Shoes and Boots. Simple 3-piece shoes with top seams and heel seams from 750 AD, Ribe, Denmark (Jenson, p. 28).

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Top seams and turn shoes (where the pieces are stitched together and then turned right side out like a garment) were common. Shoes and boots were lined with felt to make them comfortable and warm.

1 Simple 3-piece shoes with top seams and heel seams from 750 AD, Ribe, Denmark (Jenson, p. 28). Shoes and Boots Goatskin was the preferred Viking Age shoe leather, though other leathers were used (see right). Top seams and turn shoes (where the pieces are stitched together and then turned right side out like a garment) were common. Shoes and boots were lined with felt to make them comfortable and warm. Pattern for right shoe from the 9 th century Oseberg, Norway, burial (Krupp and Priest-Dorman, p. 57). These shoes are unique in that the pair was found and both shoes were cut differently to fit better. The 7 th -8 th C. Staraja Ladoga, Russia, ankle boots with pointed toes. The sole has a pointed heel stiffener; this common trait on Viking shoes helps keep the heel from slouching, which wears the leather out (Swann, p. 40). Leather Items found at Hedeby: Goat or sheep 41% Unknown 36% Cow/Calf 21% Deer 2% (goat = 282 pieces, sheep = 18 pieces, calf = 92 pieces and cow = 52 pieces) Leather Items found at Ribe: Ox 175 pieces Unknown 49 pieces Goat 22 pieces Sheep 16 pieces Horse or foal 6 pieces Calf 4 pieces Horse 3 pieces (from Priest-Dorman, private correspondence) Goatskin shoes with typically Viking toggle fastener of antler over instep (Margeson, p. 28). Three goatskin shoes from Coppergate, York. The boots and child s shoe are all made with flat soles sewn onto uppers (Hall, p. 83). Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) crmayhew@comcast.net September

Woman s shoe from Staraja Ladoga, 8 th C. The shoe is 23cm by 10cm and is made of leather.

This shoe is made of a single piece of leather fastened by laces on the front and at the heel (Roesdahl & Wilson, p. 299).

The drawings show the shoes as worn, while the photos show the shoe patterns. The top adult s shoe is seamed on the front and the side.

2 Woman s shoe from Staraja Ladoga, 8 th C. The shoe is 23cm by 10cm and is made of leather. The cut of the shoe is similar to that of the Oseberg shoes (Roesdahl & Wilson, p. 299). Child s shoe from Staraja Ladoga, Russia, 8 th C. This shoe is made of a single piece of leather fastened by laces on the front and at the heel (Roesdahl & Wilson, p. 299). Hedeby & Staraja Ladoga These two shoes were found in the Hedeby settlement dig. The drawings show the shoes as worn, while the photos show the shoe patterns. The top adult s shoe is seamed on the front and the side. The bottom child s shoe has a side seam and 6 holes for laces. Most shoes found in Hedeby were made of goatskin. Shoe styles varied by social status and fashion. These shoes date to the 9 th or 10 th century (Roesdahl & Wilson, p ). Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) crmayhew@comcast.net September

3 Chart of shoe finds from 9 th -11 th century layers in York, England. Most shoes were made from a single piece of leather for the upper, with seams on the tops or sides (Mould, Carlisle & Cameron, Fig. 1595). Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) crmayhew@comcast.net September

Bronze Birka buckle with knotwork (Arbman, Taf. 87). Strap-end from Birka, (Arbman, Taf. 87). York 10 th century openwork strap-end of copper alloy 5.

Belts and Hardware Belts were worn by men and women, though fewer pieces of belt hardware (buckles, strap ends, stiffeners) turn up in women s graves.

10 th century York bone strapend, 6.2cm (Hall, p. 81). Buckle and belt stiffener with stamped design from Gotland (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 126).

Belt Widths from Birka and Gotland by Dirk Jomsvikingr I measured the scaled photos of buckles and strap-ends shown in Plates 86 through 90 of Birka I:

Buckles associated with bridles and other horse trappings were not counted.

4 Bronze Birka buckle with knotwork (Arbman, Taf. 87). Strap-end from Birka, (Arbman, Taf. 87). York 10 th century openwork strap-end of copper alloy 5.8cm long (Hall, p. 103). Belt Plaques from Birka Grave 716 (Arbman, Taf. 89). Belts and Hardware Belts were worn by men and women, though fewer pieces of belt hardware (buckles, strap ends, stiffeners) turn up in women s graves. The Eura, Finland grave finds show women wearing tablet-woven belts from which hung their decorated leather and metal knife sheaths. 10 th century York bone strapend, 6.2cm (Hall, p. 81). Buckle and belt stiffener with stamped design from Gotland (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 126). Gotland belt hardware (Thunmark- Nylen, Taf. 134). Belt Widths from Birka and Gotland by Dirk Jomsvikingr I measured the scaled photos of buckles and strap-ends shown in Plates 86 through 90 of Birka I: Die Gräber and & of Die Wikingerzeit Gotlands to try to understand representative belt widths of the time. Buckles associated with bridles and other horse trappings were not counted. Width of a buckle was either the width of the heel bar or connector plate, or, in the case of buckles with wider mouths than connector plates, I used the average of the two. Strap ends width was taken at the widest point, which was usually where the strap attached. A total of 23 buckles and 18 strap-ends were surveyed. The average buckle width was 0.7 inches; the average strap-end was 0.6 inches. Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) crmayhew@comcast.net September

Pouches & Wallets The metal hardware on these leather goods enables us to

The drawstring pouch from Gotland is probably one of those rarely-found items

Gotlandic lyre pouch frame (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 142).

224). Gotland drawstring pouch, (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 142).

(Arbman, Taf. 128). Partial leather wallet, Birka, Grave 904 (Arbman, Taf.

5 Pouches & Wallets The metal hardware on these leather goods enables us to reconstruct the original items here. The drawstring pouch from Gotland is probably one of those rarely-found items that would have been common then. Gotlandic lyre pouch frame (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 142). Lyre-shaped pouch with metal buttons and carved leather decoration (Arbman, p. 224). Gotland drawstring pouch, (Thunmark-Nylen, Taf. 142). Metal lyre-shaped pouch frame with three buttons from Birka, Grave 949 (Arbman, Taf. 128). Partial leather wallet, Birka, Grave 904 (Arbman, Taf. 132). Reconstruction of multi-layered leather wallet found in Birka, Grave 750. The leather is interwoven with metal strips (Arbman, Taf. 130). Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) September

Stem stitch was used for the complex embroideries on the Mammen cloak and tunic. This is the earliest known example of this stitch used in Denmark. (Hald, p.

Embroidery and Sewing Grave finds of embroidery are limited, but linen and wool do not survive well in graves.

In her book Ancient Danish Textiles, Margrethe Hald writes: Prehistoric sewing can be divided into two main categories: that which is purely practical, for example the seams of a garment, and that

6 Stem stitch was used for the complex embroideries on the Mammen cloak and tunic. This is the earliest known example of this stitch used in Denmark. (Hald, p ) Watercolor sketch showing detail of the Mammen cloak embroideries, circa 970 AD (Fitzhugh and Ward, p. 78). Embroidery and Sewing Grave finds of embroidery are limited, but linen and wool do not survive well in graves. The Mammen grave yielded simple stitches worked in complex patterns; the result is impressive yet easy to duplicate. In her book Ancient Danish Textiles, Margrethe Hald writes: Prehistoric sewing can be divided into two main categories: that which is purely practical, for example the seams of a garment, and that which is solely decorative and therefore embroidery. In some cases the sewing serves both purposes. (Hald, p. 279) In the photo below right the stitch sews the seam, binds the raw edges and decorates them in one step. A neckline and cuffs can quickly be finished by embroidering the rolled hem down, saving time and thread. Stitches which are documentable in AD in England are stem stitch, threaded running stitch, running stitch, split stitch, chain stitch, couching and surface couching (Regia Anglorum Member Handbook). Myette Fentz s examination of the Viborg shirt gives clear pictures of the seam treatments for this 11 th century Danish linen shirt (see the online translation for details); an economy of sewing is clear throughout. This 10 th century silk reliquary pouch, embroidered with a cross, was found at York. It is 3cm high (Hall, p. 90). Raised fishbone stitch on the Mammen cushion cover. This stitch sews and finishes the seam (Hald, p. 283). Sunnifa Gunnarsdottir (Charlotte Mayhew) crmayhew@comcast.net September

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