SOPHIE. Black & White Espadrilles. and Me. Turn home slippers into street shoes Part 1 - THE SLIPPERS WITH STRIPES AND HEARTS

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1 SOPHIE and Me PdfPatternDesign - Ingunn Santini CROCHET PATTERNS FOR LITTLE AND BIG GIRLS pdfpatterndesign@live.no Black & White Espadrilles Turn home slippers into street shoes Part 1 - THE SLIPPERS WITH STRIPES AND HEARTS

2 2 Black & White Toms/ Espadrilles Skill level: Materials slippers Yarn: All sizes; Double-strand Light/Sport weight 2, OR Worsted weight g (2.5 oz) 100 % cotton or any suitable yarn (25 g in each color; Black, White and Grey) PART 1 - THE SLIPPERS This is the Espadrille/Toms design no II. This time with the new ROPE TRAY-SOLES applied as a final finish! That story you ll find on a separate pattern/tutorial here: library/new-tailored-cord-soles--sole-treatment---methodfor-how-to-turn-home-slippers-into-street-shoes Espadrilles are originally very simple handmade canvas shoes, with rope-soles, produced in Spain (and other parts of the world too!) for hundreds of years. There are still Espadrilles handmade by small home industries, but mostly the mass production has taken over. But... no problem, we can make our own Espadrilles! The most simple toe/up crochet slippers can be transferred into shoes! All we need is to assemble an innerand an outer sole to the slippers! And finally, adding treatment to the soles will make your indoor slippers to outdoor shoes! Yes, you can wear them on the street as normal shoes! That s the coolest part! The possibilities are endless, and I ll show you how to, step by step; the slippers, the innersoles, the outer soles and the treatment! Part 1 includes: Basic slipper crochet instruction Tutorial for the cord with chunky hearts Tutorial for 3 different heel-finishes Suggestions for stripe color combinations Part 2 includes: Tutorial for the rope tray-soles Tutorial for the inner soles Tutorial for how to assemble slippers to soles Tutorial for the outer-sole treatment Crochet hook: European metric 3.5 mm (US F/5) for all sizes, or any hook size to obtain the gauge and size information below. Gauge: 19 scs x 19 rows/rounds = 4 inch square (10x10 cm) Size: Medium to Large, as the crochet fabric is very flexible. Additional info for sizes below, and at p 2. Terminology: US - American Crochet Terms. See conversion charts for BE hooks and terms at p 9. CHECK-POINT FOR SIZES: It s the shoe s width that decide the size, the length is easy to fix! Measure the foot-width around the widest part, divide in 2 for diameter. For perfect fit: The diameter of the toe-piece measured flat, should be slightly smaller than the wearer s foot. Make use of the chart below with indicative measures for standard crochet/knit footwear s length and width. NOTE: Width is written like this; Shoe-width diam / Foot-width diam. Small = US 12-4 / EU Heel to toe: 7 1/4-8 1/4 in (18-21 cm) Width: 3 in / 3.5 in (7,5 cm / 8 cm) Medium = US 5-6 / EU Heel to toe: 8 3/4-9 in (22-23 cm) Width: 3 1/4 / 3 3/4 in (8 cm / 8,5 cm) Large = US 7-8/ EU Heel to toe: 9 1/4-9 3/4 in (23,5-24,5 cm) Width: 3 1/2 / 4 in (9 / 9,5 cm) Extra Large = 9-10 / EU Heel to toe: /4 in (25,5-26 cm) Width: 3 1/4 / 4 1/4 in (9,5 / 10,5 cm)

3 Instruction Black & White Espadrilles, the basic slipper. This shoe pattern is worked from toe to heel in one piece; No need of soles if you like to wear the shoes as slippers only! The slippers are designed with a special finish for the heel, nicer and more fitting than the foldand-sew-together -way! See alternative heel-finishes at p 7. There are also increasings under the foot, to shape a nice and comfortable heel-piece. With this pattern, you can achieve ALL sizes! NOTES: Replace first sc at beg of every round/row with 1 ch, finish the round with sl st in 1 st ch at beg of R. No of sts in instruction, is included the start ch-sts! Read ABOUT FOOT LENGTH AND STRIPES on p 4. Stitches used in this pattern: See terms/conversions at p 9 3 THE TOE PIECE : Follow the toe-piece chart at right as you work. Ch 5 for foundation, keep your start-loop open = the 6 th ch, you are going to work sts in it! (Only be course it s easy to close tight this st, after working 5 scs in it, pull the yarn tail! A little trick!) R 1: Black yarn. Start in 3 rd ch from hook, work 3 sc. In the start-loop; 5 scs, (You are now on the opposite side of the foundation), 3 sc in the next 3 chs, in the last ch (not counting the start-ch); 4 scs = 16 sts (incl the start-ch) close R with sl st in the ch on beg of R. Pull the yarn-tail to close the start-loop, Make markings Mark the side-sts; the middle-st of the 5 sts you have in each side. Mark the top Mid-toe, and bottom Mid-sole. Move the markings as you work the rounds. SM 1. open foundation-ch Mid-Top Toe R 7-8 =36 sts R 6 =36 sts R 5 =32 sts R 4 =28 sts R 3 =24sts R 2 =20 sts R 1=16 sts Mid-Sole start SM R 2-6: Increase 1 sc (2 scs in 1 st) in both sts next to (on each side of) the SM, repeat for the other side of the toe piece. You have incr 4 sts = 20 sts. Repeat for R 3 = 24 sts, R 4 = 28 sts and R 5 =32 sts. R 6 = 36 sts. R 7-8: Work sc on the R s = 36 st on each R. Now the toe is finished. R 9-14: Gray yarn. Work 1 st R in Back-st loops. R 15-20: White yarn. Work 1 st R in Back-st loops. NOTE ABOUT SIZES: The toe-piece is finished, brake yarn. See next page for how to set MF-marking, and markings for start of foot-piece. Please read the CHECK-POINT FOR SIZES on p 2. The instruction for the toe-piece above, fits several sizes on the width, I d say from shoe-size US 5-6 / EU 37-38, to US 7-8/ EU 39-40, as the crochet fabric is very flexible, and will stretch with use. If you have a smaller foot, stop increase on R 5 (32 sts). If you have a larger foot, make one more increasing; R 7 (40 sts). Or you can simply change to slightly smaller or larger crochet hook, and/or finer or heavier yarn!

4 4 HOW TO WORK THE FOOT ABOUT NEW MF-MARK You have probably noticed how your MF mark (and entire toe-piece) twists towards the right (if you re righthanded)! It s really awkward, and impossible to straighten up. This is typical for tightly worked scs. The most important is that the front of the toe-piece keeps a straight line. So place your piece flat down, and make yourself a new MF-mark! = 36 st : 2 = 18 st on top toe = 9 sts on each side of MF-mark. Pic 1. Now the forth and back-work start, to shape the sole and heel. See how to adjoin new color, and how to finish the sc-rows in a neat way on p 7. 1 ABOUT FOOT-LENGHT AND STRIPES According to my gauge, each stripe is 3 cm ( 1.2 in). Finishing your first 8 rounds on the toe-piece, you ll know where the next 2 stripes will end on you foot; 2.4 in from the black toe-start. For me a total of 6 stripes was perfect to reach full foot-length. For you it may be different. The heel has 5 rows + seam. Not to do it too complicated, I ll advice you to just continue working the heel in the color where you stopped for full foot-length, and change color after 6 rows. If you have a small foot, and like to have my no of stripes, consider working 5 rows of each color! Adjoin Black yarn in the 4 th st from MF-mark. Row 1: Ch 1, work scs in back-st loops across. Turn 3 sts from MFmark = 30 sts. See pic 1. Row 2-6: Decrease 2 sts on each row; 1 st in start of row, and 1 st in the end; Row 2 = 28 sts, Row 3 = 26 sts, Row 4 = 24 sts, Row 5 = 22 sts, Row 6 = 20 sts. TIP: There are several ways of decreasing, I find this way easiest to keep track of: On start of row, dec by skipping the 2 nd st, start working in the 3 rd. In end of row; work the 2 last sts tog. Don t worry about steps in the edge, you ll even it out with the final edging of the shoe. IMPORTANT: Ease the tension to the dec- and turning-sts in order not to tighten the sloped edges. Pic 2. Set MB-mark; 10 sts on each side of mark. 2 INCREASE START AT 1/2 FOOT-LENGTH. You ll find your increase-point by measuring your shoe like pic 3. Stretch the piece slightly. Increase 2 sts in the middle, with a distance of 4 sts; 2 sts on each side of MB-mark. Repeat twice for each colored 6-row stripe; row 2 and 5 = 4 sts inc for each stripe. Depending on your foot-length, you should have about 3 stripes before the heel starts = 12 sts increased on foot-piece = 32 sts before the heel starts. Row 7: Adjoin Grey yarn. Ch 1, work scs in back-st loops across. Row 8-12: Scs across. Incr as instructed above. Row 13: Adjoin White yarn. Ch 1, work scs in back-st loops across. Row 14-18: Scs across. Incr as instructed above. Row 19: Adjoin Black yarn. Ch 1, work scs in back-st loops across. Row 20-24: Scs across. Incr as instructed above. 3 At half foot-length the increasing start under the foot. You have reached full footlenth when you barely can se the MBmark on your slipper. Ready for heel.

5 5 HEEL START: Update your MB- mark; 16 sts on each side of Mark. The heel is 10 sts; 5 sts on each side of MB. Pic 1. Follow the chart as you work the heel. See alternative heel finish at p 7. 1 Heel Row 1: Sc across = 32 sts. (If you re adjoining new color, work in back-st loops as before). Row 2: Work 9 sts. St 10; sc2tog, skipping st , finish st in st scs, 1 sc 2 tog skipping st , finish st in st 23. Finish row. Row 3: 8 sts. *1 sc2tog, skipping the sc2tog on prev Row*. 4 scs, rep *-*. Finish Row. Row 4: 7 sts. *1 sc2tog, skipping the sc2tog on prev Row*. 2 scs, rep *-*. Finish Row. Row 5: 6 sts. 2 sc2tog, skipping the sc2tog on prev Row. Finish Row. Sew or sl st tog the remaining opening. Pic 3 BASIC SLIPPER IS FINISHED! 2 3 Mid-Back Heel R 2 R 4 R 5 R 3 start R 1=32 EDGING THE SHOES Mid-Sole 1. Work 1 round with sl sts on the very edge of the slipper s border - to even it out and to create sts to work scs in. Start at MB-mark NOTE: Do NOT strain or tighten the sl sts, work rather too many than too few. In the slanted edges, work 6 sl sts; 1 in each row. 2. From experience I know that crochet material stretches. I prefer to secure my size with adjustable laces: With 3-stranded yarn (or the slipper s yarn) and hook E/4 (3,5 mm), work 2 shoe-laces with ch-sts, about 8 in (20 cm) longer than the slipper s instep. Keep yarn-tail in both ends. Attach crochet heart in startend. See tut for hearts at p Adjoin yarn at the MB heel mark. Ch 2, *Skip 1 st, 1 sc in next, 1 ch* Repeat and work the scs with the chain-lace interlocked in the middle of the sts, working along the edge s back-st loops. NOTE: Work with light gauge!! Attach the second heart. Tie on the heel.

6 6 TUTORIAL CHUNKY MINI-HEARTS Sock- or sport-yarn. Crochet hook 2.5 mm ( US C/2) In a MC (Magic Circle), work: 3 ch, 3 dcs, 2 tr, 1 dtr. 1 ch, sl st in top of dtr, 2 tr, 3 dcs, 2 ch, 1 sl st in yarn circle. Pull start-tail from MC, hard to close. Repeat step 1 for 3 more hearts; each heart is double. Tuck the yarn-ends into little balls, place them in the middle of each heart. Keep 1 long yarn-end for assembling of each heart. Place one heart on top of the other, with the yarn balls in the middle. Insert hohk through the tiny spaces in the middle of the closed circles. With the long tail from 1 of the hearts, ch 1. Work the hearts tog with sl sts, in the front-st loops nearest you, and in the back-st loops on the opposite heart. In the dtr ch-sts, work 1 sl st, 1 ch, 1 sl st. On last sl st, brake yarn, pull end through the st-loop. Insert hook from back side of heart, through space in the middle of the closed circle, fetch the yarn-end and pull it through to the back side, weave in end. You need 2 white- and 2 black hearts. Attach the hearts to the chain-lace with the yarn ends of the lace. Wait with lace s heart 2, until you know how long it needs to be, finishing the sc-edging on the slippers.

7 7 HOW TO FINISH A SC-ROW TO ACHIEVE AN EVEN EDGE This is how I do it: On the previous row and the row below, you have two obvious loops to insert the hook in. 2. After the 2 nd last st, insert the hook in both loops. 3. Yo, pull yarn through 4. Yo, pull yarn through the 2 loops on hook. Turn always CCW with 1 ch. HOW TO CHANGE COLOR ON ROWS See step 3 on tut above. Here you adjoin new color! Always at the last draw-through- for any kind of stitch. TWO WAYS TO WORK HEELS (To avoid my decrease-heel!) 1. THE NICE WAY 3 4 The length of the slipper is measured to fit to the back of the heel. Fold the slipper inside out. Work the sides tog with sl sts. Stop when 5-9 sts remains to work. Brake to a 5 inch yarn tail. 2. THE BEST WAY Work with a yarnneedle. Insert the needle into the remaining sts. Pic 3. Pull yarn end to close the gap.. Pic 4. Weave in the yarn end up to edge of shoe. Fasten off. Fold Seam sl sts Heel-flap. Work the slipper to foot-length, as in instruction. Skip 6-10 sts in the middle. Work 6 rows scs forth and back on the remaining sts on the side where you finished the foot-length, or as many rows you need to close heel to the opposite side. Fold slipper inside/out, work sides and bottom heel tog with sl sts.

8 CONGRATULATIONS! HAPPY WITH YOUR NEW SLIPPERS? Throughout the instruction, you have seen images of how I made these slippers, hopefully to some help and understanding. The shoes are made for my little sister. Have you noticed the inner-soles? Sonja is her name, and the date is her 50 th birthday! (She s not so little any more) A great gift-idea for any occasion! Slippers with hand-made inner-soles, no outer-soles yet. 2. Compleat crochet shoes for street-use! 2 What about upgrading your home slippers with tailored inner-soles? This will protect them and extend the wearing-time. And it s so comfortable to walk on! And...with inner-soles you achieve a shoe-shape, for a less slipper-look. Or even better; Wouldn t you like to wear your slippers with soft, tailored rope-soles under? Or best; Can you imagine to be able to wear your indoor shoes... ON THE STREET? All above and more, you ll find on a separate pattern/tutorial in my Ravelrystore for instant download: library/new-tailored-cord-soles--soletreatment---method-for-how-to-turnhome-slippers-into-street-shoes

9 9 Terms and Abbreviations *--* = repeat from * - to* [--] = sts worked in same group/st/loop Yo = yarn over hook R = round St = stitch Sts = stitches St-sp = stitch space Decr = Decrease Incr =Increase Lp(s) = Loop(s) Betw = between Prev = previous Tog = together P = page FS = Front side BS = Back side RS = Right side MF = Mid front mark MB = Mid back mark SM = Side mark Pic = Picture Stitches in this pattern Crochet Terms British English Slip stitch (sl st) Chain stitch (ch) Double crochet (dc) Half treble (htr) Treble crochet (tr) Double treble crochet (dtr) Cast off Tension Crochet hook Conversion chart American English Slip stitch (sl st) Chain stitch (ch) Single crochet (sc) Half double crochet (hdc) Double crochet (dc) Treble crochet (tr) Bend off / fasten off Gauge European UK size US size Metric 2 mm 14 B/1 2.5 m 12 C/2 3 mm 11 D/3 3.5 mm 9 E/4 4 mm 8 G/6 4.5 mm mm 6 H/8 SUGEGSTIONS FOR ALTERNATIVE COLOR- COMBINATIONS FOR THE STRIPES ON THE SLIPPERS. sl st = Slip Stitch ch = Chain stitch sc = Single crochet dc = Double crochetyo once. tr = Treble crochetyo twice. dtr = Double treble crochetyou three times. POLICY: You are welcome to sell the finished products from my shop, but I appreciate if you contact me first. Please credit me with a link to my shop. All my patterns are published and copyrighted, and may not be resold or distributed in any manner, on Ravelry, Etsy or anywhere else. Thank you!