the right half of the foot. Hemming both threads backwards, as shown in the Fold the beginning of the fabric edge twice, at all times and the fabric does not slip side

23 Cording is made with two needle threads. grooves is used for heavy materials, grooves for lightweight materials. and 4.0 (/32) mm. cording foot No with 7 grooves for medium-heavy fabrics, and cording foot No with 5 Cording foot No with 3 (/64), 1.6 (1116), 1.8, 2.0 (164), 2.5 (/a2), 3.0 Twin needles for needle distances of 1.2 rotate the balance wheel to draw up the one of the cording feet listed below. supplied at extra cost. To make different size cording, the follow is abt. 1/4 inch. For narrower cording, use bobbin thread. Lace the filler cord through hole g, as illus The smallest distance between cording the type of material used. trated. Hold both needle threads lightly and gauge and the size of the filler cord to suit sert a filler cord. Select the twin needle seams made with the ordinary sewing foot To render your cording more prominent, in of tension discs (see ill.). ing twin needles and cording feet can be lead each thread between a separate pair When threading the needles, make sure to Cording 23 P1aft 85 PlaIt 84 Stitch length: 1.5 to 2 tained from your Pfaff dealer). and insert a twin needle (which can be ob Use ordinary sewing foot No ,

24 No Clear-view sewing foot f Stitch length: 2 to OOl79 Remstitching 24 crease the needle thread tension. The hemstitching effect is produced by the left wing guiding the material so that the wing needle guiding the material so that the right needle along the hemmed edge of the fabric by You can produce a nice hemstitching effect enters the needle holes it has made in the by half a turn and sew the second seam, is the same as for cording work. Slightly in are the same size. The threading procedure needle penetrating the fabric. Turn the fabric Make sure the needle and bobbin threads (preferably a No. 50 embroidery thread). Insert a System 130 Zwi-Ho needle. fabric previously. matches the material being hemstitched stitches into the fabric close to the hem. Use a thread which is not too heavy and

25 25 the stitch length control. (See ill.). the needle is outside the fabric. may be desired. the stitch width control toward the left, as The Zigzag Seam The stitch width is regulated by pushing Never change the stitch width setting unless The stitch length is regulated by turning will cover the fabric edge securely. the fabric and the other over its edge. This with a zigzag stitch of medium width. Soft and flimsy fabrics are best overcast mum stitch width. To overcast the edges of light and mediumweight fabrics, set the machine for its maxi Stitch length: 2 Attach ordinary sewing foot. Make sure the needle takes one stitch into Overcasting Edges with Zigzag Stitches

26 u Inserting Patches Attach ordinary sewing foot. Stitch width: medium Larger holes can be patched quickly. Trim away the ragged edges around the hole, cutting exactly along the fabric yarns. 1/3 Cut a patch about inch larger than the hole and place it under the hole, matching its grain to that of the fabric. Set the stitch length control on 1 and the stitch width control in the middle of its slot and stitch along the edge of the patch. Set the stitch length control on 0.5 and the stitch width control at the extreme left of its slot and sew over first seam. At the corners, stop the machines with the needle down in the material on the right of its throw. Then turn the fabric so that the corners are stitched twice (see ill.). Trim away the excess material on the wrong side. Elastic materials are patched in the same manner. 26

27 zigzag stitches of medium width (3). Trim the fabric edges away on the wrong side (4). Sew over the edges of the lace with short Cut the fabric open under the lace insertion down with straight stitches on both sides (1). Place the lace on the material and stitch it (2) and iron it on both sides of the lace. Inserting Lace u Attach ordinary sewing foot Stitch length: 1

28 Changing the Needle Position Some special sewing jobs are made with the needle switched to the right or left of the needle plate slot. This is done by moving lever (19) to the right and left, respectively. The needle position lever is for sewing buttonholes. indispensable 28 ED 4- t CZ) Lever at left center right

29 Sewing Buttonholes 4Attach all-purpose sewing foot No Flick the needle the stitch width Figs. 2 and 3), to its left position and put control in notch R 1 (see When using No. 50 embroidery thread, set the stitch length control so that the white dot is opposite the groove (see Fig. 4). For heavier threads, slightly increase the stitch length. To obtain more prominent buttonholes, place a filler cord of medium size in the left groove of the sewing foot. For sewing buttonholes, you can obtain buttonhole sewing foot No from your dealer. 3 4

30 of its throw. 30 the length of bar. es, slightly holding the material to reduce clockwise by half a turn, place the filler ond notch R 2, make 4 to 6 bartack stitch 4. Move stitch width control (18) to the sec on the left of its throw. foot. ward, placing it in the left groove of the cord around the needle and pull it for 2. Lift the sewing foot, turn the fabric around 3. Lower the foot and let the needle descend leave the needle in the fabric on the right When the buttonhole is the right length, 1. Sew the first seam over the filler cord. obtained from your dealer. A seam ripper (No ) can be per. Be careful not to injure the bartacks. Open the buttonhole with your seam rip 5. Trim both the sewing and filler threads. 3 to 4 fastening stitches. the length of bar. Flick the stitch width slightly holding the material to reduce cond notch R 2 and sew the second tack, control all the way to the right and make Push stitch width control (18) to the se from the end of the first seam. tonhole seam, stopping about 1/is inch first notch R 1 and sew the second but Push stitch width control (18) back to the

31 93OOI79 embroider the outlines twice. To give your monogram dimensional quality, is running at high speed. tion, without turning them, while the machine Slowly move the hoops in writing direc thread ends and start your machine. thread up through the fabric. Hold both beginning of the design and draw the bobbin Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the bar lifter. Trace the monogram on the fabric and place the material in darning hoops. dery and darning plate and lower the presser Remove the sewing foot, attach the embroi Regulate the stitch width to suit the size of the monogram. Monogram Embroidery Button Sewing right and make two or three tying stitches. Move the stitch width control toward the both holes. Sew on the button. until the needle alternately stitches through Raise the needle, but retain the foot in its lowered position. Regulate the stitch width so that needle will enter the right hole (see ill.). Place the button under the foot and align ing plate. Right needle position No Attach clear-view sewing foot Attach embroidery and darn

32 No clear-view sewing foot Baste the hem about I16 inch from the fabric 32 I.. Apply 93-IOO79 Blindstitching the sewing toot so that the folded edge is stitches before it is hemmed. (3) and finish the raw edge with zigzag Fold the hem (2) and place the fabric under Fold the hem of heavy woolens only once needle takes the left stitch exactly in the Please note: ill.). Regulate the stitch width so that the in line with the left groove of the foot (see the needle thread tension by one grade. set the stitch length control at 4. Reduce (see ill,). Then flick the needle to its right position and folded edge, catching merely one fabric yarn edge, as illustrated (1). Basting seam Fold

33 938 Ornamental Sewing You can make exciting fashion-stitch designs by varying stitch length, stitch width and needle position. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated on this page. Additional ornamental effects are obtained by sewing over a filler cord. Sewing Curtains 954 Stitch length: 2.5 to 3 Stitch width: medium Use a thin needle (see Needle and Thread Chart). Ease the needle thread tension somewhat. Hold synthetic materials a little taut while sewing. 33

34 No Attach clear-view sewing foot - 93-OO7 34 closely packed zigzag (stitch length: stitches 0.2; stitch width: medium), as il lustrated (4). 5. Trim the excess material close to the 6. Sew over the edges of the appliqué with seam on the right side (3). (2). right side with long stitches (1). (stitch length control on 1 ), as shown stitch along the outlines. wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch 2. Set the stitch length control on 1 and 3. Sew the fabric to be appliquéd to the 4. Follow the outlines of the design on the 1. Trace the design on the right side. To make appliqué, proceed as follows: Appliqué Work I. 2

35 To change the light bulb, remove the face cover by pulling it in the direction indicated by an arrow. Push the light bulb into its socket, turn left and pull out. Insert the new bulb so that its pins slide into the socket slots. Press the bulb in and turn right. As you replace the face cover, slip tip d into slot c, then push against the face cover un til it snaps into place. 35

36 Machine Care From time to time, clean the parts in the machine arm and in the vicinity of the sew ing hook with a soft brush. To this end, re move the needle, the sewing foot and the bobbin case with the bobbin. I On Piaft 85 machines, loosen the set screw, lift the front of the free arm cover and pull the cover out lengthwise of the arm (1 & 2). Pfaff 84 machines are tilted back. On port able machines, loosen the screw on the bottom of the machine base and tilt the machine back cautiously (3)

37 per oiling. Since your Pfaff sewing machine The raceway in the sewing hook is an winder. Pfatt 84 II. at left and center). Do not oil the bobbin put a drop of oil into the hook raceway (see important oiling point. From time to time, there are only a few oiling points left. has been made from high-grade materials, are dependent on regular cleaning and pro Longevity and smooth machine performance 37

38 38 hook raceway, it is sufficient to put a back and forth, without applying force. balance wheel back and then rock it drop of oil into the raceway, jerk the If thread should happen to jam in the handled improperly. jam, even if the machine should be The Pfafl rotary hook will not normally wedged between the tension discs. To between the tension discs. remove them, pull a narrow fabric strip Make sure there are no pieces of thread (pp. 36 & 37). Clean and oil the machine as instructed guide the material lightly. Don t force the feeding motion, merely (p. 16). Both tensions must be balanced correctly been inserted correctly (p. 9). Check to see that the bobbin case has Use only high-grade machine thread or the stitch length control on 2. tion lever to its central position, and setting threaded correctly (p. 11). straight stitching, flicking the needle posi- Check whether the needle has been instance) by switching the machine back to ting after you have completed your sewing Select the correct needle and thread from job (buttonhole sewing or darning, for the Needle and Thread Chart. Please remember to restore the normal set When operated properly, your sewing ma- The needle must not be damaged and chine will hardly develop any trouble. must be inserted correctly (p. 17). sewing silk. Trouble Shooting If trouble should occur, check the following:

39 Buttonhole foot No (see p. 25) (see p. 27) Tape measure number Orders should specify the ten-digit part Hemmer foot No Cording kit (see p. 21) Greist bias binder No (not ill.) No No (centimeters) (inches) Soft brush No (not ill.) (see p. 26) Arrow seam ripper No Zipper foot No (see p. 18) Edge guide No Button sewing foot No (4 mm 5/32) (see p. 20) Felling foot No request and at extra cost: The following parts are available on special (on machine) Zigzag sewing foot No No Embroidering and darning plate Darning foot No Needles, System 130 R, No All-purpose sewing foot No for (not Plastic bag accessories ill.) (not ill.) Instruction book Oil can No , full 3 bobbins No These parts come with your sewing machine: Buttonhole foot Arrow seam ripper w screw Edge guide, 4 sewing foot Felling foot Button Zipper foot Hemmer foot I 0Needles Bobbin Embroidering and darning plate Oil can sewing foot sewing foot Zigzag All-purpose Darning foot 4J 39

40 40 Changing the Needle Changing the Needle Position Cleaning Electrical Equipment Engaging and Disengaging the Sewing Foreword Inserting a Full Bobbin Changing the Light Bulb Changing the Sewing Foot. Button Sewing Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Darning Darning Foot Blindstitching Cording Mechanism Hemstitching Hemming Fundamentals of Machine Operation Flat Felled Seams Essential Parts of 84 Pfaff. Essential Parts of 85 Pfaff.. Appliqué Work. Dropping the Machine Feed. Foot Control Accessories. Contents / Page Regulating the Stitch Length Regulating the Thread Tension Trouble Shooting Zipper Insertion Quilting Removing the Face Cover Winding the Bobbin Preface Overcasting Edges Reverse Sewing Straight Stitching Ornamental Sewing Motor Disengaging Mechanism Monogram Embroidery. Sewing Buttonholes Machine Care Raising and Lowering the Sewing Removing the Bobbin Case Sewing Curtains Zigzag Stitching Inserting Lace Inserting Patches Inserting the Bobbin Case Upper Threading Workplate of Pfaff 84.. Workplate of Pfaff 85.. Foot / / Page