Poncho s. Introduction. Abstract. from Kalam. a design. Ponchos are. of wool or. preferred. Finally selected. an ancient. developed and.

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ESSENCE - International Journal for Environmental Rehabilitation and Conservation Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/ /5-57 Volume VIII: Special Edition: : 07 [5-57] [ISSN 0975-67] [www.

1 ESSENCE - International Journal for Environmental Rehabilitation and Conservation Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/ /5-57 Volume VIII: Special Edition: : 07 [5-57] [ISSN ] [ Designing and styling of Poncho s with Kalamkari Motifs Poothia, Suvritti ; Juneja, Shalini and Rastogi, Shivi 3 Received: June 05, 06 Accepted: July 7, 07 Online: August 0, 07 Abstract In this study, investigator has tried to give a new look to Poncho inspired from Kalamkari motifs. Purpose of study was to come up with a design solution that appealed to younger s taste as well as their pockets. Main aim of the study was to Design and Style of Poncho s with Kalamkari motifs. The present study was conducted in Banasthali University. To achievee this is a few interventions were made in the design process.the consumer survey was done for checking the awareness of for Indian Kalamkari painting and Poncho s. For this purpose, Kalamkari motifs were collected and selected for the present study. Then, design sheets with most preferred motifs were developed and evaluated by 00. Finally selected designss were evolved into prototypes. The developed prototypes were assessed with respect to different parameters such as aesthetic appeal, cost and uniqueness. For Correspondence: Home Science Department, Clothing and Textile Banasthali University, Rajasthan suvritti30@gmail.com Introduction A Poncho (symbol of Mexican) is an outer garment designed to keep the body warm. Poncho is a piece of clothing that is used as a coat and that is made of a single piece of cloth or plastic with a hole in the middle for a person s head to go through. Alternate Ponchos are now designed as fashion items. They are designed to look fashionable and provide warmth while remaining breathable and comfortable, ratherr than to ward off wind and rain. These are often made out of wool or yarn, knitted or crocheted. Ponchos with festive designs or colors can be worn at special events as well. Consumer increasingly demands variety in clothing & fabric, therefore innovative change in designing & designing techniques are need of the hour. Kalamkari is an ancient Indian art that originated about 3000 years ago. It derives its name from Kalam meaning Pen, and Kari meaning work, literally Pen- work. The Kalamkari art includes both, printing and painting. The colors used in making these paintings are organic. Most of the colors are prepared using parts of plants roots, leaves along with mineral salts of iron, tin, copper, 5

2 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/5-57 alum, etc., which are used as mordants. There are numerous forms and styles of this type of painting throughout the Indian subcontinent.the creation of a Kalamkari product is a time consuming, meticulous process wherein the fabric can undergo up to 0 washing processes before all dyes are applied to complete the design. Needless to say, Kalamkari s outstanding characteristic is the fine details and colors of its intricate hand drawn pen work. Motifs drawn in Kalamkari spans from flowers, peacock, paisley to divine characters of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana. Nowadays, this art is primarily done to create Kalamkari sarees. Traditional art is an art which is originated from the past time &eventually as the fashion is changing at every second today, the tradition art is losing its identity. As Kalamkari being an art done with the help of kalam, in the study it is done with the modified enrichment techniques i.e. Block printing, applique work, embroidery work (running stitch), zari work. Hence, as attempt has been made by researcher through this study to bring something new & also help the people in restoring the beauty of the tradition whether in the art or else with respect to changing fashion. Now a day, we are bound to get confused among the distinctive range of adolescent girl s attire. Various different works is done on adolescent girl s attire which gives them a pleasant look. Consumers are becoming more fashion conscious, more sophisticated and more active for clothing & accessories. They expect something new, something in tune with expectation from world and societies. Methodology This work is a part of a master thesis in Clothing and Textiles. The study was conducted in BanasthaliUniversity, because of the ease of approachability for the researcher. Total 00 were selected randomly in which 95 were students of adolescent age group (8- years) and 5 were faculty members to find consumer s preference, to assess and select developed designs and to find out acceptability of developed designed Poncho s with Kalamkari motifs. These were selected purposively who have knowledge of apparel designing and latest fashion trends. A Self structured questionnaire was prepared to collect information about consumer s attitude toward Poncho s with Kalamkari motifs. Total 30 design sheet were prepared for Poncho s with the selected motifs and arranging them in different pattern such as random, border, horizontal, allover and diagonal arrangement and then the designed sheets were evaluated and after evaluation data was collected. Assessment of sheets were by 5 point rating scale i.e. 5-excellent, -very good, 3-good, - average and - fair. Best preferred 5 prototypes were developed for Poncho s by using selected motifs. Khadi silk blend fabric was selected purposively for the construction of Poncho s. The selected Poncho s were cut and stitched according to the design by the researcher. Researcher traced selected motifs with the help of tracing paper on stitched Poncho s for different techniques such as embroidery, applique work, zari work. As per traced motifs, 5

3 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/5-57 researcher did embroidery by herself. Suheb s creation, Jaipur was allocated for applique work and Tehleen Boutique, Jaipur assigned for Zari work. For block sample, blocks were given to workers in Sanganer, Jaipur toprepare as per selected design. After receiving blocks, then printing was done in the dyeing and printing laboratory of clothing and textile department, Banasthali University. For Original work of Kalamkari on 5 th prototype, the poncho was given to the owner of a Kalamkari unit, Chittoor(Andhra Pradesh). The researcher traced the workers of Kalamkari for her work at Delhi Haat fate, New Delhi. Researcher completed costing of all 5 prototypes according to expenses incurred in capital & services (i.e. development, construction & finishing). All the prototypes were displayed to the and evaluation was done on the basis of 3 parameters i.e. uniqueness, cost and aesthetic appeal. Total 00 were taken for data collection. Five point rating scale was used for evaluation and weighted mean score was calculated for each prototype. Results and discussion Results of preliminary consumer survey It was necessary to conduct consumer survey to determine the preferences and needs of the consumers in respect of various parameters related to Ponchos. The results are given in detail: S. No. Awareness (%) 86 Table : Distribution of based on awareness about the term PONCHO S The above table reveals that 86% of the were aware of the term PONCHO S and % were among those who were not aware. S. No. Factors (%) PRICE GENERAL 30 APPEARANCE 3 FASHION 38 QUALITY 8 Table : Distribution of factors considered while selecting the PONCHO S The above table shows that the % of are considering the price factor while purchasing the Ponchos, 30% consider the general appearance factor, 38% consider the fashion factor and 8% of them consider the quality factor while purchasing the Ponchos. S. No. Fabric (%) Particular Fabric 33 According to Ponchos 67 Table 3: Distribution of the respondentpreference of fabric for PONCHOS The above table depicts that majority of the preferred to purchase fabric according to ponchos and only 33% preferred a particular fabric. S. No. Length of ponchos (%) SHORT 3 MEDIUM 63 3 LONG Table : Distribution of respondent preferencesfor different length of PONCHOS The above tableshows that 63% respondent preferred medium length of the Ponchos, 3% respondent preferredshort length and % liked to wear long length of Ponchos. S. No. Awareness (%) Table 5: Distribution of based on awareness about the term KALAMKARI The above table reveals that the majority of the know about the term 53

4 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/ /5-57 KALAMKARI (65%) and only 35% didnot know about anything about KALAMKARI. S. No. Attractive look 6 39 Table 6: Distribution of based on attractive look of KALAMKARI motif on PONCHOS The above table depicts that the 6% of opined that Kalamkari motif would give attractive look to Poncho and only 39% were among those who responded that these motifs will not give attractive look on Ponchos. S. No. Preference 69 3 Table 7: Distribution of based on preferencee of Ponchos with KALAMKARI motif by different techniques The table shows that 69% of preferred different techniques on Ponchos with KALAMKARI motif but 3% responded that these willl not prefer Ponchos with KALAMKARI motif by different techniques. S. No. Preference 6 39 Table 8: Distribution of based on preferencee of embellishment on PONCHOS with KALAMKARI motif The above table depicts that 6% of preferred Ponchos with embellishme ent but 39% of were among those who don t want embellishment on Ponchos. S. No. Type of embellishment SEQUENCE 30 MIRROR 3 3 FABRIC GLITTER 30 BEADS 7 Table 9: Distribution of based on preference of type of embellishment The above table reveals that majority of the like sequence and fabric glitter (30%) and 7% liked beads. Only 3% preferred mirrorr work. S. No. Preference 8 6 Table 0: Distribution of based on preference of KALAMKARI motif with different technique on Ponchos will designing turn on the field of The above table depicts that 8% of the agreed from the statement that KALAMKA ARI motifs with different techniques on Ponchos will turn on the field of designingg but 6% did not agree. Preference of design sheets Evaluation of design sheets was affected by consumer preferences and experience. On the basis of questionnaire, 30 design sheets were prepared and assessed by consumer on the basis of five points scale. Finally best five designs were selected to develop into prototype as shown in graph. 5

depicts thatt most preferred design sheet was design 3(.

were evaluated by on the basis of aesthetic appeal,

prototype 3 and prototype, when aesthetic appeal was

0) was least preferred respectively. Uniqueness SCORE.6.

5 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/ /5-57 The above graph depicts thatt most preferred design sheet was design 3(.38). Next in order of preference was design sheet (.33) &design sheet 7(.3) respectively. Theree was not much difference in score of design sheet &7. Design sheet 30(.30) got th preference and last in order was design sheet 0(..7). Assessment of Developed Prototypes Developed prototypes were evaluated by on the basis of aesthetic appeal, uniqueness and estimated cost. 5 Aesthetic Appeal SCORE.5 Aesthetic 3.5 P P PROTP3 OTYPES P P5 The above graph shows that prototype (3.6) was rated first in terms of aesthetic appeal, next preferred prototype was prototype (.57), and prototype 3 (.39) and prototype (.36) got third preference. Not much difference was found in weighted mean score of prototype 3 and prototype, when aesthetic appeal was evaluated. Prototype 5( (.0) was least preferred respectively. Uniqueness SCORE.6.. P P P3 P P5 Uniqueness PROTOTYPES The above graph in terms of uniqueness reveals that prototype (.57) was given highest preferencee as it got maximum score and ranked st. Next preferred prototype was prototype (.7) which was ranked nd, prototype 3(.) ranked 3 rd, prototype 5(.38) ranked th and then prototype (.3) ranked 5 th respectively. Cost ESTIMATED COST IN PERCENT 0 P P P3 PROTOTYPES P P5 Cost 55

6 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/ /5-57 The above graph depicts that prototype (.36) was given highest preference as it got maximum score and ranked st. Not more difference in prototype (.3) whichh was ranked nd, prototype 5(.5) was ranked 3 rd, prototype (.) was ranked th and last preference was given to prototype 3(.0) OVERALL ACCEPTABILITY WEIGHTED MEAN SCORE 0 P P P3 P PROTOTYPES P5 OVERALL ACCEPTABILITY The above graph reveals that prototype (3.6) and prototype (3.6) was given highest preference as it got maximum weighted mean score which was ranked st. Next preferred prototype was prototype (3.3) which was ranked nd, prototype 3(3.8) was ranked 3 rd and prototype 5(3.) was ranked th respectively. Summary A survey was conducted to find out consumers preference towards the Khadi silk Poncho s and Kalamkari motifs with surface enrichment techniques like block printing, zari work, embroidery work, applique work. On the basis of consumer preferences, 30 design sheets were developed with most preferred Kalamkari motifs. To evaluate, the design sheets weree assessed on 5 point rating scale. Out of these, 5 design sheets were selected by 00 with respect to design of Poncho s and placement of motifs. Then, Ponchos were developed with different surface ornamentation techniques such as zari work, applique work, block printing and embroidery work. Finally, acceptability of Poncho s was judged by 00 on the basis of aesthetic appeal, cost and uniqueness. Conclusion Through this work, Kalamkari was revived by evolving new designs of poncho s which could satisfy the designed products weree an amalgamation of trends with tradition but tried to keep the essence of the art intact. So, it was concludedd from the study that the developedd Poncho s were liked by majority of the. They were ready to addd these designs in their wardrobe. Also the idea of bringing about innovation in Kalamkari with different techniques can bring uniqueness in designing Poncho s were accepted by consumers and successfully incorporated in the field of designing to create new looks. References Anderson (977): Crewel an ancient art of consumer needs and market trends. The of Ponchos. It was found that design of Embroidery. Indian journal of International Academic research for multidisciplinary, Published by Hodder and Stoughton. Betala (005): Design Comprehension and Visualization. Ane Books Pvt. Ltd. 56

7 Poothia et al./viii: Special Edition: : 07/5-57 Devi(987). Roopalekha.vol. xliv, published by All India fine art and craft society, New Delhi. Jain (05): Designing wall panels with Chintz and patola pattern using applique work. Unpublished master s dissertation, Banasthali University, Rajasthan. Jangwan (00): Rejuvenate the Kalamkari with heat transfer printing on kurties. Kavita (0): Embellishment of Denim Kurties with Block printing.unpublished master s dissertation, Banasthali University, Rajasthan. Kumari (0): Fusion of western dresses with traditional art of Kantha. Mittal (05): A new range of western dresses with traditional motifs and contemporary embroidery. Purohit (03): The Study of Traditional Hand Painted Kalamkari to Design a set of New Age Prints. National Institute of Fashion Technology. Mumbai. Saini (008): Designing of western dresses using Kalamkari Motifs with embroidery and other techniques. Sharma (0): Designing Kurties using Kalamkari Technique. Unpublished master s dissertation. Banasthali University, Rajasthan. Sharma (05): Tribal folk s art of India. Indian journal of International Academic research for multidisciplinary, 3 (5). 57

Designing and construction of Kurtis for adults by batik printing using crayons

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