Wee Ashley cardy and Wee Morrie bonnet in White Gum Wool 8ply ethical merino Gum Grey knit and photographed by Kelly van Niekerk

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1 Wee Ashley Wee Ashley cardy and Wee Morrie bonnet in White Gum Wool 8ply ethical merino Gum Grey knit and photographed by Kelly van Niekerk Wee Ashley is a unisex cardigan pattern for babies one size only small newborn (to fit a baby approximately 2.8kg - 3.5kg in birthweight) written for 8ply/dk weight yarn page 1

2 Construction Wee Ashley has you cast on at the neckline, and work flat forming a rounded garter neckline. The upper chest, upper back, and top half of the sleeves are all worked flat in one piece utilising raglan shaping, until a specific stitch count is obtained. From here the arm stitches are put onto waste yarn (or a stitch holder) and the body finished. Once the body is completed the sleeves are removed from waste yarn and returned to the needles. Instructions are provided for working the sleeves both in the round and flat. You will need to know how to: backwards loop cast on (for beneath the arms) knitting in the round (optional) knitting top-down raglans long tail cast on (for initial cast on) picking up stitches (for beneath the arms) seaming (optional) If you are not familiar with these techniques you may need to reference a knitting guide book, or view videos on the internet. Gauge 22 stitches & 28 rows/10cm on 4.0mm needles (in stocking stitch, blocked) To achieve fit as per pattern it is important to achieve the stitch gauge. The row gauge is not as important, as lengths are provided in the pattern to knit to rather than a specific number of rows. Yarn Requirements 8ply/DK weight yarn ( m/100g) This pattern is suitable for yarn with good elasticity and memory a wool or wool blend. Suggested yarn: White Gum Wool ethical superfine merino 8ply (236m/100g) Gum Grey 1 skein visit: Buttons mm buttons (dependent upon row gauge) WEE ASHLEY PATTERN INFORMATION Needles 3.5mm and 4.0mm needles (or size required to obtain gauge, plus one 2 sizes smaller) This knit can be worked entirely on flat knitting needles, however instructions are provided to work the sleeves in the round. If choosing to work in the round you will need double pointed needles or a long circular needle for working the small circumference sleeves in the round. Even if knitting the sleeves flat, the small number of stitches may be more comfortable worked back and forth on a flexible cable circular needle. Notions 6 stitch markers tape measure darning needle (for sewing in ends, seaming, & buttons) scissors Abbreviations k - knit k2tog - knit 2 stitches together (a decrease) kfb - knit into the front and back of a stitch (an increase) p - purl sl1p - slip 1 stitch as if to purl yo - yarn over (an increase; in this instance used to create a buttonhole) Sizing Body length = 21cm (from top of shoulder to cast off edge) Sleeve length = 11cm (from underarm to cast off edge) Body circumference = 36.5cm (approximately 1.5cm positive ease) To fit a small newborn baby with chest circumference of 35cm (or estimated weight of 2.8kg 3.5kg) Wee Ashley designed by Kelly van Niekerk published 2017 page 2

3 Pattern starts here PART A: Yoke Using smaller needle, loosely cast on 63 stitches (3.5mm if gauge achieved) Rows 1 & 2: sl1p, knit all stitches to end of row Row 3 Shaping Row (RS): sl1p, knit 40. turn your work. knit 19. turn your work. knit to end of row The shaping row in this pattern is worked utilising short rows. The purpose behind this is to make the neckline slightly higher at the back of the knit and lower at the front. When working short rows in garter stitch there is no need to wrap stitches, simply work as directed; turn your work and continue in the opposite direction. Garter stitch naturally masks any gaps created when turning your work Row 4 - Buttonhole Row 1 (WS): sl1p, k1, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row Rows 5 & 6: sl1p, knit all stitches to end of row Row 7 Increase Row (RS): sl1p, k3, place marker, (k1, kfb)x9, (k2, kfb)x6, (k1, kfb)x9, k1, place (87 stitches 24 stitches increased) PART B: Chest Change to larger needle (4.0mm if gauge achieved) Marker placement row (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, place marker, p17, place marker, p25, place marker, p17, place marker, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, slip Row 1 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k8, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k14, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k22, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k14, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k9, slip (95 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 2 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p3, (k2, p2)x2, slip Row 3 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k9, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k16, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k24, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k16, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k10, slip (103 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 4 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p4, (k2, p2)x2, slip PART B: Chest continued Row 5 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k10, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k18, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k26, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k18, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k11, slip (111 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 6 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p5, (k2, p2)x2, slip Row 7 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k11, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k20, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k28, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k20, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k12, slip (119 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 8 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p6, (k2, p2)x2, slip Row 9 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k12, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k22, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k30, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k22, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k13, slip (127 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 10 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p7, (k2, p2)x2, slip Row 11 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k13, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k24, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k32, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k24, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k14, slip (135 stitches 8 stitches increased) Row 12 Buttonhole Row 2 (WS): sl1p, k1, yo, k2tog, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, (purl to next marker, slip marker)x4, p8, (k2, p2)x2, slip Row 13 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, k14, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k26, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k34, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k26, kfb, k1, slip marker, kfb, k15, slip (143 stitches 8 stitches increased) PART C: Sleeve separation The row has been divided by markers when working a WS row: 4 stitch buttonband (with buttonholes), stitch marker, right front, stitch marker, right sleeve, stitch marker, back, stitch marker, left sleeve, stitch marker, left front, stitch marker, 4 stitch buttonband Wee Ashley designed by Kelly van Niekerk published 2017 page 3

4 PART C: Sleeve separation continued Separation Row (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, p9, remove marker, place stitches between this marker and next marker (right sleeve stitches) onto waste yarn and backwards loop cast on 2 stitches, remove marker, purl to next marker, remove marker, place stitches between this marker and next marker (left sleeve stitches) onto waste yarn and backwards loop cast on 2 stitches, remove marker, p9, (k2, p2)x2, slip (85 stitches) The row has now been divided by markers when working a RS row: 4 stitch buttonband, stitch marker, left front, back, and right front as one piece, stitch marker, 4 stitch buttonband (with buttonholes) PART D: Body Row 1 (RS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, knit all stitches to marker, slip Row 2 (WS): sl1p, k3, slip marker, (p2, k2)x2, purl until 8 stitches before marker, (k2, p2)x2, slip You should insert evenly spaced buttonholes along your buttonband. If you look at your work from the RS, you will notice there are 7 garter ridges between the first 2 buttonholes. When you next have 7 garter ridges between buttonholes after finishing working a RS row, start your next WS row by substituting sl1p, k3, slip marker with sl1p, k1, yo, k2tog, slip marker Continue alternating Body Rows 1 & 2 (and inserting buttonholes as directed in note above) until the garment measures approximately 19cm from the top of the shoulder. PART E: Body Hem Change to smaller needle, and work in garter stitch (sl1p, knit to end of row, for every row) until the hem measures approximately 2-3cm. PART F: Sleeves (in the round) Return stitches (do not knit) from one piece of waste yarn to your larger needle (31 stitches) The sleeve will be worked in the round, so the sleeve stitches should be worked on double pointed needles, or with a long circular needle for magic loop Pick up and knit 4 stitches from the cast on edge at the base of the armhole (the underarm or armpit area), placing a stitch marker between stitches 2 & 3. Knit across stitches already on the needle (which you released from the waste yarn) until you reach the stitch marker.. Your work should be joined in the round This stitch marker indicates the start/end of the sleeve round You have 35 stitches in your round Rounds 1 & 2: knit all stitches Round 3 Decrease round: k2, k2tog, k27, ssk, k2 (33 stitches 2 stitches decreased) Work in Stocking Stitch (knit all stitches, for every round) until the sleeve measures approximately 9.5cm from the underarm (or armpit area) PART G: Sleeve Edging (in the round) Change to smaller needle Round 1: knit all stitches Round 2: p14, k2, p2, k2, p13 Continue alternating Sleeve Edging Rounds 1 & 2 until the sleeve edging measures approximately 1.5-2cm. Repeat PARTS F & G for second sleeve Then see PART J: Finishing on Page 5 SLEEVES IN THE ROUND: Go to PARTS F & G SLEEVES WORKED FLAT: Go to PARTS H & I (page 5) Wee Ashley designed by Kelly van Niekerk published 2017 page 4

5 PART H: Sleeves (worked flat) Return stitches (do not knit) from one piece of waste yarn to your larger needle (31 stitches) Whilst the sleeve will be worked flat and not in the round, you may find it more comfortable to use a long circular needle with a flexible cable as you start the sleeve With RS facing, and starting at the centre of the cast on edge at the base of the armhole (the underarm or armpit area), pick up and knit 2 stitches, then knit the 31 stitches already on your needles, then finally pick up and knit 2 stitches from the other half of the base of the armhole (35 stitches) Row 1 (WS): purl all stitches Row 2 (RS): knit all stitches Continue alternating Sleeve Rows 1 & 2 until the sleeve measures approximately 9.5cm from the underarm (or armpit area) end having just worked a WS/purl Row PART I: Sleeve Edging (worked flat) Change to smaller needle Row 1 (RS): knit all stitches Row 2 (WS): k15, p2, k2, p2, k14 Continue alternating Sleeve Edging Rows 1 & 2 until the sleeve edging measures approximately 1.5-2cm. above and below: Wee Ashley cardy and Wee Morrie bonnet knit and photographed by Kelly van Niekerk Below (clockwise from bottom right): Wee Ashley cardy and Wee Morrie bonnet knit and photographed by Instagram users onecraftymumma, bonnycrafts, emmajane1626 (top right): Facebook user K. Harold Repeat PARTS H & I for second sleeve PART J: Finishing Sew in all ends. If sleeves were knit flat, then seam the arms closed. Securely sew buttons to the garter stitch button band, corresponding with the buttonholes. Wash in a gentle wool wash, then lay flat and in shape to dry Wee Ashley #WeeAshleyCardy Wee Ashley designed by Kelly van Niekerk 2017 Kelly van Niekerk all rights reserved page 5 I give my blessing for you to knit and sell as many items using this pattern as you wish Need pattern support/assistance? Visit Social media: Instagram Facebook pekapekadesignstudio Ravelry - gurnard