If you are knitting for a gift and don t want to ask for measurements, no worries! Standard sizing directions are also included.

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1 Westland by Cheryl Kemp One of the things I get asked about my designs is how I make them fit so well. Since I tend to use myself as a model, of course most of my designs fit my body. However, unless you are short waisted and a little busty the garment made for me may not fit you. When I write patterns, I adjust the measurements to the standardized sizing system which gives a range of bust sizes from 28 to 62 and various standardized sleeve lengths for the given size along with other key factors. This works out fine for many bodies, but again, if your body is a little different (like mine) you may be less than happy with the fit of your garment. In this pattern, all custom measurements have been allowed for so you too can get a perfect fit. Completing this pattern will give you a greater understanding of garment fit and how you may be able to alter standardized patterns to fit your measurements better. One of the key elements is the bust dart. This technique was discussed at length in knitting daily articles and I introduced this idea into the design to enhance fit options even more. If you are knitting for a gift and don t want to ask for measurements, no worries! Standard sizing directions are also included. Photo credit [Cheryl Kemp/James Kemp] Please send any questions to Cheryl, patterns@divaknitting.com SIZE XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 30 [34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches (after blocking) Length: 20 [22, 23, 23, 23, 23.5, 23.5] inches (after blocking)

2 MATERIALS Noro Kureyon [100% wool; 109 yd per 50g skein]; color: 195; 6 [7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] skeins 1 set 24 length US #7/Xmm circular needle 1 set US #7 double pointed needles (for sleeve, may use the 24 circulars for magic loop instead) 1 set 24 length US #5/xm circular needle notions required stitch markers stitch holders scissors GAUGE 16 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch PATTERN NOTES M1r=right leaning increase, m1l=left leaning decrease To customize fit, begin by taking measurements under bust and at the fullest part of bust. You will also need to measure for the length of the garment by measuring under the bust to the waist or hip area, arm length (underarm to wrist) and upper arm circumference. Wet blocking is crucial to the fit of this garment. Noro Kureyon stretches quite a bit after blocking so if you use a substitute yarn you may need to increase the garment size to compensate. Gauge after blocking is 12 sts/ 21 rows = 4 Slip stitches knitwise on RS, purlwise on WS. Measurements (all in inches and based on the gauge of 4 spi): A=Actual number of stitches picked up at top edge B=Under bust C=Fullest part of bust D=C-B, number of inches to increase for bust D*4=E, number of sts to increase for bust A/4=F, number of sts between markers G=F/3, placement of bust darts H=Desired length of torso, under bust to waist or hip I=Upper arm J=I*4 K=Underarm to wrist L=J/3

3 M=L/2 N=Total number of garment sts after bust increases are complete. O=N/2 P=O/3 Q=P/2 PATTERN Sleeves (make 2): Using the long tail method, CO I sts. Join, place marker and begin working in the round in garter st for 6 rows. Work in st st until sleeve measures K. On the final row, work to within M sts of the marker and place L sts on holder for underarm. Place the remaining sleeve sts on another holder. Body (torso): Setup: Long tail CO 3 sts. S1, p2 RS: S1 knitwise, m1r, k1, m1l, k1 WS: S1, purl across RS: S1 knitwise, m1r, knit to last stitch, m1l, k1 Continue in pattern until slip stitch edge measures 10 (or desired under bust to waist length, measurement= H ). Place a safety pin in the garment at the end of a RS row to mark the top of the piece. RS: S1 knitwise, k2t, knit to last stitch, m1b, k1 Continue in this manner until garment measures B-1 inches at the top of the piece. (ex under bust measurement is 31, 31-1=30). RS: S1 knitwise, ssk, knit to last stitch, k2t, k1 BO when 3 sts remain.

4 Seam together the sides to create middle back seam. Bust: Beginning at the seam, place marker for middle back and pick up an even number of sts around the top of the garment. The number of sts picked up should equal approximately B*4=D (ex 31*4=124) stitches. Place marker every F sts, beginning at seam. Markers denote beginning of round (middle back), middle underarm (after ¼ of total sts), center front (after ½ of total sts) and second middle underarm (after ¾ of total sts). Example: 120 sts picked up around top of torso, makers placed at beginning and after 30, 60, and 90 sts Increases: Multiply measurement D by 4=E (ex 7 difference between B and C, *4=28, E=28). This is the number of sts you need to increase for the bust. Divide F by 3. Place markers between the first underarm marker and center front marker G stitches apart for the bust darts. Place two more markers in the same way between the center front marker and the next underarm markers. Work 4 increases every other round using the bust dart markers. Bust Increases: Work to first bust dart marker, m1r,, work to the next bust dart marker, m1r, work to next bust marker, mq1l, work to next bust marker, m1l. Continue bust increases in this manner every other row E sts have been added. Work a total of 4.5 in from the pick up row or until bust increases are completed. This is a good time to try on the garment for fit (place sts on a length of waste yarn long enough to really spread out the stitches, or better yet, use the extenders in your Denise interchangeable needle set) Add Sleeves: *Work to within M sts of the middle underarm maker, place L sts from body on holder and add the sleeve placing markers at the beginning and end of sleeve.* Work sleeve sts and continue across the front of the garment and repeat from * for second sleeve. Work across second sleeve sts and continue to end of round. On the next round, work to within Q sts of center front marker. Bind off P sts. Work to end of round. Turn work, s1, and purl across. Work even in st st for 1.5 inches. Begin Raglan Decreases: S1, work to within 3 sts of first sleeve marker, k2t, k2, ssk, work to within 3 of next sleeve marker, k2t, k2, ssk. Repeat these decreases for the next sleeve (8 sts decreased total for row). Turn work, s1, purl across. Continue decreases in this manner every RS row slipping the first stitch of every row. Discontinue decreases when the diagonal line

5 made by the decreases (the raglan ) measures Back neck sts will remain on the needles. This is another good time to try on the garment for fit. Neckline: Pick up sts around neckline approximately 1 for each slipped st and 1 per st on the BO sts, making the total number of sts divisible by 4. Place marker at beginning of row and work neckline sts in k3, p1 rib for 3 rows. Continuing in pattern, switch to #5 needles and work 2 more rows. Bind off loosely. FINISHING Graft or use three needle bind off for underarms. Weave in all ends. Soak finished garment in cold water for 20 minutes with a bit of fabric softener. Block piece to final measurements. ABOUT THE DESIGNER Cheryl Kemp works and lives in Cincinnati, OH with her husband, a mutt, a husky and two Applehead Siamese cats. She dreams of the day she will move to her real home in Arizona, where yes, she can still wear sweaters. See all of her patterns, adventures, yarn store and blog at Copyright 2008 Cheryl Kemp, Diva Knitting. All rights reserved. Pattern is for personal use only. Other use may be allowed with written permission from the designer. Contact designer for more information.