CHAPTER 2: CREATING PATTERNS WITH PATTERN DESIGN SYSTEM by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor

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CHAPTER 2: CREATING PATTERNS WITH PATTERN DESIGN SYSTEM by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor 1. Overview of working patterns with important symbols To get into the pattern design program (see.

In the General, make sure AccuMark Piece Compatibility mode is V8. 3) Go to File menu-> Open. Open the model, Basic blocks in your storage area. 2. Creating Pieces and Creating Models 2.

1 CHAPTER 2: CREATING PATTERNS WITH PATTERN DESIGN SYSTEM by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor 1. Overview of working patterns with important symbols To get into the pattern design program (see. Chapter 1) 1) Open the Pattern Design. 2) Go to View menu-> Preferences. In the Path, make sure you are in the right storage area. (C:/ your name). In the General, make sure AccuMark Piece Compatibility mode is V8. 3) Go to File menu-> Open. Open the model, Basic blocks in your storage area. 2. Creating Pieces and Creating Models 2.1 Copy piece 1) Bring a sleeve piece from the icon bar. Go to Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Copy 2) Select a piece (e.g. BODICEF). In the User Input box, enter a piece name (e.g. BODICEF_1). 3) Press F2 to separate pieces. Select the original piece. Click RM-> LookUP menu-> Delete piece from workspace to delete the original piece. 1 of 16

2.2 Extract piece It s useful to create pieces from

) 1) Go to Line menu-> Create Line-> Digitized (use

To make a curve line, click RM-> Lookup menu->

2) Go to Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Extract piece.

If needed, select additional regions and internal

2 2.2 Extract piece It s useful to create pieces from an existing piece. (e.g. Princess line dress, York shirts, etc.) 1) Go to Line menu-> Create Line-> Digitized (use Cursor mode). To make a curve line, click RM-> Lookup menu-> Line->Curve. 2) Go to Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Extract piece. 3) Select the region to extract. If needed, select additional regions and internal lines. Then, RM- > OK. Enter a unique piece name (e.g. BODICEF_1 Extract). 4) Click RM->Edit Piece info. If necessary, change Category of the pieces. 2 of 16

2.3 To Create Model and Save 1) Since you do not have a Model for these pieces, let s create Model and Save pieces and the Model. Go to File menu-> Create/Edit model-> Add pieces.

3 2.3 To Create Model and Save 1) Since you do not have a Model for these pieces, let s create Model and Save pieces and the Model. Go to File menu-> Create/Edit model-> Add pieces. In the Popup menu, enter model/style name. Select pieces on the screen. Then, you will see a successful message. 2) Creating model doesn t mean that you saved pieces. Go to File menu-> Save-> Pieces. And Save->Model. 2.4 Trace pieces It s useful to create a new piece with a cut line boundary by tracing one or more pieces. (e.g. Raglan sleeve, one piece dress, and overall pants) 1) Bring the original pieces (BODICEF and BODICEB) from the Icon bar. Press F2. 2) Copy the (BODICEF and BODICEB) and enter piece names (e.g. BODICEF_2 and BODICEB_2). 3) Delete the original pieces from workspace, remaining two copied pieces. 4) Go to the Line menu-> Create Line-> Digitized (use Cursor mode) to create new boundary lines. If necessary, to flip the piece, go to the Piece menu-> Modify piece-> Flip piece. 6) Go to the Piece menu-> Modify piece->set and Rotate/Lock. Select match point on the Set piece (BODICEF_2) and Select the Target piece (BODICEB_2). 3 of 16

7) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace Normal.

Enter the piece name (e.g. Bodice_2 Side_Trace). Then, OK.

Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES).

1 Trace Mirrored piece (to create Facing neckline) 1) Use the copied

4 7) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace Normal. Select the boundary lines to trace going clockwise. Enter the piece name (e.g. Bodice_2 Side_Trace). Then, OK. 8) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 3. Piece Facing 3.1 Trace Mirrored piece (to create Facing neckline) 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2) for this practice. Delete unnecessary digitized lines. 2) Go to the Line menu-> Create Line-> Offset Even (use Cursor mode) to create new boundary lines. 4 of 16

3) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace

Enter the piece name (e.g. Bodice_2 _Score).

4) If necessary to change the piece info,

5 3) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace Mirror. 4) Select the mirror line. Select the boundary lines to trace going clockwise. (Do not trace mirror line again). Enter the piece name (e.g. Bodice_2 _Score). Then, OK. 4) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 3.2 Trace Scored Pieces 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2) for this practice. Delete unnecessary digitized lines. 5 of 16

2) Go to the Line menu-> Create Line-> Offset

Select the boundary lines (before the score

Select the boundary lines (after the score

6 2) Go to the Line menu-> Create Line-> Offset Even. Number Offsets=2. 3) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace Score. Select score line. Select the boundary lines (before the score line) to trace going Clockwise. Select the boundary lines (after the score line) going Counter Clockwise. OK. 4) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 6 of 16

3.3 Piece Facing (Using Create Piece: Facing) 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2) for this practice.

7 3.3 Piece Facing (Using Create Piece: Facing) 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2) for this practice. Delete unnecessary digitized lines. 2) Go to the Piece menu -> Create Piece-> Facing. 3) Choose Line type: Digitized line. (* If the Line type: Existing Line, then Select the internal line that defines the internal edge of the facing.) 4) Select points (Use Cursor mode) that defines the internal edge of the facing (at least 2 point to create digitized internal line). Use the cursor to highlight the side you want to keep (as the facing piece) and click LM to select. Enter the piece name (BODICEF_2 facing). Click OK. 7 of 16

4. Split Piece Use this function to split a piece along an existing internal line to

York, Different color blocking, Princess line dress etc.

8 4. Split Piece Use this function to split a piece along an existing internal line to create two or more new pieces. (e.g. York, Different color blocking, Princess line dress etc.) 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2) for this practice. Delete unnecessary digitized lines. 2) Go to Piece menu-> Split piece->split On Digitized Line. You can create digitized line to use as a splitting line. 3) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 8 of 16

5. Combine Merge 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2 and BODICEB_2) for this practice.

3) Go to Piece menu-> Combine/Merge piece. Enter the piece name (e.g. MERGE_PIECE).

Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 6. Mirror Piece Mirror Piece: To mirror piece.

9 5. Combine Merge 1) Use the copied pieces (BODICEF_2 and BODICEB_2) for this practice. Delete unnecessary digitized lines. 2) Go to Piece menu-> Modify piece->flip piece (if necessary). 3) Go to Piece menu-> Combine/Merge piece. Enter the piece name (e.g. MERGE_PIECE). 4) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model. 6. Mirror Piece Mirror Piece: To mirror piece. Unfold Mirror: To open a folded mirrored piece. Fold Mirror: To fold a mirrored piece. Open Mirror: To convert a mirrored piece to a half piece. 9 of 16

7. Modify Line 7.1 Adjust sleeve length (using Line-Move Offset) 1) Bring the original pieces (SlEEVE) from the Icon bar. 2) Copy the piece and enter piece names (e.g.sleeve_2).

(Use Value mode). Value Input= 5 inch longer. Move Offset NOTE: This method does NOT keep the sleeve width. 7.

10 7. Modify Line 7.1 Adjust sleeve length (using Line-Move Offset) 1) Bring the original pieces (SlEEVE) from the Icon bar. 2) Copy the piece and enter piece names (e.g.sleeve_2). 3) Delete the original pieces from workspace, remaining two copied pieces. 4) Go to the Line menu-> Modify line-> Move offset: To move a line a new location, keep it parallel to the original. (Use Value mode). Value Input= 5 inch longer. Move Offset NOTE: This method does NOT keep the sleeve width. 7.2 Adjust sleeve length (using Line- Move Line Anchor) 1) This technique is to move a line, maintaining the original width length (e.g. adjust sleeve length with same width of the sleeve head). 2) Go to the Line menu-> Modify line-> Move Line Anchor. Value Input= 5 inch. Blend points Move Line Anchor 3) Go to the Line menu-> Modify line-> Move line: This function is equal to Modify Points-> Move a Point on the Line. Test with sleeve armhole line to see the differences. 10 of 16

dart in the back. Select dart to rotate.

11 8. Creating a Dolman Sleeve (Worksheet 7) 8.1 To begin 1) Go to File menu->open files C: Your name/ BASIC BLOCKS. 2) Copy Pieces. Give name S1, BF1, BB1 (NOTE: Press F2 to separate all pieces.) 8.2 Relocate darts 1) Go to Piece menu-> Darts-> Rotate to remove or relocate the dart in the back. Select dart to rotate. Select rotation point. Select hold line and opening point. Select new dart apex. 11 of 16

2) Go to Piece menu->modify piece->flip to flip the back piece.

3) Rotate the back piece (set piece) with offset 0.

4) Go to the Piece menu-> Modify-> Set Set the sleeve at the

12 2) Go to Piece menu->modify piece->flip to flip the back piece To set the pieces 1) Go to the Piece menu-> Modify-> Set and Rotate/Lock. 2) Set the front piece to the back piece at the neck shoulder. 3) Rotate the back piece (set piece) with offset 0.1 the shoulder point to remove dart gap. 4) Go to the Piece menu-> Modify-> Set and Rotate/Lock. Set the sleeve at the front sleeve cap/underarm intersection and rotate the sleeve until it meets the back bodice at the armhole/side seam intersection. 12 of 16

8.4 Trace off the front and back dolman.

Trace (Normal). Enter piece name (Dolman).

13 8.4 Trace off the front and back dolman. 1) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace (Normal). Enter piece name (Dolman). 2) Go to the Piece menu->split Piece-> Split Piece On Digitized Line. Enter name of pieces (e.g. Dolman_F, Dolman_B). Delete the original pieces. 8.5 Realign pieces 1) Piece menu-> Modify Piece-> Rotate Piece. 13 of 16

14 2) Go to the Piece menu -> Modify-> Realign Grain line. And, grain line can be relocated by selecting Line-> Modify -> Move Line. 8.6 Split the pieces from the shoulder/neck intersection to the underarm point 1) Go to the Piece menu-> Split Piece-> Split Piece On Digitized Line. 14 of 16

2) Set the sleeves to the bodice piece and rotate the

Value mode with select reference location.) 8.

15 2) Set the sleeves to the bodice piece and rotate the sleeve to be 2 away from the underarm points. Go to the Piece menu-> Modify-> Rotate. (Tips: Make sure rotation direction CW/CCW and use Value mode with select reference location.) 8.7 Trace pieces and Line merge 1) Go to the Piece menu-> Create Piece-> Trace (Normal). 2) To Curve out, go to Line menu-> Modify-> Combine/Merge. Merge the underarm. Delete unnecessary points. 15 of 16

close the sleeve dart. 5) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info.

16 3) Go to Piece menu-> Combine/Merge. Merge the shoulder seam. Enter name of the piece (Dolman_Worksheet 7) 4) Go to Piece menu-> Dart-> Fold/Close to close the sleeve dart. 5) If necessary to change the piece info, RM->Edit piece info. Add pieces to the model (e.g. PRACTICES). Go to File-> Save to pieces and the model (Practices). 6) Print out. 16 of 16

A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

A few notes about PDF patterns from.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing